Festivals In The Top North For Ok Phansa. October 2012.

[DavidFL]

There was a master plan to hit southern Laos for Boun Ok Phansa to hopefully pick on the boat racing, Loy Krathong plus maybe the Mekong Naga Fireballs, but it somehow never eventuated. The main problem being the need for a "non-stop" 2 day ride from Cnx - Pakxe / Champasak to be there in time for the full moon. Arh I don't really need that I thought, so decided to head off to Chiang Khong for a night & then meander down o Nan for a few days & back home to Chiang Mai. At least that was master plan # 2.

I was not in a rush & picked off another couple of temples in Chiang Khong for the GTR website.

Wat Phra Kaew

Wat Sop Som

Wat Thung Duk

In the late afternoon Naka's Kiosen upstream from CK is well worth a drink & photo stop (or two.)

& this guy gets to hang out there everyday.

 

[DavidFL]

Whilst chilling at Naka's Kiosken, Jurgen contacted me & reminded me to check out the Tai Lue folk museum down town.
The location was a bit vague, plus it was not always open; however after speaking to Nom at Naka's a phone call was made & Ajarn Suriya, owner of the house / folk museum, agreed to stay open if I headed off straight into town.
15 minutes later I was there.

Lua Lai Kam is an old old house with a collection of Tai Lue textiles & costume & artifacts.

if you're interested in Tai Lue culture & costumes, then check out Ajarn Suriya;s Lue Lai Kam folk museum.
Downton Ck on the way to Had Khrai.

 

[DavidFL]

The original masterplan was for A night in Ck then mosey on over to Nan for a few nights; however whilst in CK I was asked if I was going to Houei Xai for the boat racing on the next day. Well no that was not my intention because I was not aware of it. But now that I know, YES Houai Xai it is for the boat racing. AND .....the next night again is Loy Krathong in HX too, ok ........so count me in for that one too. It was a tough call you might say....

THE BOAT RACING
Started from near the Houei Xai immigration landing & finished downstream before the Tavandang Pub & Restaurant.

A few pix

It was hot out in the sun on the paved embankment

plus there was a lot of litter around.

The winning boat crew walking up the bank.

security was tight around the official tent.

I entered with who I thought were local journos trying to take some photos of the presentation, but was promptly escorted out. Ho Hum.

The winning boat crew, cheer themselves.

More to come..

 

[DavidFL]

The boat racing must be one of Houei Xai's biggest party days of the year.
Down stream from town the main street along the river is closed off for one big party

and from then on it is wall to wall food stalls / beer / music / speaker stacks.

Lao people know how to party....

FOOD

PARTY

it was food 'n beer tent after tent, big business on the day.

So many drunk happy people & not a fight or a sign of any aggro in sight!

Every food 'n beer tent had music - a live band or karaoke.

The noise & competition was tremendous, & all good fun!

Each food tent had a bank of speakers stacked up.

how anyone heard anything to order food & drink, I don't know.
But who cared. Eat drink & be merry...go with the flow.

But these musos were the smart guys.

placed the speakers in front & they sang / played from behind through a hole in the speaker wall.

pretty trick I thought.

A bit more food

and a hot little vendor.

More party time

Yes sir ...Houei Xai rocks at boat racing time.

 

[DavidFL]

The next day was a much slower day, (the boat racing parties went on into the night.)

Night two in Houei Xai was Loy Krathong & it should be noted for Loy Krathong fans, that Loy Krathong in Laos is usually a month before Thailand & normally coincides with (Boun) Ok Phansa.
Some of the Loy Krathong festivals in Thailand are massive & in my opinion have just become mass media events. Most of their original charm & tradition has gone.
So Loy Krathong in Houei Xai was for me more like Chiang Mai 25 years ago. Lots of charm & friendly community spirit with NO fireworks as in Cnx.

Some piccies

No big organised parade with crowds lining the street.
Just a busy pedestrian thoroughfare, & groups of villagers came with their floats as they pleased.

One float had some sponsorship with some Lao beauties.

but it seemed a bit out of place in such a folksy village like atmosphere.

The old lady owner of BAP Ghouse & one of Houei Xai's characters, lighting up the front of BAP Ghouse.

Kom Loy time

25,000 kip a small krathong

It was a beautiful relaxing mellow night.
If you want to check it out next time. it should be full moon either 19th September or 18th October 2013.:thumbup:

 

[DavidFL]

So back to Chiang Khong it was, still with a loose plan to move onto Nan for a few days.

BUT

then I was asked if I was staying for the Tod Kathin ceremony at Wat Mai Si Lom Yen, the next night.

