Doi Mae Salong

Discussion in 'Northern Thailand - Road Trip Reports' started by DavidFL, Nov 16, 2008.

  1. DavidFL

    DavidFL Administrator Staff Member

    Just in from a crisp overnighter in Doi Mae Salong with madam in her car on a night off from singing.
    Happy go lucky loves the cool air & was absolutely enthralled by the clean mountain air, stupendous views & colours.

    Check it out - the roads are clean & "deserted" - before the mad December rush!

    Kiu Sataa - Doi Mae Salong
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    Doi Mae Salong, deserted road & crystal clear views & sky.
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    Madam & her happy little car
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    Superb scenery & sky
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    The Sweet Mae Salong Bakery is a delightful place for a cuppa 'n cake, hanging off the ridgeline.
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    This joint has a big reputation amongst the Singapore bikers & they all have to stop here! Check it out for yourself.

    Happy go lucky was over powered by the views & could not stop the photo requests....
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    On the way through I was able to ascertain that Hmong New Year is on Dec 27-28 in Huay Luk, north of Chiang Dao. More than likely most Hmong hill tribe villages will be celebrating New Year then, so keep an eye out for it. If not, it should be a month later - look out for it on Jan 27-28 roughly.
    "Akha New Year" with the Swing Ceremony has been & gone.

    Oh yeah, & we survived the full moon!
     
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  3. PICO-PICO

    PICO-PICO Ol'Timer

    Lucky you, when we went up it was very hazy. Had again hot Chocolate in the Sweet Mae Salong Cafe.

    Pico
     
  4. feejer

    feejer Ol'Timer

    Hmmm. Must have ridden right past the bakery. Not on the GT loop map. Is is right off the main road through? GPS coords?
     
  5. DavidFL

    DavidFL Administrator Staff Member

    You're right it is not on the map.
    Try these co-ordinates
    N20 09.900 E99 37.901

    Web site
    http://sweetmaesalong.multiply.com/
     
  6. penetrator

    penetrator Ol'Timer

    Was up there myself recently on a quick detour between Chiang Rai and Chiang Saen. Fantastic roads and great views, wish I'd of had more time really as I was a bit rushed.

    Stopped off at a place beside the road, on the right just before Mae Salong if your going up the mountain from Pasang, the guy who owned it is the son of a Kuomintang soldier and he taught me how to take tea Chinese style. He was a really nice guy and told me all about the history of Mae Salong.

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    Mae Salong town itself was a bit of a disappointment for me in comparison to the great drive and scenery you encounter getting to it.

    Anyway a few pics from the drive up and down there:

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  7. DavidFL

    DavidFL Administrator Staff Member

    Just a few happy snaps from Doi Mae Salong with madam a few weeks ago, before Laos.

    Shine Sane Guesthouse
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    Little Home Guesthouse
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    The morning market for breakfast
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    Clean air & light
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    The Chinese Soldiers Martyr Museum has an excellent history of the KMT in Thailand, with photos. Well worth checking out; especially if you are unaware of their use as troops by the Thai govt. to attack & defeat the communists in several battles in Thailand.

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    Last but not least, happy go-lucky with one of Doi Mae Salong's mega-stars.
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    Photo taken outside the Sweet Mae Salong Bakery.
     
  8. ron

    ron Active Member

    sweet , ... , i mean the cake at sweet maesalong
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    stop at shin Shane Gh , very charmant and funny , good english speaking owner , ofcourse very good food also
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  9. DavidFL

    DavidFL Administrator Staff Member

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    An absolutely superb cappuccino at the Sweet Mae Salong Bakery enjoyed by Jack et al.....Rhodie, Silverhawk & Davidfl.
    Thursday 3oth July 2009
    en route to Thoed Thai & Khun Sa's old camp / museum.
     
  10. Rhodie

    Rhodie Ol'Timer

    Sweet Maesalong is easily the best cofee shop in Northern Thailand,
    with Charoen remaining unassailed in its supremacy on cheescakes.

    A Creme Brulee to RIDE for...

