The Balkans, late 2015 on my old XT600E (Arrunya)

[Wayne66]

I had flown back to the UK from Thailand to sort some stuff out and this trip had been planned for a while. So whilst I was there I went on a quick 50 odd day trip in to the Balkans, great people, wonderful scenery, awesome things to see and a few mishaps. So I thought I would share it with you.
Enjoy the ride out

The main reason I wanted to go to the Balkans was to revisit Bosnia. I was there in '93' with the UN and I wanted to see the changes, plus it's a beautiful country.


Day 1 Balkans Trip

Set off from my home town and ride to Hull ready to catch the ferry to Zeebrugge, Not a long journey, its about 27 miles. Due it being an evening sailing I did not have to set off too early. I got fed and watered before I set off. I also have a breakfast booked on the boat so I have a good feed in me before my ride to Dusseldorf to catch the Motorail to Vienna.
After giving OBB grief on my first post I eventully got a email from them this morning apologising for the late reply, anyway to cut a long story short I booked over the phone and paid 174 Euro (£129) for a single journey from Dusseldorf to Vienna. Thats for me in a 4 bunk shared compartment and Arrunya on the flatbed. Hope she will be ok. I am more bothered about my kit coming off?!

The bike is quite heavy and I do not even have a full tank yet. Also the front end is quite light. Maybe a full tank of fuel will sort that? I will be glad when I get my new tyres on in Slovenia then that will lower my Ortlieb bag down a bit and I can also bring it a bit further forward.

Setting off, courtesy of my mother

The start mileage

Waiting to check in

Waiting to board

The Room, hope I don't have to share!

Thats all for now, catch you all in Europe

Wayne

Oh yeah and I forgot to add...I have spilt coffee down the front of my Grey 2014 Donington HUBB meeting t-shirt and I don't exactly have the biggest wardrobe of clothes with me, great start and we have not even set sail yet

Wayne

 

[Wayne66]

Day 2 Balkans Trip

Well what a day. It started out with a big boys breakfast, full fry up, fruit, tea, fruit juice. Just what I needed to get me through the day. Getting off the Ferry was ok.

Leaving Hull

Waiting to Disembark

SatNav set and I was off on the Autobahn towards Dusseldorf. The weather was cloudy but there was no rain. Little did I know that 50 miles down the road the heavens were to open, haha, the first leg in mainland Europe and I am getting drenched. Oh well it was a good time to check out my gear. So I stopped at the nearest petrol station, filled up Arrunya with some much need juice and put on my wet weather gear comprising of an all in one rubber romper suit and some gortex military issue over mittens. It was put through its paces for the next 100 miles….and it worked a treat, so now I know I can stay dry…..bonus

However the ride was not very comfortable due to having the tyres on the bike, there was no room to move about on the seat. Not the best idea I had for this trip.

 

[Wayne66]

When I got to Dusseldorf I found the Hauptbahnhof ( train station), once I was happy with that I went on to find the motorcycle shop where I wanted to go and look at one of the Enduristan tank bags. Whilst I was there I sweet talked them in to putting my new tyres on. They said no at first as they only fit tyres which they order in. But I was buying the tank bag on the proviso they fitted the tyres. Job done….tyres fitted, new tank bag on and more room on the bike.
I ended up buying the 3S

Getting the new tyres

Then it was back to the station, when I got there, which was at around 1715hrs I went to the information desk, they were helpful to the extent they told me where to go on a map and that I had to be there for between 1800 and 1900hrs. Great, that meant that I had time for some food and a coffee, so currywurst and a slice of pizza with a coffee it was to be. Very good indeed.

At the station, spot the coffee and pizza

 

[Wayne66]

Then the fun began, OBB (the Austrian Train Company) do not have an office in the Train Station so you have to deal with DB to find out what is going on. The information desk told me where to go and what time to be there so off I went. I got to where they told me to be, no one there, so I hung around till till about 1915hrs then rode back to the Main part of the station. There is a information button to press so you can speak to someone which is situated at the DB Auto Hug, (where they load the vehicles) so I kept ringing and the bloke on the other end kept hanging up on me as he spoke no English and my German is a bit rusty, he just was not interested in helping me at all. So back at the main station, i went back to the information desk and they had changed shift, haha just my luck, the bloke they was not interested apart from telling me where I should be, which was where i had just come from. At this moment in time I was starting to have a sense of humour failure, all I wanted was a bit of help and no one gave a toss.
So I went back outside and thankfully there were a couple of DB security guards stood outside talking, so i ask them if they could help me, with my bit of German and his bit of English he got me sorted out.
Time for another coffee before going back round to the Auto Hug. When I got round there it was about 2015hrs and there was someone there this time. Got the bike on the train and found my carriage. It took me two trips to get all my stuff of the bike and in to my compartment. I had to take everything off except my panniers.
But anyway all is sorted and I am on the train on my way to Austria as I was typing this. There is no restaurant car but you can get tea and coffee. But on the plus side I have got my compartment to myself
Its been a long wet and wind swept day but all in all a good one. Time for a drink, a sleep then wake up in Austria.