"You should stay, it's a big event with movie stars /singers coming to the temple to see the famous 5-star monk."

I was sold....it sounded too good to be true again, a "ha-dao" abbot-monk with a legion of big wigs / stars fans coming from all over the country for a robe changing ceremony at his temple?........that should be worth seeing.

& the temple Wat Mai Si Lom Yen, on R1174 south of Chiang Khong, supposedly 10kms+ out in Ban Sri Lanna & it starts "late tomorrow / early evening sometime."

more coming..

 

[DavidFL]

Not sure of the exact location of Wat Mai Si Lom Yen, a recce was required.
Time to slip out for a look along R1174.

We found 2 wrong temples first, before locating Wat Si Lom Yen further out.

Wat Ban Khia has a huge reclining Buddha

plus Wat Mai Chedi with a huge sparkling green Buddha

& there was a full on village tamboon fund raising fair & party going on

& we were lucky to escape the festivities

Wat Mai Chedi has some interesting animal sculptures

& a large standing Buddha

and a line up of numerous other Buddha statues

Riding buddy for the day Neil Grimes

 

[DavidFL]

With the morning recce out of the way, it was time for the show starting late arvo.
Entering the temple grounds you could be forgiven for thinking you were in a resort

there were scores of people sitting down eating & waiting

there was mountains of food & it was all free.

There was a music garden

the mature female singer had an amazing voice - singing Thai & English - & once upon a time must have been quite famous.
From memory she is now retired & has a resort behind Wat Rong Khun in CEI on the Den Ha road. Kiang Dao Resort??? Worth checking out sometime as I'd certainly love to listen to her sing again.

In another part of the temple grounds a stage was set up

a well-known movie star

With some of the show organisers & the fabulous singer

another event organizer

Ms Kukkai

There was a group of Hmong hill tribe kids from Muang Khan school showing talents with some beautiful drawings

the Hmong kids with the ha-dao monk & Ajarn Suriya + Phanom.

The big guns at the event

Wat Mai Si Lom Yen is very popular with police & military. There were 17 provincial heads of police / army present. (there's a good story there somewhere explaining the connection?)

Preparing the official show & ceremonial cotton picking to provide the cotton to weave for the new robes.

An area is fenced off.

The show gets under way

There's a swarm of people with cameras / phones/ tablets trying to push forward & take photos - almost a frenzy to get in, watch & maybe participate / get blessed if you are lucky enough to be in the front row.

Some cotton is ceremonially picked by the abbot & then the official guests are allowed in to pick some

Cotton beauties

a little bit later the crowd pushing & shoving to get at the cotton was a bit over the top.
I packed up & left.
But during the night they spin & weave the cotton into new robes for the monk, ready for presentation the next morning.
To be continued.

 

[DavidFL]

aha, he's back & still catching up.....

The next day there's a parade to present the robes that have been woven overnight. (& Photos the all night weaving are still coming. ha ha.)

The parade....

Belles of the parade

The guys

the ceremonial new robes to be presented

the parade gets under way

Fund raising: the money trees

and it was impressive to see all the folks out there carrying on the tradition - serious believers all of them. Well done!

& that was it for Wat Si Lom Yen / Chiang Khong this time time round.
Midnight weaving beckoned in Mae Sai, & then dawn dying of the robes in Nan.....who said this was not a work in progress.

 

[DavidFL]

But what's all this about .....midnight weaving of robes for monks?
How did it come about....

Some history that I've been able to dig out.

During the Buddha’s era , once about 30 monks from Patha town who led austere lives of pilgrimage on foot, wished to visit the Buddha, at that time staying at Sawatthi. Thus, they made the journey. Upon arriving at Saket town, it was the Buddhist Lent. So, they had to stay there under the rule of discipline of the Sangha. At the end of the Buddhist Lent, they hurriedly made the trip. It rained on the way, causing them to have to travel on muddy roads until reaching Sawatthi in great difficulty. When having a meeting, the Buddha conversed with them about the Buddhist Lent and the journey. Those monks told him of their wishes to make the visit and the difficulty during the trip. The Buddha, therefore, granted permission of Kran Kathin (Kran Kathin is a ceremony of which a monk who receives robes presented can take them to make and dye as clothing) for any monks who stayed in a single monastery during the Buddhist Lent to accept robes made and dyed for presenting to monks at Kathin offering. In addition, good effect would be gained under some rule of discipline of the Sangha.

Previously, monks had to look for the old cloths abandoned, or to take robes offered to them at cremation, to make clothing. They could not accept directly from those who wished to make the offering. So, when the Buddha granted such permission, people who would like to present cloths to monks for cutting as new robes could do so. They didn’t have to pretend to drop cloths on the passing ways of monks as if they were old cloths like the time before. It has later become Thod Kathin ceremony.

