fuel controller for CRF250L/M

Discussion in 'Honda Big Bikes Thailand' started by KZ25, Mar 22, 2014.

  1. KZ25

    KZ25 Ol'Timer

    I've read all the CRF threads but could'nt find much info on a fuel controller.
    I've emptied my muffler and inserted a 2" core and packing which improved performance a bit and cut off the air filter screen which did some more good.
    Now I'm wondering if the bike runs too lean and want to get a EJK fuel controller to save some gas anyways.
    Has anybody installed a fuel controller on his CRF? Can you get one here or do you have to order from overseas?
    Any info appreciated!
  2. Loading...

  3. Ian Bungy

    Ian Bungy Ol'Timer

    Take the Snorkle out of the Top of Your Airbox as well. This will make a Good Difference! Then get the Fuel Proggramer! Like this one:
    http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/290_307/products_id/4801 . If You Buy off CRF's Only they should set it up for Your Bike so You don't have to Touch it!
    I brought the Complete Set for Mine, This One:
    This Made a Huge difference! Well Worth it! I got the Mega Bomb and the 13 tooth sprocket in the Set. I haven't even used the Sprocket as it is fine standard! Worth the Money!
    Good Luck.
  4. TonyBKK

    TonyBKK Ol'Timer

    If your bike is running lean (and it probably is) you'll need to ADD fuel, so the fuel controller isn't going to save you any gas, but it could well boost your performance and even save your engine :)

    How are you going to measure your air-fuel ratio?

    AFAIK Dynojet's Autotune is the only DIY product that lets you to measure your air fuel ratio. Without knowing your air-fuel ratio any adjustments you make to your fueling are really seat-of-the-pants "best guess", right? As a general rule, better too rich than too lean. Sure, looking at your plug gives you a rough indication of rich or lean burn, but fine tuning your fueling throughout the rev range and at different throttle positions requires a lot more precision.

    I'm a bit surprised to see that Dynojet does not yet offer a PCV for the CRF-L. Even for the CBR250R they only offer the more basic PCFC unit which won't work with the Autotune module...
  5. KZ25

    KZ25 Ol'Timer

    Thanks for that, Ian! Looks like I have to order, is the above site Australian or are the prices in $US?
    It lists the EJK controller for $225, is that 7,300 THB or 6,600THB (Koala dollars)? Plus shipping.
    I wonder if I need one as long as the snorkel is still in, I only cut off the metal screen and emptied the muffler.
    I'm fine with the power, just don't want to run the engine too lean, I read that it's on the lean side stock, all plugged up.
    Maybe down the road I'll get the EJK and have it adjusted by someone who knows what he's doing.
  6. KZ25

    KZ25 Ol'Timer

    Yes, my situation is quite unprofessional, I don't know what I'm dealing with, I don't have the tools (or mechanics) to measure anything, only info off the 'net, and that's mostly for CRF250Ls that have FMF slip-ons or systems. My self-made muffler shouldn't be as free-flowing as a smaller, straight aftermarket muffler. Also I don't know what the exact difference between a ECU and a fuel controller is or how they work together.
    When I had some straight pipes made for my 1400 Intruder I went to the Suzuki dealer, the mech inserted a gizmo into the mufflers, then messed with the air/fuel mixture screws, it was easy in those days and living in a country with better educated mechanics sure helps.
    I just wonder if I'm damaging the engine by running it without the filter screen and a better flowing exhaust. I was told that as long as the snorkel stays in it should be okay. Don't want to find out the hard way that it wasn't true. :)
  7. TonyBKK

    TonyBKK Ol'Timer

    Well, I get the impression that your riding style is quite conservative, so if you're not wringing its neck and bouncing off the rev limiter having the engine run a bit lean really shouldn't cause any long term problems. If, on the other hand you do like to twist the wrist, running lean is a sure fire way to burn a valve or cook a piston.

