Chiang Kham Loop & Phu Arnmar Camping


Dec 9, 2008
East of Chiang Kham is a wonderfully scenic 40klm loop, now fully tarmac'd.The 1345 / 4029 runs out of Chiang Kham, past the Bua Thong Resort and then curves around south to meet the 1148 at Bahn Hae.
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I was on my way there, via the river road from Chiang Saen to Chiang Khong.......
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...... and the 1155.
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Once on the Chiang Kham loop, you soon see signs for Phu ArnMar and Unseen Thailand.
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Out of the town, the mountains soon appear.
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Double yellow lines........ No Overtaking......... errrr...... I didn't even see a buffalo to overtake....
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The village of Bahn Pang Tham lies next to this impressive bluff. There is a "Tham" (cave) here that needs checking out, next time.
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Looking back to Pang Tham......
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....... and east to Phu ArnMar.
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Gorgeous mountain scenery and new tarmac with no traffic.
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About halfway round the loop you come to a T junction, where the 1345 turns east to Bahn Nong Ha or you turn right down the 4029 to meet the 1148 at Bahn Hae. I turned left on the spur to the east.
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More wonderful twisties through the mountains, for about 20 klms.
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There are some fairly steep sections on this 4029 as you climb up.......
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........ finally coming to a new 1 klm concrete access road, also a little steep.
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Then you have reached the Phu ArnMar car park.
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A car park with a view.
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Not exactly a busy day..........!
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I took the panniers off the bike to carry the camping gear etc up. The path is about 100m steep walk, but steps all the way.
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Up on to the escarpment.
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At 1658M, it is like a smaller, lower, lesser known, Phu Chee Fah.
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Fortunately, there was one reasonably flat spot to pitch the tent.
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From the top of the steps, you can walk about 50m in either direction along the edge of the escarpment.
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At this point, you can look east about 5klms, across the valley to the next ridge that forms the Phayao - Nan border, with the peak of Phu Langkha at the bottom of that ridge to the southwest.

Next morning it was a bit chilly....... 5 deg C.....
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Looking southwest along the Phu ArnMar escarpment, with Phu Langkha in the distance. Langkha is a little higher at 1720m.
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These old bikes had a lot of air space around the engine........
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Looking down on the beautiful Talay Mork, the "Sea of Fog".
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I rode east and down to the small Akha village of Bahn Nong Ha. They have a Royal project there set up by the Queen, so I got a welcome coffee on a cold morning.

The 1148 is a fantastic road, but the northern section is not that exciting. So, if you have time, why not take in this loop on 1345 & 4029. It is a very quiet and scenic road..... you won't be disappointed....
Last edited:


Staff member
Jan 16, 2003
Chiang Khong
Fabulous. That looks like a must do ride for anyone passing through Chiang Kham.

This is as sexy as


Many thanks for the tip off.

It must have been a bit chill;y camping out there on the ridge. Glad it was you & not me.


Mar 18, 2013
I have updated the road on OSM. Last time I rode there it was a section of about 4 km with roadwork.

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