Official PERFORMANCE ECU VS Homemade mods (D-Tracker)

Discussion in 'Kawasaki Big Bikes Thailand' started by ::J::, Mar 29, 2010.

  1. ::J::

    ::J:: Member

    Hi guys,
    I wanted to know if any of you has an idea about how different the (8000B) Performance ECU sold by Kawasaki is compared to the 2 other Derestricting mods.

    The first other mod i'm talking about is the (FREE) technique posted on Thumpertalks about cutting a wire and linking it to the CPU, tricking the "bike" as if it was in Neutral gear, alowing to rev high on any gear.

    The second other mod is the (2000B) made in CM "box", wich from what i understood also alows to rev high in any gear.

    The price difference is really high, from 8k to nothing, i was wondering how different those 3 mods really are. If the point is just about reving higher, the free mod does it well, if it's also about injection setting or specific mapping it might worth it to pay the price.

    Long story short, should i cut or should i pay ? :lol:
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  3. johngooding

    johngooding Ol'Timer

    There are quite a few opinions to be found by scrolling down the posts in this group.
    eg d-tracker-ecu-derestriction-info-opinions-wanted-t6300.html

    I have done the cut business, and yes it revs more freely in higher gears. Nothing like the top speeds mentioned though, but my feeling is that speeds approaching 150kph are just innapropriate for the overall construction and nature of this bike.
    Ian at the X-centre is happy with the results from his performance ecu and felt the money was well spent.
    Why not do the easy cut cable mod, and see if you are happy with performance. If not easy to reverse, and consider the value of the other mods.
  4. Ian Bungy

    Ian Bungy Ol'Timer

    No One has proven the "Wire Cutting" Bodge Job over the Long term yet or over any Great Mileage? The 8000 Baht ECU I got from Kawasaki also comes with a New Rectifier to Cope with the Increase in Charge being Produced by the Higher Revs? I agree in Most Cases people will happily putt around at Slow Speed in which case this will be Irrelevant But we are not "Most Cases" and My KLX has been Run all Day at Full Throttle on more than one occasion as some of You Guys have witnessed so I prefer to have all the Bases covered and if Something does Fry at least I will have nothing to Blame or Wish I had brought the Original Article??? I am Not into Bodged Jobs or the Quick Fix and Prefer the Best way if possible? Sometimes it isn't or it is Outrageously Priced so then We have to settle with what we can get? I am Sure under Normal Use the Wire Cutting will be fine!
  5. johngooding

    johngooding Ol'Timer

    Hi Ambassador, Well I guess the wire cutting/rerouting could be a good job or a bodge depending how it is done. I took care to make clean soldered joints and leave all the wires well insulated and tidy. Seems cheeky of Kawasaki to restrict the bike for unstated reasons and then to charge for an ECU which gives you better performance. We are not really talking here of souping up or tuning the bike, but just releasing the performance that is already there. I have covered 1000km with no ill effects, but I know other people have done many more. As you said maybe if the bike is run at constant full throttle for long periods, there may be some problems, but these would probably occur with any bike run in the same way. (Not possible with higher power bikes on Thai roads).

    Time will tell and hopefully all users of the different methods will report their results after a good running period. Cheers John
  6. ::J::

    ::J:: Member

    One thing is pushing me to the "do it myself" method, i called Kawasaki for a few questions.

    The told me the Performance ECU is 9000B and not 8000.

    But they also told me that changing to the Performance ECU cancels the warranty , and that really turns me off...

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