ok, people. i just forced my friend to join this board with the details.N he said he dug this up from http://lists.state.gov/SCRIPTS/WA-USIAI ... &O=D&P=514. So much for me being a member here. laugh.
the photos are missing though.
CROSSING BORDERS
GENERAL
All border crossings must be at a legal international crossing where you can get a passport stamped / visa validated and motorcycle temporarily imported.
Legal international border crossings should not be confused with local border trading places, where local residents cross the border on either their ID cards or local day passes.
At local border trading passes it is sometimes possible for foreigners to cross, but remember that you are NOT legally in the country and free to continue. You are in the country illegally, both personally and with your bike, and leaving yourself open to serious trouble.
If it is up-country you could be stopped a local official who can demand whatever he wants or lock you up as he please. Who is going to know? Your bike might might even be confiscated and you don't need this complication.
I've seen it a few times in both Thailand and Laos - riders who thought they were clever sneaking into the country, but when they tried to leave they could not produce any papers to show that the bikes were legally imported. The Customs officials were not impressed and neither were the riders when they had to pay a hefty fine to leave. So don't be a smart arse, but play it wise and safe, and make sure all your border crossings are at legal international crossings where you get your bike import papers properly stamped.
CROSSING WITH A BIKE
To actually cross an international border with a motorcycle you need a passport and a bike. (Not as silly as it sounds.)
1. Passport: this should be valid & have the appropriate visa if necessary (if the rental shop has your passport as security for the bike then you can't cross the border.) Note: Entering Laos they like your passport to be valid for at least another 6 months, as one poor SQ tour leader found out in late 2005.
2. Bike: you need to prove it's "real", not stolen & have valid docs to support this = proof of ownership, the bike licence / registration, valid insurance. If you can't produce these then you're in for a tough time trying to get out of Thailand !
If the bike is not in your name or rented, then you need permission from the owner to legally export the bike. Click here for info on taking a bike out that is not registered in your name. Note that this works 99% of the time, but that remaining 1% is hard to take if you get caught short. You've been warned!
3. Motorcycle driving licence (although this is very seldom asked for.)
DOCUMENTS DEPARTING THAILAND
You need to complete papers for both Customs and Immigration.
Do the Customs papers first. Get the temporary bike export approved, then clear immigration.
1. Ownership If the bike is not in your name then you need to provide permission from the owner to legally take the bike out of the country. See image 2 in the docs gallery.
2. Customs need a Temporary Export / Import form (Official name = Simplified Customs Declaration Form for a car and motorcycle temporarily imported or exported.) See image 7 in the docs gallery. You can get this from the customs office at the border. If you're leaving with a bike from o/seas then you just need to hand in the temporary import form you got at the border on arrival.
The temporary export is usually valid for just a month, and there is supposedly a fine of 200 baht a day, with a maximum of 2,000 baht if you come back late. However experience has taught me that enforcement is sometimes arbitrary and probably depends on the duty officers financial needs at the time. Some of them also like to threaten you with a huge fine as stipulated in the temporary import / export form. In my case this is 420,000 baht for a 1995 model Honda 750 Africa Twin. Personally I think it is all a bit of a game of bluff, but it can be a bit stressful at the time.
3. Immigration two forms are needed. These are (a) TM2 Information of Conveyance. See image 1 in the docs gallery. (b) TM4 Crew List. See image 8 in the docs gallery. Get these forms at the the border office.
These might seem a bit silly if you’re just riding solo on bike, but you do need them. The completed original of these forms is kept at the departure port and you are supposed to hand in copies of the same 2 forms at the arrival port when you come back in.
Experience has taught me that you are not always asked for these on your return, and often when you depart some slack immigration staff don't ask you to complete the forms!
But be warned there is a fine for not having the forms on your return and some immigration staff love it when you don't have completed copies with you. I've had several runs with border staff over this and either way you never seem to win - it's up to them & their mood of the day. Note too that I've yet to pay a fine, so I consider myself lucky.
Overall completing these forms on departure is relatively easy & cost free, provided your bike papers & passport are in order. The customs fees are only stamp duty and there is no fee for the immigration forms. My biggest troubles have been when returning to Thailand and some smart immigration / customs officer has found something wrong with the forms and wants to make life difficult so he can touch you up for money. This can all be just a game of bluff, but it can be a bit stressful at the time. You've be warned.
