Traffic, Roads & Highways:

GENERAL
There is an excellent up-country network of roads in North Thailand. 90% of the roads, asphalt or gravel, are good.

Inexperienced riders those who don't normally ride a motorcycle, or those without experience riding longer distances / hours can find the winding mountain roads tiring after a few hours; however this is all relative to the individual rider's general fitness and health.

RULES OF THE ROAD
Are not unlike those in the West, but in accident situations the crucial factor may be which vehicle ran into which vehicle, not necessarily which vehicle caused the accident; the logic being that you should watch were you are going.

SPEED LIMITS
Are lower than those in the West with the locals generally driving slower. Through the towns and villages 40 KPH is the normal speed limit with 90 - 100 KPH the limit on the open roads. These are not strictly enforced, so stay alert and you'll stay upright. 
Note that if you ride at faster than 80 kph, then you need to pay attention to the road, and don't have time to look at the scenery. 
On 4-lane dual carriage ways, the speed limit is sometimes higher at 100-120 kph; but there aren't too many 4-lanes in the North (really only route 1). In practice on the "4-lane supers" almost anything goes, which is ok if you've got the right bike and are personally capable of riding a higher level. Just remember that the locals are not looking for other vehicles travelling at speed, and so tend not to look too far down the road - you've been warned!

DISTANCES
Travelled in a day are not great. First time tourers should only expect to comfortably ride 150 - 250 kms per day, if they want to see something. More than this & you need to be riding quite hard, paying attention to the road and traffic, and not the scenery, with little time to stop, take photos and explore. The main reason for the small distances is a slower travel speed. On the winding mountain roads, average speeds are down to 40-60 kph, riding hard! Don’t kid yourself that you can come & ride hundreds of kilometres, at speed (120kph +), in a day like you might do in Aussie, the US of A or in the EU.

HOLIDAYS
The roads can be busy during holidays or festival times. 
The busiest periods of the year are:

1.       New Year. Last week December - first week January.

2.       Chinese New year. One week, usually in February.

3.       Thai New Year, Songkran. One week around April 13 - 15.

4.       Loy Krathong festival. One week around full moon in November.

Due to the volume of traffic on the road and heavy accommodation bookings, these periods are not the best times for touring. 
Songkran (Thai New Year) is a seriously bad time to ride & tour is definitely not recommended. Be warned, it is totally dangerous with buckets of water thrown indiscriminately, often purposely in your face.

Other public holidays, which could also mean busy long weekends, are:

1.       February / March full moon. Makha Bucha Day.

2.       April 6th. Chakri Day. 

3.       May 1st. Labour Day.

4.       May 5th. Coronation Day.

5.       May full moon. Visakha Bucha Day.

6.       July 1st. Mid-year bank holiday.

7.       July full moon. Asahala Bucha Day.

8.       August 12th. HM Queen's Birthday.

9.       October 23rd. Chulalongkorn Day.

10.   December 3rd. Trooping of the Colours.

11.   December 5th. HM King's Birthday.

12.   December 10th.  Constitution Day.

ASPHALT ROADS
In general the roads are good, and 30 kms out of Chiang Mai they are almost deserted. With the road surface, watch out for changes in the road colour, which might indicate a more slippery surface. Warning signs are seldom posted for sand, oil, or loose stones on the road (and you can’t sue anyone for negligence here.)
 

Hot Season - hard riders should beware of asphalt with a very smooth, shiny black appearance, as this can be quite slippery. Not easy to pick out, it is often present where heavy cornering has occurred and the road metal has separated from asphalt with a build up of tyre rubber leaving a slippery surface. Motorcyclists cornering hard on this surface should be careful not to get into a slide. Also in the heat slow heavy vehicles often leave oil slicks on the steeper inclines, so watch out for these too.

Steep mountain roads - watch out for large rocks left on the road by the drivers of large vehicles. These are often used for putting under the wheels when stopped on the steep slope. I've had good personal experience of this, and it was both costly and painful. The lesson learned - don't follow too closely behind the vehicle in front of you, or you won't see the hazard on the road ahead!

After wet season - some of the asphalt roads are potholed, but they are usually repaired within a couple of months.

Cold Season - water seepage can make some asphalt roads damp and slippery. This often occurs in well-forested areas and is noticeable in the mornings, mainly on the Mae Hong Son loop; but it can also occur on the main Chiang Mai – Chiang Rai highway (specifically 55 kms north of Chiang Mai, on a sweeping left hander), as one rider found out on the way to Laos in Dec. 1999.

DIRT ROADS
Inexperienced dirt riders can find the steep and winding dirt roads tricky. On steep roads, remember it is easier going uphill than down. Excessive use of the front brake can cause you to lock up the front wheel, get into a slide, lose control and maybe fall off. If you are riding a four-stroke bike, you have the advantage of engine braking. Use this along with the rear brake when descending; staying off the front brake and it is a lot safer.

Exploring dirt tracks when you are going down a very steep slope, just remember that there may not be another way out and that you might have to turn around somewhere on the steep slope and come back out the same way. This may not always be that easy if you are alone. We've been caught out before, and it does help to have someone else with you.

Wet Season -  dirt roads can be difficult with mud, water and ruts. This is not such a problem at the start of the rainy season, but it can be by the end of the wet (late August - September) when the ground is waterlogged and the roads are very muddy and slippery. Riding in these conditions can be tough, especially if the roads are steep, making them very challenging and time consuming.

Inexperienced dirt riders should note that riding through the puddles, the ruts containing water or on the grassy roadsides can help clean the tyres of mud and sometimes make riding easier.

Dry Season - starting from late October - November the dirt roads dry out, first as baked hard mud, ruts and ridges; then as the dry weather and heat continue the surface breaks down with the roads becoming quite good smooth dirt for a couple of months (generally December - January).

In thick dust don't ride too close together, as you can't see anything, and the dust can quickly clog up the air filter on your bike.

Steep muddy slopes when and if you get stuck & need help (a push) from your fellow riders, remember that the last one to ride up gets to watch his mates walk up behind him.

LICENCES
Officially, driving licences, either Thai or International, are required for driving; however, in practice most rental shops do not ask for them. A licence is necessary to obtain insurance when hiring a four-wheeled vehicle.
If you drive without a licence and are involved in an accident you may automatically be the negligent party. Carry your licence with you to avoid this unnecessary complication arising.

INSURANCE
Is compulsory in Thailand although some people & vehicles may still not be covered. Comprehensive insurance is available for four wheeled vehicle drivers, but there is no satisfactory comprehensive insurance for tourists riding motorcycles. 
Motorcyclists coming to Thailand should consider taking out personal travel / accident insurance before leaving home, this is sometimes free when purchasing airline tickets and tours with certain credit cards.

Motorcycle Insurance via GT-Rider - 3rd Party Compulsory / Voluntary / Comprehensive Cover

FUEL
Fuel is relatively cheap in Thailand. Super (unleaded), currently costs around 33 baht a litre; and is normally available every 50-80 kms. The octane rating is generally 91-95octane, and in Laos around 89-92.

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