The Balkans, late 2015 on my old XT600E (Arrunya)
- Thread starter Wayne66
- Start date
Bistrica, a place close to my heart. It was where I came across a family whose grandmother had been shot by a sniper whilst she was working the field to the rear of the house. Every time the family went to try and help here the sniper stopped them. It was dark by the time they managed to get to her and she was dead. We went on a routine patrol the following day and visited the village and got talking to the family and they told use the story and seeing the grandmother laid out on a stretcher was not good. I was the first and only time I shed a tear in the conflict. All they wanted use to do was guard them whilst they buried her. Which we did and the family was very grateful.
A monument to the dead from the village
I also took the photo below in 93 and took another with the bike parked in the same spot give or take a couple of feet today
A monument to the dead from the village
I also took the photo below in 93 and took another with the bike parked in the same spot give or take a couple of feet today
From there I was into Gornji Vakauf (GV). This was the place where I based was for 6 months in 93, it was good to see a normal live going on with cafe bars all over the place and people milling about doing there thing. Oh times have changed….GV was a very busy area back in 93 with lots of indiscriminate killing, tanks were in the area and artillery and motor fire hit the town and our camp every now and again. Also every day and night there would be exchanges of gun fire between the separate groups in the town and lots of ethic cleansing from all sides. It was a busy old 6 months.
Gornji Vakuf-Uskoplje - Wikipedia
The Old Base is still there and you can even see the UN sign on the wall of the building if you look carefully
On my way in to GV there is still scaring from the War
Looking towards Wayne Edwards Bridge
From the otherside
A couple of photos from the town
Gornji Vakuf-Uskoplje - Wikipedia
The Old Base is still there and you can even see the UN sign on the wall of the building if you look carefully
On my way in to GV there is still scaring from the War
Looking towards Wayne Edwards Bridge
From the otherside
A couple of photos from the town
Tito’s Fist, this was a great monument back in the day and a symbol of the ruler of Yugoslavia as it was. Doesn’t look much now
The first photo I took in 93 the second was today.
Spomenik Database | "Tito's Fist" Monument at Makljen
Then it was down into Prozor to find somewhere to sleep for the night
Wayne
The first photo I took in 93 the second was today.
Spomenik Database | "Tito's Fist" Monument at Makljen
Then it was down into Prozor to find somewhere to sleep for the night
Wayne
Day 18 Balkans Trip
The route today was from Prozor to somewhere before Mostar.
It started off good and ended good with a bit of a twist in the early stages.
It took me about 45 mins to get out of Prozor because I was trying to find a bank to use the ATM and all the main street was having road works done. Talk about traffic congestion it was manic. Eventully found a bank my 3rd run through the town. Then it was fuel and I was off.
Day 18 Prozor to near Mostar
I didn’t want to take the main roads so I had plotted a route through the middle of no where…and it sure was. In some places it was very barren and others were forestry blocks. It was a good ride.
As I left Prozor I rode around Lake Ramsko and in the middle is the Island of Sćit with a Monastery on it. I forgot it was there until I was well around the other side
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ramsko_lake_(Bosnia_and_Herzegovina)
Taken from the Dam
The other side of the Dam
The route today was from Prozor to somewhere before Mostar.
It started off good and ended good with a bit of a twist in the early stages.
It took me about 45 mins to get out of Prozor because I was trying to find a bank to use the ATM and all the main street was having road works done. Talk about traffic congestion it was manic. Eventully found a bank my 3rd run through the town. Then it was fuel and I was off.
Day 18 Prozor to near Mostar
I didn’t want to take the main roads so I had plotted a route through the middle of no where…and it sure was. In some places it was very barren and others were forestry blocks. It was a good ride.
As I left Prozor I rode around Lake Ramsko and in the middle is the Island of Sćit with a Monastery on it. I forgot it was there until I was well around the other side
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ramsko_lake_(Bosnia_and_Herzegovina)
Taken from the Dam
The other side of the Dam
As I continued with my journey I came across a Shrine N43.69696 E17.53280 which was towards the edge of the forestry block, but it was in the middle of no where. I could not see what it was for.