THE CROSSINGS
Thailand / Malaysia / Singapore are relatively easy and hassle free, provided your passport, visa, bike registration and ownership papers are all in order. Allow ½ - 1 hour maximum to clear the border each time.
Singapore / Malaysia the legal "land border" crossings are:
1. The Causeway: Woodlands (S) / Johore Bahru (M)
2. The Second link: Tuas (S) / Tanjong Kupang (M)
Of these two the Second link is faster and easier.
Thailand / Malaysia the legal land border crossings are:
1. Sadao (T) / Changloon (M)
2. Padang Besar (T) / Kaki Bukit (M)
3. Betong (T) / Keroh (M)
4. Sungai Golok (T) / Rantau Panjang (M).
Thailand / Laos the seven legal ones are:
1. Chiang Khong (T) / Huay Sai (L)
2. Thai Li (T) / Nam Hueng (L)
3. Nong Khai (T) / Friendship Bridge , Vientiane (L)
4. Bung Kan (T) / Pakxan (L)
5. Mukdahan (T) / Savannakhet (L)
6. Nakhon Phanom (T) / Tha Khek (L)
7. Chong Mek (T) / Vang Tao, Pakse (L)
Use Chiang Khong (T) / Huay Sai (L), only if you want to start off in Laos on a rough jungle dirt road; but if you don't have much dirt experience, don't start here, go into Laos from Nong Khai (T) / Friendship Bridge (L). Or take the boat downstream, from Huay Sai to Pak Beng.
Entering / Departing Laos Notes
1. Friendship Bridge : may or may not be open to bikes. After several years open to motorcycles, Lao authorities (Ministry of Transport) in Vientiane "closed" the bridge to motorcycles without warning in Feb 2006. Two months later it was ok for foreign (non Thai) registered bikes to enter & currently it is only Thai bikes that are not allowed in at "the bridge" (all other border crossings are ok.) Watch the GT Rider message board for the latest info on the Friendship Bridge crossing. If you’re on a Thai registered motorcycles & can’t get in at the bridge, then the next nearest international entry port is Pakxan (150 kms downstream from Vientiane ) / Bung Kan (120 kms downstream from Nong Khai) where in July 2006 it was still ok to enter Laos . Note too that if you gain entry to Laos at another border crossing it is possible to leave via the Friendship Bridge . Weird isn't it!
2. Huay Sai - Luang Nam Tha: the jungle road is not recommended two-up, as almost guaranteed you'll come off, at least once, somewhere along the way. This is also not recommended in the wet, unless you looking for 180 kms of wet greasy muddy roads.
Note that this "road" is currently under re-construction & scheduled to be an asphalt road, possibly by early 2007. Depending on the road works at the time, it could be either slightly good or very bad when you use it - and that will just be the luck of the day.
3. The Mekong Boat Trip: Huay Sai - Pak Beng, the Mekong river in this section is arguably the most beautiful of the 'Khong between Jinhong in China & Ho Chi Minh in Vietnam . It can be a perfect start / finish to any motorcycle trip in Northern Laos . Highly recommended, hire a boat & do the 'Khong, you won't regret it. Getting your bike on & off the boat is enormous fun too.
4. Nam Hueng / Tha Li. Entering Laos at the new Nam Hueng crossing is probably not possible just on arrival. Permits have to be issued from the district office several kms inside Laos . It is however no trouble to exit here.
See the GT Rider message board for more info & photos on this crossing.
See the GT Rider message board for the latest info on entering / leaving Laos .
Laos / China only at Boten (L) / Mohan (C). However China now refuse entry to bikers without the appropriate travel documents and permits, which have to be issued by the authorities inside China . The exact documentation required is somewhat unclear, but it appears as if you must at least have Chinese vehicle registration, insurance and driving (riding) licence; (plus guide / escort?) and these are not available at the border. This all a bit too tricky - how do you get these on the border, "outside" China . So you can scrub China off your riding list for the time being.
