Happy New Year Ride to Nan!

Discussion in 'Northern Thailand - Road Trip Reports' started by TonyBKK, Dec 29, 2009.

  1. TonyBKK

    TonyBKK Ol'Timer

    Sawasdee Pii Mai Khrap! Year end greetings from Nan!
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    Great ride up from Bangkok with Thom on Kawasaki ER6n and Rich on Ducati Monster.
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    Hooked up with Chris on his Honda Phantom in Den Chai and Franz here in Nan on his FJR1300.
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    Just arrived, need to run and meet the guys to figure out where we're going tomorrow.
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    Happy Trails,

    Tony
     
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  3. Marco

    Marco Ol'Timer

    Have fun Tony & Guys

    looking forward to read your trip results...
     
  4. TonyBKK

    TonyBKK Ol'Timer

    Great ride yesterday from Nan to Doi Phu Kha and then up along the Thai-Lao border. Definitely the road less traveled up there!
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    Getting ready to leave Nan-
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    Entering Doi Phu Kha National Park-
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    Awesome roads, very little traffic, and stunning views!
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    More to come!

    Happy Trails,

    Tony
     
  5. DavidFL

    DavidFL Administrator Staff Member

    Tony & Co,
    Yep that's one hell of a fantastic ride isn't it?
    I'm real interested to hear how the road conditions are on the top north-east corner – the Bo Klua - Chalerm Prakiet section - as the last time I was out there

    http://www.gt-rider.com/thailand-motorc ... t4921.html

    it was a bit chopped up & bumpy; but basically from the spring & headwaters on the Nan river it is "generally" downhill & superb asphalt, even if a bit tight ˜n narrow at times.

    How about this Golden Oldie for ya too, from:
    http://www.gt-rider.com/thailand-motorc ... html#21733
     
  6. TonyBKK

    TonyBKK Ol'Timer

    Cheers David,

    Have to give credit to Franz- original plan had been to turn right (south) at Bo Klua and ride the 1081 "racetrack" back to Nan like we did a few weeks ago. But when we reached the t-junction at Bo Klua Franz wondered about where the road would take us if we went left (north). Hanging a left at Bo Klua was Franz's idea and it turns out it was a good one!

    Backing up a bit- here are some photos from the Lam Doo Daw viewpoint in Doi Phu Kha National Park-
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    I was so very pleasantly surprised to discover that someone planted some Japanese cherry trees up there, and we were lucky enough to be there when they were in bloom. Beautiful Hanami :D
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    Nice clear day with better visibility and views than when we were there a few weeks ago.
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    Bo Klua to Chalerm Prakiat next!
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  7. TonyBKK

    TonyBKK Ol'Timer

    Happy New Year Everyone!!!

    The ride is over, and what a ride it was! About ~2500km in 5 days- Awesome!

    So, picking up where we last left off- Bo Klua to Chalerm Prakiat in the no-man's land along the Thai-Lao border:
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    Wow, I think I'm going to call this the "Undiscovered Country". It's apparent that other than the locals this is a road seldom traveled. Stunning scenery and a road that is in need of some TLC...

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    Still, while parts were in terrible shape, there were also some stretches that were in fine condition. Just take it easy and mind the gravel and potholes. :D

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    Amazing views!

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    The Ninja 650R handled it all without complaint-

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    The Ducati Monster is a thirsty girl-
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    Be advised that there are no real gas stations anywhere along the Thai-Lao border between Bo Klua and Chalerm Prakiat... This will have to do-
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    A few more random pics-
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    While the distance wasn't that far, it was a very challenging ride- some of the guys were a bit beat :wink:
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    We didn't get back to Nan until after dark!
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    What a great day! More to come!
     
