Sitting around in my house at Tha Makaeng, 10kms east of Tha Ton I decided the weather had changed enough to announce it winter and made a quick decision to take a days outing on my little 135 Yamaha Spark. It was still slightly misty when I left at 8am, but that cleared just a few kms up the hill and I was on familiar ground through the KMT villages, past the Mae Salong T junction and down the 1098 heading to Mae Chan. The route I'd chosen was the left turn off this road about half way between the T junction and Mae Chan which I found is clearly but wrongly marked. The signs show the main road as the 107 and the left turn as the 1098! The road looks quite new, good surface, steep gradients with some sharp corners but is so little used the weeds and grasses are falling in from the roadsides. It basically goes up a mountain ridge and down the other side bringing you to the main road that comes down from Mae Salong to the C Rai - Mae Sai highway. I turned right and followed that for just a few kms until I came to another marked junction, left to Doi Tung and Mae Fa Luang. Another lovely road, good surface, tight bends but almost no land slip or dirt/dust to cause trouble. A beautiful drive, clean mountain air and hardly another vehicle on the road, just a few locals on 110 Waves. Being the fool I am I completely forgot that recent events would create a virtual pilgrimage of mourning Thais to Mae Fa Luang so it was jammed packed with black and white clad visitors and I was forced to turn right down the mountain to the Mae Sai highway to avoid a long delay caused by big crowds of dignitaries for which the road was closed. My idea was to go from Doi Tung by the border road to Mae Sai which was at that moment not possible so I did it in reverse. Down to the highway, up to Mae Sai and then back south along the border road to Doi Tung. I had to show my passport twice at army controls, once it and me on the bike were photographed, but no other hitch. Very steep climbs for a little bike but good weather, decent road surface and friendly natives (Akha and young military). Stunning views, very steep valleys, and all the fun of knowing Burma is on the right verge of the road. Sadly it was back to busy highways and crazy driving for the ride home. Here is an idea. Coming to Mae Sai from C Mai take the road to Phrao, then the scenic 1346 to Chai Prakarn. After Tha Ton use this beautiful road to get to Mae Sai via Doi Tung. Empty roads, great scenery, fun riding. Just beware some of the tightest, steepest bends (up and down) that I have ever negotiated. It was a good but tiring day, 260kms, much of it under 40kph, but my own fault was the pilgrimage that i never anticipated. Steve Merchant. A late addition: two things that made me laugh out loud. 1: After several kms of no-one and nothing at 40kph max I came around a corner to find a big rectangular yellow sign saying "city limits, please slow down". The Akha village it related to was even on the road but at least was doing its best to keep the kids safe. 2: Coming down a steep windy road I came across police accident marks on the road. The vehicle coming up on the wrong side met one coming down. An almost deserted location and he contrived an accident. TIT.