In Search of The Salween and Moei Confluence - A Trail Ride with CRF250L
Late January 2018.
Well this one had been in my bucket list for quite sometime already. I've always been fascinated about rivers and especially the confluences where I can just sit back and watch a tributary flow into the major artery. And as an ancient Chinese general apparently said - 'If you sit by a river and watch it flow long enough you can eventually see all your enemies flow by and disappear into the distance'.
Map of the Salween river south of Ban Mae Sam Laep
Since I was in Mae Sariang I figured now is the time to do it and try to locate the confluence of Salween and Moei rivers. I had seen the Salween and Moei previously yes, but never the actual confluence as it is hidden in relatively remote corner of Sob Moei district. I had studied Google Earth previously in order to try and locate some trails and get a better idea how to get there. But it wasn't much use in the end. However, after some consultation over few beers in Ching Ching Cafe I decided to put my money where my mouth was.the following morning.
Street art in Mae Sariang promoting tourism in the area
I had brought an extra fuel canister with me as I had no idea of the eventual distance to the confluence and what waited for me there. Will I find it straight away or meander around looking for it. It was better to have the extra fuel and not need it than need it and not have it. It would also be my first real trail ride as I had no real previous trail riding experience.
So first order of business in the morning was to fill my extra fuel canister at a nearby petrol station and have some quick 7-Eleven stuff for breakfast. After that it was across the bridge over Yuam river and highway 1194 first south and then west towards Ban Mae Sam Laep by the river Salween, or Thanlwin as they called it on the Burmese side. Highway 1194 was in great shape I thought and thoroughly enjoyed my ride over the hills to Ban Mae Sam Laep. Upon reaching the entrance to Mae Sam Laep I headed south along the Salween and the road quickly turned into a dirt road. This dirt road was still in pretty good shape and no issue whatsoever for the CRF250L.
Salween (Thanlwin) just south of Ban Mae Sam Laep
After some 20 km of the dirt road the road forked and a narrow arse trail led into the bush while the main dirt road continued straight. Luckily I found someone by a nearby house who confirmed that I indeed needed to take the trail into the bush in order to get on a right track towards the confluence. This trail was mixture of dirt and broken concrete in some sections. It winded through the hills and through some villages of which some some had few people whereas others seemed empty and only occupied by dogs, pigs, chicken and the odd goat. I recall stopping at one time for a drink and think to myself this trail isn't much more than a goat trail - only to hear couple bells and realise a little herd of small goats was actually climbing the hillside above my head.
On the way to the confluence
I stopped for instructions couple times upon meeting people just to confirm I took the correct trail towards the confluence. Some of the villagers I met did not speak any Thai hence I assumed they were Kayin (Karen). Some 15-20 km of this trail was relatively easy. But the last 5 km or so became more a bit more challenging as the trail became steeped as it descended towards the river.
Passing little mountain creeks along the way
And then I saw it in the distance. There it was, the confluence of Salween and Moei rivers against a scenic mountain range in Burma. Getting closer but not there yet. This section of the trail is more difficult as it's steeper and also the trail itself is a mixture of ruts, sand and rocks with at least one modest hippo pond to maneuver. Finally after some controlled descent with some slipping and sliding here and there I reached a concrete road running along the Moei river towards the confluence. And the it was, one item off the bucket list.
Salween and Moei confluence in the distance, Still ways to go.....
Start descent towards the river
Getting closer
And there it is Salween and Moei river confluence. The point where Salween disappears back into Burma.
The village here at the Salween and Moei rivers' confluence is called Ban Sob Moei - not to be confused with Sob Moei district which is just off the highway 105 south of Mae Sariang. A cool fact about the Moei river which many do not know, or not realise, is that it runs in a northerly direction away from the sea. It starts in Tak province and instead of running south towards the sea it actually runs north and into Salween. It is the only major river in Thailand that I know does that. It also forms the border between Thailand and Burma as many of you know.
