After the wet. Laos Motorcycle Ride November 2011.

Moto-Rex

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Laos Motorcycle Ride November 2011

The wet season was over so it was time to head off to Laos and go riding. Two mates from OZ, and myself planned out a 10 day loop, were we would ride on the dirt as much as possible.

We had ridden together in Laos two years ago, but on that trip my mates hired the bikes in Chiang Mai were we started and ended the trip.

This time they decided it would be better to fly straight in to Laos, and hire the bikes in Vientiane, were we would start and finish the trip.

I rode down to Vientiane on my KLX from Chiang Mai, were they had organized, two XR250s from Jim at remoteasia. We picked the bikes up in the morning and then made sure there bags fitted ok to the racks etc, so as to be ready to depart the next day.

This is a quick report, as I’m currently on the road.

Day one. Vientiane to Feuang, taking the road west of the Phou Phanang NPA.

Good to be on the road again.
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The first of many river crossings for the trip.
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One of only two ferry men Ive ever meet in laos that wasn’t a maggot.
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I think this area of Laos is just stunning
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The Feuang market was in full swing when we arrived.
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A couple of tasty critters.
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Day two. Feuang to Pak Lay. Trying to cut through the mountains to the Xanamkhan road.

The way west.
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It was good riding through here, steep, slippery and single trail.
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There was a lot of these gates, and small tricky river crossings.
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On the way down to Pak Lay we got our one and only flat for the trip.
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While we were fixing the flat, these fearless young guys came along with there catch of the day.
They had killed this snake down the road and were walking through town trying to sell it. An old bloke came out of his house, and a price was negotiated. 7000 kip or about 80 cents.

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This is the boy that fired the lethal shot with his shang eye.
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Back on the road.
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Lunch stop at a small restaurant were mama noodles was the riders choice.
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The river crossing near Pak Lay were we decided to wait for the big ferry, as the operators of the smaller one were in no state to walk, let alone drive a boat.
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Day Three. Pak Lay to Xayaboury via the Nam Phoun NPA.

First stop fried egg and sticky rice for breakfast.
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This bloke said what the map said. “You should have went right instead of left”
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We top up on fuel at Thongmyxay, as we had no idea what the Nam Phoun NPA was like.
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The start of the track.
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This was one of a few mud slides we had to get past. Only one was a little tricky.
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Great ride that’s for sure.
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Does Rex really know were we are?
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And this is the end of the famous Nam Phoun NPA track. Would like to say it was a big challage etc. But fact is, it was pretty easy, but good fun.

This crossing was too deep for these cows, so far to deep for the bikes, but about 100 meters up stream there is a small bridge.
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At the end of the bridge, there’s a small village, were there’s a rope stretched across the track to stop you from going further.
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It works out there’s a 5000kip fee for using the bridge, and these guys are going to make you pay. Good stuff.
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There small village.
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Another bridge on the way to Nam Pouy. Also 5000kip.
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Unpacking the bikes at Xayaboury. Then a shower and off to river restaurant for sunset beers and a feed.
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Day Four. Xayaboury to Luang Prabang via hongsa.

The road from Xayaboury to hongsa is tar, but a good ride.
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Once you turn off to Luang Prabang near Hongsa its one of the best rides in Laos I reckon.
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The last river crossing before Luang Prabang were there’s always a crowd on hand.
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This poor lady had crashed and was stuck under the bike when we arrived. Being the gentlemen we stopped to give her a hand. She was soon on her way.
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Arrived in Luang Prabang and booked into oudom souk guest house.
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Day Five. Luang Prabang to Vieng Thong.

Plenty of friendly villagers, and great scenery.
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Pendle doing an impersonation of a wild feline.
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Day Six. Vieng Thong to Phonsavan.

It was so cold in Vieng Thong that even the bike stayed close to keep warm.

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The market in Vieng Thong.
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Craters restaurant in Phonsavan.
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Day Seven. Plain of jars etc and another night in Phonsavan.

Plain of jars. I’m sure there’s a simple explanation.
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Day Eight and Nine. Phonsawan to Pakxan, and on the Vientiane.

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Back in Vientiane and the finish of a good trip.

Always a bit of worry when getting hire bikes, but my friends had no trouble at all with the two XR250s, and I had no problems with the KLX.

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As I said at the start, Im on the road so the report lacks a lot of detail. Hopefully the photos will give an idea of what riding in Laos is like.

Rex
 

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Last edited:
Jul 25, 2010
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Really excellent Rex. I love the true spirit of adventure you guys have, the way you come across a track and give it a go.
Very 'Dr Livingstone I presume'.
 

ekobak

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Mar 22, 2012
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Is there anyone in Pakxe that rents 250 cc dirt bikes? want to tour the bolavens. thanks. This is a quick trip that I start on 25 March.
 

Moto-Rex

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Hotel Rose "1 inn" There is also a Hotel called The Rose two doors up in the same Soi which is twice the price of 1 inn.

At the time I think 1 inn was about $30.00, which was real good value for that location. They also gave you a breakfast voucher which got you a ripper breakfast in The Rose Hotel.
You also park your bike at the Rose Hotel.

N17 58.018 E102 36.593

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Moto-Rex
 

DavidFL

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Chiang Khong
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Moto-Rex;299403 wrote: Hotel Rose "1 inn" There is also a Hotel called The Rose two doors up in the same Soi which is twice the price of 1 inn.

At the time I think 1 inn was about $30.00, which was real good value for that location. They also gave you a breakfast voucher which got you a ripper breakfast in The Rose Hotel.
You also park your bike at the Rose Hotel.

N17 58.018 E102 36.593

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Moto-Rex

Thanks Rex. That looks like it could be good value for money. I may have to check it out in Vientiane in a few days.