The word “Kathin” means wood frame, a pattern for making robes, which may be called “hoop”. Since during the Buddha’s era, to make robes as per the pattern was difficult. There must be a readily wood frame as a tool to make lower garment, robe, or outer robe for monks.

“Thod Kathin Ceremony” is to offer robes to monks, by placing down the robes and saying the words of offering among the monks. They can be made as lower garment, robe, or outer robe. There are also several conditions as follows.

It’s a merit making with limited time, only once a year or within 1 month after the end of the Buddhist Lent, that’s from the 1 st day of the 11 th month of the waning moon to the 15 th day of the 12 th month of the waxing moon. This period is called “Thod Kathin Festival”. This year it’s from 8 th October to 5 th November.
The monastery accepting Kathin under the Tipitaka (Triple Basket) must have 4 monks at least.
The monks accepting Kathin must have been staying in that monastery during the Buddhist Lent for 3 months.
There must be approval from the assembly of monks in giving Kathin cloths to any one monk.
The Kathin must be offered out of faith on one’s own initiative, not by request, verbally or in writing, from the monastery, as it will be deemed as a breach of the rule of discipline of the Sangha and becoming void.

Because of these conditions, Kathin gives great benefit or merit to those made. (In the old times, monks had to find cloths to make their own robes). It’s therefore deemed as a help to monks, who had practiced Dhamma during the Buddhist Lent, to get new robes. In addition, it must be made under several conditions and within limited time, which is in special nature not like general merit making. So, it causes a sense of satisfaction and fulfillment. Furthermore, it’s to support Buddhism and brings about unity in making merit. It’s also a part to renovate monasteries, to maintain religious places, religious objects, and religious traditions.

AND

KATHIN PRESENTATION CEREMONY

Translated By Dr.P.M. Surapon Suyaprom & Dr. Somboon Duangsamosorn

The word ‘Kathin’ has four meanings:
1. It is a wooden framed embroidery hoop which is the pattern for making the yellow robes.
2. It refers to the yellow robes presented to a group of monks at least 4 in member.
3. It is the meritorious action of presenting the Kathin robes to the monks for whom the yellow robes are made.
4. It is the name of the monk’s activities in which they have to get an agreement from the majority to eventually give the Kathin robes to one of them only.

KATHIN AS THE WOODEN FRAME
The wooden frame as the pattern for making the yellow robes could be called an embroidery hoop during the Buddha’s time. In fact, it was very difficult to make the yellow robes in accordance with the special form designed by Lord Buddha. So, a specific wooden frame had to be prepared in order to make the yellow robes that are called Trijeevara for the Kathin Presentation Ceremony.
Actually the Trijeevara consists of three yellow robes; Antaravasaka, for wearing, Jeevara, for covering the body down from the shoulders and Sangghati, for superimposing as folded on Jeevara. In the Thai language the three yellow robes are popularly called Sabong, Jeevorn and Sangghati respectively. Hence, the Trijeevara was made with the wooden frame on which the cloth was placed, cut, sewn, dyed, dried and finished in the same day.
Definitely, such an urgent work required a good co-operation of all the participants. Practically, after the work has been finished, the wooden frame is kept to be used again in the next Kathin festival. The operation to dismantle the wooden frame is called ‘Kathin Dauh’ or ‘Dauh Kathin’

KATHIN AS YELLOW ROBES TO BE PRESENTED
Kathin at this point refers to a merit making tradition in which the yellow robes and other things have to be presented to monks within one month only namely, from the 1st day of the waning moon in the 11th month to the 15th day of waxing moon in the 12th month.
The yellow robes to be presented have to be new ones or almost new, but washed and cleaned. Old or discarded pieces of cloth or pieces of cloth left in dust or at shops can be picked up and made into Kathin robes as well.
The Kathin robes can be presented by householders, monks and novices. The Kathin robes have to be presented to a group of at least four monks (Sangha).

KATHIN AS THE NAME OF RELIGIOUS ACTIVITY, MERIT MAKING
The Kathin robes have to be presented to monks who have completed their stay for three months at one temple during the rainy season. The idea was to encourage monks to observe the rule and to let them have new robes to substitute the worn-out ones.
The merit making by means of Kathin robes presentation or ‘Thod Kathin’ in Thai is to offer the yellow robes by uttering words of presentation in Pali amidst the Sangha and is regarded as “the Kaladan” as it can be performed within the specific time limit of one month only.
The yellow robes presented to monks before or after this period are not Kathin and hence, merit-making in the form of Kathin Robes Presentation is rather difficult.

