Doi Saket to Lampang and return on back roads.

Steve Merchant

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Its March and suddenly the weather has changed, its getting hotter and visibility is reduced due to air pollution but its still nice to get out. Staying at my sons house in Doi Saket I decided to try a few roads I haven't yet ridden on that looked as if they would be interesting. As usual I set off quite early, before 8am and took the 3005 out past Doi Saket hot springs, past the turn to Mae Kompong and then a left on to the 1230 heading south.
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The turn off from the 1317 onto the 1230 was not well marked and looked like a small lane into a farm. For a couple of kms it stayed narrow and then suddenly opened into a highway. It was wide, empty and just rolled off across the hillside forest with sweeping curves and regular ups and downs. The surface is obviously thin and already breaking up with potholes and loose gravel but nothing serious. The forest at this time of year is not so green but it was still real natural mountain forest with big trees and plenty of fallen leaves . There was also lots of cowshit, a sure sign that local farmers were using national park land to feed their cows.
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Stopped to look at a scenic viewpoint I heard a bird call, the familiar noise made by a peacock ( I once worked in India and stayed at a palace hotel with lots of them) and suddenly it flew down 50m from where I was standing and was good enough to let me get a picture. A stunning bird.
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The road then rolled on down off the mountains and into a typical Thai country valley with rice fields, farmers and a small village with a big Buddhist attraction. Ban Tha Krai, a village with probably just a few hundred inhabitants has gone in for some temple attractions to catch the eye and maybe get some donations from the wealthy. Today seemed to be a day of activity with a small band, prayers coming over a loud speaker system and some worshippers arriving by van.
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Having left with nothing but a hot coffee I was by now rather hungry and expected I could find a stall selling a few typical Thai snack for my brunch. But what did they have on offer? A small bucket of fried chicken (KFC style) and a carton of french fries. So thats what I settled for. From here down to the turn off for the Doi Khun Tan National Park was what you would call typical northern Thai country villages and farms. Mixed agriculture with corn, rice, various vegetables and ponds which I feel sure were stocked with local fish. The cattle farmers in particular seemed to be doing well with some quite big sheds and a variety of cattle that dont need lush grass. It was quite heartening to see that the main feed was corn waste, the stuff I see all over the north piled up from the harvest of corn on just about every spare piece of land that can be found. Also good to see the cowshit being put to use under the fruit trees.
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The left turn onto the 5017 was obviously coming up with several signs for the Doi Khun Tan National Park but when it arrived it was well enough hidden for me to overshoot and have to reverse up. This road was a far better surface then the one over the previous mountains but a fair bit narrower. The forest was maybe a touch greener and there was enough steep slopes and sharp corners to keep me awake.
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Both these mountain roads were extremely quiet, just a few bikes and the odd car but mostly I had the whole place to myself. A lovely feeling after spending time stuck in Chiang Mai traffic getting out to Doi Saket. It was only on nearing Lampang that I actually started to see other vehicles but thankfully the roads were quick and getting past the urban areas didn't take too long. Yes, there was little to see until I was the far side of Muang Pan, the 1157 is just a highway. But the 1252 does tend to make up for it and despite it being afternoon it was still noticeable cooler under the heavy canopy of this proper rainforest. The Karen and Yao that live here have done a terrific job of preserving the forest and their coffee, grown under the shade of big trees looks great in the afternoon light .
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Getting a bit sore in the saddle and ready for a snack I made my last stop at a coffee house I had seen before but always passed in the mornings. Its THE place with a view, situated right on a steep mountainside with a view that makes paying 60b a cup just about worth it. I also met a guy here who has done some night time camera traps in this area and who told me there are still bears and even maybe leopards in this area. He is also a top bird photographer which is what he was doing sat looking down into the forest canopy. Made my day, simple man that I am.
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From the coffee shop just a couple of minutes, a left onto the 4063 and I was back where I started going past the Doi Saket hot springs. 7 hours, a little under 300 kms and a pretty decent day for early March.
 
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DavidFL

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That's a nice loop alright. Well done.

Met a guy here who has done some night time camera traps in this area and who told me there are still bears and even maybe leopards in this area. He is also a top bird photographer which is what he was doing sat looking down into the forest canopy.

Good news there's still a bit of wildlife in there. That Nat Park certainly is popular with hunter gatherers.
If you're out that way again, take a ride up the 4009 & then the 4047, the Hua Muang road. There's some fantastic timber houses built in the villages along that road.
The road dead ends at the top of the valley, but you're not far from Nam Rin / Muang Ngoi & Limeleaf eco-Lodge · 138 Moo 8, Mae Chedi Mai, Wingpapao, Chiang Rai 57260, Thailand across the other side of the mountain & R118.

This coffee shops looks interesting too