Some of the most amazing and toughest roads in Himachal Pradesh. Three punctures, landslide, water crossing - the route has it all. Shimla to Kalpa With the proper paperwork in hand it was time to hit the road - we stumbled out at first light, and took the serpentine road from Shimla. It gets light very early in summer - around 5am, but it takes till around 7am before your start feeling the sun's warmth. In Shimla, though cold, that wasnt that much of a factor. The sun sets pretty late as well, around 7plus in the evening - it affords you plenty of time to get to your destination and on roads like those in Kinnaur and Spiti you need plenty of time. The road rose through the hills, past apple orchards and quaint little villages. The first day's ride was a 200km(ish) jaunt to Kalpa. We had to go through Rampur, a large(ish) town that was halfway and then past the hydro-electric dam works along the Sutlej river. The road was pretty good till Rampur, after which the road fell apart quite spectacularly. The 100km from Rampur till Kalpa was a quilted road of rocks, pebbles, steep inclines and amazing drop off. Sections of roads were scooped right out of the mountainside, with rocky roof overhead and blind corners. Other sections you were travelling on a little thread of a road, with a sheer cliff on one side and a 1000m drop-off on the other side. There's a History program going on at the moment: IRT World's Deadliest Road's and its the same road we took. Here a preview on youtube: . They called it the freefall highway, on account of the sheer drops - however, after watching the show and riding it first-hand, its a pretty accurate account of just how crazy the road can be. From the dam, the road was an unfurled ribbon that lay on the side of the mountain, so narrow it was crazy the way the Indian drivers pass each other. Somehow we made it to Rekong Peo, a small town at the base of a mountain - Kapla was above Rekong Peo on a winding 10km jaunt.