1 Girl on 2 Wheels

Jade

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Feb 25, 2003
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The 1st time I rode in Thailand, I followed a gentleman I accidentally met in Daytona Beach Bike Week 2002 whom was kind enough to let me tagged along this past February 2003, for 2 weeks. I didn't keep any notes on routes, places we ate, drank or slept. I never figured I would be back here again.

Laid off in USA & before I return to full-time employment, I had to come back to Thailand for a month. Affordable for my limited budget & the smiling Thai faces, unlike the glooming Americans on anti-depressants, not wanting to travel out of the USA or even riding out of their own city. I felt safe last time, nor did I need a companion this time around. Riding solo, I have to admit I had to do a lot of research since I didn't take notes previous. I didn't think if was necessary to buy a mobile either. David Unkovich's GT Rider web page & message board is very informative if you take the time to read & take notes.

I rented a Yamaha TTR 250 in Feb. 2003 from Joe & Tom's Goodwill Motorcycle shop in CM. I rented from them again, mainly because they're reliable & would come rescue me if I ever had major mechanical problems I couldn't fix & both adoreable men. I passed on the Yamaha & took the Honda 250. My male friend in US whom never been out of the country, came over for a few days & took the Yamaha he wanted to do some dirt bike riding. I admit, I straight street rider only. Although in Thailand, I would never rent a street bike.

Each morning in CM we ate at Bier Stube for breakfast, best omelets. Mainly drank at Rudy's Sax bar. After leaving on bike runs & finding your way back to camp isn't always easy. I always followed the moat until I found Thapae Gate. I knew I was close to bed. Quite funny, Joe said every one has a hard time finding their place. I always found Joe's place when riding trying to find my lodging. If I found Joe's place, I was only a street over & very close.

1st night we stayed at Sarah's GH (350bt). I wasn't happy, a source told us to stay at Veerachai Court (400bt), nice enough for me. I'll be staying here each time I make a pit stop in CM. We ate dinner at John's bar/restaurant (south a couple blocks from Rudy's Sax bar.) Met a sweet little 8yr old selling flowers named "Aye". She spoke English, Burma & Thai. I spent a 100bt & used the roses to do her hair & her friends. All the farangs telling me their beggars, well yaw & I know that, but what is a 100bt to make a few poor girls happy for the night. I told her to be here tomorrow night so I can take her to a show (Simon's Dream) & dinner w/my Thai girlfriends (whom works at PP Air Travel @ Airport/Thapae Rd. - Great Service!)

The following night "Aye" showed up on time waiting there in her nicest outfit with her sister & brother also. I laughed. My girlfriends said that Simon's Dream let the kids in free cas' they never met a farang bringing in uncleaned kids to the show. Something they will never see again, tis true. After the show we all ate at The Riverside. No matter how smart "Aye" is, my Thai friends thought same but told me she can't read. Whatever the fish my friends ordered was excellent. The little ones ate like it was going to be their last meal. I don't doubt it either. I returned them to John's restaurant, their Burma mother waiting to put the kids to work to sell flowers. She gave me 2 photos of her kids & had "Aye" tell me thank me for giving her children they never had before. Nice lady, I will miss them.

1st riding day we rode up to Doi Suthep. Easily done in half a day. This is a must to do ride for any visitor. You'll see a rail block crossing you'll think you have reached the end. Either you can ride around it (no security), go back the same way you came in or turn right & take the dirt roads. I remember doing this route in Feb. & I hate dirt roads but I wanted to see if I could do it this time around w/o falling down, I succeeded! At times, you'll seem like you are lost when the dirt roads come to a Y. Take your chances, you never know which one is right. We finally came out to Huai Tung Tao Reservoir. Aww, back to pavement. Neck & shoulder muscles are finally lightening up.

2nd day we rode around not really having a destination. We went to Tard Mork Falls (on David's map) real nice & quite romantic place. We rode on to Mae Sa Falls. Local picnic place it seems for Thais on a Sunday. Later we ate at Meow's place (Rim Viang Pub) where she sings. Beautiful voice she has. I wish I could have remembered from before but pass out from being jet legged. Wasn't a very pleasant sight that night where she sings!!

3rd day we took off to Pai. Took Routes 107 No. Turned left in Mae Rim towards Nong Pia Man a back road to 1095 & also to get away from fumes. On the way, we stopped at a place for soup only choice. What kind of noodle or rice do you want in it? After my friend took a few chews & swallows, I said; "do you like the white meatballs?" He said they're tasteless but the soup was excellent. I told him he was eating boar balls. He lost his appetite fast!

When we arrived in Pai, we stayed at Rim Pai Cottages, in Bungalow #8. My friend thought he was Alice in Wonderland. It is such a delightful place on the river. Ate at Pai Corner (not sure, but wasn't on the corner). Drank at The Golden Triangle Bar. They seated up on the bed as you walked in to the left. Have to admit it was very relaxing drinking alcoholic coffee drinks whilst lying down. I could tell they wanted to close up @ 11pm, so we went outside to finish up our drink. I met this 32yr old Thai cutie outside by the fire named Skai. He's opening up a new pub in Pai soon called "Popular." He has a great sense of humor along with speaking English.

Next morning before leaving, I went to get my 1st Thai massage at "Dam Thai" on the river road. Her name is Meow. I let her beat me up. She kept saying "ok?" I looked & said "ok." Whilst she was doing my right foot it cramped up & I showed her my toes twisting. (she didn't speak English). She saw what I meant & started slapping my foot around w/her hand. It worked!

4th day a short ride to Soppong so friend can go dirt bike riding. We stayed at Little Eden GH. A very unique place. I love everything they had to offer besides the hard mattress. I slept on the beautiful patio on the river that night. We ate dinner & breakfast there. Dirt roads we took after checking in was a road went to Ban Tham (on David's map). Friend went on so I didn't have to collect his dust in my face. I sat & drank water whilst the village people sat & stared at me. I just kept smiling trying to make conversation, but they kept laughing. Thinking he's far enough ahead of me, I hopped on my bike & the women pointed down the road he went & shook her head "no" at me. That told me, it isn't going to be very nice rode. I came to a steep downward hill. I had to stop and analyze how in the hell am I going to do this without falling down. If I hit just one rut, I'm done in. My holiday is just beginning & not wanting it to end so soon. In a deep trance, this Thai guy comes up next to me on a moped w/no tread on his tires & said; "chok dee ka" with a gleaming smile. Yeah right, I said. I watched him & thought, I can't be that much of a whoosie! I went no faster than 10k but I balanced very good shaking on the way down, I was in desperate need for a pill to chill.

Met up with friend in Ya Pa Nae. I told him; I need a break. He went on to Huai Hang. Whilst I was waiting all these Thai dirt biker come flying by me. They stopped to see if I was ok. I said yes & said told them this crapped scares the hell out of me. They laughed. Any hoot, they said there is much more dirt road past Saen Khum Lue on David's map. Very good dirt roads on map, but you'll find many more if you searched. Didn't matter to me. I had no intentions looking. (These Thai guys are very serious Dirt Bike Riders. Some live in Ban Tham, others in Huai Hang if you want to look them up. Fun guys! For the ones who love dirt, they said to follow David's route South of Mae Hong Son to Doi Pui to Huai Bong onto Mae Ruam down to Mae Hoi) Any way, my friend & I rode on to Mae Lana onto Route 1226. Map looks paved, but I think not!!! When we arrived back to Little Eden. I went straight to the bar for a Singha!!!!

Next morning, friend had issues to take care of back in the states. He was unsure returning to CM by himself but hey you have to learn sometime. I gave him my map & we said our good-byes.

I started heading down to Mae Hong Son & stopped at a rocking pit stop area for a pee break. Sure enough the Thai Tourist Police stops. Two girls get out of the SUV & asked if I was ok + lots of questions about me being alone on big bike, do I feel safe, blah, blah. I told them how my friend was on his way back to CM that he's never been in Thai before. They put out a distressed call to the other Tourist Police if they see lost American on Yamaha help him out. We all laughed, they loved the fact I left a man. They shared their lunch with me, we talked, laughed some more until we were in tears. They spoke English good. Later I became good friends with Yae & Poom.

Now on my own to Mae Hong Son & beyond for the next 3 weeks, let the SANUK ka begin.....[:)]

P.S. (Thanks to David & Bob for helping my friend in CM & to the airport when he returned.)
 

Jade

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Feb 25, 2003
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Now that the weight of the heavy cross I was carrying was lifted off my shoulders I began my journey around Thailand.

From the many Thai girls & boys whom I have talked with said they have never seem a tall girl on BIG bike riding alone in Thailand. I’m starting to believe each mile I rode.

Everyone stares at you; some stop dead in their footsteps with hands on their hip to take a 2nd look. Some will yell & wave at you (even with their left hand) thumbs goes up, you’ll will see so many smiles each mile. Men will pucker their lips to send you a kiss. Always smile like it is your last, you’ll never see so many smile with shining teeth. The Thai’s are so very happy to see you. They know I am a Venus, I always have bright pink lips. Never feel like you are a freak. Thai’s are amazed & very ecstatic to see you. You’ll be asked at a fuel station to have a seat knowing that neither of us can converse due to language barriers. I don’t have BLUE eyes, rather pale boring Grey. They are all so interested to look in my eyes. All they see is dull boring brown eyes in their town.

I have no apprehension riding in Northern Thailand on my own. I rather feel much safer here than in the States. No matter what back road you may take, always remember there is always somebody near. When you need to take a leak, someone maybe across the hill having a thrilling peak.

Always learn beginner’s Thai language (free on Internet). They appreciate you know some Thai. Tones really aren’t necessary, as long as you can pronounce a word close enough. They’ll correct you either way if you are wrong & laugh that you tried. Most know English or even limited amounts. If neither understands one another use you hands in a soft way almost like sign language. (i.e. need hotel/GH put both hands together on the side of your head then bend your head. You’ll hear “OK” & fingers start pointing). Never must you feel lost. If you stop for help, you not only get help from one, if he/she doesn’t understand he/she will call everyone over. One will eventually understand you. I’ve learned I cannot look at the sun as I do in the States to lead me in the right direction. Siam sun can be very equivocal. If you don’t make destination before dusk all the buggers come out.

If you ever get lost, never ask for directions to your destination city, only to the nearest city/village, which should be next on your designated route. I eventually figured out what “Ban” means. David’s GT map says “Ban”, thanks David. Once out from his map using another map you never see “Ban” again. Forget when the road sign may say “Ban Nam Phang”, your map only says “Nam Phang”. “Ban” I learned means “small/little” city/village. Explain later why I say this……I was totally off of planned route.

To me, whenever you arrive into your destination city it reminds me of NYC, all same/same. LOST!! By the time you figure out the roads & getting around, it’s time to depart.

Mid-November, Thai’s may call the season “winter” for them, but it is so dang “HOT” for me. I can’t even imagine what hot season is for them. Has to be miserable. I asked the 2 Tourist Police girls they’re opinion on dress attire for female in Thai & they replied it is “OK” not to wear bra, “OK” to wear tank top w/built in bra, “OK” to wear shorts, “OK” for a lot of things a girl is allowed to do. Thai’s will not look down on you in a derogatory female way. They said to always carry T-shirt in case you may want to visit a temple.

So since the heat was too intense for me, I opted to ride w/o helmet & tank top; my choice, no regrets to this day; still in Thai. (Mae Sa Long @ moment). As long as my burned Disco CDs are blaring in my ears, the miles I can ride sometimes forgetting to check fuel. I did bring over a donut pillow from Walgreen’s for $12.00. Saves my bum most of the time, not always.

From February to November 2003, I noticed the lack of tourists. Never any problem finding room, less people on roads, fabulous for me. Whenever I do return to Thai it will always be mid-Nov – Dec vs. Feb.

Time allotted, I can’t stand the slowwwwwwwww Internet, and I’ll type every route, G/H, restaurant, city to next. All the smiling faces saying to me “~SUAY!" Greeting me with joy in their eyes….
[:)]
 

Susan

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Oct 17, 2003
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Jade,

Sounds like you're having a great ride in Northern Thailand. I'm the woman who connected with you by e-mail briefly a month ago before I left for Laos.

I'm on a 250 Hinda Baja and my 4-weeks alone riding in Northern Laos have been so wonderful that I've extended another 15 days to be able to keep this incredible sojourn going. I especially like the remote areas, where the roads get rough and there's only water buffalo, craggy mountains, and the grrrrrr of my Bella Baja for company.

I'm a tall, long haired, American woman and I know what you're talking about when you mention the stares of disbelief on the faces as you remove your helmet and the villagers realize....your female! It's a rush! I love the smiles, waves and laughter that ALWAYS follow. Happy trails to you, Miss Jade. Maybe we can ride together sometime....remove our helmets at same time...and really shock-um! Susan
 

Jade

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Feb 25, 2003
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I forgot to add in last report, these Thai girls/ladies/boys/men said to me so many time in different places, no foreigners ever speaks to them. I cannot express enough to chat to them. They want to hear you talk. They rarely ever leave the city they live in. They love to hear about your life even though they only understand so much.

When I rode thru downtown Mae Hong Son I’m thinking I know where I want to stay, but where in the hell is the place. I printed off a picture of the place I stayed previously & asked a few Thai’s; no one had a clue where on the river. I feel like I’m back in US small town city, all saying “I don’t know”. I think to myself; how long have they lived here? One Thai girl did know where. She was kind enough to let me follow to the location. It’s called the “Rim Nam”-Glang Doi, So. of town it’s on David’s map, dah!! I love that place. This boy, well probably 25+ comes running & helps me w/bags off bike so delighted to see me again. Previously time, went across the river to put 16 candles across the river for me.

By the time everyone wants to talk to you & me unload it was apprx. 2:30pm when I set off to see the Long Necks family past Nai Soi. I did pretty good getting to Nai Soi, after that I definitely went the wrong way. Still on pavement, I do remember crossing a river. I see Thai sign going up a dirt road & figured well maybe that’s the way. Very bad dirt road, well at least for me. I kept on riding thinking I’ll find the river I remember I crossed before. A Thai man walks out from the heavily jungle area. I do my best in explaining & he understood. He drew a map in the dirt road which way to go. I’m thinking, NO, I don’t want to go back down that dirt hill. Any ways, I made it back down only to realize after you ride thru Nai Soi there’s a “Y”. It obvious I can’t read plan ENGLISH – Long Necks sign going the other way. I rode to the end, passing the river crossing. You'll sign in pay your 250 BT (which none goes to them) & I walked in to find the family I met in Feb. Sure enough I found the 18y old girl “Majon” & her mother “Maetay”. Majon was up on her balcony & she ran down the stairs. We gave huge hugs & kisses. I was so very happy to see her once again. She took me in to see her mother whom wasn’t feeling well. Majon speaks I think 5 languages. Her mother was sick. They have no means of medicine. I wasn’t planning on staying another day in Mae Hong Son but told Majon I’ll go back in town & get some penicillin & come back the next day. By the time I left it was getting dusk, no eye glasses for nite hours. So I had to ride w/my prescription sunglasses.

Sure enough, I got lost back to Mae Hong Son. The cement road I taken was over grown w/jungle life. I knew this road had to go somewhere. Along that rode I see a large bird coming down towards me from a distance. The f*cker actually hit me on the side of my helmet, I couldn’t believe it! I rode on finally came to a “T” in the road & ask; “Mae Hong Son”, they point to the right direction.

I’m hungry so I stop @ Fern’s Restaurant. Obviously, you can tell that’s where all the buses take the tourist. Ate something small, 2 Singha’s to go & left. I arrive back at GH around 10pm. The boy came running over to take my tank bag back to my bungalow.

