My selection of Luang Prabang’s food outlets is not a gastronomic highlights listing, but just a
reference to a couple of hangouts that, for diverse reasons, I like to patronize when I stopover in the Royal City.
From my usual dwelling, the ‘Oudomsouk Guesthouse’, ‘
’Joma Backery’ is conveniently located, just aroud the next corner. It offeres a good choice of bagels and other breadwares for breakfast, and was one of the first connected spot in town, a service wich, even in Laos, is now ubiquitous. During the day, it is also a convenient ‘pause café’ place , but can be crowed during the high season.
Another GT-Rider’s breakfast favourite, is the
'Scandinavian Backery' at a slightly longer walk down Sisavangvong road (see David’s recommendation). Scandinavian, an all time GT-Rider favourite, is still a very popular place and, despite the incressed stroll, I like to visit it in the morning.
Further down, on Sakkarine road,
“Café Ban Vat Sene” is also a recommendable address. The owner being French, this restaurant is favored by a large francophone community. In addition to bread and sandwiches, the menu offers a choice of local and ethnic plates from tribes like the Hmong, Khmu and Lue; this makes it an interesting place also for lunch and dinner. Customers can browse through the latest news, not only online, but also by reading the provided English language Thai newspapers: Bangkok Post and The Nation.
If Joma is crowded, or just for a change, I go to another ‘early bird’ café on Inthasom road, near to the Mekong. It is called
“Saffron Espresso Café”, probably a branch of the original place, further up along the river’s bank. “Saffron” is also the brand name of the original coffee from Luang Prabang.
http://www.saffroncoffee.com/visiting-luang-prabang
As this place opens at six o’clock in the morning, it is a convenient observation point for the monk’s daily alms round.
During lunch times, I like to sit at “
L’Etranger’s” terrace, at the city’s others end, a friendly promontory to watch the amblers flow. Light meals, coffee …and lassi drinks, are available, as well as a collection of books to be rented or acquired.
L’Etranger has the same owner as “
Hive Bar” located just next door. In addition to enjoying food, I love to photograph their on stage ‘Ethnik Fashion Show’ featuring more than one hundred costumes from twenty different groups. They are elegantly presented on the catwalk by young student from different ethnies.
http://www.hivebarlaos.com/
In the evening, when I am not in a mood to walk far and want to enjoy the market’s atmosphere, I have a pizza, a couple of red wines and some pastry at “
Indigo’s” terrace, an old hotel’s restaurant. There is nothing really to write about, but it is a convenient place to observe the flow of passersby, and to connect to the net, while swallowing some food.
http://www.indigohouse.la/about.html
Another evening promontory, along Sisavangvong road, is the “
Backery Guesthouse”. It offers a diversified menu but without ‘haute cuisine’ pretension. When people grump about prices (at that restaurant or somewhere else), I wonder why, to begin with, they chose that particular place; Generally, I see prices clearly displayed everywhere in Luang Prabang. When I dine in the “Backery”, I always find something that I consider of good value. Like at ‘Indigo’, at the other night market’s end, my main motivation to pause there is not only food: I like to watch the people’s flow and to connect to the virtual world.
http://www.luangprabang-bakery-guesthouse.com/
Another GT-Rider’s recommendation, is the former'
Phakdee' restaurant. It has been resettled, further up, along the Mekong rim. A billboard wears its former name, half covered with black tape; it is now just called “
Backery Cafe”, as it is part of the adjacent
Alounsavath guesthouse.
It is still a nice Mekong balcony restaurant with sandwiches, café and Lao food including the famous spring rolls (see former David’s recommendations).