  8. TonyBKK

    TonyBKK Ol'Timer

    Cheers Marco! Awesome ride- you would have loved it! Not sure when we're doing the Cambo run- will have to talk to the rest of the crew and figure it out. Hope you can join us!
    BTW, I took Franz's FJR1300 for a spin- wow, what an amazing bike! Despite it's size and weight it handles with amazing confidence and precision- I understand you're looking for a replacement for the Panzer Wagon- you should take an FJR 1300 for a spin- I think you will be impressed! HAPPY NEW YEAR and look forward to seeing you again soon! Tony
     
  9. TonyBKK

    TonyBKK Ol'Timer

  10. Franz

    Franz Ol'Timer

    Happy New Year All and especially Tony who did already a perfect job in posting this trip. So for me remain only some comments and fotos... :wink:
    Before leaving CNX I got a brandnew green Ninja 650R at Mr. Mechanic for my partner as I do still not trust the SRX on longer routes..... :p
    Well Fiu and I started from CNX and did an easy run on the Lampang road to Phrae (home sweet home for Fiu) for some grilled fish, lots of Khao Neow and Num Prik; aaaand of course some Singha.... :oops: , night then spent at the Maeyom Palace Hotel for B1200,- and a very nice room. Before going to bed we explored a little bit the surrounding area. The Hotel is easy to find and should ususally be not full. It's on the mainroad from Denchai into town on your left after Big-C and several traffic lights. Just opposite the Hotel is the accessroad to the busstation where usually the whole nightlife is concentrated. Although it might be not so easy to get my favourite Gin & Tonic there...... :cry:
    At the Hotel parking lot eager to go to Nan to meet up with my favourite Bkk hooligan Tony (Gerhard-Bakerboy was not coming but I can assure you Tony did a more than perfect job in replacing him to be my motivation to ride a little bit more faster. :? ).
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    Ride Phrae to Nan was an easy and quick one although the roads were quite slippery and started already to be clogged with Vigo's and Fortuners burning their brakes on every downhill slope (Bkk numberplates naturally !!!! :twisted: ). Once in Nan checked in at the Dhevaraj Hotel for B800,- a night and booked also rooms for the 4 guys on their way. Couldn't wait but wanted to go swimming. Both Fiu and me forgot our swimming gear so off we went to Lotus.....to a shopping centre.....to a sports shop.......to another sports shop, only to be given a choice of 3 swimming trousers size SSS....... :evil: this amounted to 2,5 hours with no positive result......well there's no sea only mountains in Nan...... :roll: .
    And again then had a night with a good dinner with our newcomers Tony, Chris, Rich and Thom.
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    Next day off we went, I on Tony's Ninja, he on the FJR. Man I love the sound of his exhaust and also the timely backfiring when you get into street-dog infested villages...... :oops: .
    I must admit that for a newbie, Fiu did a good job in following us a little more experienced riders, best thing, he did never force it but drove at his own pace. Luckily, no one from our gang went down or even came close to it......(Trent you read this 55555555)....
    Well we went up Doi Phuka, had a break and lunch at the only place again
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    and then stopped only shortly after at a turn which offered a magnificent view and other opportunities, obviously my offer to Tony was not high enough..... :lol: :lol:
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    As I said, I was very civilised this time but one guy on a green modified Ninja always tried to tempt me to go a litten bit faster..... :shock: :shock: .
    Will call him from now on the grinning green speeding devil !!!!5555555
    Yes it's him:
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    Tony no need to thank me for my question about turning left :oops: it was all our wish :lol: to explore new lands and right we were :D . What a stunning road. I must admit that the easiest ride was for Chris on his Phantom. Sorry for Rich and his M900 Duc, I think his wrists must have been hurting like putting them into steam..... :( .
    Anyway parts of the road were really fantastic some were potholed and some dirt, but let's say 85% of this one had good tarmac on it.
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    Well as Tony said there's not much of anything there, neither petrol nor coffeeplaces, even after Chaiprakan it was difficult to get both. Finally we managed to get something to drink and had a rest in the greens of a public park in Tha Wang Pha and managed to get into the dark before reaching Nan. Some roadworks after Chaiprakarn with a little slip'n'slide.
    One thing we will definetely not do more often is ride into the dawn as within 30 minutes you hardly see out of your visors because they will be plastered with all kinds of flying insects......
    Tony even had to slap one bigger moscito on a Wave on his shoulder to get him out of the road, this boy cut him nicely and didn't move then from the middle of the lane. Me had a run-in with an oldie who without looking or caring crossed 3 lanes in one go out of Nan.... :evil: .
    Fiu and Rich had 2 close calls with bridge railings and the sand that was before on the road..... :lol: .
    Anyone going to Nan should cross the main bridge in town on the eastern road to Mae Charim and visit this temple with the beautiful stupa, it's just 2 kms out of town, can't remember the name..... :? the older one gets the more calcium gather's in one's brain..... :oops: ....55555
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    After again a nice dinner an a very good foot-massage in the Hotel we went a little earlier to bed and decided to go together to Phayao next day.
    Well we did the Nan-Chiang Muan-Pong-Phayao one and obviously Tony loved it so much that he hammered his Ninja without mercy again over these nice mountain roads..... :mrgreen: .
    Arrived at Kwan-Phayao soon and checked into the Gateway for B 1000,- a night. After the Dhevaraj in Nan which is the best place, we enjoyed a much bigger room & bathroom at the Gateway that's sure, only the massage was late as some other visitors have beaten us to the bookings. After having dinner at Krua Phet on the lake, Thom and Rich headed quickly back for their massage and only Tony stayed on; but he didn't join us then at the BM pub, wouldn't have gotten on the road the next day before check-out........ :D :D
    Fiu, me and 2 Thai ladies (friends I know 22 years already) enjoyed an overflowing, eardrum shattering get-together in the Pub until later in the night.....
    Here's 2 happy fellas at the lake:
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    Next day when we woke up with a heavy head, Tony, Rich and Thom were already gone and so we had to get out quickly. Took a nice slower ride back to CNX via Wang Nua and Mae Kachan, only to find the main road clogged up already with smoking & smelling Fortuners and Vigos again.
    This was again a trip to remember, we enjoyed it very very much. Especially Tony's friends but most of all Mr. Grinning Green Speeding Devil himself !!!!!! Looking forward to the next one already 55555, Nan again :?: :wink: :?: .
    And as a last, a picture of the whole gang:
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    Thanks guys for this really nice days and see u soon !!!!!!!! Cheers, Franz
     