Next morning I went into Mae Hong Son & found the penicillin & Alka-seltzer the mother needed. I HATE SHOPPING!! Happened to see an optical shop to see if they had frames to fit my lenses. (Broke other ones) Sure enough they did ½ the cost in the States. Majon wanted blue eyes like me & I asked them if they had blue contacts w/o prescription, sure did.

No problem finding the refugee camp they live in this time around. Mother was very grateful & Majon was ever so happy she had blue eyes. The whole group (long necks) came over to see. I stayed there the whole day w/the family. They fixed me dinner rather good, but I couldn’t eat the little fishes w/their eyes still looking at me. Met a 58yr old English Chap named Nicholas whilst there. We agreed to meet at Lakeside restaurant later that evening. Majon fell in love w/1 of my 3 sons & she wanted to keep his picture. She made him a video telling him how handsome he is for him to come see her. I could write a heck of a lot more regarding the truth of this camp what Majon & the mother told me, pitiful. Majon told me 4yrs ago she fell & needs a brain scan. She can’t hear out of her left ear. They won’t allow her out of the camp for help. They survive on their own. If you ever go out there, bring medications. I had a hard time leaving them. Thai police came in to get me. Majon walks me out wearing my sunglasses like she a movie star from Hollywood. Once again it was dusk when I left & sure enough I found another mistaken route.

As I rode into town I found Lakeside. Nicky wasn’t there so I left & walked around. I was on the main drag road in MHS & all of a sudden I hear my name Jade being yelled. There were the 2 Tourist Police girls. They ran across the street & said to come with them to a bar named “Crossroads” (on David’s map). They introduced me to the owner Mhoo, such a sharp dressed Thai guy. He’s a smooth cool dude. One of the girls said; isn’t that such a stupid name? She said she wants to kiss him. I couldn’t believe how many TALL Thai guys where in there. Mhoo making us White Russians drinks & one of the girls said; Jade you share a bottle of whiskey w/us? I never drank whiskey but said ok. I didn’t realize you have to buy a whole bottle a whiskey, not just a pour. Forgetting about Nicky, the girls used their mobile & called down at the Lakeside. Mhoo had one of his men ride me down to get my bike & Nicky. Nicky hopped on the back, moaning his legs aren’t long enough to hop on. English gent he was, I put my 2 hands together to give him a boost. He’s never been a bike. He joined right in w/the crowd. He talked all night with Rudy’s brother-in-law the whole time. Seems they had a lot in common. Mhoo played my disco for me for a while. Foreigners started coming in & Mhoo apologizes he has to stopped; he had good music either way.

Mhoo comes over to me & said; “Jade, you can have any of these Thai men for your boyfriend which one do you want?” Oh no I thought back I’m back in US for p/u bars….I said to him; “how much baht?” "Free" he said. They all started laughing. I pointed to the Thai boys & said; inee minnie, mynee, mow…I look @ Mhoo & said; “I want you”. He said; ah, but I have girlfriend in Pai. Ok I said I want none, but kob khun ka.

Later Mr. Antonio Baneras w/slightly slanted eyes struts in. Mhoo said; you like him don’t you. Lordy, can’t I just look? After the cheap whisky & the ride I still had ahead of me to G/H, I said my good-byes. The girls didn’t want me to leave & the boys gave me a hug & kiss good-bye. Mhoo kissed me on both cheeks then on my lips & “Yae” yells; Jade that kiss is for me! I tell ya, if my room was in town they’d all be walking me home that night. I had such a great time at Crossroads.

I arrived back @ Rim Nam around 1am. The boy was there again waiting for me. I told him no, no, not necessary to wait on me I’m ok; he said he wanted to make sure I was safe. He walks me down to room again & left. What a Gent!

Each night in Mae Hong Son I slept freezing, though the days were hot. I left all long sleeves in CM. In the morning, I had breakfast at GH & headed towards Doi Inthanon. It must have been 40 degrees riding. All the mutts were out in the streets sunbathing thinking they were on the beach of Phuket. Not one got up to move, they were enjoying the weather. When I turned on Route 1263, I decided not to go see the Sunflower as the girls told me to do so. I saw their pictures…Sunflowers to me so I rode on.

Out of no where, there was a mongrel mutt seemed to be a ½ brown Labrador but the face was an ugly Pug. I stopped & looked a little closer. So tempted to pull the string out in my bag & tie it around his nuts so they can drop later to stop the inbreeding in Thai. Knowing it was most probably somebody’s best friend I rode on.

I didn’t ride up to Doi Inthanon been there once, all in my head, same as temples. I do recommend most definitely seeing it & the temples, but the majority to me all looks the same as in Catholic Churches all around the world. I rode back to CM & same G/H. (This time around the only temple I was interested in seeing was the Grand Palace in BKK; which I did whilst in BKK.)

Left CM following morning to Nan for 2 days.

(in Internet room now, 1st Black man I seen, nice guy...Lordy, I hope he's not breeding over here....ooops, I'm wrong he has a beautiful Thai girlfriend). Yeah, I'm becoming an Expat, these Thai guys are at your beckon call over here & they're "free" if you're desperate for a man. Not like the demanding western men we know....Good Guys!!.....[;)]
 

Jade

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Feb 25, 2003
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Hi Susan,

They may think we queer if we took off our helmets together....Lolsss I think we're better off riding alone.....

~Jade
 

Jade

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Feb 25, 2003
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There are no road rules here in Thailand, anything goes. In the States, I would have been ticketed enough for them to pull my license for life. Always heads up! Cars in CM I believe really look for you, form of habit for them. Just go with the flow. Best to follow the mopeds, they know what they’re doing. If this was the US, plenty would be road kill by now. I wouldn’t doubt these people can ride a bike a heck of a lot better than most in the US.

I have noticed the Mae Hong Son loop or East you have to keep more alert than West towards Nan. Trucks/cars come around the sharp corner directly in your lane for no apparent reason. At times, you have to move quickly within your 5 feet of space between you & them. I always give them the advantage but always thinking of me.

From MHS to Mae Chaem going around a sharp corner there was a huge head on w/2 trucks. I stopped & asked if they needed help, I could tell it just happened. They said no. I couldn’t believe both trucks totaled, both windshields smashed & no body was bleeding…Simply amazing…Oh yes, riding thru Mae Chaem I saw the sh*t class Hotel I stayed passed Feb…why I rode on to CM.

On to Nan (NYC) the following day for 2 nights, I took Routes 11 / 1023 / 101. Stayed & ate @ Dhevaraj Hotel. I crashed for 11 hours. Nice soft bed for 400 BT including breakfast. Each morning the food was cold. My intended routes the next morning was to take 1168 / 1225 / 1169 / 1081 / 1080 back to Nan.

Somehow I got off track. I rode down 1168 / ? to Rom Klao. This is where you don’t see the word “Ban” on map. I sort of knew something was wrong cas’ the mile markers were all white w/no #s. It was a great road as I thought it was surely going to lead to some where. Nice pavement turned into cement, then gravel eventually I’m back on the dang dirt roads again. I noticed the electrical lines ended it seemed. I followed thinking I might as well check it out being this far out. The dirt road came to end. I felt as if I road into a cult compound. Not even a word from any kids laughing. I didn’t feel scared. I said; “sawadee ka”, no one said a word or any movement. I said; “Thailand”, still nothing only gapes not even a smile. I said; “Laos”, this one lady nodded slowly; no smiles the whole time. I said thank you in English turned around the road didn’t seem to go any father either way.

I was still in their village & I seen a hand made sign a few times that said 1241. I looked at my map & I knew damn well I wasn’t that far down south. When I arrived back onto the cement road, I walked over to the electrical lines trying to figure out where I was. No clues on the post like in US.

Rode out the way I came in & made another mistake taking Route 1168 to Nam Pun. This I have to admit was a fabulous road to the end & back. Makes me wonder why they have this beautifully paved road leading to no where literally.

Finally figuring out where Route 1225 was then took Route 1257 to 1081. Route 1257 was a dream road across the ridge of hills/mtns. Between Na Kham & Bo Klua, I couldn’t believe they still haven’t finished the construction on this road. I remember this construction site from last time cas’ I put on a show for the fellows falling down in the dirt. I succeeded this time not doing it once again.

Now 4pm, there was no way I could make it around the loop. I headed east on Route 1256 thru Doi Phukha Nat’l Park. My luck ½ way thru they threw down 4-6 inches of dirt spraying it with water. My 1st thought, I’m never going to get out of here in time before dusk. All tense up, thinking I’m on a poor guided tour to the Arctic Circle on the Dalton Highway they’re paving I rode slowly thru the mud.

I eventually got the hell out of the mess w/o falling took 1080 back to Nan. That night I ate at the Da Darios Italian restaurant & it wasn’t easy to find either David [I say Italy they say huh?] No more American food for me on this trip. It was ok, but I’m in Thai.

Another thing I want to point out is every town (besides CM) closes down by 6pm. It’s dark no doubt, but sometimes you go w/o eating. I just let the Singha fill my belly.

Next morning I left for Chiang Khong. Routes 1080 to Huai Kon 1st & gassed up. These people in this town were so nice. If I had the time, I would have loved to stay there. (I would have done the whole loop to 1081 thru the Nat’l Park, I just couldn’t deal w/the Alaska mud from yesterday. I went back to the Thai Border Police & asked in my best Thai if I could ride up to the border of Laos. They didn’t seem to understand why I would want to do that. I pulled out my passport & gave it to them & said I be right back. All these Thai Police guys are so lovable. You never have to worry at any time. Got my passport back & one Police pointed his finger on his cheek for a kiss. So funny….I gave all 4 a kiss on the cheek & took off with smiles.

South on Route 1080, I planned to cross over onto Route 1097 but no luck finding it in Chiang Klang. Even back tracked on bypasses, no signs. I rode down the bypass to catch the Route 1148 North. Sure enough this route had a clear sign that read "Route 1097". This is another must do road both ways! Wonderful ridge riding & the views are brilliant. When I arrived in Chiang Klang, I wander No. & So. No signs whatsoever for the 1097. If there are, I missed them. On the way back I stopped at the Tad Man waterfall, yep it looks like a waterfall, last one I plan on seeing during this trip.

Back on Route 1148 to Route 1021 in Chiang Kham, I was stopped by police cas’ a parade was about to begin. I have no idea what it was for. The whole city seemed to be in it (300+). All eyes looking at me as they walked by & I thought I have to get off this bike, less attraction for them. I stood in a corner up a few steps up from the bike & one of the girls/ladies said “hello America!” I smiled & waved, they all started waving. How she knew I was from US, I don’t know. I wasn’t wearing Red, White & Blue stripes.

I could see they were passing words down the rows of the parade. This man yelled; “marry me.” I took off my sunglasses & they all started blowing me Argentina kisses & I in return. I was smiling so much, my upper lip was sticking to my gums. Another man, said; “wait for me”. Yeah sure dude, I’m out of here as soon as police says I can go. This parade lasted 45 mins. I felt like a freak, but not. I remembered Majon (Long Neck) telling me it doesn’t bother her tourist coming in & looking at her. I had to think the same.

It was now 5pm, not good for me. I planned on taking Route 1155 but had to take Route 1020 to make good timing. Full throttle to Chiang Khong, in Chom Phu I passed a Patrol Police on a moped & I’m going 120ks. I thought utoh, but then he couldn’t catch me even if he wanted to.

Arrived in CK, city looks same/same again. I asked 3 times & finally found David’s #1 favorite Bungalow # 7 at Tam Mi La G/H & it was available. (I notice right next door to this G/H is the Huanthai Sophaphan “Teak House” Resort I stayed last Feb. Fond memories of this place, recommend this G/H as well.)

The lady owner & her sister wanted to talk & I only wanted to hit the sack. (You ride all day, bum tired & as always, only hard chairs to sit on when you get off) I told her David recommended her place on his website & she said; “Oh the Map man. He wants me to sell his Laos maps”. She also said for me to tell David she has 10 rooms & not only Bungalow #7, blah, blah….(FUNNY!)

Here I am with no alcoholic beverage in me, while one in hand to be opened. It’s dark carrying bags & I’m thinking how in the hell does David with drink in him make it down the stairs, his footsteps crossing the cobblestones & back up the stairs to Bungalow #7 without stumbling or falling down. GOOD BALANCING ACT DAVID!! I had to find my Coleman’s flashlight to find the light switch.

It is an exquisite sexy bungalow with mighty fine porch with burned candles telling me someone has been having seances, right on the Mekong river. Inside 3/4 of the walls were window with silk curtains. I had a very hard time undressing. I didn’t want to put on a show for the onlookers outside. I turned my small lantern on instead.

After shower, I searched for porch light & turned on, I didn’t scream, but I didn’t expect these buggers. My heart stopped. There were 2 - 10in + lizards on the wall. We all didn’t move. I didn’t mind the camellians @ Veerachai Court in CM, this was a startling matter. They should be in an aquarium @ the pet shop. I turned the light off & tried not to think of them.

Still on the porch, I’m brushing my hair out & this cat brings up a rat & lies under the bench by my door. 1st thought, I have no plans on smelling the odor in the morning so I chased the cat away. He out there in the garden actually playing the cat & mouse game. Poor rat was still alive.

All emotions drained around 7:30pm, I drag my behind up to the main road to find this Findley man pub. I walked up & down, no luck. No food being served…Large Singha please….

I went back & sat on the porch to watch the lights in Laos to go off @ 10pm. By 10:45pm, lights still on I went under my net. The owner said she wanted to come in & check if I was still alive following afternoon. She said I need to rest & stay another night which I did…It was passed 1pm.
 

Jade

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Feb 25, 2003
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I have to admit typing this is the last thing I want to do after riding all day. I take small notes then sometimes forget to add on here. Excuse any errors, I’m tired every time I type, humor sometimes leaves me. Sorry if any of this is boring. I hope you appreciate my time & efforts David!!

I neglected to point out a few things. All these roads are great riding roads. The men posting their opinions on gt-rider.com are exactly what they said. I copied and pasted a lot into MS Word for routes to take when I came over to Thailand. Why I don’t go so much into details of roads besides when it comes to dirt.

Neglected to mentsion in Pua; this town is little more than a place to fill your stomach and fuel but is nearby to Ban Pa Klang. Situated by a scenic lake it is a great place to buy excellent silver at wholesale prices. Expect to pay 40 – 50% less than you would in CM. To reach Ban Pa Klang from Pua take the turn-off to the Nat’l Park in Ban Hua Doi. You will take a sharp right turn after which there is a concrete road off to the right and slightly up hill. Take this road appr. 2-3 ks and you will come to a pretty lake. The silver shops are around the far side of the lake.

K, back to 2nd day in CK. During breakfast @ G/H sister told me to go get a Thai massage at “Chiang Khong Thai Msg” right up the alley from G/H & across the street to the right. Their names are Gonya & Nai. We loved trying to talked to one another….fun girls too. Nai said in her broken English, you need to stop going "room-room" all over Thai, why my right shoulder/neck all tight from holding grip, they even didn’t mind doing my bum either, nor did I ever have feeling I’m turning BI. They said to come back tomorrow morning & they take care of my neck & bum before I leave for Mae Salong, which I did.

It was so hot I could barely walk around CK. I went back & took a power nap waking up early enough to get eats before they close up for the night. I ate at 71 House, very good food. (Next to Bamboo Riverside Mexicano restaurant.) I always let the Thais pick my food for me. I only tell them not spicy hot & no curry. Every time all excellent. Never order glass noodles. I did that 2nd night in CM & my whole body was on fire. I had to drink 2 Singha in 15 mins before my body cooled down.

I was still trying to find the Findley guy’s pub but no success. I walked down to the Bamboo Riverside & the man told me he sold the pub to some Thais & went back to Findley leaving his Thai wife behind, that figures. (You'll see so many abandoned Thai girls w/kid(s), no father luding around.)

