I am on an extended layover in Phnom Penh, Cambodia while on a motorbike trip solo from Chiang Mai, Thailand that has taken me here via Poipet on my owned Honda CBR250R for which I carry the original ownership papers called the Green Book in Thailand. Some of what I experienced proved some of the forum postings I had read on this forum were erroneous and/or incomplete or out of date.
In Phetchabun, Thailand , somebody stole my license plate complete with my Chiang Mai tax certificate and a special holder for it. They were unable to remove the retainer bolts with whatever they tried to use, so bent the whole holder to and fro until it broke away. I went twice (the second time with a Thai that sure he could get them to issue a new plate) to the Transport office in Phetchabun to see what they could do for me - nothing. I asked a traffic cop who told me never mind, no worries!* But I did worry about the entry & exit of my bike to and from Cambodia. Big headache for me!! I called my visa agent in Chiang Mai who helped me with obtaining an International Drivers License as was required by my Cambodian bike insurer, Asia Insurance Cambodia, who insisted that my permanent Thai Drivers Licenses (I have 5 year permanent for both bike & car) were not legal in Cambodia by the Transport Department laws. He suggested I go to the Police Department to report the theft again (I had gone once on my own and police headquarters sent me off on my way) and insist on a police report which I did and returned for a third time to the Transport Office armed with it and the insistence of a kindly sergeant major in the traffic department that they could in fact, issue me a new plate. They were steadfast in their refusal saying I would have to return to Chiang Mai for a new plate.* Since I was half way to the border with no fixed route or schedule, I carried on to Poipet taking my chances.
I had a lengthy delay at the Thai side of the border where I was told by several officers I could not take my bike out of Thailand without a plate on it, despite my presenting the ownership in my name several times. They also insisted I leave my heavily packed bike to go into the Thai customs building to process my departure. Finally, I wore them out saying that they were keeping an old man (I am 62 years old) in the heat for long time. The officer in charge at the crossing finally relented and had his officers do the exit papers for my bike of which I got a copy and my depature card.
Big problems at Cambodia side of border about my motorbike.* Again, I was told to leave my motorbike unattended so as to enter the building to get my evisa stamped but again, persistence prevailed. I got past everything including border customs who issued an entry permit for my after initially refusing because of the missing plate but I argued that with the police report, the ownership papers and the Thai Customs exit permit that they should have no concerns about my motorbike. Finally, they relent and I am free to go and enter city looking for customs office so I can get letter saying my bike has no license number plate so it OK to take it back out of Cambodia when trip finished. I enter the secure parking lot and go into the customs building to find the officer responsible for such things. They say they will not let me remove my bike from the compound to take it into Cambodia.* They say there is a "New rule" you need a letter from Tourism Department in Phnom Penh granting permission for the entry of a personal vehicle which then has to come to the Poipet office to be stamped. I was told it would take one week or more and I would have to wait. I am to return to their office the next day to find out more in the morning. I want to call my Asia Insurance lady in Phnom Penh from their office but my mobile phone stopped working once I entered Cambodia (I had a Smart SIMM card another story). The very kind customs officer called her on his personal mobile for me several times that afternoon while I sat in the office for hours. She made tremendous efforts to get information/resolution for me. Finally, it was agreed that based on my promise not to leave the city, they would let me take my motorbike with me. They assigned someone to escort me to a hotel and seee to it that I was OK. Not a very good day, but a big adventure from it too. The next two days passed with my appearance at the office. I was shown the fax directive from Phnom Penh and the officer translated the jist of it to me as it was in Khmer. I noted and pointed out that the "new policy" was actually dated December, 2012. In the end, after much discussion between my Insurance Rep, the officer and the Tourism Department it was resolved that the intent of the policy was to address convoys of vehicles not single, personally owned vehicles. So I was free to go with my bike but without my requested letter about my license plate and with a warning that should I have any problem with police or customs thereafter, they were not responsible.
I want to make it very clear that throughout all of this on either side of the border, I was treated with the utmost of courtesy and respect. I made no payment of any kind to anybody and there was no request for any such thing. I do not post this story to complain in any way, except perhaps as to the effectiveness of internal communication of some agencies but no worse than my home country where I would have been treated with far less respect, but want to alert those that may follow in the future to potential difficulties. I was on no schedule or itinerary so was able to take the delays in stride, where others may not have the latitude.