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    I'm alright Jack!
     
  11. DavidFL

    DavidFL Administrator Staff Member

    Still catching up: a few more snaps from Doi Mae Salong & Ho's Shin Sane guesthouse..
    Photos from 28th August

    Happy Ho (Ho Ho)
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    The bungalows
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    Ho's got a new diner across the driveway, & in one of the best spots in Doi Mae Salong for watching the world pass by.
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    A Shin Sane noodle special "fit for a captain"
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    Happy go lucky & Doi Mae Salong views
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    Doi Mae Salong is famous for its tea
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    Here's how to have it served
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    Mae Salong is also famous for its fruit
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    Ho does not have a GT Rider mortgage on the Doi Mae Salong accommodation & there's a beauty right next door: Little Home
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    The bungalows are beautiful, fresh & clean
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    Next full moon is 2nd or 3rd October which is time for the Chinese Moon Cake Festival & Doi Mae Salong will be a great place to go.

    From Wikipedia

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mid-Autumn_Festival

    The Mid-Autumn Festival, also known as the Moon Festival, or in Chinese, Zhongqiu Jie (traditional Chinese: 中秋節), is a popular harvest festival celebrated by Chinese people and Vietnamese people (even though they celebrate it differently), dating back over 3,000 years to moon worship in China's Shang Dynasty.[1][2] It was first called Zhongqiu Jie (literally "Mid-Autumn Festival") in the Zhou Dynasty.[3] In Malaysia and Singapore, it is also sometimes referred to as the Lantern Festival or Mooncake Festival.

    The Mid-Autumn Festival is held on the 15th day of the eighth month in the Chinese calendar, which is usually around mid or late September in the Gregorian calendar. It is a date that parallels the autumn and spring Equinoxes of the solar calendar, when the moon is supposedly at its fullest and roundest. The traditional food of this festival is the mooncake, of which there are many different varieties.

    The Mid-Autumn Festival is one of the two most important holidays in the Chinese calendar, the other being the Chinese New Year, and is a legal holiday in several countries. Farmers celebrate the end of the summer harvesting season on this date. Traditionally, on this day, Chinese family members and friends will gather to admire the bright mid-autumn harvest moon, and eat moon cakes and pomeloes together. Accompanying the celebration, there are additional cultural or regional customs, such as:

    Eating moon cakes outside under the moon
    Putting pomelo rinds on one's head
    Carrying brightly lit lanterns, lighting lanterns on towers, floating sky lanterns
    Burning incense in reverence to deities including Chang'e (simplified Chinese: 嫦娥; traditional Chinese: 嫦娥; pinyin: cháng'é)
    Planting Mid-Autumn trees
    Collecting dandelion leaves and distributing them evenly among family members
    Fire Dragon Dances
    Shops selling mooncakes, before the festival, often display pictures of Chang'e floating to the moon.


    Mr. Ho at Shin Sane guesthouse will be putting on a big show & invites any GT Riders to Doi Mae Salong for the event.
     
  12. DavidFL

    DavidFL Administrator Staff Member

    The Chinese Moon cake festival & show at Shin Sane in Doi Mae Salong

    The BBQ gang cooking up a storm
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    The diners
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    There were lots of them - Thai & farang.
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    These young Akha guys ate enough for a week.
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    It was absolutely incredible watching them scoff so much food down!

    But it was all free compliments of Mr Ho at Shin Sane Guesthouse.

    And the moon cakes?
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    Spirit Offerings
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    Not quite as exciting as anticipated, but the dining out was free, the weather was glorious, plus it was good company with happy go-lucky on a night off.