As I left there the twist happened, N43.69657 E17.53327. I had only ridden about 100 yards from getting back on the bike after taking the photos of the shrine and I ended up in some loose gravel, not good, the front washed out from underneath me, I tried to keep the bike rubber down but it wasn’t having none of it, down I went on the left side, the left pannier ended up on my foot, the boots work! So after I had prised myself from under the bike, I picked it up, it was heavy but not as bad as I thought it would have been. On close inspection I have put a big dint in the bottom left corner of the pannier, and pushed it in where it attaches to the frame, I also think the frame has moved but cant be sure.
I got on the bike to ride off to find that the bars had twisted in the fork clamps, or thats what I hoped, Yes they had. So a few hard knocks on the opposite lock sorted that out. Time to move on.
Next up on the unpaved road I came across some more of those Stones N43.66331 E17.54271, these were more tomb shaped than the others I saw the other day.
A few miles down the road from the stones the unpaved road went to paved again and there were really long sweeping bends on it. It was good to be back on the tarmac. I also went passed another Lake, Lake Blininje
I stopped at this little village which had a small supermarket, with a cafe attached to it at N43.54550 E17.41024 and had a Kava before pushing on to some Waterfalls I wanted to visit.
I stopped at this little village which had a small supermarket, with a cafe attached to it at N43.54550 E17.41024 and had a Kava before pushing on to some Waterfalls I wanted to visit.
Next up was the Kravice Waterfalls N43.15641 E17.60898, I thought they were better than the other falls I visited. They were also a lot easier to get there, no heart attack mountain to climb…thankfully. It was a five minute walk from where I left the bike. I had a nice Kava before I left the area.
Kravice Waterfalls
Kravice Waterfalls
Once I left the Waterfall I had one more thing to see before I went to find somewhere to sleep, Pocitelj Castle N43.13303 E17.73093. On the outskirts of Pocitelj I met and got talking to a rider from Austria on a GS1200, he was just out day riding from where he was stopping. Had a natter for about 20 mins before he went towards Mostar and I continued pottering about.
The plan was to wild camp tonight, but I didn’t find anywhere which suited me so I ended up in a Motel on the road to Mostar.
Short journey tomorrow, booked a room for £26 for 3 nights in Mostar, which is my last stop in Bosnia before heading to Kotor in Montenegro
Wayne
The plan was to wild camp tonight, but I didn’t find anywhere which suited me so I ended up in a Motel on the road to Mostar.
Short journey tomorrow, booked a room for £26 for 3 nights in Mostar, which is my last stop in Bosnia before heading to Kotor in Montenegro
Wayne
Day 19 Balkans Trip
Just a sort trip of about 10 mile this morning to get into Mostar.
Had a steady ride in and went to find where I will be staying. As I was early I went for a bit of a ride around the town before finding a Cafe for some fruit tea.
Got settled into the room. It is not as good as the last place I stayed in but its clean and for £7 a night you can not complain. Most importantly Arrunya is in a garage out of the way.
I am going to try and get the left pannier of tomorrow. The biggest worry is that it won’t go back on. But I need to check the pannier frame in more detail, just to make sure its not cracked and also try and straighten the top of the case out as the lid doesn’t fit properly now so its not waterproof and the last think I need is a wet Mac Air.
Some views from on the way into Mostar
The Room
Just a sort trip of about 10 mile this morning to get into Mostar.
Had a steady ride in and went to find where I will be staying. As I was early I went for a bit of a ride around the town before finding a Cafe for some fruit tea.
Got settled into the room. It is not as good as the last place I stayed in but its clean and for £7 a night you can not complain. Most importantly Arrunya is in a garage out of the way.
I am going to try and get the left pannier of tomorrow. The biggest worry is that it won’t go back on. But I need to check the pannier frame in more detail, just to make sure its not cracked and also try and straighten the top of the case out as the lid doesn’t fit properly now so its not waterproof and the last think I need is a wet Mac Air.
Some views from on the way into Mostar
The Room
Day 20 Balkans Trip
Stay local and on foot today.
Had a walk into the old town and into the newer part of town.
Where ever you go in the town there is still a lot of scaring from the War. The old bridge is looking good after the renovation.
Mostar - Wikipedia
The Old Town
Stay local and on foot today.
Had a walk into the old town and into the newer part of town.
Where ever you go in the town there is still a lot of scaring from the War. The old bridge is looking good after the renovation.
