The border crossing was straightforward. It took maybe an hour and a half. On the way back it took about an hour and three-quarters on the way back. If I knew the ins and outs I could have done it quicker.
Cost of leaving Thailand / entering Laos
Customs fee Thailand 200 B
Customs fee Laos 200 B
Visa on arrival Laos $35
Insurance one week 150 B
The insurance agent is in a booth facing Counter 8 (Customs) of the Laos govt building. This building is 150 m after the border gate on the right up some steps.
Cost of entering Thailand / leaving Laos
Immigration fee Laos 10,000 Kip
Night 1 Tat Fane Resort between Pakse and Paksong. 1000 B a night. Bungalows in forest by Tat Fane waterfall. Very nice but a bit of a luxury for me. No running water until 8 o'clock in the morning. No explanation.
Tat Fane to Attapeu via Sekong. Passed a lot of Versys's all with aluminium panniers coming the other way. Think it was a Thai club. I am not sure if I could have used the direct route, east - west, from Paksong. Some locals in Paksong suggested I couldn't so I went the long way round via Sekong.
Night 2 Attapeu, Keo Mangorn Guesthouse. 90,000 Kip a night. This guesthouse is less than a km east of the bridge. Tired old rooms. Neither complaining about it nor recommending it. Nice restaurant attached to guesthouse but noisy till about 10:30. Staff are unable to control their urge to sit on your bike. Cover it.
Attapeu to Vietnamese border and then back to Tat Lo. The last 50 kms before the border have frequent gravel sections and potholes. East of Attapeu many shops and businesses speak only Vietnamese, not Laos, it seems. Before the border, the Laos Army asked where my "caravan" was. I replied that I am the caravan. It seems the Versys club of the day before had created a cultural precedent. A flock of wreathed hornbills flew overheard. Whoosh, whoosh, whoosh.
Night 3. Tat Lo, Silprasert Resort. 600 B a night for big room. The balcony is a restaurant so be aware of that if you want to sleep before the diners and drinkers retire. The resort overlooks the falls and the river.
Tat Lo to Jampasak. Stopped in Pakse on the way for some anti-emetic pills and some immodium. Crossed the Maekhong by boat with a group of off-roaders doing a tour. Riding a road bike on and off the boat, on the sand of the banks of the Maekhong was not a planned event but I got away with it. Visited Wat Phu Jampasak.
Night 4 Suchitra Guesthouse, Jampasak. 500 B a night. Very peaceful and beautiful on the banks of the Maekhong. I was the only person there.
Jampasak to border. The road running up the west of the Maekhong is built to Thai standards and is in very good condition at this time.
At the border, I bought a six-pack of Beer Lao Dark for 180 Baht. I am sure it is not quite as good as it used to be a few years back.
I'll see if I can dig out some photos.