    Now the find of the trip was Miss Joyce at the Ban Bon Doi Cafe
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    Joyce's place is just next to the 7-11 in town & opposite the Mae Salong Central Hill Hotel, so it is not difficult to find
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    Joyce has been living in Doi Mae Salong 4 months & used to run a small cafe & cookery school in Moon Muang Soi 6, Chiang Mai. She is now very happily ensconced in Doi Mae Salong with a cute little restaurant the Ban Bon Doi.
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    Joyce speaks fluent English, and has travelled in Indonesia, Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia + Thailand. She's a smart lady with some worldly experience under belt & is absolutely wonderful to chat to.
    Monday nights she teaches English for free in an Akha village just up the road. Join in for the fun. Joyce can also organize home stays in the Akha village if you’re looking for that real cross cultural experience. Check out Joyce & her Ban Bon Doi restaurant out the next time you're in Doi Mae Salong! And you could try one of her cooking classes as well - an interesting experience in Doi Mae Salong.
     
  13. DavidFL

    DavidFL Administrator Staff Member

    Just a note for Sweet Mae Salong Bakery:
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    Ton & Mee are back after a month in Bangkok where Mee did a new bakery course, so expect even better cakes & pies at Sweet Mae Salong.

    Such as
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    And a perfect coffee to match
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    Plus the view
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    any time of day
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    Don't go past Sweet Mae Salong Bakery without partaking. It's worth it everytime!
     
  14. David Learmonth

    David Learmonth Ol'Timer

    Thankyou for the info.
    I was beginning to suspect the worst!
    Glad they are still open & will probably be there next Wednesday 14th Oct..
     
  15. David Learmonth

    David Learmonth Ol'Timer

    Called in at BanBonDoi cafe today as planned!
    Well worth a visit. The food was excellent & reasonably priced. Miss Joyce is a very welcoming host & does indeed speak excellent English. Will be calling there again for sure!
     
  16. pee

    pee Ol'Timer

    Adding a few bit and pieces of info to the Doi Mae Salong file...
    The place gets quite busy in December and one understands why:
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    We were there during the week; and before the 5th December week-end. By 4 p.m. "Little Home" and "Shin Shane" guest-houses were already full.
    Friendly Khun Somboon (from Little Home) offered to call a place a bit outside town. Good choice if you like it quiet and peaceful.
    "Maesalong Mountain Home". View from dinner area:
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    It could be a bit confusing getting there as the place bears two different names: "Maesalong Mountain Home" and "Mae Salong Farm Stay"... Anyway, along the way signs are only Thai script but easy to spot: orange in color.
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    However no doubt about the main activity in the area
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    Mae Salong by night... Only Thai Military Bank neon sign challenges full moon
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    Special thanks to David and his yummy tip about Sweet Mae Salong Bakery
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    The Chinese Martyrs' Memorial Museum deserves more than a digestive walk. The place is full of information and pictures
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    Although times have changed it 's very well taken care of
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    Before leaving the area those who like history shouldn't miss Khun Sa Museum in Thoed Thai, about 20 km from Mae Salong (roads 1234 and 3051).
    The display isn't as impressive as the Chinese Soldiers one but it got an intimist atmosphere, located within Khun Sa Old Camp (sign posted from Thoed Thai center). A family leaving there opened the museum when we turned up.
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    A lot of pictures and information have been gathered there:
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    And The Man saddle
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    The Man press book
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    About Shan States history and ethnic groups too
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  17. DavidFL

    DavidFL Administrator Staff Member

    A recent news story on Doi Mae Salong by Andrew Spooner

    SWORDS INTO TEACUPS

    October 1949 and deep in the hills of Chinese Yunnan, a battle had been raging for days. The 93rd Division of the Kuomintang (KMT) Army, cut off from defeated Chinese Nationalist Chiang Kai-shek’s main force, is fighting a fierce rearguard action against Chairman Mao’s all conquering Red Army. Between the 93rd and safety stands the Yuan Jiang River.

    ‘We lost thousands of soldiers and civilians trying to get across that river,’ says 55-year-old ex-KMT colonel Somboon Aimvitayakun, ‘but we made it across and escaped into Burma.’ Although Somboon wasn’t even born at that time, his father, Jang Pong Gow, who went on to become a KMT general, was there, a close adviser to commanding officer General Tuan Shi-wen. ‘This battle was our proudest moment,’ says Somboon.

