I took a 2000 km overland loop from Chiang Mai, Thailand, into Northern Laos and back to Chiang Mai, through four Laos provinces. This ride turned out to be an adventure with a comedy of errors unfolding. This meant that certain original plans for this trip had to be altered, but nonetheless, it was still an adventure! Let me take you through the stunning scenery and challenging roads of Laos, whilst I explain some of the background history of the wonderful places I visit on this ride.
My primary goal for this trip was to obtain a new Thai visa from the Thai Embassy in the Laos capital of Vientiane. (It was a rather rushed and unplanned situation, due to some issues with my previous Thai visa, which had to be canceled).
Day 1: Chiang Mai to Luang Namtha (507 km)
I set off early on the R118 main highway (to cover ground and beat the heat), taking the more scenic Phayao detour route to Chiang Khong. My aim on this day was just to get from A to B as swiftly as possible, (getting a little wet along the way).
I stopped in at Rider Coffee in Chiang Khong for a morning coffee and a catch-up with David.
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Chiang Khong / Huay Xai Immigration
The crossing at Chiang Khong Immigration went pretty smoothly. The officers were nice and helpful. It took around one hour to get through the whole process, including the Laos side. There are various booths to stop at for one check or another, plus multiple stamps needed and various fees to pay.
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Even though it wasn’t yet midday, the temperature was already rising. So, these multiple small stops of getting to one station, and then the other, can start to feel hot and bothersome in truth, especially when being conscious of time. It’s the nature of the game though, and could always be much worse. Ultimately, It is a very quiet crossing, so I shouldn’t complain. I also knew the process, having taken this crossing twice before (crossing guide here)
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Thankfully on the Laos side, there was no police extortion (there have been multiple reports of Laos police stopping riders at the border asking for a 1000 Baht (or more) fee (for not using a local guide). It is totally fabricated, (so stand your ground if it happens). I was prepared for a confrontation, however, the police just wished me good luck! I am not sure if this is because they have stopped doing this shakedown, or because they took pity on a lone female rider. Possibly the latter.)
Province #1: Luang Namtha Province
Laos Roads
The roads in Laos are notoriously rough in places. Potholes and loose gravel are a given. Sometimes landslides, also. Once the road disintegrates, repairs are a long time coming.
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Also, I recently had a windshield installed on my bike and a few times when meeting these potholes the resulting catapult had the peak of my adventure helmet colliding with it, giving me quite a jolt.
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I arrived in Luang Namtha around 4:30/5 pm, giving me ample time to clean up, get a local data sim card, and have dinner.
Luang Namtha History
The 180,000 population of Luang Namtha is made up of 39 ethnic groups, (including the Tai Lue, Ankha, and Hmong), which have inhabited the region for centuries.
Video from 2017: “Muang Sing or Bust” ride
The region was once a part of the Lan Xang Kingdom, one of the most powerful kingdoms in Southeast Asia (covering parts of Laos, Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam), which was founded in the 14th century. During the late 19th century, Luang Namtha, much like the rest of Laos, fell under French colonial rule, and the French maintained control over Laos until the mid-20th century when Laos gained its independence in 1953.
These days Luang Namtha has become a popular destination for eco-tourism, known for its natural beauty, diverse ethnic cultures, and trekking opportunities.
Luang Namtha accommodation: Thoulasith Guesthouse (400 Baht)
Facilities:
Free WiFi (although not a strong signal)
AirCon
Free water
Off-street Parking (but not undercover)
Within walking distance of the main hub.
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In truth, I wasn’t too impressed with the accommodation, despite it looking ok from the outside. Granted, I booked the cheapest accommodation they had on offer (and at just 400 Baht I ought not to complain!), but the room was dark, dingy, dusty, and smelly (which the photos below don’t really show). The water didn’t drain from the shower or sink and noise reverberated through the walls. I had pre-booked via Agoda, so I wasn’t able to make a change. It was just a place to rest my head in any case!
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Maybe the more expensive rooms are much better. The next morning when I checked the room for items I may have left, I found someone else medication. I do respect that it shouldn’t expect the Ritz of course. It is Laos, after all.