Laos / Vietnam there are five legal ones:
1. Dene Savan: Route 9E from Savannakhet in Laos to Lao Bao (V)
2. Na Phao: Route 12 from Tha Khek east to Vietnam . Note NO Laos visa on a arrival. You can only exit Laos from here.
3. Nam Pao: Route 8 in Laos from Thakek / Vieng Kham to Lak Xao to Cau Treo (V).
4. Namkhan: Route 7 from Phonsavan via Nong Het in Laos to Nam Can (V). Opened in Jan 2003.
5. Nam Xoi. Route 6A from Xam Nua via Vieng Xai in Laos to Nam Xoi (V). Opened in April 2004.
Note Dien Bien Phu: there are 2 local border crossings from Dien Bien Phu in Vietnam to Laos . But despite the rumours, these are not open to foreigners and fully international. You've be warned!
One crossing goes into Muang Khua in Phongsali province, & the other into Luang Prabang province. The Luang Prabang province crossing in Laos is called Na Sone, & the Phongsali crossing in Laos is supposedly Taichang. If someone actually gets out here & is able to check out this crossing, please email me some news with the official port names.
Keep your eye on the GT Rider Message Board for the latest info. Rumour has it that they may open sometime in early 2007, but don't count on it.
Vietnam Warning since late April 2002, bikes over 175 cc have been refused entry into the country. If you got in before then, you are lucky. I am not aware of a any way around the current blanket ban, but if you know something please let me know so I can pass on the word. Frank Butler, alias Mr Beem snuck in via Cambodia via Phom Den (C) / Chau Doc (V) in early 2004, but this I feel was a one-off trip & with officials who were not totally familiar with the rules, & definitely has not been repeated since.
If you do get in be sure of your paperwork, as there still can be problems: Africa Twin rider, Chan KP from Singapore had a nasty little experience in July 2000, after entering Vietnam at Nam Phao (L) / Cau Treo (V). On his way out at Lao Bao the Vietnamese customs refused to let him leave the country as he had no inward Customs Baggage Declaration form (from Cau Treo). Caught in a difficult situation, he was held at the border for 6 days, during which time his visa also expired. He was only able to "escape" after the Singapore embassy in Hanoi intervened on his behalf. So be warned both entering and leaving Vietnam can be tricky. To see what the required nasty little Baggage Form looks like click here.
In Jan 2002,Chan sent in another report: "We entered Laos through Nakhon Phanom / Tha Khek & Vietnam through Nam Phao / Cau Treo. Route 8 had improved somewhat as compared to my last visit, all tarmac with some isolated potholes. As usual, the road is strewn with fallen rocks & boulders from the cliff sides. The Lao customs at Tha Khek physically checked our bike's chassis & engine numbers against our registration cards but never issued us any customs form.
We had no problem exiting Laos at Nam Phao but the Cau Treo(VN) customs wanted to have the Laos customs form for the bikes as proof that our bikes had entered & left Laos legally. After 5 hrs of waiting & talking to several officers on both sides of the border, the shift leader of the Cau Treo Customs arrived for work & made things work for us. All we need to do is fill up our bike's particulars on the temporary import declaration column of the Immigration Form, simple as that. That's exactly what I did the last time I entered Vietnam at the same border but still I'd problem getting out of Vietnam at Lao Bao. So I was still rather apprehensive if this will allow us to exit Vietnam without any problem. We just hoped that the Customs at Moc Bai will be more forthcoming when we exit Vietnam to enter Cambodia .
We spent 8 days in Vietnam , going South from Ha Tinh to Ho Chi Minh city . The customs procedure at Moc Bai turns out to be smooth & straight forward, just that we need to fill out another immigration form with the bike's particulars, that's all. Unexpectedly, the Bavet Customs wanted us to have official document, such as the Carnet, as guarantee that we'll not sell the bikes in Cambodia illegally. We talked all the way up till the Chief of Customs & Excise of the Svay Rieng Province 44km from the border. It was a weekend but I managed to contact the 2nd secretary of the S'pore Embassy at Phnom Penh to fax us a letter of assistance for the Customs Chief. This done the trick but still we need to spend one night at Svay Rieng as we'd wasted 7 hrs & the ferry across the Mekong towards Phnom Penh has stopped operation for the day."
Cambodia / Vietnam there are two land border crossings:
1. Bavet (C) / Moc Bai (V)
2. Phom Den (C) / Chau Doc (V)
But these are not much good to you if you can't even enter Vietnam with your bike.
If you know anything new, please email me.
Cambodia / Laos Independent travellers are now crossing the border between Cambodia (Stung Treng) and Veun Kham in Laos . This crossing is still not a designated legal international crossing, but officials either side in the nearby towns of Stung Treng (C) and Veun Kham (L) are stamping passports.