Well deserved drink break at the confluence
A lone traveler arrives to the confluence
The Salween and Moei confluence is a very attractive and peaceful spot. However, it is not always so peaceful on the other side.as Kayin (Karen) State is an active conflict zone despite the many ceasefire agreements they have in place between the Burmese Military (Tatmadaw) and various Karen insurgent organizations. The active players in the state are the Tatmadaw aligned Border Guard Force (BGF), Karen National Union (KNU and their armed wing Karen National Liberation Army KNLA) and Democratic Karen Buddhist Army (DKBA which broke off KNU in 1994) which itself had a splinter group who renamed themselves Democratic Karen Benevolent Army (DKBA-5). As far as I know large parts of the northern Karen State is under KNU/KNLA control.
Moei river arrives to the confluence with Salween
The confluence
There is also a hydroelectric dam project planned downstream Salween some 30 odd kilometres from the confluence. The Hatgyi Dam which funded by Thailand's EGAT, China's Sino Hydro Corporation and Myanmar's Ministry of Electric Power and International Group of Entrepreneurs. A likely conflict zone between Burmese Military and KNU. The dam area is also ethnically diverse, ecologically rich and located within a wildlife sanctuary.
Google Earth view of the confluence area
The confluence
After taking in the beauty of the river confluence it was time to head. I was very pleased with myself that I had made it here and negotiated the rough rocky and sandy downhill section without falling over. But then it dawned on to me - shit, I need to make it back up there through the loose mixture of sand, rocks and ruts. Couple times I had to stop and let the bike slide back down brake on for several metres in order to gain traction again and get going. But I made it okay.
Time to head back up and over the hills
Views along the trail back towards Ban Mae Sam Laep
Finally over the hills and back by the Salween south of Mae Sam Laep
At Ban Mae Mae Sam Laep
North side of Ban Mae Sam Laep
Back at Ban Mae Sam Laep I decided to check the road north or the village leading to Tha Ta Fang on the banks of Salween. But I was running out of time and realised some of the cracks and ruts on the road were wide and deep as grand canyon so better leave it till next time. Plus it was getting a tad late in the afternoon and I was indeed tired.
So back to Mae Sariang and more beers and some nosh at the Ching Ching cafe as I was very pleased with what I had just done.
Some more tourism promoting street art at Mae Sariang
Late January 2018.
Well this one had been in my bucket list for quite sometime already. I've always been fascinated about rivers and especially the confluences where I can just sit back and watch a tributary flow into the major artery. And as an ancient Chinese general apparently said - 'If you sit by a river and watch it flow long enough you can eventually see all your enemies flow by and disappear into the distance'.
Map of the Salween river south of Ban Mae Sam Laep
Since I was in Mae Sariang I figured now is the time to do it and try to locate the confluence of Salween and Moei rivers. I had seen the Salween and Moei previously yes, but never the actual confluence as it is hidden in relatively remote corner of Sob Moei district. I had studied Google Earth previously in order to try and locate some trails and get a better idea how to get there. But it wasn't much use in the end. However, after some consultation over few beers in Ching Ching Cafe I decided to put my money where my mouth was.the following morning.
Street art in Mae Sariang promoting tourism in the area
I had brought an extra fuel canister with me as I had no idea of the eventual distance to the confluence and what waited for me there. Will I find it straight away or meander around looking for it. It was better to have the extra fuel and not need it than need it and not have it. It would also be my first real trail ride as I had no real previous trail riding experience.
So first order of business in the morning was to fill my extra fuel canister at a nearby petrol station and have some quick 7-Eleven stuff for breakfast. After that it was across the bridge over Yuam river and highway 1194 first south and then west towards Ban Mae Sam Laep by the river Salween, or Thanlwin as they called it on the Burmese side. Highway 1194 was in great shape I thought and thoroughly enjoyed my ride over the hills to Ban Mae Sam Laep. Upon reaching the entrance to Mae Sam Laep I headed south along the Salween and the road quickly turned into a dirt road. This dirt road was still in pretty good shape and no issue whatsoever for the CRF250L.
