The Golden Triangle Rider

STUART · Cyclist Joined: 13 Apr 2007 Posts: 17 Location: USA

Here is the story:
We entered Xaysomboune from Phonsavan via 1D and 5. We were told that there was a guest house there. The cops picked us up at the large market in Namcha, Khixang or Muang Cha. Map and local signs not clear on the boundaries. After they took our passports we were told to follow them to the police station. They questioned us for about three hours, then after it was too dark to leave town told us to check into a hotel. Their boss was not there and he needed to talk to us the next day. We reluctantly agreed. They kept our passports. We returned at 8 the next morning and asked to wait. We waited 5 hours, and after they had their lunch they questioned us for another 5 hours. They looked at every picture we had taken (about 700) and asked us many questions. During all of this they were mostly nonthreating with the exception of a couple drunk and belligerent cops who slammed things around and hit on our girlfriends. At first they wanted $100 each person (X4) and we said that we could not pay that. They counter offered with 2 million kip (about $240US). After talking to the US embassy in Vientianne we decided that paying that would be better than staying another day there (or possibly a lot longer). We are still not sure where or when we violated any laws. We saw no signs, guards or any other indication that this was a restricted area.
Beware,
Stuart
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STUART · Cyclist Joined: 13 Apr 2007 Posts: 17 Location: USA

If any one can tell me what I did wrong please post
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All who wander are not lost

burnjr · Posted: 29.04.2008, 09:46 Post subject:

sad news bro...just 1 question u entre by bike or others..

STUART · Cyclist Joined: 13 Apr 2007 Posts: 17 Location: USA

we entered xaysomboune by motorcycle that were rented in vientianne
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burnjr · Posted: 30.04.2008, 09:14 Post subject:

is too bad may be can ask jimoi about this.. Very Happy

jimoi · Posted: 30.04.2008, 19:02 Post subject:

I've done some checking around and no real answers since I was not there and we don't know exactly the reason from the police. One or two things that came up talking to those that should know.
1. The area is just one of those places not really opened up to tourism. The Phu Bia crowd at the mining site get by no problem because of the industry but tourists are not a known commodity as they are in Luang Prabang or Vang Vieng.
2. Events in the area might have happened earlier and made the police/military on edge, it happens.

I'm not sure if the people that were doing the Q&A were police or military, odds are they were military attached in some way. The fine is pretty steep according to the people I talked to. When I told them of nationality and the pillion were Thai, they all seemed to nod at once and it became easier for them to believe.

Of note, many people have ridden through here but not stopped - as far as I am aware of they bolted from Tha Viang past Xaysomboune non-stop. I know that Stuart had good translation and there were most likely no mis-communications with the authorities.

I'm not 100% sure. There are a lot of possibilities. Once I was accused of being a catholic missionary and held up for a bit of money and wasted a ton of time, this is just something you have to be prepared to wait thru and pay off. Tracking around places that are sensitive to the Lao with GPS, high resolution cameras, video, loads of cash and toys that they are unfamiliar with is always something to be aware of. Places like LPQ are not an issue so much but areas around Long Chien, Nam On, Vietnamese, Chinese, Myanmar and the Thai border are can be touchy.
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Davidfl · Posted: 01.05.2008, 16:08 Post subject:

Stuart
It sounds like you had a real adventurous trip.
Xaysomboun has always been a sensitive area & it doesn't come as a shock that you got hassled, but the fine was a beauty - ouch!
But for anyone who likes to ride in "sensitive areas", then yes, you should expect the odd local complication from time to time.

What map were you using?

I'd love to see some photos from the trip if you want to share them.
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STUART · Cyclist Joined: 13 Apr 2007 Posts: 17 Location: USA

I was using your map and a Reise know- how map of Laos. The reise map is large and has a scale (1:600,000) that shows a lot of detail. We are especially interested in the smaller dirt roads. Unfortunately we discovered that a lot of that detail is inaccurate. No problem though, as we enjoy being lost more than bored. There is a new version out now, perhaps they fixed some of that.
Your map does warn of restricted entry quite a ways away to the north west. But, since we were not stopped at any check points (as I would expect for a restricted area) and far away from Longcheng, I am surprised that we had any problems. And even more strangely is that they seemed more interested in our travels south to Muang Ao Neua. We did see a lot of logging and clear cutting in that area. We were forced to turn back by bad roads that eventually just ended.
I wouldn't mind sharing my pictures with you. It's just that I have never done it and need to find out how. I will look into.
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daewoo · Posted: 05.05.2008, 11:25 Post subject:

STUART · Cyclist Joined: 13 Apr 2007 Posts: 17 Location: USA

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STUART · Cyclist Joined: 13 Apr 2007 Posts: 17 Location: USA

This is another angle of the market where we were picked up. anyone know the name? The police station was a short distance to the east

Bad road I mentioned

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STUART · Cyclist Joined: 13 Apr 2007 Posts: 17 Location: USA

ooops bulk upload does not resize. Sorry, I'm learning
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daewoo · Posted: 05.05.2008, 13:26 Post subject:

jimoi · Posted: 13.05.2008, 12:18 Post subject:

I just came through the same area, stopped at the same market and as well at a small shop in Xaysomboune with a friend of mine on Bajas. No problems and after I fueled in Xaysomboune, went back into 'town' and used a local mechanic shop for about 10 minutes directly across the street from about 20 military and a few police having lunch. No problems again.
There was a lot of activity on the road but again, smiles and waves from the boys in green.
Two clients of ours were through here as well the week before - no problems.
I've also spoken now to several other people here in Laos and there seems to be no trouble riding past here.

I don't know what to say about the fine, was there an official reason? My question might be, did you ride somewhere off the trail before the town or did you take photos of things not supposed to be shot?
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STUART · Cyclist Joined: 13 Apr 2007 Posts: 17 Location: USA

We went many places and shot many pictures. We were never told that any of this was a problem. Their reason was that we were not allowed in Xaysomboune itself. It was closed to tourists. The two times we encountered a road block or guards we were turned back. If we wanted to visit they said we should have stopped by the police station to ask permission first. Problem is we would have already entered the "forbidden zone". My friend has the official confession that we signed. It is in Lao so I can not read it. I will try to get a copy sent off to you, perhaps you can get something from it.
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All who wander are not lost