Day 2: Luang Namtha to Nong Khiaw
230 km
Another early morning start for me. Given that the daily temperature was around 37 degrees Celsius ( 98.6 Fahrenheit) and the humidity making it feel like even more, it was important not to be riding in the midday heat too much.
Road conditions on this route were much the same as before, but with some maintenance going on, which was good to see.
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Loas Roadside Villages
The roads in Laos are lined by multiple villages. These are very simple in style. Often just wooden huts on stilts or in some cases modest brick homes. Most of the villages share a communal bathroom and outside showering area.
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Diet is simple, often supplemented with caught wildlife, such as rats. Residents view you with curiosity and children wave and smile as you go by.
It is incredibly humbling when riding through these villages. Simply being born in a different country, and owning a certain passport can make a huge difference in how your life starts out.
Province #2: Oudomxay Province
Muang Xay is the bustling large capital of Oudomxay province. I made a quick stop in at Charming Lao Coffee for a (really bad) coffee (sorry, complaining again! I don’t mean it as a complaint though, just as an observation!). I also ordered a croissant to see me through the rest of the ride and then headed off again.
Province #3: Luang Prabang Province
Nong Khiaw
I arrived in Nong Khiaw around 2 pm and went looking for accommodation after a short ride around.
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Nong Khiaw History
Situated on the banks of the Nam Ou River, surrounded by towering limestone mountains, Nong Khiaw has a sleepy land-that-time-forgot feel, yet, has all the amenities any traveler would need for an enjoyable stay.
However, behind the sleepy vibe, lies a poignant historical heritage, due to the town serving as a supply route during the Indochina War. Signs are dotted around, warning not to venture too far off established routes and trails, due to unexploded bombs (a sad aspect of Laos History. Look up, “The Secret War” for more info regarding this).
If you visit the historic Pathet Lao Caves, you will be offered a glimpse into the region’s turbulent past, for over 20,000 Lao people hid in these caves for a span of 9 years whilst bombs rained down around them. Hard to fathom, when you see how quiet and tranquil the town is these days.
Scooters can be rented for exploring the region. Buses are also available to take you to and from other major towns in Laos (although, expect a bumpy ride!), or book a slow boat ride from Luang Prabang.
For motorcycle riders, there are stunning trails, with a popular one being the route to the Lao Loum ethnic village of Muang Ngoy.
Nong Khiaw Accommodation 1: Khamphan Guesthouse Riverview (400 Baht)
Facilities:
Free WiFi (great signal)
AirCon
Free water
Secure parking (including undercover parking)
Within walking distance of the main hub.
Finding this accommodation was a real stroke of luck. I did not pre-book any accommodation in Nong Khiaw, and the place I had originally spotted on Google Maps was fully booked. I rode down the town’s main road and stopped at a random entranceway to ask if accommodation was available. I was told yes. Lucky me!
It honestly looked like NOTHING from the outside and I was expecting it to just be a place to rest my head for one day and night. I did not expect it to have great secure parking and open out into a place by the riverfront. (The only negative was that construction work was going on behind the riverfront building. However, it wasn’t overly noisy). When I checked the room I was stoked at how stunning the view was.
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After checking in I cleaned up and took a moment to enjoy the view. It was perfect timing because the heavens opened up not long after, so I escaped getting soaked. I had an important online meeting I had to attend that afternoon, and luckily the internet was nice and strong. After the meeting, I headed out for a walk around the town and ordered a fantastic dinner at Coco Home Bar & Restaurant, where my eyes were bigger than my belly!
I went to bed early as I had planned a super early rise, in order to take on a one-hour mountain hike, to watch the sunrise over Nong Khiaw. However, during the night my stomach began giving me some major issues….
Important note! I am not blaming the wonderful Coco Home Bar & Restaurant for my stomach issue. It is very easy to get some kind of problem simply from ice cubes or contaminated water, etc. It could have very easily come from a number of different sources.