    There are plenty of Thai (and farang) mechanics here who can set up and tune a fuel controller, but down in your neck of the woods...
  8. KZ25

    KZ25 Ol'Timer

    Right, my wild days are over, these days my mantra is "easy does it" and I haven't been down in 13 years of riding in Thailand.
    Well, a couple of minor mirror/lever benders, but that don't count.
    Still, guess down the line I want to get it set up right, maybe do a trip to BKK, take the snorkel out and set up a fuel controller.
    But I don't want to mess with it myself, doing test runs and adjustments. I have enough experience to know when to let others do the job. :)
    Any addresses in BKK for English-speaking mechanics?
  9. TonyBKK

    TonyBKK Ol'Timer

    Dirt shop offers full service tuning and Khun Bai speaks a bit of english:

    Tel : 0-2322-1441, 0-2322-1446
    Fax : 0-2321-4689
    Email: [email protected]
    GPS WAYPOINT: N13' 43.106, E100' 40.036

    Khun Pui at AP Performance is a talented tuner but no idea if he'll work on the Honda 250... APshop Accesory&Perfomance

    Same goes for Boyd at Chicane. Chicane Performance Moto
  10. KZ25

    KZ25 Ol'Timer

    That's the questions - are the mods minor and the ECU can handle or are the changes beyond the ECUs capability to adjust and I'm damaging the engine in the long run?
    Word is that as long as I don't take out the snorkel it'll be alright.
    I only took off the filter screen and messed with the muffler so I hope the ECU can handle.
    I noticed a fuel consumption increase of 10% going highway 120km/h average, so it is running richer.
  11. bsacbob

    bsacbob Ol'Timer

    Think my bike is same as yours in terms of mods but I have EJK fitted takes a while to figure out but definitely crisper performance. Bought from TNT motors in fang 7,500 baht check them out on FB

    Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
  12. toughnut

    toughnut Member

    I went through CRFs only for most of my stuff for the CRF 250M. I bought a full yoshi RS4 exhaust and the fuel tuner. I'll cut the air box up a bit now and see about getting better power. Its not too bad now but very loud. haha. But the guys at CRFs only are great to deal with. Now I just need to find an after market rear brake peddle to replace the factory crap.
  13. DP Asia

    DP Asia Member

    If you're using an EJK, the ecu limitations are not a problem. The EJK works after the ECU, not before it, and doesn't have to try and change the factory fuel limits, instead, it supplements them. Your fuel injection system will still be able to correct for altitude, density, temperature etc. as designed, and the EJK will correct the difference between what the ecu provides and what your engine actually needs. You won't damage your engine and you won't have to make adjustments for changing conditions.. You'll also have the ability to fuel a street cam if you want.
  14. CBR250

    CBR250 Ol'Timer

  15. Billyh

    Billyh New Member

    Hi,when you bought from CRF's only did you get hit for Import Duty when it entered Thailand ?

  16. John Aero

    John Aero Ol'Timer

    I have just bought a 250M and finding it to be fun on back roads. Needs bit more power and was thinking of the full Yoshi system to start with. Don't want it too loud, all the 110 cc bikes here with loud exhausts put me off. Is it loud throughout the rev range ask as my VTR with race exhaust was only loud when being reved hard?
  17. KZ25

    KZ25 Ol'Timer

    Small VTR or big VTR?
  18. John Aero

    John Aero Ol'Timer

    Yes there was the VTR250 but don't think I have ever even seen one - no mine was the full fat 1000cc. It was a great bike, massive torque, slim and being a twin did not have to rev it like a four.
  19. KZ25

    KZ25 Ol'Timer

    I had a couple of the small ones - loved them! You could rev the hell out of them and still do somewhat legal speeds.

    Quite a bit more power and maybe even lighter than the CBR250! They should have brought that one over...