I don’t like walking in bars by myself nor do I go to bars in US. There were some Thai guys playing pool (snooker) [up alley to the left on main road – outside pool hall] I asked if I could play & they were thrilled I even asked. I haven’t played pool in a long time, use to have a caliber eye. They couldn’t believe when I kicked their arse 2 times. The owner was laughing. He speaks very good English & said these boys are here every night playing. So I taught them how to play Screw your neighbor, 9 ball, call ball (only way to play) & how Americans girls rack the balls. [:)]

I had so much fun that night. One of the players named Bek said you have chopper in America? (I had a rhinestone HD emblem on my shirt). He said he be right back. He came back with his chopper & showing me his colours (patches for his jacket) He gave me a sliver HD eagle pin he made & put it on my shirt. He owns a silver shop No. up the road. I’m sitting on the bench saying I need to go to sleep & Bek comes over gets down on his knees & lays his head side ways on my lap. I looked @ the owner & he said, Bek is saying he doesn’t want you to leave. I rub his head & said I’ll be back sometime soon. Awww so sweet. They all pointed their finger to their cheeks for a kiss good-bye. This has to be a NE Thai thing, I’m thinking.

On they way back to my G/H I grabbed a Singha from the frig. (They have an honour system here) & did my very best not to fall stumbling to Bungalow #7. Another heart stopper was when I turned on my Coleman’s lantern there was the largest cockroach in my glass finishing off the leftover Singha I left behind. Oh sh*t, I’m back in Louisiana!! I dreaded the walk back to get another glass at the G/H eatery. In the morning, the fricking cocks woke me up @ 5:30am telling me it’s time to wake up, and no it’s not I’m thinking. I went in my bag & got my earplugs & fell right back to sleep.

Left CK around 11:30am after my Thai massage to Mae Sa Long. I took the parallel road from main in CK to fuel up & couldn’t believe there was a Catholic Church off one of the side roads. I walked in & there was no priest I can repent my sins too....so I blessed my own self with Holy Water & left.

I took the route around the Mekong river, real nice. Jumped on Route 1129. Looking at map not sure of Routes, but rode thru Chiang Saen up to the Golden Triangle. Went up the road next to the Opium Museum to see the view & onto Rong to Mai Sai. (I didn’t get off bike for pics or any souvenirs, been there before + all the tourists.)

I stopped at the Mai Sai GH to say hello & to tell the father, “it wasn’t me” who did the damage back in Feb. 2003. I offered him 500bt to make amends but he didn’t take it only laughed. He asked where my man is & I said, don’t know. I here all by myself. The daughter made dinner for all of us & I left around 4:30pm. He & his 2 sons are now coming to CMBKWK. I was going to take a different route to Mae Sa Long but she said I wouldn’t make it before dark. I believed her & took her Routes 1 / 1130 / 1234. Route 1234 was real fun with hardly any sun.

I stayed at Mae Sa Long Resort. 600 bt vs. 1000 bt back in Feb. for same room. The monkey was still there as I rode by, I’m thinking, I not walking over there. The monkey attacked a Chinese boy last time, he’s screaming & I couldn’t stop crying tears of laughter it was so funny. The bell boy remembered me. His friend comes over on his moped to help w/my bags. He could speak some English. I told him my name & he said his name is Foo. I said how do you spell Foo. He said; “FU”. I said in America "FU" means & I gave him the middle finger…..They both understood what that meant & we all cracked up laughing. Fu said he needs to change his nickname, we couldn't stop laughing.

Fu said how much Thai you speak, I said very little w/my index & thumb, but I know Chinese. Their eyes turned huge..then I said naw…only joking. (Mae Sa Long mainly Chinese) They took my bags up to my room & Fu asked if I wanted him to bring me whiskey or beer. I told him to go buy 6 large Singhas & we all drank out on the porch over looking MSL for a couple hours. No eats again this night, too late.

The next time I go to Mae Sa Long, I plan on staying at the Golden Dragon Inn. 300bt a night. She showed me her rooms & I thought they were very nice. She has a restaurant & Internet. All very convenient.

Riding into Mae Sa Long east to west you will see a huge Wat. It’s at the top of the hill behind central MSL or turn right before MSL Resort. It offers spectacular views of the surrounding area. Winding steep roads though circular taking approx. 10 to 15 mins to get to the top. The view is particularly worthwhile in the early morning when the mist often fills the valley. This Wat itself if far from spectacular.

Next morning did a short ride to Tha Ton to drop my luggage off before I did this certain ride. I stayed at Garden Home Resort, 600 bt. Including breakfast. I LOVE this place.

I copied this route someone posted on David’s board to see if I could earn some baht since it was a guaranteed excellent ride. I rode So. on 1089 took bypassed to Fang & No. on Route 1178 / 1322. I saw the G/H he wrote in Ban Chong & I thought to myself, I wonder how many people actually comes to stay here for the night. I turn on the dirt road going to Kae Noi. Bumping as hell. If you like dirt roads I totally agree with him. Hardly anyone is on this road, you can haul arse, but not me in dirt. No ruts like some of the other back roads I’ve been on, but enough thick dust for me to turn bike over if I went fast. The road really fools you, you think you’re back on pave road & sure enough back to dirt. This went on for a long time. Very good road for the dirt bikers like he said.

This is the 1st time the border police asked me to stop but with smiles. (why I took my bags off before I left. I didn’t want them searching around my bags for drugs; nor do I do them) One asked; “where you come from?” I said; “Tha Ton”. (said that on purpose to get them to laugh; which they did) No, no he said what country, America I said. More he said pointing down the road I came from & I shook my head no & I point to me only. One he said, yes one. Me only. All the Police started laughing & shaking their heads. Theses police were tall ones too. They said chok dee ka & I road on to Doi Ang Khang. Since I’m sooooooooo slow in dirt I couldn’t do the full route around the Burma border it was 4pm. I had to get on Route 1249 to make back to Tha Ton before dark.

It’s apprx. 6:30pm, small quiet town Tha Ton. I was looking for another restaurant then eating at G/H as I did before. I see nothing & asked some foreigners & they say the best place to eat is at my G/H….figures. I walked back, but glad to get blood running in my bum. Back in my bungalow by 8pm ready to take a shower & all the lights go out….couldn’t believe it. So I bathed with my baby wipes, went outside on the river bank, drank some more Singhas to make me pass out. I notice the balcony they had once before in Feb is now gone. I remember my gentleman friend almost fell over in the river last time when one of the bamboo railings broke, funny. They could have fixed it, although I guess easier for them to tear it down. Such a bummer for me. Oh yes, they gave me 200 bt back for the inconvenience.

You must go see the 2 Wats across the river up the hill whilst there. Beautiful, but like I said before, been there, done that.

Next day plan was to stay in Phayao. I took Route 1089 So riding thru Fang (NYC also), I was totally baffled I actually saw the sign for “Cheers”. I thought about going down that alley to ckout the Famous Red Head, but thought, naww….Someone thinks he figured out the truth, which I really doubt.

Road on down 1089 to 109 / 118 / 120 / 1193 / 1 . It was only 1pm & I wasn’t ready to stop riding. It was Thursday & I knew Joe & Tom wanted to change my front tire out before my ride with the North Comets. I decided to ride back to CM so they can change out on Friday…giving them a break having not to work on the weekend. I started heading toward CM.

I took Route 120 to Wang Nua & headed So. on Route 1035. I cut across in Khuang Kom to 1157. These 2 roads aren’t any thing to write about, but you can be speed racer. No one is on these roads till you get closer to Lampang. So many people waving at me, I was stunned when 2 monks around 30yrs waved & smiled at me for the 1st time beside the others ones looking. I cut across 1093 to catch Route 11 to CM. Awww…the fumes…throat closing up, back on penicillin.

Stayed at Veerachai for the weekend. Went to Rudy’s pub that night. Friday morning was the 1st time I woke up w/a hangover. It must be that delicious Weihenstephan German beer. Went to Joe’s & Tom’s place by 1pm & laid on the bench with a HUGE headache & talked to Gonya. She a wonderful lady that works at Joe’s Goodwill. If you talk, she’ll talk to you. She became a very good friend of mine. (More to come regarding our disco night out)…...Early to bed that night.

Next morning Lek, Secretary of North Comets came & picked me up @ 8am…I’m thinking why so early!!! Best looking man I’ve seen in Thailand, forget Antonio Baneras in MHS. Lek’s a heart throbber, every girl dream man come true!! I’m thinking to myself, control yourself….I mistakenly found him via e-mail on Internet. We e-mailed a few times previous, I could tell he is a decent man.

To help their CMBKWK event I volunteered to collect donations for them to sell/auction. "Harley Davidson of Cincinnati" gave me over $3,000.00 (retail) worth of donations to support their event to donate the Baht earned to go to a abused wimmims shelter in CM. I dropped the huge luggage + mine @ his office, he was in BKK at the time. I couldn’t believe he never opened it. He waited for me to open it in front of him.

He took me to his home…I’m thought to myself; “yes, Lek is the real Mastiff”, if I might add; he owns 2 pedigrees. 1st time I seen a live Mastiff besides in pictures. I could tell he couldn’t believe how much "Harley of Cincinnati" donated. He already sent a thank you card to HD os Sin City & he said that was not enough. He introduced me to another member, uhm…I think Tu, nice guy. They gave me so many Ts, pins, patches + planning to give me more when it comes in to take back to "Harley of Cincinnati". We all leave Monday, Dec 1-5 for the ride to Mae Sot to meet up with the groups coming to CMBKWK. I am looking very forward to ride with them. I already told Lek, no laughs that I’m on a Honda, not a Harley…

After he took me back to my motel. I decided to ride up to Phrae. Routes 11 / 1001 / 1150. I remember some fellow posted on David’s site to stop by this wine place called Chiang Dao Hill Farm. I asked the Police Checkers where it is at & they pointed me in the right direction. I missed my wine, getting tired of Singha beers. I bought 2 bottles, ate lunch/dinner upstairs & had 2 glasses of “Red Wine”. I could have drunk a whole bottle, but I still needed to ride to CM. I concur with him, a place you need to stop at. I had the best meal here in Thailand or maybe I was just in lala land sipping my wine I missed whilst looking down on the spectacular grounds below.

Stay tune, best is yet to come….Disco/North Comets ride……~Jade
[;)]
 
Feb 6, 2003
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HEY!....Jade. Am on the road in Sukhothai heading west to Mae Sot. Should arrive Mae Sot by mid afternoon. Want to hook up with riders heading north so if you have a meeting point in Mae Sot p lease advise. STAN My Mobile in (07) 907-6097
 

Jade

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Feb 25, 2003
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Hi Stan!

The North Comets/Immortals/Singapore/Malaysi are headed to Chiang Dao tonite (Wed 3 Dec.) We're in Pai right now. Their eating & I'm paying bills on net .

Watch out for all the dirt going North from Mae Sot. I tell you these Asian HD Men have larger balls then the HD men in America....~Jade
 

peter

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Sep 15, 2003
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Hey, "Dirt north of Mae sot" Has there been a washout? Went through there two weeks ago and only two 100 meter sections and not very bad...
yes I know David ... Trip report soon...
cheers, Peter

peter c.
 

Jade

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Feb 25, 2003
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I have so much to type for latest report w/the Ride I took w/the SE Asian riders. To all the rest, I had the best time in my young life with all these men. They are far from any USA HD men. Good guys. They took care of me the whole time for hotel/eats & drink expenses. They were so delighted to have an American girl to actually do the ride with them even though I wasn't on an Harley.

David, after CM Bike Week, I'll start typing some more notes. Way too much to type now regarding the ride. May have to wait when I get back to the States, then again, I'm off in 2 wks after arriving in the US. The Singapore men invited me to come stay with them. There giving me one of their HD to ride w/them to Malaysia. Like I said; "Good guys". ~Jade
[:)]
 
Feb 6, 2003
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Hey Jade: Thanks for the warning on the road north from Mae Sot - I spotted three main areas of hard packed dirt sections with the attendant ruts. Am alone on a brand new Honda Phantom (knew I'd find a virgin 'something' in Thailand). I liked this run north to Mae Sarieng from Mae Sot although the first half of the ride was quite cold (relatively) even with my riding shirt on. Keep missing your ride by one day and even today I missed the N.Comets 220 Km ride due a morning hang-over. Can't drink anymore in the late evenings it seems.

Am at Top North Hotel Rm 414till noon Wednedsay then fly to BKK then Pattaya for a few days beach time prior to my flight to SFO the 17th. Will be working on my GS 650 Suzi on my return getting it road worthy hopefully but lots of work needed on engine (re-bore, pistons, rings, cam chain) doing all except the re-bore of course. No return date yet set for Missouri unless I give up on the Suzuki.

Have a good one in Singapore and Malaysia - thats my next plan as well BTW but no date yet.

Stan (07) 907-6097 Mobile
 

Jade

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Feb 25, 2003
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Back to the Disco Gonja took me too along with the SE Asian love.

Gonja knew I wanted to go to the Discos since I was neglected last time in February. She took me to “Nice Illusion” on Muang Wang Road. All Thais, no farangs. They put on a great live Disco show. Different solo singers & dancers. We danced the night away. A lot of fun there if you like to dance. I thank Gonja so much for taking me. Please tell her Tom for me thanks!!

Of course there’s never no time to rest in the early morning hours. Lek came by @ 8am so I can follow him to meet up with the other North Comets at a fuel station in CM. He knew I’d never find it.

I was introduced to few other No. Comets. Thum, Ooan (One), Poon & his girlfriend Pong whom is our back-up drivers following in Lek’s truck in case of any breakdowns along the way.

Lek was riding his BMW RT100, One on his newest & greatest Suzuki Skywave 650, looks like a large moped to me, Thum on his custom wantabee Harley. You couldn’t really tell it wasn’t a Harley. Me of course, on my Honda 250 dirt bike. We all got along great! All very nice guys.

We rode down Routes 116 / 106 / 1 & stopped @ Tak Steak house on Route 1. No. of Tak. (I wouldn’t recommend this place for steaks. The cows are breed especially by the government, though it’s not the best steak; though I'm in Thailand.) During lunch, I asked Lek why is all the grass burned in the mediums between the highway, people throwing out smokes still lit? He said; “they burn the grass so they don’t have to cut it” & they all started laughing. Sounds reasonable to me. Maybe I should do the same to my yard back in the States; though my neighbors, the Jones’ may not like it.

We left & took off to meet the others (approx. 40 bikes) at another Tak restaurant. They were coming from Singapore, Malaysia, Bangkok & I’m sure from another few SE Asia locations. I felt totally isolated on my dirt bike. I was pounting for my Harley so bad.

Majority (98%) had custom Harley Road Kings, couple of Fat boys, Softails, 1 Honda Goldwing & an another BMW. All solo riders besides 4-6 had a mate on back. They said they thought it was rather unique, having an American female rider. I still thinking I needed my Harley. I felt like a fool, totally misfit on the Honda. Everyone was so kind introducing him or herself to me. I no longer felt out of place after their kindness.

We all rode Route 105 on our way to Mae Sot. We stopped at a viewpoint, I didn’t write down, but I think it was Taksin Maharat Nat’l Park. From there we rode onto Mae Sot & arrived at “Central Mae Sot Hotel”. After finding out the cost @ hotel was 1,200BT for the night. I walked out to my bike to find me a cheaper place. One of the riders came out & he said; “Jade where are you going?” I said; “this place isn’t on my budget, I need to find a less expensive place in town. He was sweet & said; “no, no, don’t worry about it. We all agreed to help pitch in to pay for your cost for room/food/drinks during the ride. You need to stay with the group.” I didn’t like the idea being a taker, but he made it clear not to worry about it.