Mostar - Wikipedia
The Old Town
Still a lot of scaring from the War mixed in with the normal everyday life. Apart from this reminder it is hard to imagine this was a besieged town. It has a great Adriatic feeling about it
r
Also took the panniers off today, the pannier frame looks intact after my off and although the left pannier is a bit twisted at the top it came off and went back on ok. I don't want to make it any worse so it can wait to get sorted properly once I am back in the UK. Just hope it doesn't rain as it won't be very water tight now
Tomorrow I am going for a ride around and hoping to visit Blagaj 10km south of Mostar and source off the river Buna.
Wayne
Also took the panniers off today, the pannier frame looks intact after my off and although the left pannier is a bit twisted at the top it came off and went back on ok. I don't want to make it any worse so it can wait to get sorted properly once I am back in the UK. Just hope it doesn't rain as it won't be very water tight now
Tomorrow I am going for a ride around and hoping to visit Blagaj 10km south of Mostar and source off the river Buna.
Wayne
Day 21 Balkans Trip
Today I went to Buna N43.25678 E17.90258
The Buna is a short river in Bosnia and Herzegovina; it is a left bank tributary of the Neretva. Its source (Vrelo Bune), a strong karstic spring, is near the village Blagaj, southeast of Mostar. Actually, it is best known by famous Buna Spring (Vrelo Bune), one of the strongest spring in Europe and extremely cold water. The Buna flows west for approximately 9 km, starts at Blagaj and meandering through villages Blagaj, Kosor, Malo Polje, Hodbina and joins the Neretva at Buna village. The Bunica river is main left bank tributary of the Buna.
BH Tourism - Blagaj - Buna
It was a nice place to visit and to sit and relax just listening to the water.
Today I went to Buna N43.25678 E17.90258
The Buna is a short river in Bosnia and Herzegovina; it is a left bank tributary of the Neretva. Its source (Vrelo Bune), a strong karstic spring, is near the village Blagaj, southeast of Mostar. Actually, it is best known by famous Buna Spring (Vrelo Bune), one of the strongest spring in Europe and extremely cold water. The Buna flows west for approximately 9 km, starts at Blagaj and meandering through villages Blagaj, Kosor, Malo Polje, Hodbina and joins the Neretva at Buna village. The Bunica river is main left bank tributary of the Buna.
BH Tourism - Blagaj - Buna
It was a nice place to visit and to sit and relax just listening to the water.
I then had a steady ride back to Mostar and went into the town
Some photos from the way back to Mostar
Tomorrow I am making tracks into Montenegro and I hope I have plotted my route to take in the old road to Trebinje
Wayne
Some photos from the way back to Mostar
Tomorrow I am making tracks into Montenegro and I hope I have plotted my route to take in the old road to Trebinje
Wayne
Day 22 Balkans Trip
I set off from Mostar with no real idea of where I would end up. All I did know is that I was making my was towards Kotor in Montenegro.
Day 22 Mostar to near Kotor
I had a great day riding. I thought I had plotted the old road to Trebinje
but it turned into a really bad track which I was not willing to tackle on my own with a heavy bike so I turned round and went back to the main road. Initially the track was ok but then it turned into sloppy mud, that was the point I turned around. It was not worth the risk by myself.
I set off from Mostar with no real idea of where I would end up. All I did know is that I was making my was towards Kotor in Montenegro.
Day 22 Mostar to near Kotor
I had a great day riding. I thought I had plotted the old road to Trebinje
but it turned into a really bad track which I was not willing to tackle on my own with a heavy bike so I turned round and went back to the main road. Initially the track was ok but then it turned into sloppy mud, that was the point I turned around. It was not worth the risk by myself.
The roads were great for most of the time. Great long bends and some super scenery.
Early on the route I came across some more of the stones just on the outskirts of Stolac N43.09230 E17.92423. Some were fenced off and the others across the road were not.
[
An old Fort in Stolac
Monument in Stolac
Early on the route I came across some more of the stones just on the outskirts of Stolac N43.09230 E17.92423. Some were fenced off and the others across the road were not.
[
An old Fort in Stolac
Monument in Stolac
I stopped at a 14th Century Church, which was nice. It was just at the side of the road on the outskirts of Trebinje. Once in Trebinje I stopped for a good long break after I had found a nice place in the town centre. A couple of coffees were in order.
r
From there I went towards the border crossing. On the way there I went passed a fair sized lake. Bilecko Lake. I was a nice area to ride as the road was good.
Found this about 4.5 mile from the border in Bileca
I crossed the Bosnia/Montenegro Border at N42.86163 E18.47958. Leaving Bosnia was a breeze, they didn’t even want to stamp me out even though I asked. I was stamped in. Strange.