Day 3: Rest Day in Nong Khiaw
I awoke at 5 am to the sound of my alarm. Having slept very little and with my stomach still giving me issues, I decided to forgo the viewpoint hike and just remain in bed. Although frustrated at feeling unwell, I did very much enjoy the beautiful scene unfolding from my window, as the sun slowly began to rise.At around 8 am I decided to ride out for a small explore in the area. Seeing as it had been raining, I stuck to simple trails and rode around the river embankment area.
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Once I returned to the guesthouse, I noticed that construction work had started up and was a bit on the noisy side. So, I contacted the other accommodation that I had initially considered and booked a room there.
Nong Khiaw Accommodation 2: Ou RiverHouse (700 Baht)
Facilities:
Free WiFi (spotty reception)
Fan-Only
Free water, tea, coffee & bananas
Restaurant on site
0ff-street parking (not covered)
This interesting accommodation required a short but steep walk down to the riverfront from the initial car-parking area.
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I was pretty eager to get in the river and so I dumped my stuff, got changed, and jumped in. Fabulously refreshing! I ordered food from reception, chilled out, and took a nap.
A little while later I decided to head out again, so I walked up back to the car park area and main entrance.
I could hardly believe my eyes when I noticed, with horror, that my bag bikes had been pulled apart and ransacked. There was nothing so very important in the bags, but it was still a shock as it is the first time I have ever experienced something like this in Laos. This kind of thing really isn’t a common event. I was actually thinking maybe another foreigner/tourist might have done it, especially given that Nong Khiaw is such a small town and community
The car park area was within the private grounds of the guesthouse owner and his home is next to the gated car park, but apparently, no one had been at home earlier. I asked the owner to call the local police so I could make a report and hopefully find out who had done it.
Watch the full video for this ride on YouTube
Anyway, to cut a long story short, it turned out that a local young boy had done it. Ironically he was also the policeman’s son! Apparently, he just went through all the bags but didn’t keep any of the items. Instead, he just threw them in bushes in various places outside.
The items were no longer in the original places he threw them, though, so now we had the task of finding out who picked up the items and took them. The commotion caused a bit of local buzz and curious kids came to ask what happened.
One kid I spoke to couldn’t look me in the eye and his body language indicated that he wasn’t being completely truthful. I decided to speak kindly to him, telling him that the items are really important to me and that I need them for my trip. A short while later he turned up on a bike, with my electric pump in his hand.
The other items were found either on the ground or turned up one way or another, and in the end, I gave some money for all the kids (even the naughty ones) to all buy treats. I wanted it to be a lesson, but also to demonstrate that honesty still pays in the end.
The original little boy began crying and I felt really quite sad. I rubbed his back and told him that what he did was naughty but it is ok now and just not to do it again. Hopefully, they will remember this day. I certainly will.
One rather embarrassing factor about this whole thing is that I had made up some “Motogirl in Thailand” stickers. I found out that the kids had run around the town sticking them up in various places. So, if ever you see a random MotoGirl in Thailand sticker in Nong Khiaw town, just know this, it wasn’t me!
With a bit of a heavy heart, combined with relief and tiredness, I decided to head off to bed. It was going to be another early morning for me.
Day 4: Nong Khiaw to Luang Prabang
170 km
I set off feeling a bit out of sorts and mulling over the events of the previous evening. I scolded myself that I should snap out of it and I eventually did. Originally I had planned to ride to Phonsavan, but due to feeling unwell, I made the decision to ride the shorter distance to Luang Prabang instead.
There had been no rain so I was able to take advantage of a few fantastic scenic trails. It was really nice to get off the pot-hole bumpy roads as I made my way to the old capital of Luang Prabang.
Luang Prabang History
Luang Prabang is famous for its rich history, stunning natural beauty, and well-preserved Buddhist temples.
The city is the former Royal capital of the country and boasts an eclectic mix of Laos traditional architecture and French colonial style. In 1995, UNESCO designated the city as a world heritage site.
The Mekong River runs alongside Luang Prabang, which is one of the longest rivers in Southeast Asia. Traditional slow boat rides embark to and from Luang Prabang, which is a popular way to experience the region, due to the breathtaking views.
