According to government figures there has been a 35% increase in traffic accidents in Cambodia between August 2008 and August 2009. I toured the whole country in Spring 2008 and although on some roads the traffic was pretty bad, it was still a fun ride. Good roads after all those years of mud and dust. Having just done a loop round both sides of the Tonle sap, I can believe the government figures. There is simply a lot more traffic and the driving is as murderous and suicidal as ever. It was horrible. I abandoned the trip and drove back to Thailand from Siem Reap abandoning the idea of driving to Kampot etc in the south which is, in many ways, the most scenic part of the country. I flew back, took a bus and then hired a Baja to do the small roads around Kep and Kampot…. Touring in Cambodia is now a fraught business. Thailand can be bad (ironically the Aran road is terrible on a Sunday), but there is usually a way to avoid the beasts (barring Highway 12 from Phitsanulok to Lomsak). In Cambodia the 4WDs zip down the highway at 150kph, the trucks pull out regardless… And you are on the verge…. And the roads are still narrow. It is a dangerous formula. If you go, drive slowly and be prepared to leap.