A sneaky shot of the Bosnia Border CP
Then it was about 300m in no mans land to the Montenegro Border control. There the guy asked for my passport, which he got, then he asked for my vehicle documents. So I pulled the bike over and got them out. I gave him my V5 (registration document). He was typing away on the computer. Then he asked for my green card which I didn’t have. He called for his mate who was in another booth. He spoke good English and he told me I would have to buy insurance. So I bought some insurance at the border control area, 20 Euro for 15 days.
So half an hour later I was back on the road. No stamp into the country?.
Found this about 4.5 mile from the border in Bileca
I crossed the Bosnia/Montenegro Border at N42.86163 E18.47958. Leaving Bosnia was a breeze, they didn’t even want to stamp me out even though I asked. I was stamped in. Strange.
A sneaky shot of the Bosnia Border CP
Then it was about 300m in no mans land to the Montenegro Border control. There the guy asked for my passport, which he got, then he asked for my vehicle documents. So I pulled the bike over and got them out. I gave him my V5 (registration document). He was typing away on the computer. Then he asked for my green card which I didn’t have. He called for his mate who was in another booth. He spoke good English and he told me I would have to buy insurance. So I bought some insurance at the border control area, 20 Euro for 15 days.
So half an hour later I was back on the road. No stamp into the country?.
Welcome to Montenegro
The road started of really bad and worn, it would have been better if it was a fully unpaved road rather than what it was. But after a few miles it went into a great road with lots of long sweeping bends and wonderfully scenery.
It was a really good ride towards Kotor.
My first view of the Bay of Kotor and the Adriatic
I ended up stopping in a Hotel in Perast and had to take out a small mortgage to pay for it 60 Euro, after coming from Bosnia I nearly fell through the floor, Ouch. I hope its not going to be this expensive all the time. But it may well be as it is back to using the Euro again.
Stuffed Squid
Hotel Conte N42.48630 E18.69801, It’s a nice room and see took pity on me I think and gave me a sea view room for the same price, it should have been 80 Euro.
I also got a voucher for a free drink in the restaurant next door
Cruise Ship leaving the Bay
A nice easy day tomorrow, about 5 mile to Kotor, find my Airbnb accommodation and relax, sort out my route for the next legs and possible pop to Dubrovnik in Croatia
Wayne
The road started of really bad and worn, it would have been better if it was a fully unpaved road rather than what it was. But after a few miles it went into a great road with lots of long sweeping bends and wonderfully scenery.
It was a really good ride towards Kotor.
My first view of the Bay of Kotor and the Adriatic
I ended up stopping in a Hotel in Perast and had to take out a small mortgage to pay for it 60 Euro, after coming from Bosnia I nearly fell through the floor, Ouch. I hope its not going to be this expensive all the time. But it may well be as it is back to using the Euro again.
Stuffed Squid
Hotel Conte N42.48630 E18.69801, It’s a nice room and see took pity on me I think and gave me a sea view room for the same price, it should have been 80 Euro.
I also got a voucher for a free drink in the restaurant next door
Cruise Ship leaving the Bay
A nice easy day tomorrow, about 5 mile to Kotor, find my Airbnb accommodation and relax, sort out my route for the next legs and possible pop to Dubrovnik in Croatia
Wayne
Day 23 Balkans Trip
I have had a steady morning, only a 6/7 mile ride to Kotor. Once there I had a bit of a ride around. Sourced a new sim card for my phone and then sat and had a coffee.
Kotor - Wikipedia
The other side of the Bay from where I was
Nice coffee spot in Kotor
The entrance to the old town
I have had a steady morning, only a 6/7 mile ride to Kotor. Once there I had a bit of a ride around. Sourced a new sim card for my phone and then sat and had a coffee.
Kotor - Wikipedia
The other side of the Bay from where I was
Nice coffee spot in Kotor
The entrance to the old town
I then set off to meet my Airbnb host, I met him at around 1130hrs. We sat and drank coffee and some home brew, a bit like slivodić, before I settled into my apartment. A nice place, 2 bedrooms, living room, kitchen and a balcony. Just sat relaxing now and deciding on whether to go to Dubrovnik or to Lovcen tomorrow? £35 for 3 nights.
The balcony view
Wayne
The balcony view
Wayne