The night market offers a vibrant taste of local life, selling handicrafts, textiles, clothing, jewelry, and local artwork.
One major attraction is the stunning Kuang Si Waterfall, which features multiple tiers of cascading turquoise pools.
My previous trip to Laos has more in-depth details on Khuang Si Falls: Laos Solo Adventure
images from my trip in 2018
Luang Prabang Accommodation: Villa KiengKham (700 Baht)
Facilities:
Free WiFI (strong connection)
Air-Con
Water
Fridge
Secure parking (not covered)
I had no accommodation booked in Luang Prabang and decided I would just wing it. I went riding around for a while, on the lookout for a hotel with secure parking. Finally, I spotted one place that looked like it had parking leading out the back of the hotel. The receptionist was so lovely, that I knew this was the place I wanted to stay.
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The parking was really secure, which put my mind at rest, and the owner kindly let me use the hose to wash down my bike and check it over.
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Upon checking my bike I noticed the brake fluid was low. I had the brake pads changed before my trip, but seems the fluid wasn’t topped up, (not sure how I missed that when I checked over my bike prior to leaving!). I had tightened all the screws on my bike, but Laos roads had wriggled out a screw on my pannier frame, and heat from the exhaust had burned through my bike plastics, where the pannier bags were mounted.
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The stomach issue persisted and was pretty concerning, so much of my time in Luang Prabang was enjoying the delightful view of my hotel bathroom…
Day 5: Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng
230 km
This day turned out to be a bone-rattling ride. The main R13 route to Vang Vieng quickly turned into a real mess.
Broken up, tons of big bustling trucks, dust, and heat. Not for the faint-hearted!
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I had an incident with one truck that was on my side of the road. The road dipped down unexpectedly, and so when I slowed to stop, due to another truck coming at me, my bike leaned over too far, and gravity won (my legs just aren’t quite long enough – something that tall riders don’t need to worry about!). I couldn’t propel the bike back up with my leg due to the dip in the road (hard to tell from the photo), so I had to lay the bike down. I jumped off my bike, ran to the side, and frantically waved at the oncoming truck to stop.
The force of the drop completely ripped the top box base of my bike and bent my front brake lever. I managed to get my bike up and out of danger, but fixing the top box was going to be an issue. Thankfully I was able to secure the top box to my bike using a Rok Strap, bungee, and cable ties. Always a good idea to carry stuff like this!
I got back on my bike and made my way slowly to the next town, where I was hoping I would find a local garage to sort out the top box base properly. Thankfully, I found one.
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The young couple who owned the rural garage were so kind and welcoming. Their daughter gave me lots of cold water and they offered me Jackfruit. When I came to pay, the owner didn’t want to charge me! I was so touched but also couldn’t accept the kind offer, so insisted on giving something. It really helped lift my mood after the fall!
I headed off feeling happy and had some fun interactions with a local petrol station attendant and some cute Lao kids. (Watch the YouTube video for this fun interaction)
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Province #4: Vientiane Province
Vang Vieng History
Vang Vieng is situated along the Nam Song River and has gained popularity over the years as a tourist destination and backpacker hangout.
The Mon Khmer people were the earliest known inhabitants who cultivated rice and practiced fishing.
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enjoyed the town’s stunning natural landscapes and adventure activities, such as tubing along the Nam Song River and exploring the surrounding caves and waterfalls. This put Vang Vieng firmly on the tourist destination map and today visitors continue to visit from all around the world.
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Vang Vieng Accommodation: Lao Valhalla Bungalows & Restaurant (700 Baht)
Facilities:
Free WiFi (pretty much unusable and phone data reception spotty)
Fan-Only
Free Water
Restaurant on-site
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Nighttime was peaceful at the resort and I slept ok, despite multiple bathroom visits!