Waiting to board the train

My compartment

Wayne

 

[Wayne66]

Day 3 Balkans Trip

Vienna to Maribor

I got off the train for about 0815hrs and re packed the bike after lugging all my stuff off the train. Then I was on the road. First stop was to get some fuel and a coffee before I started the 150 odd mile ride to Maribor in Slovenia.
Had a bit of fun at the petrol station.

I laid the bike down, I filled up with fuel and parked it up outside the shop/cafe bit of the petrol station whilst I went in for a coffee. When I started to move my bike back (i wasn’t sat on it) I slipped on the petrol/diesel on the ground and slid away from the bike, so Arrunya was lying down…I know, no photos, it didn’t happen…all I will say is that it was heavy picking it up again. Good start to a wet day

 

[Wayne66]

It was a very wet day, it bleeding rained all the way there, thankfully my kit held out. What I will say at this point is that the Forma Adventure Boots are great, dry feet all the way. Although it was raining the riding was good, I have the Montana set to avoid Motorways/Autobahns so I pretty much takes me the back roads. It may in some cases be a bit longer or slower but far more enjoyable. I stopped in Wiener Neustadt at got a few photos but today has just been riding as its a PITA to take your kit on and off in the wet.
Although there was not a lot to see due to low cloud or mist the riding was still good. Even though it was raining it wasn’t cold.

Even the Police Building has some nice architecture

 

[Wayne66]

I got to Maribor at about 1500hrs and my kit was soaked. I, by chance, found the Information desk in the middle of town and asked for a hotel, mainly to dry my kit out over night. So I was pointed in the direction of the place where I am now…The Orel Hotel/UNI Hostel. Off I went in the direction given, ended up riding through and round and round the pedestrian only zone of the shopping area, I was getting some funny looks but I couldn’t find the place. This old bloke stepped out in front of me and asked me where I was going (well I guess that what he had said) so I pointed to the map and he pointed me in the right direction. Eventually got there.

Maribor - Wikipedia

My room at the moment looks like a laundry shop with clothes all over the place drying out, ready to get wet again tomorrow, no doubt!

The room is good and they have a big garage with parking for about 20 vehicles so Arrunya is tucked up safe and dry.

The Orel Hotel, Maribor, Slovenia, N46.56003° E15.64767°

Some views around the town when I went out for some food.

I found a nice place for some food and they brew their own beer, dark, lager and green!

The Green Beer

Hopefully heading further into Slovenia tomorrow, off to try and meet up with Mito

Wayne

 

[Wayne66]

Day 4 Balkans Trip

Maribor to Nova Gorica, Still in Slovenia and it’s still raining. But I managed to catch a bit of sun today and could even take my all in one Romper Suit off in the later stages of the ride.

When I left Maribor I decided to take the back roads, but they were still very wet as the rain had just stopped so I was taking the sharp bends very carefully and was not enjoying it very much ( I am still a bit dubious after my off on diesel in Laos) So I went on to the Motorway for a bit and I was glad i did because I had yet another down pour. Once passed the capital city I got back on the back roads which were dry and made for good riding.

But the further I traveled towards Nova Gorica the better the weather became and eventually the sun came out again. This time it stays out and I could take off my waterproof outer and air off my bike gear.

 

[Wayne66]

When I got to Nova Gorica I got in touch with Mito who had kindly offered to put me up for a bit and take me out for the day tomorrow. So I sat and had a coffee while i waited for him.

Nova Gorica - Wikipedia

Once Mito turned up we went and had some food before going to his home.

Tomorrow we go and visit some great places which are where I had plotted to go in the planning stage of this trip, looking forward to it

Wayne

 

[Wayne66]

Day 5 Balkans Trip

Well what a great day, Mito and I did a big loop in Northern Slovenia and there weather was very good all day.

Day 5 Local area to Nova Gorica

Firstly a big thanks to Mito for giving me a guided tour and for putting me up (or was that putting up with me?)

