Kawasaki KLX 250 Clutch Disassembly, Inspection and Replacement

Discussion in 'Technical' started by TonyBKK, Jan 8, 2014.

  1. My clutch has started slipping, time for a rebuild! Thought I'd write it up with pictures; hopefully others might find this useful! :thumbup:

    For the Pudgy Picture Thief: All images © Marc Nisam. All Rights Reserved.

    First thing you want to do is drain your engine oil and remove the brake pedal and RH footpeg:

    Next, loosen the clutch cable and remove the clutch cover bolts (notice the two top bolts are badly corroded- they will be replaced):

    Remove the clutch cover. There are two small dowel pins, roughly at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock that insure proper alignment of the cover- make sure they don't fall out and get lost!

    Clutch cover removed- what it looks like on the inside. Note- do not remove the clutch release shaft from the clutch cover. If it is removed you'll need to install a new oil seal.

    Next you will need to drain the coolant / anti-freeze. First remove the drain bolt at the bottom of the water pump, then remove the radiator cap and the coolant will drain out of the bike.

    You will also need to remove the rear brake light switch:

    Remove the water pump cover:

    With the water pump cover removed you will see the water pump impeller. Remove the bolt holding the impeller to the shaft, then remove the impeller and the spacer behind the impeller, paying close attention to the orientation of the spacer:

    Remove the oil pipe banjo bolt:

    Carefully pull off the right side engine cover. Make sure the two dowel pins are in position (3 o'clock and 9 o'clock) and be careful they don't fall out and get lost.

    The O-ring to the upper right of the large oil pump gear will probably fall out when you remove the engine cover. It should be re-installed with chamfered side facing out, as in the picture:

    Inside of the right hand engine cover:

    Next remove the clutch pusher, being careful not to loose the small washer:

    Remove the clutch holder:

    Remove the clutch hub nut. (Kawasaki recommends the use of a special "Gear Holder" tool but I had no trouble removing this nut without it.

    Remove the clutch plate assembly and clutch housing:

    Clutch Plate Assembly and Clutch Housing removed:

    Disassemble the clutch plate assembly. First remove the spring bolts:

    With the bolts removed, remove the Spring Plate:

    Remove the Clutch Springs:

    Remove the Clutch Wheel:

    Remove the clutch plate assembly from the Clutch Housing (note the washer in the picture):

    In our next segment we will inspect the clutch plates, friction plates and clutch springs!

    Let the Good Times ROLL! KawasakiSmiley2
  2. Part 2: Kawasaki KLX 250S clutch inspection and reassembly!

    Note to the Pudgy Picture Thief: All images © Marc Nisam. All Rights Reserved.

    Here are some (more on that in a bit) of the parts you will need to put your clutch back together, starting with the upper left and going clockwise we have:
    Gasket, Clutch 11060-1325
    Gasket, Clutch Cover 11061-0923
    Plate-Friction (x7) 13088-0042
    Plate-Clutch 13089-1085
    O-Ring 670B1506
    Washer (x2) 11009-1344
    Gasket, Pump Cover 11060-1328

    Measure your clutch springs. Standard length is 3.54cm. Service limit is 3.39cm. As you can see, my springs are just below the minimum. And of course, I didn't order new ones and as luck would have it they are out of stock until next week... :oops:
    Add these to your parts list: SPRING (x6) 92145-0637

    You will also want to measure the thickness of your clutch plate assembly:
    Standard thickness is 3.03-3.09cm so my assembly is just a bit below the minimum.

    Measure your friction plates (measure at several points on every plate as they do not always wear evenly):
    Standard thickness is 2.92-3.08mm, so these are still within the service limit, but I'll replace them all the same as they are very cheap.

    These friction plates are still within spec. Free to anyone who wants them :mrgreen:

    Thickness of new friction plates:

    Visually inspect the 6 steel clutch plates for signs of overheating (discoloration), warp and wear:
    There are 6 steel plates, 1 is smooth and 5 are not. The smooth plate goes onto the clutch hub FIRST.

    Remove and inspect the judder spring seat and judder spring. Reinstall as shown, making sure you have the judder spring in the correct orientation:

    Reassembly- apply oil to all dry plates to avoid clutch plate seizure.

