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Motorcycle Chains

 
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Davidfl
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PostPosted: 27.08.2008, 00:04    Post subject: Motorcycle Chains

Interesting website on chain facts
http://www.quality-cycle.com/truth_about_motorcycle_chains.htm
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johngooding
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PostPosted: 27.08.2008, 07:50    Post subject:

Its an interesting site and agree that all the O rings are supposed to do is keep in lubrication, and keep out dirt from the wear areas, so allowing less frequent external lubrication.


However when I see the example picture of how to lube a chain, and I see the tyre is going to be covered in chain lube, I do worry a little!!!
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pikey
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PostPosted: 27.08.2008, 12:09    Post subject:

Yes, interesting site. To give you a little tip John, when I lube my chain, I cut a piece of cardboard from say, a cereal box and hold it behind the chain when spraying to keep it off the tyre.

Also, on dirtbikes, I use WD-40 or some similar multilube as I suspect that the "stickier" types of lubes just attract dust/grit and form a nice friction paste to grind your chain away - anyone have any views on this?

Cheers,

Pikey.
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johngooding
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PostPosted: 27.08.2008, 12:54    Post subject:

Thanks Pikey,
Definately a good idea to keep the lube off the tyres. I was just concerned that the chain site would show a picture showing what seems to be very sloppy practice.
I once spent quite a few hours surfing different chain maint sites, and found there is a camp that says WD40 alone regularly applied will do the job just as well as the expensive lubes. There are also many people who say WD40 causes corrosion problems. Many sites test different lubes and the ones that seem to come out best are the ones that dry to a non tacky finish.
I think the key is REGULAR lubing, and keeping the tension correct. WD 40 does do quite a good job of cleaning if sprayed on and wiped off, then a final light spray.
Interested to hear what others think, as some of the recommeded lubes on the sites I have seen are not readily available under the same brand names here in Thailand.
Cheers
John
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Franz - Eastern Seaboard
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PostPosted: 27.08.2008, 17:32    Post subject:

John I use sometimes a similar product SONAX MoS2 and it always worked out fine, sometimes I use a greasing spray also mostly from SONAX, while using this one, dirt builds up in no time whereas the MoS2 doesn't attach every bit of stone and branch to both chain and fixed parts. Nor did I have too much negative experiences with corrosion once sprayed with MoS2. So as for you, it also works out for me. Cheers, Franz
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pikey
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PostPosted: 27.08.2008, 17:52    Post subject:

Good stuff chaps. I'm a bit puzzled about reports of corrosion using WD-40 e.t.c as most of these multilubes are water-dispersants & rust inhibitors that leave a thin film of lube after the carrier liquid has evapourated.

Also, I always lube my chain after a ride whilst it's still hot - the thinking being that the lube will flow more freely and the metal is expanded so maybe the lube will find it's way into those places with tighter tolerances. Not sure though....

Cheers,

Pikey.
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johngooding
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PostPosted: 27.08.2008, 18:01    Post subject:

Good tip about doing it while the chain hot, I do the same, although here in Khon Kaen it never seems to drop below 30C in the day anyway.
I was suprised about the corrosion issue with the WD40 type products, but if you do a google on chain, WD40 and corrosion you will find a number of studies that state this. Anyway we are in Thailand and I guess conditions here are very different from many other countries and if it works here why knock it?
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rich1968
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PostPosted: 27.08.2008, 18:34    Post subject:

Just bought a new Rk chain and they advise using SAE 80-90 gear lube, so I went out and got some high viscosity outboard gear lube SAE 80-90 made for outboard motors (220 baht for 10 fl.oz) In the past I have used WD40 although I found it not very long lasting, hopefully this wont be the case now.
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Davidfl
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PostPosted: 27.08.2008, 18:37    Post subject: Chain Lubricants

CHAIN LUBES
Well here it is for me

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcycle-chain-lube/chain-lubes-2008.htm

From the above

Quote:
Chain Lube Criteria
So that's why we basically have to trust whatever they're telling us on the label. Kind of like motorcycle oil... Let's face it: the criteria for motorcycle chain lubes are:

Availability: That is, you can get it without too much effort;

Price: It costs what you're willing to pay;

Ease of Use: Easy to apply (whatever the word "easy" means to you -- because if it ain't easy to apply, you're not going to do it, and the "best" chain lube in the world is worthless if it sits on the shelf);

Resistance to Fling-Off: It stays on the chain and doesn't spray all over the wheel, swingarm and everywhere else;

Longevity: The product seems to last, at least until the next time you get up enough energy to bend down and do the job again;

Effectiveness: That it works (or at least seems to, because again -- who really knows?).

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Last edited by Davidfl on 27.08.2008, 22:25; edited 1 time in total
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johngooding
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PostPosted: 27.08.2008, 20:33    Post subject:

Hi David,
Ive seen this one very interesting. Can you get Klotz KLR over here?
Cheers, John
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Davidfl
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PostPosted: 27.08.2008, 22:11    Post subject:

johngooding wrote:
Hi David,
Ive seen this one very interesting. Can you get Klotz KLR over here?
Cheers, John


Just got an email in from the USA:, with these claimed distributors

NITHICHA CO. LTD
22 Sukumvit 101 Punvithi 24
Banchak, Phrakanog
Bangkok Thailand
668 1 8084814

SIAM ENGINEERING SPAREPART
12/12/Moo 11 Latphrao-WangHin
Bangkok Thailand
662 570 43213
www.oilsolutions.net


NTC ENGINEERING HOBBIES
150 south Bridge Road
#02-22 Fook Hai Building
Singapore
65341162
www.mrcstore.com
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beddhist
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PostPosted: 27.08.2008, 22:44    Post subject:

Joe's Bike team use gear oil SAE 140. The problem with this for me is that I'm travelling and it's nowhere near as easy to apply as a spray.

Reading both articles about chains and lube I think you will detect some contradictions.

Quote:
Try to make sure the spray gets on the side plates -- that's really what you're lubing, because the O-rings are theoretically keeping the insides of the rollers filled with grease, and any lube on the outside of the rollers is gone the first time they pass through the sprockets.


I'm afraid I can't agree with both these statements. Whether the plates are rusty or not is irrelevant. It's the pins passing through the inner plates that are wearing. The main reason for lube is that you want to keep grime and especially water away from the O-rings and you do want the rollers at least slightly lubricated. Because if the rollers and sprocket are dry you will get excessive wear on the sprockets.

I've been using Teflon sprays with good effect in dry climates, getting 30000km out of a kit. But the Teflon doesn't seem good at keeping water away and water kills chains.

Pity we are for the most part stuck with this design fault that is an open running chain...
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johngooding
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PostPosted: 29.08.2008, 17:27    Post subject:

Quote:

Pity we are for the most part stuck with this design fault that is an open running chain...

....which the Yamaha FJR solves quite neatly...with a shaft drive 'lol'
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Franz - Eastern Seaboard
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PostPosted: 29.08.2008, 17:50    Post subject:

Pity we are for the most part stuck with this design fault that is an open running chain...

On all of my former Waves & Dreams, chain was enclosed, if it's humid in the housing then your chain will get rust all over in a veryquick time, so it happened to me, it's better not to enclose it, so you see every day when there's a need for some lubrication or cleaning up.......and for me the same as for John, FJR's shaft drive is like heaven for us lazy oil-guys..... Razz
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