After checking into my room, this was the 1st time I ever saw a box of condoms in the room for sale for 100bt. I had to take the box for a sovereign for my sons. We all rode to Khaomao Khaofang restaurant for dinner. I couldn’t believe how heavenly this place is. Most definitely going back for my honeymoon if I ever remarry. They ordered the food, & all was too good to eat.

After eating, this Indian looking man from Malaysia named Archim, asked if he could ride my bike & he give me his Fatboy to ride. I didn’t have any hesitations saying “no”. We rode through the streets of Mae Sot town. I’m in my shorts & high heels sandals riding this Fatboy. The other riders had to take a 2nd look to see who I was. I just smiled.

Later we were all out in the Beer Garden @ the hotel drinking , wine, cheap whiskey & beer. Every time they filled their glass w/the cheap whiskey they toasted “Happy Birthday” before taking a sip. It wasn’t anybody birthday another form of saying “cheers”. I just followed the program & went along. I was having too much fun w/them & didn't want to say no to the cheap whiskey. What harm can 40% do?

They wanted to know who wanted to wake up @ 6am to ride to “Magic Mountain” the following morning. I said; “Magic Mountain is in Disneyland”. They started laughing. It is suppose to be an optical illusion your bike is going down hill, but bikes feels it is going up. (Help me on this one David) It sounded interesting but for me, I’d rather sleep in; so I did.

Later that night, they’re eating again inside. No can do I said. They said I had to eat the rice & etc. to help the alcohol digest. Belly too full from dinner, still no can do. I told them I rather dance to the solo singer. Some men got up to dance with me. We were having so a splendid time. I saw across in the other room they had a pianist playing alone. I asked who wants to come w/me. Some did. The pianist was glad we came in. He’s playing any requests, them it came down to the guys asking if they can karaoke to his playing, so they did. They started singing country & I was teaching the men how to do the Texas 2-step. A lot of toes were being stepped on. It was 3:30am, we all decided to hit the sack.

The following morning, Lek called me @ 9am & told me to get up everyone is outside waiting for me. I was soooooooooo hung over from the booze, mainly the cheap 40% whiskey. I told Lek to go on, I’ll catch up with them. He said well turnout of the hotel towards the restaurant we ate at the following night & follow that rode. Yeah, yeah, sure, sure, I remember.....unlikely. I need my beauty sleep.

I finally rose from my bed went downstairs for breakfast & I felt like sh*t. This was a really bad hangover. Lek sends back a Poon to the hotel to make sure I'm up & I told him to go away, promising, I’ll catch up. Getting on the correct road to MHS Route 105 was not easy in my condition. I’d stop & ask; “Mae Hong Son?” 3 different times people pointed me to the Burma border crossing. I made it to the border, stopped to think, then my head really started to pound. Knowing I wasn’t that stupid that MHS isn’t in Burma. My mistake was I should have asked where is Mae Sariang, not MHS. I know I killed a few brain cells in the previous early hours, not looking good.

Finally someone knew what I meant. Riding up Route 105 the group didn’t get far maybe 10 miles @ the most. Someone was having bike problems. First thought to the brain, I could have slept another hour!!!

All were asking if I was ok. No, I not ok, I need to lie down on this bench. No more cheap whiskey for me. Thum comes over & said; “Jade you made it!” I said; “NO MORE HAPPY BIRTHDAYS!!” This other man comes over & asked what were the condoms on my hotel checkout receipt. I was so embarrassed!! For my sons I said. I'm thinking, yeah, yeah, laugh all you want. I'll explain myself later. I wasn’t in a laughing mood yet, still dehydrated from the cheap whiskey.

We took off & stopped somewhere for fuel. One (No. Comet), Zack (30y) from Singapore on a 95th special edition Road King telling me how fast he is & they wanted to race me. Sure boys, I'm totally up to it with a hangover. We left the group & went out racing up the 105. Route 105 is nice & easy for awhile eventually the jungle was taking over the road, more sharp curves & I’m thinking, I’m going at my pace…I’ll catch up to them later.

Whilst riding, I’m thinking how in the hell are these Road Kings + other big bikes going to make it thru without hitting all the dirt & gravel. Hell I wouldn’t do it with my Harley.

I finally caught up to Zack it wasn’t good. His bike was down. I got off my bike to help him pick his bike up. He missed going over the cliff by 2 ft. He told me a monkey came out in front of him. I didn’t say a word. (I’m thinking monkey my arse.) His bike looked totaled to me. I was so tempted to pull out my camera, but couldn't do it to him. I asked if he needed any of my 1st aid & he said he was ok. He didn’t have hard pads on but soft pads. He slid at least 20 feet. No broken bones, no blood, unbeliveable I’m thinking. He basically took the corner too fast, hitting gravel & turned bike down. We let other riders ride by, & I couldn’t believe they couldn’t see his bike smashed! He said; don't say a word.

I could see in his eyes he wasn’t looking forward to stop his father (David) coming around the corner, + a few others & the truck. All 6 of us lifted his bike onto the small bed truck. I told Zack to take my bike & I’ll ride behind his father on his HD 1550cc Custom Road King, it's purple too! [;)] I knew Zack had to get back on a bike. He was shook up even if he didn’t want to admit it. It didn’t bother me riding on the back of his fathers', this way I can take more pictures.

Next write up to be continued. (Me being David's bi*ch on his bike heading towards MHS…unbelievable! Then came darkness, I was on a Road King in Magic Mountain, very scarey!
 

Jade

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Feb 25, 2003
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Hello David,

I just did some corrections/modifications to previous reports and I am so glad you asked me to do this. As I'm rereading, I'm in tears from all the laughter remembering the great days I had there. It wasn't alway easy on slow internet, but "Thanks!" [:X] I have no regrets & I hope others do the same for you.

I was ready to start typing again going thru notes, papers & business cards I collected, rubberbanded for reminders. I never knew how many wonderful "HOTMALES" e-mails I need to reply. I had to take the time to stop to let them all know how much they all meant to me whilst I was there.

Six more days to write on my last days in No. Thailand to come.

26 degrees & freezing in Kentucky. ~Jade
 

Jade

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Feb 25, 2003
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I have to say the Singapore group, all had easy USA names to remember versus all the nicknames the other had.

After Zach’s crash, (many miles before the huge refugee camp on the left) him with no bike for the remaining time, I gave him my Honda 250. I couldn’t see his trip ruined for the remaining time riding b*tch behind some male. His father, David concurred I could ride behind him after disappointed looks at his son for crashing, which is reasonably understandable.

David (Singapore) & I really didn’t know each other. I hopped on the back of his stunning Purple Flames HD 1550cc Road King. (I’m thinking, if I have to ride the remaining trip w/him, I brought plenty of Purple outfits to match his bike [my bike is purple in the States]). I’m a couple inches taller than him or it could be my boots, but approx. same weight. It was funny to watch Zach’s serious facial expression waiting for his father to lead & he follow behind on my bike. I bet he knew his papa wanted to put him over his knee.

I didn’t want to say too much whilst David was riding, cas’ I didn’t know how he was feeling at the time in regards to his son Zach just crashing. After so many miles, no music playing in my ears incase he wanted to say something. I was going slightly frenzied not able to take it any longer, so I broke the ice by speaking first. I said I was so happy Zach’s being blessed not going over the cliff; otherwise, I would have never of known passing he was down there. Nobody would have. I know he was grateful I stayed with his son; then again I’m thinking he may be thinking, if I hadn't raced him this wouldn’t have happened. Like I said, I don’t know what he was thinking.

It was light chatting, I know he had to watch the road + my extra weight behind him for added per caution. After I was feeling a little more comfortable, I was telling him how Zach said a monkey came out in from of him & he tried to dodge it. That’s when David opened up his wall of silence & said; “He’s the monkey! There wasn’t any monkey! (He can’t see me in the back laughing my arse off) I looked at the marks on the road; he took the corner too fast. He also said, there is something about how Harleys are made; you can’t take a curve to the right as you can to the left. I told him I understand exactly what he meant. For some odd reason I can’t do a right turn as I can a left turn on my 1200 Sportster & I don’t know why. I thinking wow, I have an intelligent man in front of me. Never thought of that logical reasoning.

We talked & we laughed. I pulled out my camera & started taking pictures of him & me whilst he riding. Turning around & taking pictures of Zach on my bike, laughing away…Zach was laughing too. For Zach to see, I pretended I was putting my hands all over his father’s body, kissing him, acting like I’m laying my head on his back & so on. I needed to make this ride much more enjoyable for all of us. David said what are you doing I can feel you moving all over the place. Oh sorry I said, I’m pretending…blah, blah….he started laughing & patted me on my left leg. He loved it.

David did become my ride for the remaining days. You know when you get behind a rider, you have no control over his ability of riding. It’s all a matter of trust & I felt totally comfortable riding behind him not even knowing how he rides. I think he was going the average speed to make me feel more relax or maybe for him to get use to me in the back, don’t know.

It’s too bad Zach crashed, although I can honestly say, fortunate for me to find such a “genuine fine dazzling riding partner”; his father, David. He is an amazing dignified man; I have a high regard for him to this day. Our personalities clicked quite fast & we savored ever ride we rode together every day after. Well then again, you almost have to become close, not intimately, when you’re together on one bike for 8-10 hours, then again in the evening before bed. In the end, we became very good friends. When I say “Friends”, that is exactly what I mean. (Less what some “below the gutter minds” may think.)

Back to the ride, I kept turning around to Zach making hand emotions for him to pass us & put full throttle on. There was no reason for him to stay behind us, doubt he’ll do anything silly + it’s my rental bike; though I don’t know the up bringing rules in Singapore. He wouldn’t go around his father.

By now, David & I are both comfortable with one another on bike & each other. Then came the 3 horrific sections of dirt. The whole time I’m thinking I’m glad I’m not on my bike even though it’s a dirt bike. I saw ahead of us the other riders had they’re passenger get off the bike & walk. I asked David if he wanted me to get off & he said “no, no, I don’t want you to walk”. (Me, I’m evaluating the dirt I’m about to kiss at any time.) He actually rode thru the mess with me on back with no hesitation. He received a pat on the back from me; REAL MAN!! Each time, I’m waving/filming the others on bike or the females on foot, smiling away as David road thru it each time. They thought it was humorous.

We stopped for a brief break after we passed the dirt sections before Mae Sariang. I asked David if it’s ok for Zach to ride ahead of us. He didn’t care, so it must have been Zach’s guilt, and he finally did after I told him his father didn’t care.

Now some of you whom read this may think what’s the BIG “D”eal on dirt? You have to remember, these SE Asian men were on heavy bikes (i.e., Road Kings, Fat Boys, Gold Wing, etc.) What they rode thru on their bike, I’m very proud of them. They are like no other I have ever seen in the States. I went around & told each & every one how proud I was of them. Day later, I even put a posting on US HOG, how these SE Asian men have more balls than any HD American. Harley of Cincinnati watched the videos & couldn’t believe it either.

The group stopped in Mae Sariang for lunch, (sorry David overlooked to take note of eatery). The group at my table did the ordering every time. They always ordered food items for all to share. They told what I’d like or not or even try it. No complaints from me either. Sometimes I had to forget my etiquettes & eat with my fingers unable to use chopsticks. How they eat with a fork & using their spoon as a knife, don’t know.

On our way to Mae Hong Son, I told David we are never going to make it by dark. He just said don’t worry about it. Easy enough for him to say, but I have no control of the handlebars either. Sure enough it was dark & we were 100+ ks So. away from MHS & all the twisty curves ahead. I told David I was scared to ride in the dark in Thai, again all he said, don’t worry about it. I’m watching from behind every move he is making. Out of the blue, David said to me, “You ok?” “I’m ok, are you ok?” He said yes & he took off like a bolt of lightning.

Here I am on a back of his Road King in the dark in Magic Mountain wanting to scream. My stomach didn’t drop but I most definitely know my heart likely stopped a couple of times. He gave me natural rushes than any roller coaster I’d ever been on. There was times I wanted to put my hand over my eyes not to even look but had to watch to make sure he doesn’t make a mistake & I can hopefully speak up soon enough that he can react! I sense that as if death was soon to be near. I looked over his shoulder to look at his speedometer, couldn’t believe he was doing 60-80 Ks around the “S” curves, 30-40 Ks around the “L”s. Every so often his floor board pegs or tailpipes would hit the pavement flying sparks, he say “oops”, like whoopee doo!! He passing all the other riders, as if to say to them, "hey you’re riding much too slow for me." As soon as I had time when he was on a straight section of the road, I said; “I need my wine now, not later.” He just giggled, patted me on my left knee, & back to the racetrack.

Before we arrived at the Imperial Tara Mae Hong Son Hotel in MHS where they would be staying, I told David to drop me off @ my G/H. I’ve always cherished. (Rim Nam) He asked why & I told him cas’ I love that place & I don’t need all this fancy style of living or eating. He said; “no”. Then I asked if at least can we go by there so I can show him the place & also so I can get a drink to calm my nerves; he agreed.

As we passed the Imperial Hotel some of the others were there telling us to turn left & we rode on. David said; you know they’re all going to wondering what were doing, gossip is going to start. I said; I don’t care, do you? (People he knows, not me) He got a kick out of it & said “no”. When we arrived at Rim Nam, here comes my little 25+ boy smiling with glee I came back. Previously, he thought my bike was cool by far until he looked at David’s bike. He asked in questioned where’s my bike & told him in my limited Thai that David’s luuuk chie (son) crashed his bike & has mine now. David looked @ me & said; I didn’t know you know you spoke Thai. I smile & said; I don’t, only some.

The boy took us up to the eatery on the river (on same grounds as G/H). The mother wanted to know if I wanted a room. (None really speaks any English here). I had to explain I only wanted to get 2 Singhas & show David her lovely place; which she allowed. David like the place but said I’m still coming back with him.

Whilst we sat at the table drinking our Singahs, this is when we really began chatting to get to know one another. We began on the Hell ride he took me thru. He said after a little while he could tell I knew how to be a passenger on a bike by my movements. Oh great I thought!!! Why he asked if I was “ok”. He said in his younger years, he use to be a professional racer. I said; what the hell do you mean your younger years, are you an old man now?….He laughed, saying you know what I mean by the idiom…Yes in my younger years, I was a teenager; I said. We both laughed. I asked him if he was a Roman Catholic since Zach told me he was. David said; "Zach's a 'Romantic' Catholic." I never heard that line before, I'll use that in the future for myself. We were there approx. for an hour & he said we need to get back before we’re the last ones to arrive. Then the inquiry minds would really be wondering what mischief we’re up to. The boy walked me out & asked when he would see me again. Real sad I thought, here’s someone who can’t wait to see me again. I told him maybe in a couple of years. He was happy then & I kissed him good-bye.

Sure enough when we pulled in the hotel parking lot, his son Zach came over & said; where have you been? We’ve all been worried about you two. I explicated to him & others later, I took David to where I’d would rather stay instead of all this high-class living. The hotel & my room were exquisite, though not necessary for me. David said we’d go into town & find a place to eat. (This night was on your own to eat.) For me to go shower & meet downstairs in 40 mins. I said; hey wait a minute, meez girl & I can’t get ready that fast!! He was so generous to give me an extra 10 mins.

I told David when I came down to the lobby that MHS is not walking distance. Zach, David & I took the hotel shuttle bus to town around 9pm. I suggested where we should eat at the Lakeside since I haven’t been there. Some were going to Fern’s & I said no that’s its all touristy. Those 2 ordered the eats at Lakeside. All very good. One of our waitresses was a lady boy. I told Zach she keeps eyeing him. Remember Zach is 30y, he’s at least 6’2 & nice looking. He’s from Singapore with a touch of Australia accent. (Went to University there for 5 years). I kept signaling the lady boy with a wink & then looked at Zach. It was too funny. When we were up & leaving, the lady boy came over to Zach & put his hand on his shoulder & said good-bye. Zach’s just going along with it, giving me the eye now. (this was the end of the day from his crash in the morning.)