  11. TonyBKK

    TonyBKK Ol'Timer

    Ha! Talk about the pot calling the kettle black! As I recall it was mostly me trying to keep up with YOU! Always amazing to watch Franz throw that big FJR into the corners like it's a nimble R1! 8)

    Again Franz- I was merely trying to keep up with you! What an AMAZING road that was from Nan to Chiang Muan! It all went by so fast I can't even comment on the views :wink:

    Great photos and wonderful trip! Can't wait for the next one!

    Happy Trails!

    Tony
     
  12. DavidFL

    DavidFL Administrator Staff Member

    Hey Guys
    Wonderful stuff. I'm glad you've finally discovered Nan & its fantastic rolling hills with beautiful swooping roads.
    I reckon that by the end of 2010 Nan will finally, well & truly be on the biking map in Thailand.

    For serious sport bike riders Nan is # 1.

    The Mae Hong Son is legendary for its 1,864 curves on R108 + "the others" (what's the number?) on R1095, but R1095 really is "Fino country."

    Nan is THE TOP DOG for brilliant sport bike riding.

    So there's no doubt you guys had a Happy NEW YEAR.

    Well done - you are indeed lucky guys to start of the new year like that.

    RIDE ON 2010.
     
  13. Franz

    Franz Ol'Timer

    One can only hope that our FL will put Nan onto a future extended GT map.... :lol: :lol: .....
    What's not easy is to find your way around town as the streets criss-cross in angles with ablsoutely no system. Another un-easy part is accommodation, with the Dhevaraj being the No.1 place, you can imagine what the others will be like, but also here things will improve. Try to get some import cigarettes, not many 7/11 I saw in town...... :cry:
    Some more things which amused us was Rich's M900 Duc which started to piss oil from the 'dry-clutch' gasket & housing onto the backtyre. He fixed this in strapping a rag next to the rear brake pedal. Trouble would have been too less, so the Duc decided to refuse starting and give us all some needed exercise....... :p . Well it did run all the time as did we once in flat country..... :D .
    We left out some roads, well we need to go there again and again and needed a reason for doing so.... :wink:
    I think, won't be more than 1-2 months till we meet again at the river for dinner.........but next time it's definetely on the SRX........
    cheers, Franz
     
  14. DavidFL

    DavidFL Administrator Staff Member

    Yes a map for Nan is a good idea & I'm toying with the idea, but I think a new guide book is going to come first; then a Nan - LPQ map.

