A couple of days in, and around Thoed Thai.

DKT Dave

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About 3 weeks ago I received a message from David GTR to ask if I wanted to join him on a ride up to Doi Mae Salong, and Thoed Thai. I had only been to Thoed Thai once before, and hadn’t overnighted there, so I readily agreed.

A time and place was agreed and I set off from Phayao for a very civilized 1300 meet in Chiang Rai. DMS and Thoed Thai are not too far from Chiang Rai so it was a leisurely ride from there through to our agreed overnight destination at Thoed Thai. The beautiful Rim Taan guest house. The Rim Taan is a great place to stay, central to town, and

After getting settled in we went next door to rehydrate and discuss our plan of attack for the next day. Dinner was at a little restaurant 50 metres up the road where the food was both plentiful and tasty.

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The next morning we were up early for a walk around the morning market, which was a large bustling affair for a small town like Thoed Thai. From there we headed up the hill to Wat Phratat Ka Kham for some views of the local area. Thoed Thai really is in a picturesque part of Thailand, offering superb views wherever you are in the area.

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The morning market

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Wat Phratat Ka Kham and views from the temple grounds overlooking Thoed Thai.

With a few clouds forming on the hills we decided to head out towards the Myanmar border area for a look around. After a breakfast of Sala Pao’s off we went. Our destination was the border area tucked right up in a corner of Thailand at Doi Hua Mae Kham, and a more out of the way place I think would be hard to find. It’s easy to see that international borders really are just a line on a map when viewed from the ground in an area such as this!

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The people out in these areas are so friendly, and will happily sit and chat with you if you take the time to stop and not rush through to the next destination. From chatting with a local shopkeeper in a tiny village, to buying ice creams for the local kids in another village, stopping for incredible views around almost every bend, the day was coming to an end and it was time to head back to Thoed Thai for the evening, as we still wanted to check out Khun Sa’s old Camp when we arrived.

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More to come.....
 
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DKT Dave

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We arrived back in Thoed Thai with enough daylight to have a good look around Khun Sa’s Old camp in central Thoed Thai. I had not seen it before, and it really is a major part of the towns, and indeed the North’s, history.

There is plenty of information on GT Rider surrounding a Khun Sa, and the role he played in the drug manufacturing trade in the area.

Unfortunately the camp is falling down to disrepair and the whole place, including all the possessions on display are in real danger of being lost to time. It is a real shame that there does not appear to be any preservation interest in all this important history....local politics perhaps? Whatever the reason, or political belief’s, once it’s gone it’s gone.....

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And up on a hill within the camp grounds is an underground cell where it is said that locals caught indulging in any of the product being produced were placed to “dry out”. For whatever reason, if you found yourself lowered into this place I don’t think you were in for a fun time, whilst there!

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I really wish I had known about this place a few years ago and seen it in its heyday when it was all maintained properly.

If you ever find yourself in Thoed Thai, be sure to see this camp, and whatever is left of it before it is too late. If this is on your list of places to visit, I would not delay. It is definitely worth the time and effort to get there.

What a fantastic day it had been, in remote areas, talking to locals, getting great photos, great memories, and seeing some incredible history. So much packed into one day!!

By this point the sun was going down, so we retired back to our rooms to freshen up, then meet next door for yet another lovely meal and a little rehydration.

More to come.....
 

Steve Merchant

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I am sort of sorry I missed this, I did get invited but had just had a 10 hour sit in the saddle and taken a flying fall up at the Raming tea plantation. Wasn't feeling my best. I went down to Thoerd Thai about 8 months back but think I missed the interesting bits just from lack of knowledge. But I did end up getting the salapao, a take home for the evening. My first visit to this area over 30 years ago there was no road, just a mud track and all across the top to Doi Mae Salong there were military guys in uniform who were certainly not Thai Army. I think it was just after that the Thais took full control and the name was changed from Baan Hin Taek. As I posted on your FB pictures, its the end of the world down there, the dead end road that doesn't cross the border.
 
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Guzzibs

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We arrived back in Thoed Thai with enough daylight to have a good look around Khun Sa’s Old camp in central Thoed Thai. I had not seen it before, and it really is a major part of the towns, and indeed the North’s, history.

There is plenty of information on GT Rider surrounding a Khun Sa, and the role he played in the drug manufacturing trade in the area.

Unfortunately the camp is falling down to disrepair and the whole place, including all the possessions on display are in real danger of being lost to time. It is a real shame that there does not appear to be any preservation interest in all this important history....local politics perhaps? Whatever the reason, or political belief’s, once it’s gone it’s gone.....

View attachment 143499View attachment 143500View attachment 143501View attachment 143502View attachment 143503View attachment 143504View attachment 143505

And up on a hill within the camp grounds is an underground cell where it is said that locals caught indulging in any of the product being produced were placed to “dry out”. For whatever reason, if you found yourself lowered into this place I don’t think you were in for a fun time, whilst there!

View attachment 143506View attachment 143507

I really wish I had known about this place a few years ago and seen it in its heyday when it was all maintained properly.

If you ever find yourself in Thoed Thai, be sure to see this camp, and whatever is left of it before it is too late. If this is on your list of places to visit, I would not delay. It is definitely worth the time and effort to get there.

What a fantastic day it had been, in remote areas, talking to locals, getting great photos, great memories, and seeing some incredible history. So much packed into one day!!

By this point the sun was going down, so we retired back to our rooms to freshen up, then meet next door for yet another lovely meal and a little rehydration.

More to come.....
I have been in a few drunk tanks but thankfully none like that hole in the ground.
 
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DavidFL

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Descending into Thoed Thai from Akha Sam Yaek, there was always one nasty steep, killer bend, that often had accidents.
On the trip with Dave DKT we noted they were working on it, but couldn't quite work out what was going on.
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My thoughts that were going do away with the tight bend, and install a tighter steeper one even? But that just didnt seem right.
And so it was, they split the corner into a "dual carriageway."

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Damn clever I thought, but I wonder how long it will last?
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The downhill view.
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The corner
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Check it out on the way to the GTR Dinner next week.
 

DavidFL

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Mae Mo, 13kms north of Thoed Thai, is a mixed community of KMT, Akha, Lahu, Shan villagers, that sits just below the border.
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400 metres before Mae Mo you can turn left & head out to Phaya Phrai, & the Chuoi Fong tea plantation that sits right on the border.
It is 4 kms out to Choui Fong tea, claimed as he biggest, oldest tea plantation in Thailand.

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At the junction with the road to Mae Mo / Phayaprai, facing south coming from Mae Mo is a classic road sign.
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DavidFL

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The Akha tea pickers & packers.
Returning from Choui Fong tea Dave DKT & I were fortunate enough to come across a group of Akha tea pickers by the road, having their tea picked up & weighed for payment. It was an entertaining encounter. 25 baht a kg was all they get for a sack.

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There's some tough, fit Akha gals out there.
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The accounting team
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Further on down the road, tea was being dried & turned in the sun.
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There's lots of good fertile country & hard workers out there.
It is a joy to be able to cruise around out there unhindered & mix in with the locals.
It always pays to take your time, smell the roses & chat with the locals. They often enjoy the encounters just as much.