It’s around 10:30pm for us to catch the hotel shuttle back. I asked David when we were walking, if I can make a pit stop quickly a several blocks No. to see all my wannabee boyfriends @ Mhoo’s Crossroads bar. I told him the story…he didn’t care. The driver took me there & sure enough a few were in there. I went in & gave them all a hug. They’re wanting to buy me drinks & I pointed to the Van right outside that I only had time to say hello. I introduced them to David & Zach. David’s telling me or is that ordering me to get in the van now. So I did.

When we arrived back at the hotel, 8 men of the group were in the lobby around a coffee table with a bottle of whiskey started. We sat down with them & no thank you I don’t want any whiskey. I ordered a Singha. I’m sitting in a nice cushioned chair listening to them all talk. Majority, I understood, some not. I was getting so relaxed in this soft chair, I flipped my legs over the side & resting my neck. One asked me why I so quiet all of a sudden. I said; “bad cheap whiskey from last nite & I don’t mind just listening to them talk.”

All of a sudden this man come out of his room w/a towel around him over to our table & said; “his roommate is driving him crazy!!! He’s been without a wimmin for 3 days & he’s driving him crazy. He thinks the sperm is about to explode out of his nose!” I about died. He looked over at me & said sorry Jade. It’s ok, I said. I’m laughing so hard how he’s describing his roommate-distorted state of mind he’s in. He said; he can’t go back to his room with him like this. I told him to buy his friend a bottle of lotion & to put a sock over it so it won’t make a mess after he’s completed. It was so funny!!! They all went on describing this man’s ill-fated situation for over 5 mins. I was in tears…I don’t think any of these SE Asian men need Viagra, cums unsurprisingly. [:I]

Then they were discussing about going to see the Long Necks in Huay Sua Tao leaving at 6:30am. It’s after midnight now & I know it’s out of the question for me. I asked if they would go to the other Long Neck village by Nai Soi, so I could see Majon & her mother Maetay. They said it was too far & that our destination the next day was Chiang Dao Resort.

Now this is where I bummed out riding B*tch or not having my own bike, although I honestly don’t have any qualms giving my bike to Zach. Without my bike, I can’t go see my Long Neck family + I have to wake up early to catch my ride each morning. No sleeping in allowed any more. Every morning, I get my wake up call & every morning I tell them it’s too early. Before you know it, they’re knocking on my door to get me up in a very Gentleman’s Club fashion.

After my ride with David the previous day, I told Zach I needed my donut pillow back on my bike. He made it clear to me bluntly saying “no”. So I slowly drifted back to my room & took a spare pillow from the closet. David said to me; what do you plan on doing with that pillow. I said; it’s going on your backseat to cushion my bum. He looked at me dumbfounded but gave me the “ok” shaking his head. My lovely soft pillow obviously wasn’t colour coordinated with David’s stunning purple flaming bike, but heck, I’m into comfort. David’s sister Linda was a passenger of her husband. She bought one for herself too for 150 bt from the hotel, mine was free. At least no came up to me saying they paid for a pillow on my hotel bill. All the girls were now interested in getting one for themselves. Some did, some men wouldn’t allow them to.

Next off to Chiang Dao Resort……to be cont'd...~Jade
 

Jade

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Feb 25, 2003
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Time wise, I’m 12 hours behind Thailand. It’s Sunday here and I had to remember the Sabbath day & pay my respects. Also came to mind, Sabbath day means no working on this day either David. Hence since you such a sweetheart, I’ll keep typing.

Before leaving MHS Imperial we all had breakfast on the outside terrace, real fulfilling! The ones that went to see the Long Necks in the morning finally came back. Here’s another hour I could have slept in. One of the men came back with this tall good-looking young Japanese man, nice guy also. I said to the one who picked him up; “I heard about people like you.” He laughed, saying, no, no, he’s a trekker & he’s giving him a lift, that’s how trekkers get around. Good explanation & I accepted it not thinking he’s queer. I know he’s probably thinking this American girl thinks he is, which I don’t.

I get on behind David, him showing me all his manly physique balancing his bike whilst I rearranging my soft cushioning pillow for my bum. Are you finished yet; he asked? Yes, I said. It was funny. I see his sister rearranging her pillow for her bum also. We smile at one another; this is going to be a much enjoyable spongy ride.

Once again, most notorious riders I've ever met doing the loop on Route 1095 to Pai. The Singapore man riding the Honda 250 doesn’t count. He has it way too easy now. Lols…..(That comment is especially for you Zach!) The way they maneuvered around the curves on a Road King, is just astonishing! You know, most people would think they would have had their Harleys lowered thinking they are too short the normal HD height. Tis not true. For one, most are much taller than one might think. Secondly, majority of all the SE Asian men were well over 5’10” + tall. I consider their height well above ever being called “short”. As I said; “Great Men!”

We all stopped in Pai to have lunch at the “Tea Room” not too sure, but close enough. The roads at the intersection we were pulling up to were all mud. They have some construction going on that some of the streets are dirt or maybe it’s just that way. They just finished straying the streets with water, not that bad though. I was getting off David’s bike; I don’t know if he wasn’t ready for me or what; normal code was usually, “are you ready” for me to get off? We have conflicting issues here on this one, but as I was almost literally off the bike both feet on the ground his bike was following me over. We’re both using all our muscles to keep it from going all the way over, embarrassing for him. I’m so sorry David!!! Good thing for roll bars. After the bike was up righted; I said to him; “Father like son”. He didn’t think that comment was funny either.

I was still full from breakfast not wanting to eat. They’re all telling me I need to eat & I’m telling them I don’t want to become like a Harley “moo” (Pig). It simply incredible to me how they stay so slim. They tell me the Americans don’t eat right either. I didn’t argue that one cas’ it’s true.

I walked down to the end of the street to my Internet pal I met in February & couple weeks previous when I was in Pai. (It simply amazes me, how many people remember me from February even though I have dyed my hair from natural light brown to dark auburn red.)

Anyway, he owns his own Internet service across from the street from Rim Pai Cottages. He’s very computer-literate if you ever need any assistance he’s a very intellectual young man. I paid some bills over the Internet and said my good-byes to him. He asked when I’d back & I told him maybe in 2 years. He said with a remarkable smile, maybe next time you see me I’ll be walking. He’s paralyzed from the waist down. He’s been in a wheelchair since birth. I tell him, I’ll pray for him in my own way, kissed him & we said our good-byes.

I really wanted to walk over to say hello to the one the beat the hell out of me giving me a massage, but time was running out. (I still recommend getting a massage from her.) The Siam sunrays didn’t give me much any energy to walk her way either. Uggggh!! Trying to find shade going up the street to my group.

David now had new rules for me getting on & off the bike. Along Route 1095, we stopped to fill up on fuel. This was a really nice fuel station. Since it usually takes up to an hour for all to fuel up, I saw way in the back of the station all these Rooster running around. I walked back to see them all. (BTW, I love chickens; use to raise Banties chickens in Pennsylvania for fun only) Any way, this Thai man walks out of nowhere & smiles at me. I trying to explain how suay his roosters are. He understands me somewhat & said to follow him. I went over an embankment like 6ft. thru the trees. He showed me these teenage boys bathing these 2 live roosters in water even putting the water down their throat. I really didn’t look at my surroundings around me. I was paying attention to the 2 roosters being cleansed I thought to eat, cas’ I asked the man by putting my hand to my mouth asking if he plans on eating them, why they’re being watered down. He said “krup”, so I took it as yes.

The boys all smiles telling the father/man that their finished, I’m thinking I have to get the heck out here. Not in the mood to see a chicken head chopped off. Boy was I wrong!! They threw the 2 rooster in a small arena to fight, I couldn’t believe it!! Never been to one of these illegal fighting in the States. I watched for a little while, but I couldn’t take it (never showing any displeasure in my face). In a nice way, I’m telling this man, pointing towards the fuel station, I need to get back. I said; kob koon ka & yaw narn ka. They all waved good-bye to me. I walking back to the bikes thinking, I can’t believe that actually just happened. Then I thinking, this man thought I must love cockfighting by me showing appreciation to his roosters. I thinking, when I asked about him about eating them, he must have took it as; yes, as soon as one dies after the fight. Miscommunication…I realized my Thai language is mai dee ka.

I was telling David or one of the bikers about it & they act like it’s no big deal, which I assume it isn’t. As they were all gearing up to get on their bikes, I’ve been waiting long enough to ask why they are all wearing facemask. I felt we all knew each other well enough to ask one; he said to me w/only his eyes piercing from his mask “Alquida”. I couldn’t stop laughing. I said honestly why? This other one next to him said; “Taliban”. They were too hilarious with their quick responses. Nevertheless, they never did answer me. Oh by the way whilst I’m on the subject, they said to me one of the nights that it is very understandable why Americans don’t want to travel & we should feel vulnerable. I only listened to what they had to elaborate on the situation. All they said; I comprehended. Though, it’s not going to keep me stuck in my city & away from the whole world. I asked them their opinion on Bush, not one had a bad statement about my President. I liked that nor were they keep hushed about it either, all were very opened straightforward men.

Were back on the road to headed to Chiang Dao Resort on Route 1007. It’s getting to be dusk again, but I knew my horsy was a breed winner in the dark, no fears, had all faith in him. We stopped to get fuel at 2 different location to save time just So. from the Resort. We arrived approx. 7:30pm. I couldn’t believe even in the dark how magnificent this Resort is!! Something else, spectacular & we’re the only ones there!! Does anyone know about this place? A must just to go see.

I couldn’t believe spendthrift David rented a whole 2-story chalet w/a fireplace (house) for him, Zach, Sean & I. It was some else. Now this I loved…..I was now Alice in Wonderland. I couldn’t believe how far David & I had to walk to get to the place. I gave him a huge hug & a kiss on the cheek for the 1st time. This was all too good to be true & that’s exactly how I felt. He asked for me to go get the Monkey (no lie, Zach) & Sean cas’ they would never find us out here. They couldn’t believe it either how far they had to walk. (Really it’s a walk in the park, not like the norm at other places you stop at & you walk only a couple hundred feet at the most.)

The chalet had 3-bedrooms w/double-size bed each in them. One bedroom upstairs with shower & two downstairs w/another shower. In the living room there were 2 single mattresses on top of one another on the floor for another bed. Me feeling like I don’t deserve any bedroom since I’m really not on anyone’s expense; nevertheless very grateful, said I’d sleep in the living room & I really didn’t have a problem with it either. David said, no, the mosquitoes & bugs would get me. Zach said he take the living room & I said I really don’t mind the floor bed. Zach said; “women either you get in that bedroom now or your going to loose it!” I obeyed Master’s order, not arguing. It was very comical how he said that statement.

We all showered & went out to eat at the restaurant at the Resort. This place is something else. I think I’ll also stay here on my honeymoon. All was fine & dandy, no complaints coming out of my mouth. I had my delicious wine in front of me, what more could a girl ask for? During dinner, David told me he heard “Doc” (Malaysia Chapter/Ultra Super Glide) was missing. Some went out both directions to find him. I didn’t think much of it. I talked w/Doc a few times he’s a sensible man. I figured he must have decided to stopped & get a massage before checking in after see this place wasn’t’ too close to any major city. Sure enough, I heard from David later, Doc was really lost. They found him wondering the streets in Fang. I couldn’t stop laughing. I didn’t see Doc that night, in the morning he got my 2 cents. I walked over to him & asked him; “Doc, did all those mopeds in Fang start looking like Harleys? He gave me a big hug & said’ “yaw they really did” in a serious tone of voice. Tears are falling from my eyes now remembering that moment.

After dinner, I told the people at my table I’m going back to my room that I was tired. I was, but I really wanted to lay on that picnic table outside our house & look at the stars. I took my bottle of wine & walked back & jumped in my jammies. I grabbed my 2 comforters & pillows out from my room, placed one comforter down on the table & the other on top of me whilst I did my plastic surgery kit looking at the stars. I was in Heaven.

David came back 1st and asked what I am doing. I told him to look up, it didn’t mean much too him. When he see my bag full of nighttime goodies for my face. He’s telling I don’t need all that to keep me beautiful. Aww you too sweet David. If I didn’t keep doing my face faithfully all these years, I’d be shriveled up by now. He still didn’t agree & but I kept doing my face.

He sat next to me on the table & we chatted. Honestly, really not that easy to chat when he riding the curving hills w/his bike. He’s a sweet adorable man. Any way, he said he’s getting cold & here I am far from being cold. Zach started a brilliant fire in the fireplace. I still didn’t want to go in. David comes back out saying I need to get in the house & I said I prefer to sleep outside. Now he really thought I’m nuts. I told Zach he can have my bedroom. David’s outside talking to me trying to convince me to sleep in the house. I tried to explained I felt so much at peace right now I don’t want to go in. He didn’t understand me. They’re all freezing staying in the warmth of the fire blaring in the house & Jade wants to sleep outside on the picnic table.

I knew David wasn’t a horn dog with his tongue dangling out of his mouth looking at me, so for him to understand why I want to do this I asked him to get under my blanket with me. I know I startled him by saying the comment. He looked at me & said I’ve never done anything like this before in my life (meaning sleep outside). I said; well let it be the 1st with me. We’re both laying on our backs side-by-side looking at the stars. Isn’t it a beautiful night I said to David. He concurred. After a half an hour I told him I’m ready to fall asleep any time. He telling me how freezing he was that maybe the wine was affecting my thinking. I should get in my bedroom. I promised him my senses were fully aware what was happening. He left & went upstairs to his bedroom.

In the early hours, some Thai guy comes over to me on the picnic table & wobbled me a little. He’s not able to speak any English, & I didn’t understand his Thai either. I thought maybe he was concerned for me being outside. I tried to tell him I was enjoy the beauty of the stars & pointed up towards them. He looked up & he seemed he understood what I was trying to say in Thai. He smiled & left. Me, I rolled over & slept some more. I was so at peace. Long & behold David comes out & tells me to get up were running late. We were suppose to get a wake up call & didn’t. Later at breakfast, I told him about the Thai guy waking me up…blah, blah. Well that was our wake up call. Oops!! They’re all telling everyone, I’m nuts, slept outside all night. Everyone were complaining how cold they were sleeping. Huh, did I miss something or just hot blooded! [:)]
 

Jade

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Feb 25, 2003
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We had breakfast @ the Chiang Dao Resort. Once again, you need to check this place out.

I told "One" (1 of the road captain) earlier, if these guys can ride like this, he must take them on Route 1234/1130 thru Mae Sa Long. Previously, I told Zach & Sean to take it either way. Cas’ by the time the others rode on Route 1089, they catch up or beat us by the time we/others would make it to Route one.

I was so pleased to hear “One” decided to change the Route to 1234. I was so excited, cas’ I knew these guys would love it & I thanked him!! I could see Zach was thrilled too! Before we left that morning, I went around telling the girls/men since we won’t be stopping in Tha Ton to look up high to the left to see the huge Buddha up on the hill. There were several prior times I did this. I said; if you see me point, repeat point to the next rider behind you. In fact, they were grateful I did this; otherwise, they wouldn’t have known to look. Same as the temple in Mae Sa Long.