    Re Nan city, yep even I still get confused there. The streets are not in a normal grid system & are offset to each other, probably something to with following the river & so many beautiful temples for the roads to go around.

    My fave joints in Nan were
    1. The old Deheveraj, still good value for money I think, although the Fah Tanin was exceptional value while it was open.
    2. Darios restaurant, run by Toom. N18 46.877 E100 46.474. Please drop in & say hello to Toom for me &/or even eat there. Her farang food is excellent.
    3. The Verachon Pub, down on the river just past the prison. N18 46.157 E100 46.416
    4. Channel X Disco late at night
    5. Duan Phen? Pub & Restaurant. N18 46.962 E100 46.483

    For other accommodation that I've GPS-ed, but not stayed at
    1. Grand Maison? hotel N18 47.182 E100 46.614.
    2. Eurng Kham. N18 47.053 E100 45.964
    3. Rim Suan Place. N18 47.050 E100 46.084
    4. Nannatee. N18 47.044 E100 46.097
    5. 69 Hotel. N18 46.843 E100 45.744

    There also used to be the Mai Muang Pub. N18 47.470 E100 46.855 at which I've had a few good nights too.

    I will try to check these all out in a week or two before Laos.,
     
  15. Franz

    Franz Ol'Timer

    David, just get jealous when I read that you'll be there in a one or two weeks time, well let's see, :D :idea: my job doesn't make too much fun...... :evil: :!: .....let's wait a litten bit....... :wink: .
    Will try out some of your recommended places soon :mrgreen: , thanks for the tips and GPS coordinates FL !!!!
    You are right in saying that Nan is No.1 Sports Bike country in LOS, I would even call it No.1 biker country as even on D-Trackers, KLX'es, Waves or Finos anyone would have fun. Seen some biggies on the road too, mainly tourers, sports bikes and enduro's, seldom choppers as there are no straight roads and no cheering crowds. :D :D
    We have seen that size is no matter with Chris on his Phantom, just up the hill he slowed but otherwise we didn't wait that long for him to catch up !!
    Police in Nan is very very courteous & helpful too, ALWAYS smiling and eager for a short yak-yak !!
    Cheers, Franz
     
  16. Franz

    Franz Ol'Timer

    Sorry, one more post but an IMPORTANT one !
    Must give all the credit for bringing me and I think TonyBkk too to this beautiful part of Thailand all to MRS. PETER DOUGAL and Marco Matti Jaekkimaekki who first told us about Doi Phuka !!! So once more many many thanks to both of you, a fantastic tip !!
    Cheers, Franz
     
  17. TonyBKK

    TonyBKK Ol'Timer

    I was pretty unimpressed with the Devaraj Hotel... I know some rooms have been refurbished, but I was in one of the old rooms and it was really quite poor. Musty smell, clogged sink, ants, rather miserable breakfast buffet... No, next time I'll try to find the 350 Baht guest house that Liam took me too on our previous ride. Brand new, very clean, big room, hot water and a good solid bed.

    Channel X Disco sounds interesting though! 8)

    When are you going to be in Nan David? I'm thinking of blasting up there again the weekend of Jan 15-17 and would be great fun to catch up with you!

    Happy Trails!

    Tony
     
  18. Franz

    Franz Ol'Timer

    Tony's right, although we got a newly renovated room there this time, still the toilet seat is for babies, bathroom not ventilated at all, room much too small and at my previous stay I got the room with what Tony stated above. Doors to the corridor are not insulating any noise that goes in or out, view from room is mainly into another building which is just 2 meters away by the most. This time we didn't have time and leasure to look beforehand so therefor Dhevaraj but next time something different for sure. B/F of course in these local '3 star' is a no-no (cold eggs, ham and sausages from CP which make you vomit.....toast you can sit on a week and then it still springs back to the original size, coffee that tastes like fresh out of the sink.....), there's a small coffeebar just 100 meters to the right of the Hotel where I managed to get at least some decent coffee. Right next to the Dhevaraj is the Nan-Fa which is a no-no for me too as totally built from wood; I wouldn't like to experience some fire there......
    Comparing it to the Maeyom Palace in Phrae which is wonderful or even the Gateway in Phayao, Dhevaraj would earn half a star, Gateway 2 and Maeyom 3.
    Cheers, Franz
     
  19. Auke

    Auke Ol'Timer

    A friend recommended the Sasidara - about 800 Baht at N18.77396 E100.75600 A bit out of town (west) along Rd 1025 but good value for money.