In Jan 2003, KTM Rider Harry Forster, was able to cross with his bike from Laos to Cambodia . According to Harry the "official" port names stamped in his passport are Dongkalaw (L) and Dong Crorlor (C).
Check out the GT Rider board for another report with photos.
China / Vietnam There are three (according to Jean Marc, Oct 2001): Dong Dang (V) / Huu Nghi (C) and Lao Cai (V) / Hekou (C), Mong Cai (V) / Dongxing (C). In late 2000? Belgian Philip on a Transalp tried 5 different crossings between Vietnam and China , and failed to get into China , so it aint easy. If anyone has anyone has more info email me.
Thailand / Cambodia there are six legal land border crossings:
1. Aranyaprathet (T) / Poipet (C)
2. Hat Lek (T) / Pak Khlong - Koh Kong (C)
3. Kap Cheong, Surin (T) / O Smach (C)
4. Chong Sa Ngam (T) / Anlong Veng (C)
5. Ban Pagkard. Chantaburi (T) / Phsa Prum, Pailin (C)
6. Ban Laem, Chantaburi (T) / Daun Lem, Battambang (C)
Use the Aranyaprathet crossing to go to Angkor Wat. In Dec 2001, Honda XL600 rider Harri Saharinen (expat in Korat) sent in this report:" border 1/2 hour, Cambodians wanted a carnet as a Dutch guy had gone thru a few weeks ago with one, but I convinced them that Thai bikes don't need one and they just stamped the back of the Thai export paper, different to the last time when they issued an import paper and even checked the chassis and frame numbers. Poipet to Siem Reap is now 1 1/2 hrs, the road ha been improved greatly, none of the bridges are down, and even an Africa Twin might get thru without any problems. Siem Reap to Phnom Phen is 5 hrs flat out, some sections 120 kph new tar, but mostly crap, better off riding on the side of the road. Korat - PP, 687 kms, 10 hrs."
Use Hat Lek / Koh Kong if you want to hit the beach at Sihanoukvile and have an easy ride onto Phnom Phen.
Use Kap Cheong / O Smach in you're looking for a bit of rough road to start off with in Cambodia .
Use Chong Sa Ngam / Anlong Veng if you want a testing dirt ride down to Angkor Wat.
Watch the GT Rider board for the latest info on entering / riding in Cambodia .
Thailand / Myanmar ( Burma ) the legal international land border crossings are:
1. Mae Sai (T) / Tachilek (M)
2. Mae Sot (T) / Myawaddy (M)
For bikers however, these are not viable options for touring Myanmar , as travel permits for individual riders are not yet generally available, and who knows when it will become a reality?
Note (1) that there is a 3rd legal crossing from Ranong (T) to Victoria Point (M), in the south of Thailand . This however, is not a land border crossing, but a sea crossing by boat.
Note (2) that in August 2004 Simon & Suzi Harby riding an Africa Twin & a Transalp, rode from India via Nagaland & Manipur, thru Burma & into North Thailand at Mae Sai. This was a world first, but is most likely going to remain a one-off trip & not be repeated for a long time. Check out Simon & Suzi's site for info & their trip report. Also take a look at the GT Rider board report.
Take a look at the Borders Directory and Borders Map for guides to legal international land border crossings in the area.
EXPERIENCE
If you have no experience of riding in Asia and / or crossing international borders, alone, on a motorcycle, do yourself a favour and make a 2-3 week tour of North Thailand and the Golden Triangle to familiarize yourself with the area and the conditions first. In S E Asia, one of the main complications is communication - the locals don't speak much English and you probably can't speak, read or write the local language either. So, how will you converse and deal with an unhelpful official at the border, who is perhaps not so familiar with all the rules and maybe not so interested in your problem? Riding here, is not like riding in the EU or Americas , where you can at least read the language, if not speak it, and the rules are generally clear and available. So get some experience under your belt, before you seriously consider whether you are ready to tackle touring the newer frontiers of S E Asia. If you think you are, then come back next year, don't attempt these trips without experience. Note that riding in Singapore / Malaysia / Thailand is quite easy and straightforward
just in case. check with the embassy for latest developments.
] la-di-da! for a someone who knows nuts about bikes or road trips.. pretty good, huh?