Well I figure you know the Routes we took, 107 / 1234 / 1130 / 1. We stopped in Mae Sa Long for others to see. Last thing I want to do is shop. I was trying to talk to this lady at one of the shops for a toilet. David starts talking to her. I must have had a funny looking expression on my face. He looked at me & said; “she understands me”. Huh, I’m thinking? He told me she said I could use her toilet in the back of her shop/home. OK….so I did! (I have to admit, most of us educated or not from the USA don’t know much about the other countries. Singapore is mainly from China descendants. Why David said she understood him MSL mainly Chinese)

David may not know Thai, but him having the Asian accent (tones), they understand him much better than me trying to use my Thai. For instance, in Chiang Rai, I said; “Little Duck”, they didn’t understand. David said; “Little Duck”, they understood. That story to come……

After MSL, we rode up to Mae Sai for a brief stop so people could take pictures of the Burma entrance. I told some, yes I walked over there in February but had no intensions do it this time around that’s it’s really not worth it. I told them my opinion how I saw it on the over side in Thakhilek. You pay $5.00 & give them your passport. It looks analogous to Mae Sai, but has been beautified by the Burmese authorities so that all looks fine and dandy in Burma. I told them their 250 bt most probably go directly to the SLORC, which more than likely be used to buy bullets to maintain its reign of terror. Told them to give me their 250 bt & I’ll donate it to the “Free Burma Organization”. They looked at me seriously; but like I told them, my opinion. I said I’d burn the pictures on CD with the ones I taken previously.

If we had more time in Mae Sai, I would have had David ride me over to see the family at Mae Sai G/H. Another bummer since I was so close. I just hope to see the father & sons at Bike Week, which I didn’t.

We rode on Route 1290 to Golden Triangle. We stopped for lunch at a restaurant on the river before the Opium Museum. (I don’t recall the name. Either way, I wouldn’t recommend the place. Bad service, food we ordered, no good. My table left hungry. They had a Golden Triangle sign there, but nothing like the one across from Opium Museum.) I remember these guys on dirt bikes about to leave & I started chatting with them. I saw the sticker on one’s bike www.asiabiketours.com. I said to him; I can’t believe how much money you’re spending on this tour, you should have hired me…. He said; will you take me thru several countries. Maybe in 2 years I said smiling. But hey, if you have the buck, enjoy the ride. Zach was near by me & I told him, he needs to join them since he’s on dirt bike now. (Sniggers) [:I]

I tried to get some of the fellows to ride up to the viewpoint up the side rode from the Opium Museum, but they didn’t seem like they wanted to leave the group. I told them they’re missing out. I’ll put those pictures on the CD also what they missed. AS were ridng onto Chiang Khong, I waved good bye to the Japanese trekker as he was getting off the bike. He was such a nice guy also.

We rode onto Chiang Khong taking Route 1129. When Zach (co-captain) was at the “Y” where you could have taken the route along Mekong River, I yelled at him & pointed down the road; “That way is better”. He smiled. David & I started taking off riding loosing the others. They can be so dang slow. A few miles after we passed the Sala View, there was this wacky truck driver. This wasn’t just a truck this one was a COLOSSAL truck & it wasn’t fully loaded either. He was driving like a bat out of hell. Cars were riding in the grass on the other side of the road but laughing as they did it. The driver was on the ass of one of the riders then finally passed them. David & I are just laughing…this guy is truly nuts!! David as a final point (thru this shitty narrow road to me) actually full throttles us past the uncontrollable truck. I told he’s going to be on our behinds next. Naw he said; he won’t catch us, once again he patty me on my left leg. The truck did tried to catch us as if to attest a point to us, but he never caught up to speed racer David.

Before Chiang Khong some bikers were stopping. I told David; “let’s move on, they’ll be there for over an hours” so we didn’t stop. We rode thru Chiang Khong. I told him I wanted to for him to stop in front of CK Massage to say “hello” to Nai & Gonya. I couldn’t believe it. It was daylight & I couldn’t believe it still looked NYC. As soon as we passed the temple on the left a ways down, I knew we passed it. I didn’t want to bother him to turnaround so we rode on. “One” was at the road where we need to turn onto Route 1174 to Chiang Rai.

Before we were to stop where “One” was, I told David I know how to get to Chiang Rai, let’s not stop otherwise we’ll never get to Chiang Rai by dark. He agreed. We told “One” the others were back there at a fuel station, & more would be stopping there. You could tell that stop wasn’t on the agenda. “One” asked me if I knew how to get to Chiang Rai. I lied & said yes. (Now if Zach didn’t have my bike with map in the tank bag, sure I’d find the way. I have never been to Chiang Rai nor did I have any interest. CR to me means I may have to get on more Penicillin.)

Now that David & I was on our own, I eventually told him I really don’t know, but promised him I’d find Chiang Rai & the “Little Duck Hotel”. He laughed; he couldn’t believe I said that I did. He didn’t seem too worried either. I think he kind of like the thought I wanted to loose or be away from the others.

We rode down Route 1174. We were riding thru this small village there were chickens ever where. Some knew better to get out of the road. This one hen was lost didn't know which direction to take to clear the path David was coming. As we were getting closer the hen decided to go the other way & it hit David's bike flopping back hitting my leg. I turned around to look back. The hen flopped up in the air her feathers blowing all around. I told David he needs to go back and pay his 80 bt for killing someone hen. He said; they'll be out there soon to pick it up to eat for dinner that night. He said he did them a favour making it easier for them.

Riding down Route 1174, David each time him saying to me “which way now” when some roads looked like it ‘may’ lead to CR. I’d stayed strictly positive the whole time, didn’t want him to think I really had him lost. I said turn this way, go that way, and he’d just patting my left leg smiling the whole time. It was fun speculating the whole time!!! [:)] (David, GT….GPSs are they a good investment?)

Finally coming upon the city Phaya Mengrai, once more he said; which way now? Me knowing I can’t trust the Siam sun going down over the hills, I said turn right. A few blocks down we stopped at a fuel station to wait for the others or a few of them. I said to him, you don’t trust me do you? I started asking some Thais; “Chiang Rai” they pointed the direction I wanted to take. I said to David; “I told you so & you thought I was lost.“ He believed me, but didn’t want the others think we are lost or missing. We waited at least 30-45 mins before any others started showing up.

We left there onto Chiang Rai. Oh yes, we’ll find the “Little Duck Hotel”, I said to “One”. David just shaking his head knowing he doesn’t know what’s in for him next. Four others followed us when we left fuel station on Route 1152. Somehow with me directing, we hooked up with Route 1020 to CR. (After looking at my map later that night, I saw all these quicker ways to get to CR, but they didn’t know I screwed up.)

When we rode into CR, my 1st thoughts, Lordy, I wasn’t expecting a town like Chiang Mai. I knew my group were all high rollers, I’m looking for a largest hotel named “Little Duck”. Me on back trying to be pilot, I took our small group all thru the streets in CR in the dark. I finally told David to stop so I can ask where the “Little Duck Hotel” is. That’s when I said it, they didn’t understand, then David said it w/his Asian accent the same hotel name…..sure enough they understood him.

We went this way, that way, realizing we saw or we past the hotel coming into CR. We finally arrived at the “Little Duck Hotel”. It was a HUGE high-class hotel. You would think they would have a Neon Light Sign on top of the hotel, “LITTLE DUCK”. No, no…had to make it difficult w/a “little” sign you could barely see at the side of the entrance. When others were asking where we’ve been David’s sister said; “Oh Jade took us sight seeing in town to also to go shopping”. She was such a good-natured lady about the whole mess being lost & I thanked her.

Not that I’m unappreciative girl, but another fancy room not needed for me. They tell me not to worry about it, enjoy it, and think no more. Easy for them to say, but I felt really bad. I’m in Thailand & I don’t need all of this luxurious living. Time clock was set again for me to be back downstairs in lobby in 40 mins. to go out for dinner. I said; give this girl a break. Lucky enough to get another 10 mins added on.

It was on your own again this night to eat. We took a taxi/van to "Salung Kom" or could be "Saluuk Kom" on Phahonyothin Road by 5 Junction in city district to eat. They ordered again. A couple from Bangkok, nicknames “Push Pin” & his girlfriend “Nan”. Easy names for me to remember. Very good food. Nan asked me where I wanted to do after dinner….silly question I told her. I want to go to a Disco. OK, she said. Even though, they’re both from Bangkok, they knew all about CR nightlife. David looking at me again, like I flew over the cook coo nest. I had to tell him, “Hey I’m on Holiday. As much as you all want to feed me, I need to get my exercise. Jade doesn’t want to turn Moo!!

Nan, Push Pin, David & I went back to the Hotel. Two San Francisco (American/Chinese) men whom came over to attend CMBKWK w/o bikes came along with us.

Next…nightlife in Chiang Rai....Disco, gigalos, tables being played, foolish men ~Jade [:)]
 

Jade

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Feb 25, 2003
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The night after dinner, we left to go to the disco at “Par Club”. (Close to the “Little Duck Hotel”, but not walking.) Since the majority of our group wasn’t Thai we had to pay more to get in the club. The 150 bt you paid to get in was good for one drink, so really it evened out. I walked into the club & it was paradise for me. This club belonged in NYC. I couldn’t believe CR had a stupendous club as this. It was huge, large stage & loud. The male/females singers were incredible. They put on a great singing & dance show. The whole place was remarkable. As usual, most men won’t dance until they have a few mood alternating drinks in their blood for courage. There were a few Thai guys dancing away at their table & I went up to one & started dancing behind him since he was so into the groove.

He stopped immediately, couldn’t believe this girl was dancing behind him. His table all started laughing. I said, “Koon mai chai sanuk ka”. He eventually went back on the floor to dance with me. We were the 1st ones to start dancing. During the evening, I could see all the night creatures coming out from their hole to the club. (Same/same as in America.) One of the San Francisco guys finally danced with me. He was a very good dancer. Us Americans dance much differently from the Thais. Though the Thais loved our dancing & tried to dance like us.

Now the 2 gigalos from San Francisco were starting to move their hips around after a few pours. Push Pin told one of them to go over & pull this girls string from her halter-top. I could tell by the look in his eyes, it was very enticing to do. The table of 5 Thai girls were very inviting for those two gigalos whom walked over to start chit chatting.

I could tell David wanted to get the hell out of this place, so I went up to the bar & bought him a bottle of whiskey to spare me more time so I could stay a little longer. I asked for the best whiskey, but only to find out David said it was awful. I don’t think David is totally straight lace, but he told me, since he’s been hanging around me, I have him drinking, staying up late, & all the other bad karmas he’s not use to; I’m plain bad influence on him. I told him, it’s ok, I won’t tell any one……[;)]

When I was up at the bar buying David a bottle of whiskey, sure enough there’s one of the SF gigalos writing down I’m sure e-mail address or mobile for this Thai girl. He didn’t see me, but I kicked him in the ass. He turned around laughing. I said to the girl, this is my husband, don’t let him lead you on. He’s a nice guy, but he’s coming home with me. SF couldn’t believe I was saying all of this. I put my arm around him & told him he needs to get back to the table. I did all this only to embarrass him; which it worked. Though he stayed @ the bar, where he eventfully wondered back to the table where the girls were.

We were all having a blast there; well maybe David was the only one who wanted to get the hell out of there with the load sound system blaring. So I knew is it was time to go. I got up to get the gigalos from the table to tell them we’re leaving, & Push Pin said don’t go over there. He saw a Thai guy go over there, another words the girls’ pimp. If I, female went over there to pull them away from the table there may be BIG trouble. He said it would be much better for him, a male to go over to the table & tell them we’re leaving. (We all rode together in a van & we told the van to pick us up at a certain hour.)

This Par Club is a blast if you love to dance. The show/singing & dancing was excellent. I recommend going there, but you foolish men are always being worked. The 2 gigalos couldn’t believe it when Push Pin told them in the van. They had fun so it didn’t matter to them feeling that they were being played w/the Thai girls. When we arrived back at the hotel all the others went out for some more pubs by the hotel. David & I stayed at the hotel & had a couple drinks in the Piano Lounge before going upstairs to sleep. He’s telling me my wake up time & I told him, here’s my key to my room, wake me up, cas’ I’m taking both phones off the hook. Sure enough, bright & early, David knocks on my door, I’m sleeping away, he comes in my room & said it’s time to wake up Sleeping Beauty. You have 30 mins to be downstairs…DAVID, I said in a moaning voice, you can’t expect me to get ready that fast.

I had breakfast @ the hotel. I felt sick. When was I going to learn, I cannot drink cheap whiskey. By the time we left, which I don’t have an inkling all a blur, plus I didn’t have to worry, I’m only a passenger. I put my head on David’s shoulder & tried to sleep. We headed down Route 1211 onto Route 118. We all stopped for fuel at a nice station. Thai bystanders were checking out all the bikes. I was sitting next to Zach which his/mine bike was in front of us. I said; Zach, are you embarrassed nobody is looking at your bike?” (You had to be there) He said; nope, I liked that bike. A couple days prior, he said he turned the bike over 4 times getting on it. How do I do it w/o falling? I put my hips up to his & he had longer legs than me. I showed him how easy it was. He eventually parked near a curved each time to help his leg over so he wouldn’t put on another show for us. When he told me this, I told his father to pull over a couple different times so when he was about to get on the bike I could take a picture of him falling. Each time Zach saw what I intending to do, he never made a mistake. Real funny!!!

David & I move on past the other riders. Finally I said I need to go to the bathroom to look out for one. Of course, David passing all these fine looking fuel stations & I said; David, I can’t wait much longer, it’s knocking at the door. I saw a place & in a nice way pleading please turnaround. Me so tired, I didn’t realized till I hopped of the bike it was the Cabbages & Condoms Restaurant. David stay by his bike since too many onlookers were checking it out. His bike is something out of this world. When I came back, I gave him some condoms key chains & condom magnets for his souvenir, he just looked at me like what the hell was that all for & smiled. Then I took him inside so he could see the place. He didn’t know where or what place he had parked.

Lek took us on the back roads thru Chiang Mai. I couldn’t believe all the beautiful houses/condos that were in CM. Anyway we all stopped at MK Restaurants to have lunch. Really good place to eat. You basically order the food you want to put into your soup. All was delicious what they ordered. I’m being quiet at our booth, just tired & Sean said; “Jade why you being so quiet?” I said; “I’m being subservient”. He laughed. I was in desperate need for a power nap. Zach was lost this time & he finally found us an hour later at the restaurant.

“One” took us to his pub/restaurant attached to the MK Restaurants building. Now I know why he’s so fast on a motorbike. In the back room, Freddie Spenser trained him to race. “One” had his “Lucky Strike” leather outfit he use to race in on the wall, a Harley hanging from the ceiling & so much more. No wonder why I couldn’t keep up with him when we took off racing. In my mind, he should have been disqualified for not telling Zach & I. He wasn’t playing fair.

From there we checked into our room at glamorous Imperial Mae Ping Hotel in Chiang Mai. Zach & I shared a room for the 1st time. He dropped off his bags & left. Me, I’m taking my time organizing my luggages & took a shower. I had to then get over to Joe/Tom’s cas something was wrong with my chain. It wasn’t the chain but the back sprocket was totally worn. We just switched out bikes, since they wouldn’t have the new one till Monday. Always good to see them each time I pull up seeing smiling faces including Gonya.

I’m back in the hotel room, Zach comes in and said, this is typical. You have all your sh*t all over the place & I only have one bag, but then again you’re a girl. I said, hey but it’s all organized. He really didn’t care.

Later that night, “One” held a private party on the top floor of “Porn Ping Tower” hotel. Free eats, drinks, & a beautiful open view. You could see all around Chiang Mai. It was a very nice party. It was the King’s Birthday that night, fireworks going off everywhere & enchanting candles going up in the air. Too bad my camera couldn’t take good pictures in the dark.