KATHIN AS THE NAME OF SANGHA’S ACTIVITIES.
It is one of the Sangha’s activities by which prayer has to be made at the Sangha’s meeting in order to reach an agreement allowing only one of them to receive the Kathin robes.
If the Kathin robes have been completely finished through the monks’ co-operation, then they can help other monks to make yellow robes and the period for this action can be extended to 4 months. Such an opportunity was allowed, because during the Lord Buddha’s time it was rather difficult to find cloth for making yellow robes.
Lord Buddha did not allow monks to store pieces of cloth for more than 10 days except the monks had finished their Kathin robes, then they were allowed to look for pieces of cloth to make yellow robes throughout the cold season, namely up to the 15th waxing moon day of the 4th month.

From the above information, it can be observed that “Kathin” involves four actions; to make Kathin robes, to reach an agreement among the monks who should be the one to receive the Kathin robes, to pray for that approval and to express their pleasure that they have finished all the steps pertaining to the Kathin Robes activity.

The words “Kran Kathin” mean spreading out and laying down the piece of cloth on the wooden frame including cutting, sewing, dying, drying and folding in the process of making Kathin robes.

The term “Chong Kathin” means those who wish to acquire merit by means of Thod Kathin express their desire either in writing or in words that they reserve the Kathin Robes presentation at the temple after Buddhist lent is over on the fixed date and time within the time limit as allowed by Lord Buddha’s discipline.

The term “Apalok Kathin” means a verbal action taken by a monk who proposes at the Sangha’s meeting whether or not the Kathin Robes making should be processed. If a positive agreement has been reached, then the monks discuss further as to who among them should be the most suitable one to receive the Kathin robes. This action is called “Apalok” meaning the verbal action to get an agreement from the Sangha’s meeting through proposal and consultation. After the Apalok action has been finished and at this state the procedure has not yet been completed. When it has been announced to acknowledgement of all the monks, then only the action in this regard is complete.

At present more pieces of cloth are available and many people can prepare, cut, sew, dye pieces of cloth to make Kathin robes. Therefore, the procedure to make the Kathin robes with the conventional wooden frame equipment has been given up. Only the name remains and the tradition is being observed today. At present the ready-made Kathin robes are plenty as the robes have been produced by machines. These yellow robes available in the market, bought and brought to offer to monks are also called “Yellow robes for Kathin Presentation” The Kathin Presentation ceremony has become a very popular tradition in Thailand as may be annually witnessed. It is also a religious activity incorporated with the intention to perpetuate the institution of Buddhism.

CHRONICLE
During the life time of Lord Buddha, according to the story recorded in the section known as “Kathinkhandhaka” of Vinaya Pitaka, about 30 monks of Patha town, who strictly observed the rules of pilgrimage and lived in the forest, wished to see Lord Buddha who was then staying in Savatthi City, Koshala State. Thus, they set out toward Savatthi City. By the time they had got to Saket city on their way about 6 yojanas (59.64 miles) to Savatthi, it was the time for the Buddhist Lent and hence, they had to haul in order to observe the Buddhist Lent for three months during the rainy seasons according to the discipline. During the Lent again they were very enthusiastic to see Lord Buddha. After the end of the Lent, they hurriedly travelled to Savatthi, but the rainy season had not yet ceased and thus the path was full of mud as it was wet almost everywhere. The monks had to wade through waters and walk on the marshy path till they arrived in Savatthi City. They were welcomed by Lord Buddha and informed Him of their strong intention to see the Lord and their inconvenience on the journey due to the rains. With these difficulties as relevant motives, the Blessed One laid down the regulations by which the monks who had observed Lent and participated in the Kathin ceremony were allowed to enjoy some merits that shall be mentioned in details hereafter.

 

[Rod Page]

Great thread; wonderful event....its been well worth the wait!

 

[DavidFL]

Davidfl;286691 wrote:

& that was it for Wat Si Lom Yen / Chiang Khong this time time round.
Midnight weaving beckoned in Mae Sai, & then dawn dying of the robes in Nan.....who said this was not a work in progress.

Aha a long work in progress......still got sore ribs & shoulder from the spill 18 days ago, no bike yet & time to wrap it up at last.
I packed up in Chiang Khong after the parade at Wat Mai Sri Lom Yen & moved onto Mae Sai for the night to witness the "midnight weaving frenzy" at Wat Doi Wao, the next step in the ok Phansa Thod Kathin ceremony.

