A short 3 night ride Chiang Khong - Phrae - Nan - Chiang Khong; catching up on old mates.

DavidFL

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The way:
Chiang Khong - Pong - Chiang Muan - Sa Iab (Sakthong) - Phrae.
Phrae - Sa Iab (Sakthong).
Phrae - Khun Satan - Na Noi - Wiang Sa - Nan.
Nan - Chiang Muan - Pong - Chiang Khong.

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The quickest route to Phrae for me straight onto R1 from the Chiang Saen - Chiang Rai bypass, then a fast blast down R1 & R103 into Phrae, but not today.
I took the slow longer, meandering rout via the Sa Iab & Sakthong so as to check up on the GTR dinner the next day.
Are you ready - food & beer for our GTR group?
Yes everything is ok, we know, we are ready, see you all tomorrow.

The master plan for this trip was to hook up with long time riding buddy Armin, whom I've ridden with for close to 30 years.
Armin is an old hand, fabulous guy to hang out with, who loves to just go with the flow.
Over the decades we have done some amazing trips in North Thailand & Laos.

R1340
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Doi Pha Tang entry - before you were allowed to stay there.
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Part of that master plan was to hook up with Gene Long of the (Phi Tong Luang) Mlabri fame, whom we have not seen for 20+ years,. plus another dear friend Toom, ex Top / Top Da Darios restaurant in Nan, whom I / we have known for 30 years.

It was scorching hot when we both arrived in Phrae from opposing directions to find that the agreed hotel we would try was full.
No problem I thought, let's head off the one I discovered last trip. The The Rittiboon Vintage
However I turned off 2 sois too early we stumbled across the Viva Resort
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Excellent value for money @ 400 baht.
Spotlessly clean, whisper quiet air-con & a nice firm bed, that was just right.

Happy hour dinner was at Kim's restaurant.
Nice ambiance, good air-con & attentive service.
The pizza was tasty enough

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But Armin's pasta dish could have been a bit bigger we thought.
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The Beach Bar was rocking on the night, & we were the last leave at 1.15AM.
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More to come ....
 

DavidFL

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Day 2 & a planned Phrae brekky at the Gingerbread house failed, due to the Gingerbread being closed for the day - everyone off to the temple in the morning.
Armin & I rode off to the super & found a PTT with a 7-11 & Amazon Coffee for breakfast. As good as it gets, & we don't really care, just go with the flow & enjoy each day as it comes. It is always a joy to be out riding & touring round North Thailand, or wherever on your bike.

Gene Long & his Mlabri was the goal for the day.
For both ARmin & I we reckon it was 25 years since we had first met Gene, out in the then wilds of Phrae.
I have some photos of that first meeting, but damned if I can find them right how.

However, there are some pics from Scotty 007 of another failed attempt to locate his place.
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When the mighty Honda Wing 175 wouldn't pull the start of R4010 I believe.
Not long after this we found Gene's place I think, but on another trip?

In 2022, the road is all asphalt, except for a 500 metres dirt road into the village.

The turn off
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The bumpy little asphalt - dirt road in
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The Mlabri village across the stream
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Mlabri kids playing
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The track up to Gene's house
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Gene & his missus.
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Still looking as fresh as, the same as 25 years ago = good clean country living out in the mountains.
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Armin & I catted with them for about 1.5 hours, catching up on old times, the latest developments & the future.
It was a fascinating discussion & time.

Is it worth going?
For those familiar with the history & Mlabri maybe it is, but if you're not familiar with the history & the Long family, no it is not really worth the effort. Communication is an issue, & they are genuinely concerned about outsiders perhaps bringing covid into the community.
Armin & I enjoyed ourselves catching up with Gene, but would we plan to go back in the near future. No. Maybe in another 10 years to see how it has developed perhaps.

More to come...
 

DavidFL

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The Mlabri excursion done by midday it was time to meander on up to Sa Iab & the Sakthong for the GTR dinner.
But not before an excursion to the big white Buddha
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Wat Phrathat Pu Jae is the name.
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Put it on your list of Phrae attractions to check out



 

DavidFL

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Some images of the GTR Sakthong Dinner # 2

There were some damn good BBQ fish on sale across the street from the Mountain Lodge
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At the Sakthong..
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Happy contented people who came with the right attitude to hook up with friends & enjoy themselves.

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DavidFL

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Day 3 for Armin & I
Sa Iab - Rong Khwang - Khun Satan - Nan.

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An easy relaxed day riding an old favourite road R1216. Armin had not been on 1216 for a decade +.
The highlight of the day was sitting in a Hmong shop, drinking a few warm beers in the heat of the afternoon, watching a Hmong guy try to affix the tray of his tractor. Over an hour was spent there just observing his efforts & the village life. How good was life doing that Armin & I both thought. No stress, yet so simple.

Some GTR R1216 threads




The Lovers Detour

Off R1120 in Amphur Song we made one slight detour, to the famous Thai lovers shrine: Lilit Phra Lo.
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The awesome threesome, betrayed by a vengeful spiteful grandmother.
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See also

A night of magic in Nan followed at the house of Toom, ex Tip Top / Da Darios restaurant.
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Toom is a dear friend from 30 + years ago in Nan, when she & her then Swiss husband Paolo opened the first farang restaurant in Nan.
The Tip Top, just around the corner fro Dheveraj hotel.
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Their food was outstanding & way ahead of its time in Nan.
There were a few of us who used to ride to Nan for lunch in 1980s - a Caesar salad & Cordon Bleu!
And in 2022 Armin & I went for the same dishes, as good as ever.
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There have been decades of golden times riding & touring North Thailand.
Most of them have been fabulous times all round, hanging out with good friends, people with kindness & empathy who love life.
Long may they continue.
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