David & I left. I took him over to meet all at Rudy’s, but his establishment was closed & I know Rudy isn’t Thai. We walked down to John’s Place to see if “Aye” was out selling flowers but I didn't see her. We decided to return to our hotel and enjoy the piano player & his female solo singer. David was kind enough to let me drink my wine & he started to drink with me. We had so much fun talking. He’s such a astonishing man. Then he told me he knows a lot of Americans use the "F" word too much & I need to stop using it. I said I didn't realize I said the "F" word that much, but he said I did. So I gave him my middle finger & said; "I didn't use the "F" word". [:)]

He had to leave to pick up his wife at the airport @ 11:30pm. I had to promise I wouldn’t run off to the discos. I’d be a good girl & stay right here till he returns so I can meet his wife Alice. I told him I hate just to sit here. All these other men will think I’m here for a pick-up. He told our waitress to bring me another liter of wine. What does he think, I’m a wine”o”? I won’t leave as long as my wine is in front of me? I walked him out to the van. Yes, yes, I promise I’ll be in the same seat when he came back. I couldn’t stand sitting there with all these men gawking at me. I told the waitress I’ll be right back & took my liter to my room. Figuring David wouldn't be back till midnight, I went downstairs & sure enough he was there with his wife waiting. No, no I said, I didn’t go to the Discos. I couldn’t stand sitting there alone nor looking for uninvited company.

He, his wife & I talked till 3am @ the piano bar even though it closed hours ago. I know she’s probably thinking, we’re both pissed & why in the hell is David drinking. David & I was chuckling the whole time talking about our ride together. We did indeed have so much fun riding together. Alice was very nice the whole time. I just don't think she knew what to make out of David & I on wine.

I slept in the next morning. I couldn’t get out of bed. I didn’t even hear Zach come in or leave that night/morning. He comes back around 1pm & told me to get out of bed. I knew I had a big night ahead of me & didn’t want to be burned out, only wanted to glow. He said a few of them was going to go riding & I said I’ll go. He said I could come but best I didn’t. They were making other stops for one. I knew what that meant so I stayed in bed.

I have to say, the whole 2.5 days during Chiang Mai Bike Week 2003, I mainly stayed around the group of 40 I was on the ride with. I was so comfortable with them, there was no need I needed to seek any others. I had the best of men with me @ CMBKWK.

I finally decided to get up, still exhausted. Time schedule for dinner was 6pm. Best to start now since I’m moving slow. I don’t want to be late for my dates. The place I thought we where going to eat was the “River Bar Pub and Restaurant”. Here I already left message for David Unkovich & Stan G. that I’ll be there. We’ll my group went to “Nang Nual Seaford & Steak” on the river.” It was a very nice relaxing place. They ordered the food as always & all was marvelous.

I asked David if I can have the van drop me off at “River Bar Pub and Restaurant”. Why you want to go there? Well I’m not the only one in the van that wanted to go either. Majority, including David & Alice got out of the van. The event had a lot going on there. I didn’t see David or Stan, but I couldn’t expect them to wait for me when I felt I stood them up. I went inside & there was all the other ones from the ride drinking 50% Smirnoff Vodka & Coke. I said you don’t drink Vodka with Coke. I started making them all Vodka Martinis, which they loved. It seems none of them knew how to make one. I apologized not having a green olive to put in their glass.

That night I met Sumon. He’s the owner of “Ride Thailand” magazine. www.ridethailand.com, www.phuketbikeweek.com, & www.phuket-mc.com. He was having his own private party for “Ride Thailand” which he invited my men & I. When we were all leaving to attend the party, I saw David Unkovich coming in but he had a long day in Chiang Rai. A Japanese man crashed his bike & went over the edge of the mountain just south of Doi Mae Salong. The rider ended up 80 meters down, David Unkovich helped get him out & into hospital in Chiang Mai.

We all went over there. There was a lot of people there. I settled for Singhas & stayed away from the whiskey. They were having the “Most Beautiful Girl” contest. My guys were telling me to go up & I said no, I don’t strip nor do I show. They said, no, no Jade it isn’t like that. Then the hostess said, “Ms. America” you come up here. The last thing I wanted to do is having all eyes spectacled at me on the stage. I finally went up, like I have a fat chance against 9 other slim beautiful 20+-year-old Thai girls. The way you win, the men have to buy roses. Whichever girls gets the most roses wins.

The first one whom presented me with a rose is from Bangkok (from ride). He came up knelt on one knee & gave me a rose, he was such a sweetie. I bend down & Wai-ed him & gave him a kiss on his hand. All the men in my group were coming up with roses for me & I did the same jester to each & every one of them. It was so much fun, but I wanted off the stage. By the time they counted the roses, I had approx. 4-6 dozen, I came in 3rd place. Too me, I’m thinking not bad at all going on 42 yrs vs. the other Thai girls who are so young & beautiful.

After the contest, I was dancing with all my guys. They love to ballroom dance. One of songs the DJ played was “Imagine” by John Lennon. I stood up & looked at all of them, put my arms out to them & asked who would like to dance me. Well they all wanted to. So I took turns dancing from one to the next during the song, we had no dilemma “to live as one”.

Later that night when I arrived at my hotel, I knew where everybody’s room was. I put roses on all their doorknobs. (I did this almost every night previously, cas’ they were so good to me.) I still had so many roses left, I knew Zach wouldn’t be back in the room for a few hours even though it 4am. I took all the rose pedals off the stems, went down the hallway to the elevator & had hundreds of rose pedals that led to our room. (I did this to embarrass Zach whenever he decided to come back.) I pulled back his sheet cover on his bed & put the remaining rose pedals all over on his bed, then pulled the sheet back, like his bed has never been touched. Sean & I laughed so hard.

Next morning, was the BIG ride (Approx. 300+ riders) to the Children’s Khun Jae School right outside of village of Phrao. Sean & I was the only hung over fools to make it to the ride. Even the non-hung over ones didn’t show up in our group. We both wasn’t into the ride, but hey it’s the last day for CMBKWK. When I was about to leave the room for the ride Zach walks in the room, up all night. He strips down to his shorts to hit the bed, long & behold, he said what the hell is all this? (he was there the night I won). I said “American Beauty” & left.

It wasn’t a good morning for Sean & I trying to find “Porn Ping” hotel from the “Mae Ping” even though we could see it up & beyond the other buildings. We were brain dead. We finally made it. This is another time I could have slept in for another hour seeing as they weren’t ready to leave as scheduled. Whilst they’re getting all ready for the ride, I decided to lay down & take a nap on the cement slab in front of the hotel. With all the commotion, I couldn’t believe I actually passed out. Thum comes over to the ledge where I’m sleeping, saying Jade get up where leaving. I said I didn’t believe him to wake me up when he really intended on leaving. He knew what I meant, cas' it wasn't the 1st time, so he did.

We took Routes 1001 then east on Route 1150 for a few miles then up the hill paved with dirt to the Khun Jae School for children to give them school supplies donations. The school had a superlative views. Someone should have built a dream home here. All around you, the pamaramic views were stupendous. The had a supreme lunch for all of us. The kids were so much fun. Me, the only one looking like a “white” person all stared at me. I was doing my best to talk to them in Thai. They just giggled. It seemed the school were for all ages. I had my picture taken with these teenage boys. I told them, I’m going to tell America they are all my boyfriends. The loved it!

After lunch we headed East on Route 1150. Great road! I started to pass a lot of them & before you know it, the Siam Super Bikes were passing me. When I hit Route 118 going So. I stopped at one of the fuel stations to have one of the guys tell the others I rode back to CM because of bike trouble. I really wanted to get back into bed for a power nap. I’m glad I went on, cas’ Sean didn’t get back till after 6pm.

Time is short again to make it to the “Official” CMBKWK party downstairs at the Mae Ping Hotel in the Beer Garden. Lucky for me that I didn’t have to use my brain to find it. It’s on the 1st floor outside from my Hotel.

To be cont’d…& my time is running out to finish the final ending.
 

Jade

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Feb 25, 2003
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I wanted to insert whereas I disregarded in other previous writings. My group never failed to remember me at all times. Never once did they ever let me ever feel like I was on my own. They always invited me to whatever they were doing. I truly had the nicest people all around me, which I met on the long ride from Tak before arriving in Chiang Mai for Bike Week (weekend).

After my power nap, I had to get up. This was the BIG CMBKWK Party night. To me, it’s unusual to have a BKWK Party on a Sunday like the States, but I am in Thailand. They have their own way of doing it & I never had any criticism.

I brought a few Harley outfits from US to wear for this BIG night. One was elegantly slinky, another one eye-catching, & well ahhhh, the other one…..well you know how Harley usually coincides with leather. I had some reservations which outfit I wanted to wear. I had to deem what is appropriate at Thailand Bike Week. It was a little too early for a Singha, but I pulled one out of the fridge deciding which getup to wear. As I’m trying on each outfit & looking in the mirror, it was really a hard choice. I didn’t want to look like a loose floozy, nor did I want them to think “GIRL + BIKE = EASY.” Then I contemplated, heck with it, it’s my last night here (@ the CMBKWK Party), and I opted for the Harley leather halter-top, skort, heels & my HD cap.

I hate to look like the ordinary Harley dude/chick wearing a t-shirt, jeans, and leather/jean vest showing all my pins & patches when I’m female. That look just isn’t me, owning a Harley or not. I don’t like dressing looking like a man.

After I was ready to head downstairs, nobody in my group was answering their room phones. I knew I wasn’t late. Zach never came back to the room, not that he was supposed to either. I’m dreading the fact I have to stroll into the party alone, as if to say, “Here I am boys!” I have to divulge, that is one of most fears, ‘walking into a bar by myself’.

I called David’s mobile number in Singapore, someone picks up (I’m guess in Singapore) & he gave me another number to call. I called that number & long & behold it’s Zach saying “hello”. Where are you I asked. He told me where they were sitting, etc. I strutted into the party & they were raising their hands to let me know, I’m close. I knew all eyes were on me, but I held my head up proudly walking over to my table of appealing SE Asian men/women. My riding partner David, such a conscientious man paying special attention to me, ordered me a bottle of wine. Thanks David! He in all probability belief, it’s his last night to deal with me. A week later he found out he was wrong….more to come on that one.

The dissimilarity between American female HD/riders & the SE Asian females are they are never green-eyed filled with jealousy. These girls all started coming over to me saying; “Jade, you look so sexy tonight, & etc.” They’re all telling me they wished they would have worn something sundry than what they had on. I told them I was unsure about wearing the getup, but they all gave me encouraging remarks. They loved I wore the outfit & said not to have any regrets.

I am far from having a perfect body, nor do I ever think I do. Believe me, I used all stomach muscles to hole my belly in that outfit. Now in the USA at Bike Rallies, majority of wimmim need to put their grannies breast back in their bra, or at least please, hide your 3 bellies that should be one. Do they honestly think their attractive? American women rarely ever give you a compliment or a nice comment how nice you look. It’s all competition at a rally or not, when really there isn’t any competition. The men now can be so grosstested!! I’m speculating, “When was the last time they have seen their dick?” Majority of Americans need to loose some weight before they even considered wearing a construed outfit or even show a private part on their body.

My last bike rally was in Daytona Bike Week 2002. I have had enough of them all in general (in the US.) I no long go on Charity Rides in my local area, cas’ they start drinking @ 10am + the ride goes from bar-to-bar for another drink & really no riding. Harley of Cincinnati knows why I don’t attend any & they comprehend. One night I thought how much money I could/can spend at a major bike week, & all the charities run. If I stop all these crappy rallies/rides, I could go such much farther….which I do now.

Sorry David I went on a tangent rampage for a few…[:I] What this is all adding up to is I can go so many other places without my Harley, rent a bike in another country & enjoy my own rally with all the people I meet. Why I came back to Thailand. I am getting so use to riding on my own, it is getting very hard to ride with a partner; then again, you have to be happy with yourself.

At the party, I must have missed the contests like best bike, best tattoo, etc. Although, I didn’t really know the agenda of all the happenings. I never paid my dues. Either I was taken care of by the North Comets or they never questioned me to pay when I walked in. I walked around the booths vendors had that night. They had out of this world prices on commodities. If was so hilarious when Archim/Malaysia wanted me to take a picture of him with his hands touching all the goodies.

They had plenty of a variety of entertainment on the stage till 1am. I spotted Stan & David-GT a few tables away & went over to say “hello”. They said they would have never know it was me the way I was dressed from the times they seen me at Rudy’s Sax Pub. I took them around & introduced them to all my newfound friends from the ride. David left after a little while & Stan, well…he didn’t want to leave my group. They were high-quality people, weren’t they Stan?

Stan received his dribbles down the side of his mouth by going up on the stage to give his 20 or more Baht to the one whom he thought deserved consideration to be Ms. CM Bike Week. Stan I didn’t realize you blush. I have it on film….

My group left the party early cas’ they all had to wake up early the following morning to their designated home. I stayed at the party passed 2pm or should I say till it closed. I knew I also had to get up early to wish them farewell.

Waking up early this Monday morning wasn’t so hard or far from being a problem to do so for some odd reason. Mainly because I knew I had to say good-bye to all of them and make known how much I was thankful for all their compassion they gave me.

David-GT, this is the hard part…Still today, I don’t want to remember the emptiness I felt that morning. My eyes start to water just thinking about it now. How do I explain when I felt as if they desolated me not even know it? [:(]

Let me see, they were all on their bikes at 7:30am & I was genuinely happy, far from feeling sad. I was truly happy I had the opportunity to meet them & join them on their ride. I went down the row of bikes giving them all hugs & kisses wishing them a safe ride back home. I sensed I was okay them leaving for life. We all were said how happy we were to meet one another, we’ll keep in touch & we’ll be seeing one another soon. As they rode off & we all waving at one another good-byes, I turned around & went back to my room to sleep.

As I opened the door to my room, I looked around & thought, I can’t believe they in fact are really gone. It hit me like a ton of bricks. I sat on the bed & never felt so “alone”. I still had 2 more days in Chiang Mai, I felt lost! The previous 3 weeks on my own, I never felt like this. Yes, I had a great time by myself. I also had a great time with my group. I laid down on my bed & my mind was swirling out of control, far from the relaxation I normally needed for sleep.

I’m the type of person that rarely ever cries but I was too the point I had to do something before my tear ducts wanted to flood my eyes with water. I couldn’t believe me. I went downstairs & paid my 300bt for internet use (rip off, but desperate) to get Stan’s mobile # off the GT-Posting. I went back upstairs & called Stan around 8:30am. I told him I need to get out of this hotel before I loose it. Worse frantic feeling I had in a long, long time. I asked him to call David-GT if he could all go on a ride. (Yes, I was destitute!! This was too be my 1st time to ride with Western Men.) [:X]

I packed so fast & took a taxi over to the “Top North Hotel” where Stan was staying. I rented a room for the night there. I have to admit, this hotel is so suitable to stay. (Disregard each previous writing I said to stay at the Veerachai Court.) Stan was such a duly man. He said he did get a hold of David-GT & we’ll be meeting up with him around noon.

Stan took me to eat at Bier Strube although I wasn’t hungry. He was very understandable how I felt. He met them all the night before. At the eatery table, after talking, I was able to eat some. He took me to the Internet Café so we could catch up on e-mails. He was very good to me to keep me in high spirits.

David-GT showed up at the hotel & we took off for a ride. David on his African Twin, Stan on his Honda Phantom & me on exchanged Yamaha 250. (David, I know you told me that day I wrote on the report, I took that route in the beginning, but I wasn’t me. My heart was still dismay knowing my group was gone. Please add where we went cas I don’t know. I stopped taking note then.) Either way, we had a good run that day. We stopped at a charming place to eat lunch. Around that time, I was coming back to smiling self. I thank you David’s & Stan’s grace with your presence helping me back to myself. We all agreed to meet up later at Rudy’s Sax.

