Having enjoyed a wonderful three days with the Hmong during their New Year celebrations I was keen to witness first-hand how the Lahu celebrate the occasion.
I rode up to Mae Chan on the 27th, where I was graciously hosted by Khun Pim and ‘Feelthenoise’.
Khun Fon, David Learmonth, Khun Nah and Steve 'Elkie’ joined us and we enjoyed a night of chatting, laughing, drinking at a Bar/Restaurant. I wont mention the ‘steak’ that I tried to eat!
The Friday night market in Mae Chan is wonderful; such a wide array of items and munchies. It was good to hear some ethnic dialects that differ from those of the Chiang Mai area.
Khun Pim, ‘Feelthenoise’ and I rode out along 1089 towards the village where the Lahu celebrations were held this year (but not next year).
There are a few Churches along the way.
Thanks to precise directions from ‘Ianyanok’ it was easy to find the place. We met Ian there, then we went our own ways.
This was the scene to greet us as we were invited to park our bikes in the shade and in a secure place under a wooden house. Wow, what magnificent costumes.
"Kin Wo" or the Lahu New Year Festival is an important festival of the Lahu. Everyone wears a new set of clothes on that day. Entertainments include folk music and a dance which is done to welcome foreigners and members of other hilltribes attaining the "Kin Wo" Festival. The Lahu dance is called "Cha Khue". They will dance all night long. Those who are tired will take a rest and those who are still active will take turn to dance continuously in order not to allow the stepping sound to fade away. Even though this is a joyous time, no one is allowed to drink. During the fair period, nobody works. A Lahu who violates this rule will be fined. Besides, they must travel to visit their relatives at other villages as well. During the "Kin Wo" Festival, they kill pigs to make offerings to "ghosts" every day." (from Anurak Thailand Tourism)
I'll post some pics of the Lahu which show their magnificent costumes and their delightfully proud faces.
These two matriarchs seemed to be running the show (behind the scenes).
It was now around mid-day and quite warm. People were at the venue arriving on foot, after parking their vehicles at the entrance to the village. Hundreds of people were arriving! So much so that the narrow confines of this particular venue, together with the large number of people soon meant we were all shoulder to shoulder.
The event was well organized. Cold water was provided for the thirsty, as was seating in shaded areas.
Every vantage point was used so as to get a good view of the action.
This friendly young lady was a nurse. I felt better after talking to her.
This phone call lasted a very long time!
As for the actual ceremonies, well they were interesting but I guess one had to be Lahu to understand and appreciate them fully. There was what I shall describe as a ‘totem pole’ erected in an open area, which was the main focus of the events of the day.
There was dancing around this ‘pole’ which reminded me of a Native American ceremony. The Lahu, at various stages, danced to the beat of drums. There was chanting in front of a large portrait of the King of Thailand.
The people there were friendly and quite obviously proud of their culture and wonderful costumes. Lahu appear to have a strong connection to silver.
There was what I gather to be a beauty contest. Girls registered their names first.
And this chap won the 'wildest hair do' award.
Some of their silver adornments are very elaborate and expensive. I sat with two ladies who were selling silver. The two items at top left cost 45,000 baht each.
The silver sellers were doing a roaring trade too …
… well, until a fleet of VIPs in their vans and cars arrived, blocked the access road and poisoned us with exhaust fumes!
'I wanna go home.'
Some relevant sites;
http://www.hilltribe.org/lahu/lahu-newyear.php
http://www.everyculture.com/East-Sou...e-Culture.html
http://www.hilltribetour.com/autopag...&d_id=2&page=1
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lahu_people#Religion
I left soon after the VIPs arrived, past this road-side arm-chair ...
... stopping at Amy on 1089 and enjoyed their spaghetti and bacon and a ‘Mend Pour Spins’.
(photo by 'Feelthenoise')
This is Amy.
Then the sound of Triumph and Ianyanok called in and we had our first chat. Nice to meet you Ian.
And on 29th ‘Feelthernoise’, Khun Fon as pillion to rider David L and I rode the enjoyable 1211 out from Chiang Rai to 118, then the usual Meringue and drinks at Charin.
(photo by 'Feelthenoise')
Then a stop at Nine One coffee at the Hot Springs, where aching feet received some welcome relief. (They have a trough where customers can sip coffee and bathe body parts in steaming water. Nice.)
(Photo by 'Feelthenoise')
Not too many maniacs on the 118 that day, despite it being Sunday, so it was a pleasant and safe ride into CMai.
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