  20. John Aero

    John Aero Ol'Timer

    Yes now see your snaps remember seeing one somewhere in Asia, is it still in production? Looks nice would like to have a go on one. Yes as you say more power and similar weight than the CBR/CRF250. Want to use my M on some light trails or just have bit more grip when minor road goes to dirt say 80 / 90 % on road but want to retain good road rain riding. Looking at replacing stock tyres with either Scorpion Trails or MT60 - the first look only slightly off road where as the MT's look bit too off road and possibly sacrifice rain tarmac grip. There is an RS version of the MT which I think is super soft but not in size that will fit the rear. I asked this in another post and no one came up with any suggestions, you have had your M for some time so what is your opinion?
  21. KZ25

    KZ25 Ol'Timer

    To me the 250M is a street bike, the suspension irons out potholes and bumps and not only that, you can jump curbs and cut through traffic bigger and more powerful bikes can't. So I want street tires since I do 95% street and want to feel safe when it's wet. If I go on unpaved roads I have to slow down, so what.
    I got Michelin Street Pilot Radials now for 13,000 km and they look as if they'd last another 13,000! They're quite a bit better than the stock IRC all around, I paid 6,000 THB for them, chose a 140 rear which improved slow peed handling.
    I might try Pirelli Diablos if I manage to get any or Michelins again, Pilot 4 or so.
    I had MT60s on my XR650L way back and liked them but pure street tires is what I'm after now.
  22. John Aero

    John Aero Ol'Timer

    Thanks for the info. Yes can see where you are coming from and agree the M is a street bike but up here or even in Krabi where I was for a bit last year the nice (for a CRF) side roads would frequently turn to dirt sometimes with big ruts. How was your XR650L with the MT60 on tarmac i.e. did you have to treat them like full knoblies in the rain - with caution?
  23. KZ25

    KZ25 Ol'Timer

    The MT60s were great, easy to drift in corners, I never tried to but it just happened when I opened the throttle midturn in 2nd gear.

    No problems in the rain, but they are also a bit more pricey and wear out quicker.
  24. KZ25

    KZ25 Ol'Timer

    I posted this on the API thread by mistake (followed too many links) but it should have gone here instead:

    Update: After over a year and appr. 15,000 km running the stock muffler with a core and FMF Racing packing the sound was getting louder and changed, not extremely so, but I could tell that it's time to look into it. It's still quieter than most aftermarket mufflers I've heard.
    I decided to have the muffler cut open to see how much packing blew out but the shop that did it before is now telling me they are too busy, so I have to run around a bit. The local Honda shop doesn't even have a spark plug in stock!
    Out of curiosity I pulled the plug to check the color and was surprised to see that the electrode was almost gone, only a thin spike pointed up in the center, the outsides were burned off. The bike was running fine, no power loss or anything that would have indicated a problem.
    I hope (very much so!) that most of the plug burned off when the muffler started to lose some packing during the last few hundred km.
    Now I wonder if I damaged the valves or the piston - is there any way to check that without pulling the head off?
    I changed the air filter at 12,000 km and left the screen on since it didn't make much of a difference, and I ride the bike mostly in the medium revs on the road, not close to redline and never hit the rev limiter, so I hoped the ECU would take care of the rather minor change.
    I made several trips to Phuket but didn't want to mess with it then, but now I know I should have gotten the EJK!
  25. John Aero

    John Aero Ol'Timer

    The plug in CRF is iridium and they have a very different looking electrode to conventional plugs - quite sharp / small diameter - see http://www.ngkntk.co.jp/english/product/sparkplugs/sparkplugs/ Conventional wisdom says says that because the iridium tip is very had that you should not adjust the gap like old type plugs. The CRF workshop manual does reinforce this i.e. if gap is wrong replace. It also states that you should use a wire type feeler gauge not conventional flat again because of damage to the small hard tip. Obviously all this said your plug could be damaged but worth comparing with a new one.
  26. KZ25

    KZ25 Ol'Timer

    Thanks for pointing that out!
    The distance between the electrodes looks okay, I mistook the shape of the iridium electrode for being damaged.
    Maybe they all look like this after almost 20,000 km.
    I should've taken a photo the last time I pulled it!

Share This Page