This one is too funny. Stan & I are back at the hotel. I called him & told him I’m going down to the Internet Café, Stan said he’d meet me there in a few. The Internet was out of order & she told me where the next walking distance one is. I pranced down to the other to e-mail my 3 sons. I thinking I hope Stan knows where to go; otherwise, I’ll see him @ Rudy’s Sax later. I’m on Yahoo Instant Messenger & Stan IMs me as to where am I at the other Internet was closed. I typed to him, I’m at the one around the corner from the other. He’s typing where’s he at. It was at a pretty large Internet Café. (I remember being here back in February). I looked around the room I was in & sure & behold I see Stan’s back facing me. I yelled “STAN!!!” He about died. We’re Iming each other only to find out we’re in the same room. I guess maybe you had to be there.

Like I have said many times, I hate shopping, although I waited to the last night to pick up some souvenirs for friends in America. I rode behind Stan on his Phantom to the Night Bazaar. Bizarre it is too me. Too many people all around for me. Stan did all the negotiations for the night lamps for me. I bought a bottle of Drakar’s cologne for men, only to find out it wasn’t the real stuff until I opened it up in my room. I was looking forward getting the heck out of there.

We walked over to Rudy’s Pub. I was glad to see all the ones I met before & the new ones. Gonya was there & ready to catch a Tuk Tuk for us to go to the Disco we went previous. I met Daniel Todd from America. He’s on his 3rd Global Ride. Very nice man. http://board.gt-rider.com/topic.asp?TOP ... hichpage=1 I had to explain to him, I only do riding for pleasure, he’ll never see my name on www.horizonsunlimited.com. He is a remarkable fellow & I hope I get to meet him again in the future. Gonya was more or less giving me her piercing eyes that she wanted to leave to go to the Disco. What is a mother to do when there’s so many attention-grabbing non-Thai men where I sit. I had to remember, who’s my most precious friend which is she, so we went off to dance.

My last night in Thailand & my first time ever being propositioned by any man; white, black, brown, yellow or Thai.

More to come.....
 
Feb 6, 2003
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Hey...Good report, good reading. Arrived in San Francisco after an 18 hour 747 ride from BKK - This city seems sleepy after BKK! Will be here a few days, head north 60 miles where my Suzuki 650GS is in a friends garage with the engine open and attempt to complete my work. Not looking forward to it and may just give up and pay the $55 hourly rate for a pro job.

Missing Thailand already and am thinking of a return in May (pending financial review).

Stan
 

Jade

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Feb 25, 2003
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Why thank you my good man Stan. I'm still trying to finish this up. I'm in Fayetteville, NC visiting my son who's in the Air Force. My other 2 sons think they no longer have a "mother".

Thanks for your kindness that morning when my SE Asia friends left me. I am most definetly missing them. So I'm off to Singapore/Malaysia Christmas morning to see them & I won't be returning until 13 an 2004, or maybe never come back. [:)]

Talk with you then....~Jade
 
Dec 21, 2003
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Jade:
Stay in Malaysia, please. My husband and I have been rolling, laughing at your mindless posts. He told me to write.
First you say how poor we USA H-D riders are, then write about a man crashing with your group after seeing an invisable monkey. Most of the big bike riders here in Thailand have no training on how to ride a big bike. They buy the big bikes to show off how much money they have. 1 out 100 has had any real training. Most know how to ride a 110 (everyone does), but you know it is a giant step from a small bike to a large one (or maybe you don't know).
Then you rave how the riders liked "your President." Did it ever dawn on you that they were too kind to tell you what they really think about your President? Just two weeks ago in Chiang Mai the farmers put a curse on your President. Ask the same question in Malaysia (try waving a USA flag). There families are now naming their newborns after Sadam, to honor him. No one is naming their children after your President. One of the stupidest things to do in Thailand, and anywhere else outside of your (and mine) Amerika is discuss politics.
Did you really rent a bike, and then give it (not authorized to ride it) to someone else to ride? Did you call and get an OK from the rental company first? Who were you trying to impress, him, his father or? Then the guy riding it was not taking care of it and let the chain get loose, eating up the rear sprocket. We are impressed. Maybe you were too drunk to check it yourself each night? Did he care? So you impressed someone on how you were able to screw the rental agency (they struggle to make ends meet as it is). Did you pay for the new sporcket?
From all the drinking you did it sounds riding in North Thailand for you was in a boozy cloud. This is one of the stupidest things a motorcycle rider can do in Thailand, anywhere, riding drunk. Drink until closing time like you did, sleep 4 hours and start riding does not mean you slept it off. That is about as stupid as believing drinking coffee will sober you up. The alcohol stays in your body for days (did you ever wonder why they need "28 days" to dry an alcoholic out?)
You wrote you came to Thailand and had no money and were sleeping in men's rooms, rooms paid for by men, eating meals they paid for, accepting free drinks, and riding without a bra. Then wrote and said you were not sleeping with any of the men. Jade, sober up and quit taking whatever drugs you are on. As my husband says: If it looks like a duck, if it walks like a duck, if it sounds like a duck, it's a duck. I have spent several years in Asia where one of the biggest misconceptions I have to overcome is all western female motorcycle riders were like the trash they see in the American motorcycle magazines and movies. With your behavior in North Thailand you have given us women a step back in gaining some integrity as female motorcyclists, thanks.
I have met some other western women riders here (I've been in Asia for over 6 years). Most were from Europe and were sensitive to the Asian culture and how they were perceived and made adjustments to their lifestyle (like no topless sunbathing). From what you have writen it's clear you made no adjustments and did what you do at home. My husband says giving the finger and saying the "F" word is lower than the lowest prostitute in Cowboy Soi would do. (Can I guess you smoke cigarettes too?) Yes, you put on a class act, suitable for the worst Harley bar in Daytona (Yes, I've been there too).
I am no expert on riding, but have raced and own several motorcycles. The one I use here is an enduro model, a little heavy, but not my Sporty (it would hate the heat!). The roads are good and fun to ride in the north, but in the cities a nightmare. Better is a 110. When riding I seldom see big bikes, unless it's for some club ride or "Bike Week". You would be surprised at how much time the big bikes spend parked in a garage. The Thais are not travelers, so seldom do they get out and take a long ride. When they do it is most times to go to a party.
Sorry to enlighten you, but what you have been writing about is fine if your trying to promote EASYRIDER magazine subscriptions. I don't believe you sobered up long enough to really see what its like in this part of the world, if we can believe what you wrote. As for your western riding friends you met in the bars, our guess is you will long be remembered. Take it to Malaysia, or back to where you came from. The rest of us (girls) will pretend not to know you.
Sandra Adams - Woman motorcyclist

Suzukisandi
 

Jade

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Feb 25, 2003
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Yep, I know why I stay away from American females only hang with the men..jealousy!! What is with all of you females? I can't help the fact what I type, are all facts set in stone.

Sandra, you don't seem too happy with yourself, very unpleasant person. These men aren't blind, they reckonized when they see "American Beauty". Makes me wonder how you present yourself..to the outside world.

Rental agency - "hello darlings & dearest Gonya!", the men, (SE Asian or Westerns) who wants a peck on their cheek from me? Sandra why you think they e-mail me telling me how much sunshine I brought into their life. Though they have coloured me beautiful even after leaving Thailand. [;)]

Why don't you take the time & type your own posting here. Type about your riding experience in Thailand, alone for 3 weeks & find 1 more week riding w/the SE Asian men alone.

Hopefully some of your inner ugliest will go away. Please grab a grip & squeeze your tension out for me. It wouldn't hurt to maybe grab both grips.

Please remember to [:)] each mile. Thai is on my side. My American Harley men & wimmim still love me after reading my report. Harley is so happy for me, they gave me a couple $50.00/ea collectable items to take to my Singapore/Malaysia men for taking care of their favorite HD girl.

No doubt in my mind, "You have a problem Sandra." Although all these people have met me & you're just another "ordinary" American. Please enlighten me with your trip report. I'll be waiting in anticipation. Remember to type only the "facts".

There's no one like me, isn't that right guys! [:X]
 

Jade

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Feb 25, 2003
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Before we begin let all of us (Westerns/SE Asia) bow our heads and say this prayer together for “Sandra”…..[|)]

“God or Higher Power grant us the serenity to accept the things we cannot change; courage to change the things we can; and wisdom to know the difference. Living one day at a time; Enjoying one moment at a time; Accepting hardships as the pathway to peace; Taking, as He did, this sinful world as it is, not as we would have it; Trusting that He will make all things right if we surrender to His Will; That we may be reasonably happy in this life and supremely happy with Him Forever in the next. Amen.”

Back to being propositioned…I asked Gonya if it is all right for Stan to come with us. I wanted him to experience the other side of Thailand from which is not known to him. We all took a Tuk Tuk back to the same Disco I was a couple weeks ago.

Gonya & I are always the 1st to hit the floor. I made Stan follow. We’re all dancing away, then these Thai “hotties” younglings started dancing with me. I was in the middle & they all around me. They made me feel like the “Material Girl” in Madonna’s video. I put my arms out & they’re on both sides. Stan’s getting a good workout from Gonya dancing & we’re all looking at one another laughing.

We continued dancing well over 30 mins +. I guess these hotties were getting aroused wanting to touch me now. One put his hands on my hips trying to move his way up to my chest. I grabbed his hands & looked @ him & just shook my head, “no, no”. Same with the other behind me wanting to touch my bum. They acknowledged what I meant for only 5 mins. We’re dancing & one takes my hand & puts it on his hard erection under his jeans. I stopped right in my tracks & said; “koon mai dee ka”. His expression went flat. I put my left hand in a flat position shoulder length with my right in a fist. I smacked my left hand. He knew exactly what I meant & so did his friends.

I walked back to my table. All four of them came over to me saying they’re sorry, that they love me all in Thai. Wai-ing me. Please accept their apology. I told them I accepted their apology, but I didn’t accept their actions & I will no longer dance with them. They kept on telling over & over how sorry they were & I believed them. Asking if I will at least come over to their table so they can talk to me more, which I declined.

Gonya & Stan must have wondered what the hell happened & seeing these hotties at my table & came back. Gonya asked & I told her what happened. She said to them in Thai, which I have no clue. They all knew what she meant & they left. She’s apologizing for their misbehaviour to me; which I told her, it’s not her fault for their actions. Then she went & told the manager/owner what they did to me. I told her I just wanted to get out of there. So we did. Now Stan the man, said to me, you mean they actually had a Hard-on? He couldn’t believe it. Stan I said, these Thai hotties are in their prime. He implicit. That’s Stan for ya!

We all went back to Rudy’s Sax. Later my favourite drinking buddy showed up, Herr Wilhelm. Last time I was @ Rudy’s, I rode him home on the back of my bike. That was a blast wasn't it Wilhelm? Where he took me to drop him off was enough to get me lost to find my motel, but I made it thru all the alleyways in CM.

Wilhelm & I very much enjoyed each other company talking with one another. He’s a very wise intelligent man. We could talk endless for hours. He’s such a sweetheart. We talked until the Rudy’s girls said it was time to leave. I asked him if he needed ride home. He asked where my bike was & I told him it’s around the corner @ Top North Hotel. He didn’t want to inconvenience me so we said our good-byes since it would be our last until I return. We keep in contact at present time now. He’s such a gent.

Next morning, Stan wanted me to take him on the Ride the CMBKWK riders took on Sunday. Since he couldn’t wake up that morning. Lordy, I can’t believe I remembered the routes only having 4 hours of sleep. I know I was far from being STUPID as one monotonous & uninteresting female “lacking any personality” might I add, may think. Always remember, when you encounter any western wimmim they envy you! Just blow them off. (Thai girls always love to see you. Why I said previously, talk to them even though you know you can’t convey any words with them!!!)

We took off around 10am after breakfast. Stan loved the ride. He was such a cutie on his Honda Phantom. I took him to Cabbages & Condoms Restaurant, cas’ he never heard of it. Took some pictures for him. I had to get back to the Hotel to make sure all my belongings were intact before I had to depart for BKK. I told Stan to take these other routes he hasn’t been on & I rode back to CM. (Stan, I won’t add what happened to you, but you know it was funny!)

I returned my bike back to Joe’s Goodwill Motorcycle rental. Golly gee, I couldn’t believe they still weren’t upset with me for lending my bike out to a distressful lad that crashed his Harley. Tom wasn’t there to say good-bye, so Tom, “I thank you for your upbeat spirit, stay young; I will miss you.” [:X] It was hard to say good-bye to Gonya. She was my best friend a girl could have. [:(] I will miss her also. Joe, who’s the best-looking Western man in CM, I could thank you countless. [:X] I had so many bags in his storage, he gave the grand ride on his custom made bike back to the Hotel. Thanks so much Joe, I appreciate all.

On the ride over, I asked Joe where I should have my last meal & he told me to go to the Mexican restaurant across the moat from the Top North Hotel. I don’t know what it was called, but it sure didn’t have any items for Mexican. (Mainly Thai & Italian.) I knew I was at the right place, cas’ the menu even said “Mexican” on the front. As I sat & ate, I put together all I needed in an envelope to finish up my report for David.

When I arrived back at the hotel I saw Stan’s Phantom in the parking lot. I called him up & we sat outside in the beer garden (let me add, it’s only 5pm, we didn’t have any beer) until it was time for the Hotel shuttle bus to take me to the airport. We both can’t believe it’s my turn to return to the States over a month & him to return shortly. We’re both bumming to have to come back. He helped me my luggage & we hugged each other good-bye, knowing we’ll see each other soon.

I want to thank the following people whom has made a difference in my life:

1. “Harley of Cincinnati” for the continual congenial support they always give me.

2. The man that hides behind a shadow thru E-mail whom rides & frequents Thailand often for his own personal reasons. He gave me the confidence, courage & strength, I don’t need a man or any partner, that I can do this on my own. He told me to not get onto David’s GT-Board to make any posts for any help, which I didn’t. He made this planning much harder for me. But I appreciate the added toil to do it on my own. He also asked me to stay away from Western men, but hey you know temptation is a part of life! I had to checkout the men @ Rudy’s Sax Pub. [;)]

3. To all I met at Rudy’s, waitresses, Rudy’s wife & the rest; you all know who you are. Thank you for all your inviting welcomes you gave to me. I will see all again soon. My guess, I'll long be remembered.[:X]

4. North Comets sincere supports allowing me join them on their ride. I so thankful you kept me updated via e-mail. I am so cherished I was able to meet you all & all the other riders on the ride. Keep up the good work up with CMBKWK. It was such a fun event from the Bike Weeks we have here in America. We will stay in touch. [:X]

5. I especially want to thank David Unkovich asking me to write my story riding alone in Thailand on his board. Although, I never professed to be a writer. [:X]


6. To all the Thai people I met, if it wasn’t for all your convivial smiles, I’d be lost without you. [:D]


For any single female who may need any help Riding Thailand solo, e-mail David Unkovich for my updated e-mail address. (I’ll be off the net in a month.)

I also strongly recommend if you decide to ride in Laos to e-mail Susan. She has a couple of postings under the GT-Board "Laos". She is more than happy to help you.

Lastly, some wimmin are pure painfully “ignorant”. These are the ones you need to sway away from. They have venomous snakes crawling in their heads, plain wicked. I have talked with so many Thai ladies, they are the ones whom have all the correct answers for Thai "standards" regarding female tourist.

American slogan: “Be all you can be”, don’t “Hate”, “Congratulate”.

"I’m not conceited…..just convinced!"

"Happy Holidays to each & every one"
 

BriTin

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Oct 27, 2003
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Jade: I very much appreciate reading your posts. I do have one regret though. My wife and I were riding in Thailand late in November and went to and stayed at some of the places you mention but never met you or the crew you were with (we were only riding 3 days). I admire the way you write with so much detail and enthusiasm. I still have to write mine up. We likewise are U.S. Harley riders and it was sometimes a very humbling experience to have been downshifted and pumping the brakes on a long downhill on our rented 250's only to have a barefooted biker and passenger scream past us on a 125 cc motorbike with bald tires! And we think we are living on the edge?