    Install 1 friction plate onto the clutch hub, followed by the SMOOTH steel clutch plate:

    Then alternate friction plates with steel plates:

    7 friction plates and 6 steel plates installed:

    Install the clutch wheel:

    Next step is to install the springs, but since mine are out of spec this is as far as we go until I get new springs next week.

    To be continued!! :mrgreen:
  3. Wow great report and good photos. Brings back memories when as 16 year kid I did replaced the clutch of my Yamaha FS1, although all much smaller. But I did not have a clue what I was doing and no manual. All worked out fine. Waiting for the next episode.
  4. Finally got the clutch springs I was waiting for! Let's finish this up and RIDE!!

    (as always- for the Pudgy Picture Thief: All images © Marc Nisam. All Rights Reserved)


    New springs are about half a millimeter short... The correct length is supposed to be 35.4mm and these are about 35mm long... Service limit is 33.9mm so these will work. I've been told that the OEM Kawasaki springs are rather weak and will source some better quality springs, probably Barnett, for the next rebuild. The clutch spring bolts should be torqued to 69 in/lbs.

    Verify correct thickness of clutch plate assembly (standard thickness is 3.03-3.09cm):

    Install and grease washer and sleeve:

    Install clutch:

    Torque the clutch hub nut to 58 ft/lbs:

    As I don't have the gear holder tool to keep the clutch from spinning I put the bike in gear and lashed the rear wheel to the swing arm which allows me to achieve the correct torque on the clutch hub nut-

    Oil and install the clutch pusher, washer and holder:
    Beer break!beerchug

    Get ready to install engine cover. Make sure old gasket is completely removed and all mating surfaces clean and dry-

    Make sure this o-ring is orientated correctly, flat side towards the engine, rounded side facing out:

    Install dowel pins and new gasket:

    Install right side engine cover, use non-permanent thread lock on all bolts and torque to 87 in/lbs:

    Note the location of the bolt with the spacer and bracket for the brake pedal spring:

    Install the clutch cover. Insert the dowels and new gasket like this:

    Turn the clutch release lever so that the cut-out will face the clutch pusher, like this:

    Install the clutch cover, torque all bolts to 87 in/lbs:
    *Note- you may have noticed earlier that some bolts were corroded. I replaced the corroded bolts and coated the new bolts in grease, which hopefully will prevent or at least slow down similar corrosion in the future.

    Reinstall the rear brake pedal. The pedal fits through the frame and is sealed by two o-rings. They don't make a very good seal, so I'd recommend cleaning the brake pedal shaft, replacing the o-rings, and greasing the shaft before installation-

    I also cleaned and greased the brake pedal mounting point on the frame:

    Rear brake pedal installed:

    Install the oil pipe banjo bolt, using new crush washers, torque to 15 ft/lbs:

    Clean and reassemble the water pump; the small o-ring should be replaced:

    Install the impeller on the water pump shaft and tighten the impeller nut to 69 in/lbs:

    Insert the dowel pins and new pump cover gasket:

    Install the water pump cover, torque the bolts to 87 in/lbs:

    Reconnect the radiator hoses and reinstall the coolant drain plug, torque to 18 ft/lbs:

    New oil filter:

    Refill oil and coolant, start the bike and check for leaks; let it run until the fan kicks on and top up the coolant if necessary. Job done!

    Let the Good Times ROLL!!!
  5. Tony, is it necessary to remove the whole right crankcase cover? On my Honda XR250 the right cover was a single unit, when I saw the KLX250 with it's separate clutch cover and it's own gasket, I thought it's precisely for ease of clutch maintenance. Why is it necessary to remove the whole right cover? I didn't notice anything in your (very nice) about why you needed to access that area.
  6. Hi Gene!

    You are correct, if you don't use the gear holder "special tool" it is not necessary to remove the entire engine cover to service the clutch on the KLX250.

    If you want/need to use the "gear holder" special tool then you must remove the entire engine cover. In my case I was able to remove the clutch hub nut with a rattle gun without using the "special tool".

    And on reassembly I simply put the bike in gear and blocked the rear wheel so that I could achieve proper torque on the clutch hub nut.

    So, in conclusion, you really only need to remove the engine cover if you want to use the gear holder "special tool". :thumbup:
  7. Got it. I used the 6th gear and locked rear wheel trick before.

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