I needed a change from Chiang Mai for a while so headed down past Bangkok to the Bang Saphan area south of Hua Hin. A new friend has a resort by the beach just out from Bang Saphan.
Here's what I found.
I ensconced myself here at Larry and wife Khun Thongbai's new Palm Gardens Resort.
They have 4 large rooms, a salt water pool, Nissan March, motorbikes and bicycles for rent. Very friendly people and only 100 metres from the beach.
Here it is.
A few bars are nearby on the beach-front and the wonderful I Talay restaurant is there too.
I rented a Wave from Larry for a few days and headed off to explore the area north and south.
My rough plan was to slowly ride up to the Ban Krut area then, on a different day, ride down to the Bang Berd area, taking as many side tracks as possible. Which I did.
This was a totally new Thai environment for me and one that I felt 'at home' in as soon as I arrived. Cool ocean breeze, light rain in the afternoon, seafood, long and clean beaches. Paradise.
A couple of Palm Trees, a hammock, a cold beer and a book.
Therapy.
A stroll through the shallows, collecting shells and filling the lungs with clean oxygen.
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A late afternoon beer at the friendly Montri's Bar, watching the sun set.
An evening seafood meal at the wonderful I Talay, right on the beach.
Cool, fresh sea breeze. The smell of the ocean and its gentle waves.
Next morning more beach strolling and generally winding down, taking in my new surroundings. 'Winding down'? In my retirement?
Then, lungs filled with refreshingly clean oxygen, I rode through Bang Saphan and onward as close to the beach as possible.
Along the way I noticed this guy looking up to the heavens.
'What's he up to and what's with the rope?', I wondered.
(Remember you locals; I've never been here before.)
Ah, of course.
He's attached via the rope to monkey labourers collecting coconuts.
I'd heard of this but never actually seen it.
So I stayed there for a while just watching and listening.
The handler would only whistle instructions to his workers.
He later told me his labourers don't have names; they only obey his whistle and don't need names.
'Thud, thud', I heard every few seconds throughout this small beachside plantation.
There was a troupe of about 12 extremely obedient and agile labourers working this plantation.
And this guy, obviously experienced in where to stand and where to not stand, collected the coconuts and loaded them into his cart.
It seems simplistic, but this new experience really impressed me and made me feel so glad I had chosen to travel to this part of Thailand for a complete change from my usual routines.
And this guy, carefully watching what might be falling down to concuss him, was training an apprentice.
I rode from the plantation smiling and slowly trickled along the beach road to Ban Krut where I stopped at this coffee shop for a bit of caffeine and a look around. (No guys; you're supposed to be looking at the book-stack chairs at the coffee table!)
This is the beach road.
Sigh.
Quite a few little huts at the edge of the beach.
I guess they are for fisherfolk.
I'd actually pay to stay in one of these.
Ban Krut is nice.
Quite a few international tourists there and many resorts, although there are abandoned and closed resorts in this area too. I think they over-did the resort building.
And this residence (I call a mansion) is abandoned too!
Warning!
This beach road is not without its dangers.
A humble little roadside hut, complete with a mattress inside.
Sun setting now, so I slowly returned to Palm Gardens resort because I knew what was waiting there.
Life's a beach!
So another night strolling along the beach and enjoying the very cold beer at Montri's Bar. He even had Niel Young CDs, just to wrap up a most enjoyable day.
Next day I headed back towards the Ban Krut area.
But I wanted to have a closer look at this, at first, quite innocuous building.
I couldn't get into the driveway past the electric wires as I was asked to stay outside by some construction workers.
So its a nesting tower for those little (swallows?) which secrete that extremely valuable saliva. I'd seen the guys further down south collecting this treasured secretion from cave walls as they perched precariously above the rocks. I had no idea this industry had gone urban. I was amazed to see new and old buildings being used to harvest bird saliva.
Is the saliva transliterated to 'Bird Cling'?
Another research topic for me.
See, abandoned apartments are not wasted.
The birds are happy, the saliva collectors are happy, the retailers are happy, the exporters are even happier, the restaurateurs are extremely happy and the (mainly Chinese) consumers are delighted.
Seems to be a 'win win' situation.
See the little PVC 'doorways set into the concreted windows?
I was later told that, depending on quality, one kilogram of low quality bird saliva sells locally for $1400. Must check that later.
So, another new experience, then very slowly onward towards Ban Krut again, taking time to stroll the beaches.
I stopped to watch what these fisherfolk were doing.
Just hauling their catch in towards the Honda Bitsa.
What's that? A barracuda?
Where's 'Fishenough' when I need him?
Whatever it is, the guy was very pleased with it.
I was only there 15 minutes or so and two groups on motorbikes (that's 7 humans) stopped to haggle purchases from these fisherfolk.
I'd be doing likewise if I ever lived in this area.
Hmmmmmm. There's a thought.
Onward.
A few homes had these coconut piles out front.
I rode across the main Southern line to look at a Temple in the jungle.
Ahhh, steam trains. Those were the days.
I stopped to chat with this couple enjoying a romantic interlude beside the beach.
He's paraplegic, but had set up his bike to perfectly suit his needs; right down to a fan, powered from his battery, he has mounted on his right side handlebar. Storage bins on each side. A really happy-go-lucky type of guy who I met again later in the day and received a wave and 'bip bip' from. Respect, Sir.
Lots of these humble little dwelling amongst the palms.
And lots of Burmese labourers in the local fishing/prawning industry.
I rode in towards a 'shanty town' on the beach front and was greeted by these gorgeous kids. No English, apart from 'one, two, three, four'! Bless them.
I appears that the boat had quite literally come in for them. Note the new bicycle and the new clothes.
Oh well, time to return to base.
Found this pile of husks in Bang Saphan.
Can't hang around here though.
The sun is setting, it's Sunday and I know what's in the oven back at Larry and Khun Thongbai's resort.
Yes, a roast pork dinner.
This is available every Sunday afternoon to any guests who want to swap 290 baht for the feast.
I'm salivating right now as I download this photo.
I can actually smell it!
Recommend.
Another good sleep in the very comfy rooms.
Something was strange here though.
What was it?
Ahhh, silence! Peace and quiet. The Sounds of Silence.
No screaming karaoke. No yapping dogs. No 150 decibel hip hop crap from passing mobile discos. No farting tuk-tuks. No slamming doors from Condo neighbours. No drunk over at the outdoor market mourning for his lover who'd found a sober ATM.
Up bright and early.
Feed the resident Minah birds.
Scrambled eggs on toast with Larry, a few bad jokes a dip in his pool and it was time to bring the trusty Honda Wave to life for another days riding, this time in a southerly direction.
There's a few mosques in the area.
The Wave doesn't quite have the 430km touring range that my Africa Twin does, so it was time for another top-up. Something I noted travelling around on a small bike is the fact that one has to be more aware of fuel consumption and fuel availability. Plenty of places selling it (or some liquid that looks like fuel) from bottles though.
This little chap was doing his homework at his parents fuel station when I arrived.
As usual, I asked if I could make a photo so he discards his homework and squats down beside his 'minder'.
I meandered down to the Bang Berd area but didn't find it as interesting as yesterday's ride.
I wanted to buy some gifts for friends, so I headed back to Bang Saphan and found a shirt shop. This little girl was sitting outside making a local 'somtam'.
So that was part of my little 'battery recharge' by the sea.
Thanks Larry and Thongbai; see you again for sure.
I recommend Palm Gardens Resort.
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Originally Posted by 2wheels
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