It was a surreal colourful scene at the Wat

money is the name of the game & i was amazed at the huge donations being given - hundreds of thousands of baht - & called out
There are some serious believers &/or merit seekers out there.
Donors come from all over the country, far & wide. Their names, home towns & huge amounts donated, read out to start off the night's ceremony.

more coming....I'm back on track.

 

[DavidFL]

A "fleet" of elderly spinners ready to "rock 'n roll" all night.

on the move, all systems go

Some info

Spinners and weavers both work with fiber to turn it into usable products, but spinners focus on thread and yarn production, and weavers work with finished threads and yarns to make cloth. Some crafters do both and might engage in related activities such as dyeing, knitting, quilting and so forth, depending on the kinds of crafts in which they are most interested. Handspun, as yarns and threads that are spun by hand are known, is increasingly rare in many markets but can be purchased in some regions along with hand-woven products.

 

[DavidFL]

Not quite understanding how all this traditional weaving of the robes worked I tried to dig out a bit more info, so I / you knew what I was looking at

After the cotton has been collected there's four steps in making the new robes
1. Ginning cotton.
2. Carding the cotton.
3. Spinning the cotton.
4. Weaving the cotton to make the robes

and there's a fifth - dying the robes to be presented. (The fifth part dyeing the robes I caught up to in Nan a bit later on.)

GINNING

Cotton fibres are produced in the seed pods ("bolls") of the cotton plant; as a result, the fibres ("lint") in the bolls are interspersed with the seeds. The seeds must be removed from the lint to make the fibres usable. Historically, this task was performed by hand: production of cotton required hundreds of man-hours to separate the seeds from a useful amount of lint. Many simple seed-removing devices have been invented over the years, but until the invention of the cotton gin most required significant operator attention and worked on a small scale. Source: Wikipedia.

CARDING
The cleaned cotton fibers, or laps, are inserted into a carding machine, which separates the cotton fibers. These fibers are arranged parallel to each other so that the cotton is ready for the spinning process.

Not sure what this process it

WEAVING

a very happy weaver

 

[DavidFL]

Next stop Nan, & the festival was held outside the Nan Museum.
The festival events in Chiang Khong & Mae Sai were organised by a Tai Lue group from Chiang Khong. The same group also organised one in Phayao at Wat Analayo, that I was unable to take in.
In Nan the event was organised by people from Nan.
There was obviously a bigger budget available for the Chiang Khong organisers with more participants & lavishness.

In Nan the masterplan then was to actually catch the last bit of action.....dyeing the robes.

For the start of the day's event an important Buddha image is taken down to the Nan river to be bathed & then returned.
I got the wrong info about the starting time & just managed to catch the Buddha image being paraded back to the museum grounds.

The Buddha image is placed in a temporary sala overlooking the grounds.
In this day & age it never ceases to amaze me how strong these traditions & rituals still are in the community. 3 Cheers for Nan & the people there.

The fair ground was set up for the nights show

that's a big Khantoke ground.

Thamboon donations

money

Ceremonial cotton trees for picking

The show gets under way with a traditional Shan goat dance

the elderly fans go wild

& compete to feed - give money - to the performing goat's mouth.
All firm believers in what they are doing.

Maidens performing a dance

time for some cotton picking

then the crowd is let loose to snatch a few cottton buds

and yet another batch of all night spining gets underway

a royal dignitary gets an escorted tour of the show

more spinners in action

and weavers

The spinners & weavers go all night

Late at night, well after midnight..

....still going. Now note on the right, a glimpse of a monk weaving!! Tut Tut, all a bit naughty I thought & tried to get a full photo, but was firmly told NO photos please.

My Nan research assistant

learning something knew.

who, despite being a local, knew less about the event than I did. Ho Hum. What's wrong with today's youth..
We fled the scene at 2AM & left the weavers to it.

I returned at first light (sans assistant)

some were still going!

But eventually a piece of cloth was ready for dyeing.

Preparing the dye

chillies & _________?

Preparing the robes for a dunking

The dunking

all done by the revered monk.

I wasn't alone, watching the ritual

but I was the only farang.

Eventually the robe is done

and we're all hung out to dry

:wave: A bit long winded for many of you I suspect, :think: but there is so much going on with this festival I wanted to make an effort to capture & try to understand each individual part of the process.
It is certainly a beautiful & fascinating event.

Now what I'm missing is the actual robe presentation........roll on October-November 2013.

 

[DavidFL]

Just a bump & reminder that October Full Moon & Ok Phansa is next week: Wednesday the 8th OCtober 2014.
So that means there should be a few of these festivals on in & around the North.
Check 'em out if you can.