I will post again when the time comes that I leave Cambodia should I encounter any issues. But for now my suggestions:
1) make sure you have your visa in hand before hitting the border and if there is a possibility of reentry or staying more than 60 days, it is IMPORTANT that you get a business visa (e for economic visa) as they can be extended from inside Cambodia
2) make sure you are equipped with high quality dust masks and tight fitting sunglasses/visor because you will not believe the fine mortar like dust on the hundreds of kilometres of roads under endless construction
3) have electronic copies of all documents, photos of your vehicle and baggage on a USB stick organizes for easy retrieval with a printed copy in your baggage
4) quality locks to lock up your vehicle
In Phetchabun, Thailand , somebody stole my license plate complete with my Chiang Mai tax certificate and a special holder for it. They were unable to remove the retainer bolts with whatever they tried to use, so bent the whole holder to and fro until it broke away. I went twice (the second time with a Thai that sure he could get them to issue a new plate) to the Transport office in Phetchabun to see what they could do for me - nothing. I asked a traffic cop who told me never mind, no worries!* But I did worry about the entry & exit of my bike to and from Cambodia. Big headache for me!! I called my visa agent in Chiang Mai who helped me with obtaining an International Drivers License as was required by my Cambodian bike insurer, Asia Insurance Cambodia, who insisted that my permanent Thai Drivers Licenses (I have 5 year permanent for both bike & car) were not legal in Cambodia by the Transport Department laws. He suggested I go to the Police Department to report the theft again (I had gone once on my own and police headquarters sent me off on my way) and insist on a police report which I did and returned for a third time to the Transport Office armed with it and the insistence of a kindly sergeant major in the traffic department that they could in fact, issue me a new plate. They were steadfast in their refusal saying I would have to return to Chiang Mai for a new plate.* Since I was half way to the border with no fixed route or schedule, I carried on to Poipet taking my chances.
I had a lengthy delay at the Thai side of the border where I was told by several officers I could not take my bike out of Thailand without a plate on it, despite my presenting the ownership in my name several times. They also insisted I leave my heavily packed bike to go into the Thai customs building to process my departure. Finally, I wore them out saying that they were keeping an old man (I am 62 years old) in the heat for long time. The officer in charge at the crossing finally relented and had his officers do the exit papers for my bike of which I got a copy and my depature card.
Big problems at Cambodia side of border about my motorbike.* Again, I was told to leave my motorbike unattended so as to enter the building to get my evisa stamped but again, persistence prevailed. I got past everything including border customs who issued an entry permit for my after initially refusing because of the missing plate but I argued that with the police report, the ownership papers and the Thai Customs exit permit that they should have no concerns about my motorbike. Finally, they relent and I am free to go and enter city looking for customs office so I can get letter saying my bike has no license number plate so it OK to take it back out of Cambodia when trip finished. I enter the secure parking lot and go into the customs building to find the officer responsible for such things. They say they will not let me remove my bike from the compound to take it into Cambodia.* They say there is a "New rule" you need a letter from Tourism Department in Phnom Penh granting permission for the entry of a personal vehicle which then has to come to the Poipet office to be stamped. I was told it would take one week or more and I would have to wait. I am to return to their office the next day to find out more in the morning. I want to call my Asia Insurance lady in Phnom Penh from their office but my mobile phone stopped working once I entered Cambodia (I had a Smart SIMM card another story). The very kind customs officer called her on his personal mobile for me several times that afternoon while I sat in the office for hours. She made tremendous efforts to get information/resolution for me. Finally, it was agreed that based on my promise not to leave the city, they would let me take my motorbike with me. They assigned someone to escort me to a hotel and seee to it that I was OK. Not a very good day, but a big adventure from it too. The next two days passed with my appearance at the office. I was shown the fax directive from Phnom Penh and the officer translated the jist of it to me as it was in Khmer. I noted and pointed out that the "new policy" was actually dated December, 2012. In the end, after much discussion between my Insurance Rep, the officer and the Tourism Department it was resolved that the intent of the policy was to address convoys of vehicles not single, personally owned vehicles. So I was free to go with my bike but without my requested letter about my license plate and with a warning that should I have any problem with police or customs thereafter, they were not responsible.
I want to make it very clear that throughout all of this on either side of the border, I was treated with the utmost of courtesy and respect. I made no payment of any kind to anybody and there was no request for any such thing. I do not post this story to complain in any way, except perhaps as to the effectiveness of internal communication of some agencies but no worse than my home country where I would have been treated with far less respect, but want to alert those that may follow in the future to potential difficulties. I was on no schedule or itinerary so was able to take the delays in stride, where others may not have the latitude.
I will post again when the time comes that I leave Cambodia should I encounter any issues. But for now my suggestions:
1) make sure you have your visa in hand before hitting the border and if there is a possibility of reentry or staying more than 60 days, it is IMPORTANT that you get a business visa (e for economic visa) as they can be extended from inside Cambodia
2) make sure you are equipped with high quality dust masks and tight fitting sunglasses/visor because you will not believe the fine mortar like dust on the hundreds of kilometres of roads under endless construction
3) have electronic copies of all documents, photos of your vehicle and baggage on a USB stick organizes for easy retrieval with a printed copy in your baggage
4) quality locks to lock up your vehicle