Day 6: Vang Vieng to Vientiane
130 km
I woke up early and set out for a ride around the karst mountains of Vang Vieng, with a plan to hike up an iconic trail with a fixed motorcycle tourist attraction at the top. However, when I arrived at the base of the viewpoint and went to grab my camera bag out of my top box, I realised that I had left the bag behind at the resort…
Feeling deflated, I rode back to get my camera bag, (somehow forgetting a motorcycle glove on the way! I even rode back to try to find the glove, but it evaporated into the great unknown!) Feeling rough and rather sorry for myself I caved. I made the decision that self-care will be my priority and that all my previous plans just need to go out the window until my next visit to Laos.
So, I packed up and headed to the local bakery, praying my stomach would hold out after eating.
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I rode on towards Vientiane, forgetting that they have now closed off the highway for motorbikes. Seems pretty silly, considering my bike can outride most of the vehicles in Laos. The problem is that Laos motorbikes are usually scooters or old run-down small cc bikes and they are all classed into one big bracket. So, doesn’t matter if you are on a 115cc bike or a Superbike, it is all the same and a no-go on the highway.
I took the long and bumpy way around to the capital.
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On this entire ride, there was evidence of the newly built US$6 billion Lao-China high-speed train dotted about. Chinese construction is everywhere in Laos in fact, and they also have a frightening amount of control over the Mekong dams. I had thoughts of how Laos is now firmly in China’s grip.
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Thankfully I had already found a good hotel online that I had pre-booked via Agoda. After first stopping in at a city coffee shop for a quick refreshment, I made my way to the hotel. I was pleased with my choice.
Vientiane Accommodation: Douangchan Plaza Hotel (600 Baht)
Facilities:
Free WiFi (stable connection)
AirCon
Water
Fridge
Secure parking (not covered)
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My priority for the city accommodation was secure parking and a decent location. I didn’t check any other details. So, imagine my delight when I realised my hotel room had a bath! I was pleased as punch! Felt great to have a soak after several days of bumpy riding, soothing away the aches, pains, and bruises!
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Day 7-9: Remained in Vientiane
My main purpose for this trip was to apply for a new Thailand visa at the Thai Embassy in Vientiane. So, most of my time in the capital was spent waiting for everything to process.
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I didn’t visit Xieng Khuan Buddha Park this time but have visited it on a few occasions. You can read about this in my previous trip report.
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Day 9-10: Return to Chiang Mai
720 km total
My original plan for this trip was to continue riding in Laos after collecting my passport and visa. I planned to ride north from Vientiane, and out at the remote border point at Muang Ngeun, (you can exit this border point from Laos, but not enter). However, given my health situation (plus various other upcoming commitments), I just wanted to get back to Chiang Mai.
So, after collecting my passport from the Thai Embassy, on the last day, in the afternoon, I exited from Vientiane and made my way directly to Chiang Mai.
As an aside, n my last visit to Vientiane in 2018, I did the rather crazy thing of riding over 700 km in the pitch black (partially in a thunderstorm and also, partially through a dirt track that Google Maps wrongly took me down), directly to Chiang Mai. (It gets dark around 6 pm in Thailand/Laos, for those who do not know). This was additionally tricky because I didn’t have any decent lights on my bike, so it was like riding by candlelight. I had to rely upon the occasional vehicle passing, in order to latch on and follow them using their headlights to help me see.
This time I made the wise choice of stopping once it got too dark and precarious. I spotted a 24-hour motel sign and checked in for the night.
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Overnight Accommodation in Thailand: Sabaidee 2 Resort Dan Sai (400 Baht)
I was really happy with this motel. It was just off the main highway but down a long driveway, meaning traffic noise pretty much disappeared. It was clean and comfortable. They also had a restaurant, but I arrived after the kitchen had closed. A menu was in the room and the food looked pretty good.
I slept like the dead!
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Later on, I took stock of the damage to my bike and my boots. I will be posting up some details about my damaged Forma boots and other tech-related content on my YouTube soon. So, if you haven’t yet subscribed, get on it now! MotoGirl in Thailand
Eventually, after some pretty serious antibiotics, my stomach issue eased up, but wow, it was chronic! Looking back, I have no idea how I kept going!
Hope you enjoyed this trip report.
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