    There is also the Sukthai Home & Resort just before the airport on the east side coming from the north. Coordinates: N18.81197 E100.77616
     
  20. Marco

    Marco Ol'Timer

    Franz
    Thanx for credit but is Mrs Dougal who did got me invoved there as well,,

    i have to say that it has been really pleasure to ride with you and Bkk Huligans, lead by Tony every time, that group NEVER let any one down, in ride and in PARTY....

    Hope to see you guys soon

    My next even is 16th in nong Khai Mc Lobo party
     
  21. TonyBKK

    TonyBKK Ol'Timer

    Well, I'm hoping to blast back up to Nan in a couple of weeks and will try some of the other places you all have mentioned. Last year I stayed at a place that I think was called the "Nan Guest House", run by a nice European-Thai couple that Dougal introduced me to and it was quite cozy and boasted a very good home cooked breakfast. Only draw back is that they have a curfew and lock the gate after a certain hour...
    Will also have to try and get the name of the GH that Liam booked for me last time.
     
  22. TonyBKK

    TonyBKK Ol'Timer

    Ooooh! 8) MC party in Nong Khai on the 16th, eh???

    Hmmmm, that is VERY tempting, especially if Marco will be there...

    Perhaps Nan can wait- there are certainly some decent roads on the way to Nong Khai that I wouldn't mind revisiting... Lom Sak- Nakhon Thai is awesome as is the Highway 12...

    Only 800km from Bangkok- easy ride :mrgreen:

    http://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=Route+304%2FThanon+Suwinthawong&daddr=16.694079,101.640015+to:Nong+Khai,+Thailand&hl=en&geocode=FQbC0gAdzNEBBg%3B%3BFd-VEwEdLLgnBim5OZrRAeskMTEwSmATQbUCAQ&mra=dme&mrcr=0&mrsp=1&sz=8&via=1&sll=16.704602,103.112183&sspn=2.541007,4.938354&ie=UTF8&ll=17.397821,102.86499&spn=2.531597,4.938354&z=8
     
  23. bard

    bard Ol'Timer

    Wow nice trip you fellers had, would have loved to join that one. I discovered with my riding style the R1 has little mileage on the tank, but up North it should be much better, as you don't ride as fast as down on the slab in South East.

    Well done guys and I envy that tour, looked fantastic.

    Cheers Bard
     
  24. Marco

    Marco Ol'Timer

    Ooooh! 8) MC party in Nong Khai on the 16th, eh???

    Hmmmm, that is VERY tempting, especially if Marco will be there...

    Perhaps Nan can wait- there are certainly some decent roads on the way to Nong Khai that I wouldn't mind revisiting... Lom Sak- Nakhon Thai is awesome as is the Highway 12...

    Only 800km from Bangkok- easy ride :mrgreen:

    http://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=Route+304%2FThanon+Suwinthawong&daddr=16.694079,101.640015+to:Nong+Khai,+Thailand&hl=en&geocode=FQbC0gAdzNEBBg%3B%3BFd-VEwEdLLgnBim5OZrRAeskMTEwSmATQbUCAQ&mra=dme&mrcr=0&mrsp=1&sz=8&via=1&sll=16.704602,103.112183&sspn=2.541007,4.938354&ie=UTF8&ll=17.397821,102.86499&spn=2.531597,4.938354&z=8
    Tony
    Would be nice to see you up there,,,i heard hat MC Lobo is majority og german Speaking guys so im sure the "Party" will be up to Standards...LOL
     
  25. Auke

    Auke Ol'Timer

    Nan Guest House is located at N18 46.659 E100 46.176 which is a bit north west of the Nan National Museum in a soi off Maha Prom Rd. Telephone 054-771849
     
  26. TonyBKK

    TonyBKK Ol'Timer

    Cheers Marco,
    Well, I'll see what the rest of the BKK Hooligans are in the mood for and we'll take it from there. I spent one night in Nong Khai last year and quite enjoyed it- wouldn't mind visiting again.
    Hope to see you in a couple of weeks!
    Tony
     

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