There is a beautiful track around the NE end of Chiang Saen lake. Then it was over to the Huay Gwan Memorial. Turn off the 1129 from Chiang Saen to Chiang Khong, at Ko Pa Kham onto the 4037. A few miles in, just past Pha Tung village, you come to the left turn off to the Pa Lat waterfall and on to the Huay Gwan Memorial (concrete road all the way now). The sign above points to Mae Aeb, over the hill a few more miles on the 4037. It's an ethnic Chinese hilltribe village that was connected with the communist insurrection in the 70's. A mile or so down the left turn-off, you come to the Pa Lat waterfall which is looking superb at this time of year. 300m past the waterfall and the meditation temple of Pa Lat, is a set of steps that had intrigued me for a while. I could read enough to see "Boran Satahn", or "ancient place". Left all the riding kit on the bike and took a hike.. After about 300m I reached an old crumbled stupa on the top of the hill. Not much to see, but clearly venerated. It appeared much younger than the old ruined temples of Chiang Saen, but of indeterminate age. How enigmatic though... Just past the old stupa was a monk's retreat, hidden in the forest. After walking down the hill and continuing on, took a little turn off into the forest, from the concrete Huay Gwan road. Just beautiful in there and no-one around. Realised this was the dirt road up the hill, to the monk's retreat. That's why the steps up were poor repair. This is near to the Huay Gwan reservoir (not on the map..) and views across to the Khong, Bahn Saeo area. Rode into the Yao village of Huay Gwan just before the rain and had a good chat with a young lad in a small shop. But he was too young to have been around when the infamous ambush and murders took place. The Huay Gwan Memorial, what a story!. It's all on the GTR forum. After a short rainstorm, the sun came out so, off again and onto the dirt roads heading north for some fun. The aqueduct was in full flow after the rain. There is another trail turns off near here, to another lovely waterfall (not on maps) but I knew it would be extremely deep mud, so that can wait.... Took a ride up to a new stupa on a hill near Bahn Rai, where the trail comes back out to the main road. Great views looking north. This is looking NE towards the 1129 mountain pass at Kiu Khan. I heard the other day that the road widening on the 1129 has started again, from the Chiang Khong end now. Finished the day with a private dip in the waterfall (also not on maps) between Bahn Rai and the Teachers's Tea shop just before the pass.