Salween (Thanlwin) just south of Ban Mae Sam Laep
After some 20 km of the dirt road the road forked and a narrow arse trail led into the bush while the main dirt road continued straight. Luckily I found someone by a nearby house who confirmed that I indeed needed to take the trail into the bush in order to get on a right track towards the confluence. This trail was mixture of dirt and broken concrete in some sections. It winded through the hills and through some villages of which some some had few people whereas others seemed empty and only occupied by dogs, pigs, chicken and the odd goat. I recall stopping at one time for a drink and think to myself this trail isn't much more than a goat trail - only to hear couple bells and realise a little herd of small goats was actually climbing the hillside above my head.
On the way to the confluence
I stopped for instructions couple times upon meeting people just to confirm I took the correct trail towards the confluence. Some of the villagers I met did not speak any Thai hence I assumed they were Kayin (Karen). Some 15-20 km of this trail was relatively easy. But the last 5 km or so became more a bit more challenging as the trail became steeped as it descended towards the river.
Passing little mountain creeks along the way
And then I saw it in the distance. There it was, the confluence of Salween and Moei rivers against a scenic mountain range in Burma. Getting closer but not there yet. This section of the trail is more difficult as it's steeper and also the trail itself is a mixture of ruts, sand and rocks with at least one modest hippo pond to maneuver. Finally after some controlled descent with some slipping and sliding here and there I reached a concrete road running along the Moei river towards the confluence. And the it was, one item off the bucket list.
Salween and Moei confluence in the distance, Still ways to go.....
Start descent towards the river
Getting closer
And there it is Salween and Moei river confluence. The point where Salween disappears back into Burma.
The village here at the Salween and Moei rivers' confluence is called Ban Sob Moei - not to be confused with Sob Moei district which is just off the highway 105 south of Mae Sariang. A cool fact about the Moei river which many do not know, or not realise, is that it runs in a northerly direction away from the sea. It starts in Tak province and instead of running south towards the sea it actually runs north and into Salween. It is the only major river in Thailand that I know does that. It also forms the border between Thailand and Burma as many of you know.
Well deserved drink break at the confluence
A lone traveler arrives to the confluence
The Salween and Moei confluence is a very attractive and peaceful spot. However, it is not always so peaceful on the other side.as Kayin (Karen) State is an active conflict zone despite the many ceasefire agreements they have in place between the Burmese Military (Tatmadaw) and various Karen insurgent organizations. The active players in the state are the Tatmadaw aligned Border Guard Force (BGF), Karen National Union (KNU and their armed wing Karen National Liberation Army KNLA) and Democratic Karen Buddhist Army (DKBA which broke off KNU in 1994) which itself had a splinter group who renamed themselves Democratic Karen Benevolent Army (DKBA-5). As far as I know large parts of the northern Karen State is under KNU/KNLA control.
Moei river arrives to the confluence with Salween
The confluence
There is also a hydroelectric dam project planned downstream Salween some 30 odd kilometres from the confluence. The Hatgyi Dam which funded by Thailand's EGAT, China's Sino Hydro Corporation and Myanmar's Ministry of Electric Power and International Group of Entrepreneurs. A likely conflict zone between Burmese Military and KNU. The dam area is also ethnically diverse, ecologically rich and located within a wildlife sanctuary.
Google Earth view of the confluence area
The confluence
After taking in the beauty of the river confluence it was time to head. I was very pleased with myself that I had made it here and negotiated the rough rocky and sandy downhill section without falling over. But then it dawned on to me - shit, I need to make it back up there through the loose mixture of sand, rocks and ruts. Couple times I had to stop and let the bike slide back down brake on for several metres in order to gain traction again and get going. But I made it okay.
Time to head back up and over the hills
Views along the trail back towards Ban Mae Sam Laep
Finally over the hills and back by the Salween south of Mae Sam Laep
At Ban Mae Mae Sam Laep
North side of Ban Mae Sam Laep
Back at Ban Mae Sam Laep I decided to check the road north or the village leading to Tha Ta Fang on the banks of Salween. But I was running out of time and realised some of the cracks and ruts on the road were wide and deep as grand canyon so better leave it till next time. Plus it was getting a tad late in the afternoon and I was indeed tired.
So back to Mae Sariang and more beers and some nosh at the Ching Ching cafe as I was very pleased with what I had just done.
Some more tourism promoting street art at Mae Sariang
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