On Feb 18th, 2007, I did this route, but the _opposite_ way...from Pakxan to Phonsavan.
Photos indicated in text are located here:
http://g-perrin.home.netcom.com/Thathom/
I'd initially entered Laos at Dongkalaw (Dong Corlor), above Strung Treng in northern Cambodia. I went on the Pakxan>Phonsavan route as I wanted to avoid Vientiane as well as Vang Vieng at all costs, as I'm severely allergic to boring predictable backpackers and most tourists.
I'd brought with me a copy of "jimoi's" excellent and lengthy January post of his trip ("Lao Road Report...2007") to use as a route suggestion list for some of my travels in Laos. I was also using the latest GT map of Laos.
I should add that I'm a rookie biker and old fart...having just bought my first bike, an older Thai licensed Suzuki Djebel just a few months before....so take my comments with that in mind. ;-)
I found the dirt sections from Pakxan to Phonsavan not difficult, except for one area between Muanghuang and Thathom. I also believe there may be a needed addition to "Jimoi's" post on this route as well as a route addition to the GT map.
As I was leaving Muanghuang, I stopped at a drink stand on the left side of the road [pix]. At that point there is a fork in the road...one continues straight and another goes to the right. Also at that intersection, there is a gas station (the country variety) on the right [pix], as well as a building on the right which is the towns post-office [pix]. I was so surprised to find a PO in Muanghuang, that I posted a letter back to the States. Unless there are Lao gals, like Thai hookers, who mail money pleas to naive farangs, my letter may be the only International mail that has ever originated from there. l wonder if it will ever get delivered!!
I asked the gal at the drink stand which road was the way to Thathom. She motioned 'go straight', I got the same reply from the post master. I then asked which way to Thasi and was directed to take the road to the right. I continued straight...
My hastly written notes indicate the following... in a narrow hilly section I encountered some deep mud (about 50-meters long), but recent trucks had somewhat compacted two lanes with their tires, so traversing was not difficult. Later, I encountered 2 streams
(maybe 3...BUT not '6' streams as someone else has posted), none of which were much more than a foot deep and easily passable. Later, approx 27-km from Muanghuang there is a downhill section of hardpack covered with maybe 3-4" of soft powder. Here is the 'rookie' rider stuff. This proved my downfall (literally!) as I crashed with only a
bruised ego. My ego was further bruised as I moved the bike so the wheels were downhill and perpendicular to the slope before lifting the bike. I tried raising the bike and it only slid further downhill on the hardpack....twice! Then, with a big final heave to right the bike...the wheels got some traction on the hardpack ...and the bike went all the way over on it's other side. I was pissed, frustrated and exhausted from the heat and effort. Thinking I might be spending the night on this slope, I recalled having earlier passing two Laos on their tractor. I was thankful when they arrived about 30-minutes
later and helped me to raise the bike!! The rest of the journey to Thathom was uneventful.
My odometer indicated that the distance from Muanghuang to Thathom was about 42.7-km. I don't recall having passed through Thasi...as I enountered only very small villages, but could be mistaken! The distance for the road on the GT map appears to be about 50-km in length. Yet, what is further confusing, is I that only saw one road
leading from the South into the middle of Thathom. Could it be there are two roads and the second one intersects with the 'straight' road before reaching Thathom?? Maybe someone will soon verify or clarify this.
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