    To read the full story go to
    http://www.cnntraveller.com/2009/07/14/ ... o-teacups/

    News story by Andrew Spooner
    http://www.andrewspooner.net/
     
  18. DavidFL

    DavidFL Administrator Staff Member

    Another plug for Sweet Mae Salong Bakery

    Scotty007 before brekky
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    Breakfast for the David Unk
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    Breakfast for Scotty007
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    and indeed the Devil's cake is an absolute winner. Unfortunately the GT Rider happy snap does not do it any justice whatsoever, but I have to admit partaking of a double portion a week ago too!!

    Happy go-lucky was impressed with their pet dog
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    Across the road from Sweet Mae Salong there's a beautiful new guesthouse open with some superb rooms.
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    They also have lots of parking for big bikes, so check it out on your way into Doi Mae Salong.
     
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2016
  19. DavidFL

    DavidFL Administrator Staff Member

    Monday 21st JUne 2010

    Route 1234 Kiu Sataa - Doi Mae Salong
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  20. DavidFL

    DavidFL Administrator Staff Member

    Doi Mae Salong - The Landslide October 2010.

    After 3 days of heavy rain, there was a small but significant landslip at Doi Mae Salong & The Central Hill Hotel, along with a few adjoining buildings, is no more.

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    The location straight opposite the 7-11 in DMS
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    What's left of the Mae Salong Central Hill Hotel
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    not much.

    The slip occurred over several days & was not a one-off big bang drop.

    The Mae Salong Central Hill Hotel before
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    Contrary to wild rumours, the road has not been closed & it is business as usual in DMS.
    Go & check it out.

    NOW something else Well worth checking out....

    ROOM WITH A VIEW
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    Where:
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    Baan Hom Muen Lee

    Opposite Sweet Mae Salong Bakery
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  21. TonyBKK

    TonyBKK Ol'Timer

    Wow! Pretty crazy to see the entire building slide like that!

    Glad this thread got a bump as I've not yet been to Doi Mae Salong and it's definitely on my short list. Understand it's crazy-busy over the holidays? Will try to hit it either before or after the rush then.

    Happy Trails!

    Tony
     
  22. Dougal

    Dougal Ol'Timer

    Went to DMS December last year with Marco and Dave & Mai. Tried staying in Shin Sane GH but it and the ones near it were full so we stayed at that very hotel, in the back rooms. Makes you think huh?

    I thought it was a really lovely peaceful little town and getting there and away is beautiful on those roads. Last year came from Fang way and went on to Doi Tung and the Burma border road to Mae Sai. Stunning.
    Just another tit bit but the 7/11 is not 24 hours.
    .
     
  23. ronwebb

    ronwebb Ol'Timer

    Also the Laos Loi Krathong is October 22-24 for those searching good photo opportunities.
     
  24. Marco

    Marco Ol'Timer

    Wow That is scary,,,and knowing that hotel run good day to day operation so casualty figurees must be high,,,

    looks it has fallen down abt 1met or so and very strong 1st floor,,but rest of the buiding not so,,David you have pictures from other side? down hill,,,we stay the time right those rooms with downhill view,,,,,
     
  25. DavidFL

    DavidFL Administrator Staff Member

    Marco
    No deaths as far as I know; as I said the slip was "gradual" so they knew it was coming.
    The destruction of the buildings is because they've been told to abandon them & knock 'em down, so I guess the owners have attempted to salvage what they can.
    But with the rate of development in Doi Mae Salong you’d expect more such incidents in the coming years.
    Lack of storm water drainage management.

    Check out the photo below.
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    Look at the incredibly steep driveway going up the hill. No drains will be built & the road will became a flood way to funnel the storm water & cause more flooding / landslides.
     
  26. Marco

    Marco Ol'Timer

    Hi David

    that is good to know that no casualties,,,

    yes that is veery steep hill to climp,,as i look from my window that time and there was just 45dec downhill....

    wondering if they gonna do something abt that lack of drainages as it's busy tourist place in some time of the year,,,or is it?
     

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