When we set off we followed the River Soca north from Nova Gorica we were heading towards Lake Bohinisko, the roads were great and we climbed and dropped a few times before we got there. The advantage with going with Mito was that we took small roads and tracks which I would never have been on had I just being following my GPS. Once at the lake we stopped and had a coffee along side the lake.

Mito on his TT600

Getting higher and higher

Lake Bohinj - Wikipedia

 

[Wayne66]

Next up was the ride to Lake Bled, in the middle of the lake is an Island with a church on it, also in the background on a hill was a castle. A very picturesque place to visit. Again we stopped for a coffee and come special cake which is native to Bled, it is a Creme Slice and very tasty.

Lake Bled - Wikipedia

Bled

Creme Slice, delicious

 

[Wayne66]

From there we headed to the Vrsic Pass and at the top you had a great view of the Triglav, the highest Mountain in Slovenia. What a view and what a road, it was really good, the Mountain looked spectacular covered in snow.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vršič_Pass

 

[Wayne66]

Once we got to the top it was the good ride down the other side to visit Kluze Fortress which is steeped in history.

The Kluže Fortress is a fort near the town of Bovec in northwestern Slovenia.
The fortress was built in 1472 near Bovec on the road between Cave del Predil and Carinthia. It likely original purpose was defence of Friuliagainst the Turks. In the course of the 16th century Bovec came under Austrian authority as a result of the wars between Venice and the Habsburgs. However, for the time being it remained as an ecclesiastical dependence of Ciudad and Aquileia. At the end of the 18th century it was entirely under Austria's administration, and remained so until 1918. In 1796 and 1797 fighting took place around the fort, as Napoleon's army pushed through the Koritnica gorge.

In 1903 part of Bovec was destroyed by a fire. What remained standing, was ravaged in World War I, when the Italian-Austrian front (Battles of the Isonzo) crossed through the valley as the battle cut from north to south.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kluže_Fortress

 

[Wayne66]

Once we left there we went to a little village near Kobarid and stopped at a restaurant, I had Jota Klobasa, which is cabbage and potatoe soup with sausage, very tasty indeed. Then for dessert we had another local food, Kobariski Strukelj, which was extremely tasty.

Kobariški štruklji | Traditional Dumplings From Kobarid | TasteAtlas

 

[Wayne66]

We then rode back towards Nova Gorica but Mito had a nice surprise for me, instead of following the valley we went over the top and most of it was unpaved roads and tracks, Arrunya coped very well and it was really good to be up on the pegs working the bike, it is the first time I have done a great distance off a paved road and it went well. The Heidenau tyres did there job.

Wayne

 

[Wayne66]

Day 6 Balkans Trip

I went out a short ride on my own today, I wanted to visit a couple of places before moving on tomorrow.

Before I continue I want to say a massive thanks to Mito and his family for making me feel welcome at his home. While I have been there I have not wanted for anything.
Whilst I was out riding he even gave up his free time and made me a bracket to fix on my bike to put my Go Pro on. The sticky pad had come off and was not re-sticking. What a guy

Day 6 Local area to Nova Gorica

First off was a visit to the Predjamski Grad Castle, N45.81589 E14.12696, the link to Wiki if anyone is interested

Predjama Castle - Wikipedia

It was a good sight to see although I didn’t go in as I was also going to the caves at Postojna for 1400hrs to try and get on the tour.

 

[Wayne66]

When I got the caves N45.77968 E14.20580 I was to be bit disappointed, I could not get in on the 1400hrs tour as it was all full with bus loads of Chinese and Japanese Tourists. The next available slot was at 1600hrs and with it taking about 2 hours to do I didn’t bother as it was starting to cloud over and by the time I came out it would be getting dark. So I sat and chilled with a tea for a bit

Postojna Cave - Wikipedia

 

[Wayne66]

On the way back my GPS took me back on the same road I came in on. Ummmm not good, so I just took a left and just kept going, allowing the GPS to autocorrect. It put an extra 15 mins on my journey and was a far better ride. I also stopped in Vipava to try and get to a very old run down castle but could only find a footpath to get there and it was still a fair way to go.

You can just see the Castle in the middle of the photo

The Clouds are coming in

Another Castle I saw on my way back

Tomorrow I am setting off for Croatia and the weather is set to turn bad again, awesome, I can’t wait

Wayne

 

[Wayne66]

Day 7 Balkans Trip

Well, the weather cheered up bit in Nova Gorica so I decided to go. Next stop Metlika on the Slovenia/Croatian Border. I covered about 130 mile today

Day 7 Nova Gorica to Metlika

The weather for the first 50 miles was really good, cloudy but dry. But that was to end rather abruptly about about the Ribnica area. Then it was back to being wet. But on the whole the ride was good. It is just a shame the views and scenery wasn’t as good as it could have been. Even though it was raining for the latter part of the ride it was not that cold and having some good gear helps.
Not many photos today as its a pain taking the gear off to take them but I took a few.

A stop for a coffee

The Clouds are in

The River is getting bit swollen in Dvor

Dvor

Translation for the building in the photo below.
Auersperg ironworks in Dvor was one of the most important industrial plants in Slovenia. In the beginning they operate as a conventional iron smelter, from 1820 when became director Ignaz pl. PANTZ has shifted its production to the iron foundry. They made machines, ammunition, bridges, water pipes, wells, furnaces, construction elements, gravestones and useful and decorative items for home use. The production, as a result of increasing competition, poor ores and impossible traffic connections, in 1891 was forced to quit. Today,at the former ironworks reminiscent the buildings: the machinery, modeling workshop and at the foundry cupola furnace.

Stopping at the Hotel Bela in Metlika, N45.65193 E15.31561 no garage so the bike is locked up outside undercover, hope its still there in the morning :thumbup1:

Over the border into Croatia tomorrow and straight through into Bosnia. Hoping its nice enough to get my tent up!?

Wayne

 

[Wayne66]

Day 8 Balkans Trip

I was on the road for around early this morning as I had to cross 2 Borders, Slovenia/Croatia and then the Croatia/Bosnia Border. Also pulled my back this morning sat on the edge of the bed putting my boots on, trying to lug the bike about is painful.

Day 8 Metlika to Bihać

The journey to the Slovenia/Croatia Border was only about a mile ride and I got through there with ease, both of the passport checkpoints were next to each other. Once I crossed in to Croatia it was a straight run through to Bosnia with a stop off at Karlovac. I needed a cup with a lid, as I made a bit of a school boy error and left mine in England. Tried a couple of shops but couldn’t find one so I ended up getting a small flask. So now at least I have something to keep a brew warm. Whilst in Karlovac I got talking to two Americans who were from some big Christian Church in the States, they were over on a Church Mission. Nice enough people and I even had my photo taken with the husband so they could show their family back home.

The sun trying to break through in Croatia

Nice blue skies

A sneaky photo of the Croatia/Bosnia Border, from the Bosnian side

Then it was back on the road, back is sore but I want to get into Bosnia. Crossing the Border from Croatia to Bosnia again was easy and no messing, I did ask the guy where to get some insurance for the bike but he didn’t have a clue or didn’t know what I was saying…So if anyone knows how to get it please let me know?

 

[Wayne66]

I crossed the border at Velika Kladusa and stopped in the town for coffee, change money and get a sim card. I spent 1.5 hours in the Post Office in town sorting it all out. There was a bloke in there who spoke really good English and he sorted me everything out and even set the phone up for me. The reason I was in there so long as every time I moved around in the PO I was having to join the end of the queue again and it was busy.
Finished in the PO and time to get a coffee.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Velika_Kladuša

 

[Wayne66]

Once all done I went to visit the Velika Kladusa Castle N45.18178 E15.80031which was about a mile out of the town centre. Nice it was but it was all locked up so only saw the outside.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Velika_Kladuša_Castle

There were a few of these in the area

[

Some views from the Castle area

 

[Wayne66]

Then I decided to move on to Bihać before it started to get dark. On the way I passed another Castle in Ostrozac, Stari Grad Ostrozac N44.90516 E15.9370, I didn’t have time to get closer as the light was going.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ostrožac_Castle

 

[Wayne66]

Finally made it to Bihać and found a hotel. I am possibly staying 2 nights as my back is tender and I have been riding for 7 straight days and could do with a rest before visiting some old haunts in Bosnia

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bihać

The River Una before Bihać, high and fast flowing

The River Una in Bihać town is flowing in to the Park

Stopping at the Hotel Park N44.81255 E15.86945, 75 KM which is about £28.00, no garage but the bike is parked right outside the entrance to reception

Rest day tomorrow, the back needs it

Wayne

 

[Wayne66]

Day 9 Balkans Trip

It was good to have a rest day, I was still awake at 0730hrs though. I went and had a leisurely breakfast and then chilled for a bit before going into the town. It was good to stretch the legs and back off. Its a nice place, not too busy but a few people sat outside in the Cafe Bars drinking Kava (coffee).

Some views of the town