Hi all, Hi rectravel!
I'm home now, so I have my map at hand (it's "thailand" from Reise Know-How Verlag in Germany, a very detailed map of Thailand 1: 1,200,000 on a plastic material, almost indestructible).
I started my ride in Pattaya on rented bikes, we went all the way down the coast to Hat Lek and wanted to find out about road conditions, both in Thailand and Cambodia, about border formalities, about my riding skills (bear in mind that it was the first time ever on a bike for me).
Since the bikes were rentals and we did not have proper papers to cross, we weren't allowed to leave Thailand. We had fake German plates and papers, as to try to get across and explore a bit before actually buying bikes and to avoid problems with the police/soldiers inside Thailand. We figured they wouldn't know how to deal with German papers if they ever stopped us.
The military had a few roadblocks on the way but always waved us through with a friendly smile.
Since we werent't able to cross at Hat Lek we wanted to find out if there are any other routes into Cambodia.
We decided to try all roads leading away from the coast, toward the border with Cambodia, between Hat Lek and Pong Nam Ron, a small town north of Chantaburi.
Since there is a mountain range between the two countries, most roads were either dead ends or turned away after a couple of kms.
However, there is one new road across those mountains under construction, somewhere between Mamuang En (south of Trat) and Khlong Yai (north of Hat Lek0. I can't find the spot on my map right now, but since this strech is only about 50km, it's not hard to find. It's south of a gas station, leads into the countryside for a few hundred meters, there's a camp for the road construction workers there and you'll see all the dirt on the road from the heavy trucks coming from that dirt road.
The road is not paved yet and leads up into the mountains really steep, so you can only really manage it on a cross bike. They have build a handful of new concrete bridges, yet without and rails.
After a few kilometers we ran across some more construction equipment and since one of our bikes with the smaller gas tank was running low we almost decided on turning back, but then our craving for adventure kicked in.
We followed the road a bit longer and saw more and more signs of the Thai military (black and yellow striped poles, roadblocks etc.). But no people.
Then we reached a plateau with a few wooden buildings, a few young men in sports dresses playing football and more importantly a few concrete roadblocks (wide enough spaced to alowed bikes through) and a lot of barbed wire around them.
We stopped, not sure what would happen if we would just speed on. Who knows if there were any actual armed guards, how far this road would really lead (what would happen if we needed to turn back?) and if there were any mines (a danger that I definitely did not want to underestimate in Cambodia)?
One of the young soldiers came running towards us and we tried to ask if this was the border with Cambodia, if the road was open, if we were allowed to pass (flashing our German papers and so on). Well, the road seemed to be completed to Cambodia, but we did not find out about the Cambodian parts.
They wouldn't let us pass, they answered our question if the road would be openend to foreigners some time in the future with a definite no, but also told us that locals wouldn't be allowed to cross. This surprised us, but they said it's only for the military. From how good the bridges were constructed, I suspect this road wil be used for logging in Cambodia, now that the Thais have killed all the good trees in ther own country.
We decided the best course of action would be to tel them that our one bike was out of gas, so we couldn't turn back just yet. They were very helpful and also wanted to take a closer look at our bikes and our protective gear, so we stayed for a short time. I then decided it could work if we tried to give them our German vodka, have a nice round of drinks and then take of, once we're friends. They offered that one of them would drive to the gas station and get some gas, but we stopped them, had some drinks, had some more, had even more (we now switched to local alc). We found out that these young men (a group of about 30) were Thai soldier border guards who livded in small wooden houses without electricity or running water out in the jungle. They had a TV and a karaoke, powered by a generator that would run from 10-10 every day. Later on they got out some small battery powered lights, got us something to eat and talked a lot to us.
It became really late, so they asked us to stay and their commander offered us his hut. We gladly accepted, since the ride back would have been hell.
It had become clear we wouldn't be allowed to cross and tey had guards out at night, we heard them shoot animals at night.
The next day we left after breakfast and continued up to Bo Rai, the next border crossing we found. It's only open on certain days and only for locals. We spend 3 hours talking to various government officials to get this information.
The next try was at Khlong Yai close to Pong Nam Ron (not to be confused by the village of the same name down colse to Hat Lek). This is the crossing to Pailin on the Cambodian side.
The roads leading there are being overhauled, right now they are wide smooth dirt roads with only limited traffic and even less people living close by. Perfect for speeding.
That border crossing is open for foreigners, as far as we could find out. They had already stamped our passports when they asked us for the import papers for the bikes (because of the German plates/papers). Of course, we did not have any and told them we had them in BKK. The customs guy started calling the office in Bangkok, which was the signe for us to tell him really quick hewouldn't have to do that, we would drive back and get them
Well, that was kinda close!
We decided it was time to give up, now that we knew it would be possible to cross and I had gotten some experience riding a motorcycle.
We met some Thai friends on the way to Chantaburi who had just gotten back from a weekend trip to Angkor. They were riding in a group of about 20-25, with two cars with spares and stuff. We stopped at a restaurant, had a great evening and then continued to Chantaburi where we stayed at one of the friends house.
We looked around for bikes to buy and bought us a Suzuki Djebel and a Yamaha Raid, with papers, no plates.
We brought back our rented bikes to Pattaya, took the bus back to Chantaburi, picked up our bikes, decided to stay for a few more nights, because the weather was really shitty and we had a great time there.
We then went over the border at Hat Lek without any major problems, the Thai guards were not entirely happy with our papers, since the bikes were still registered on other people and we only had photocopies of their IDs and letters saying we bought the bikes.
The Cambodians just wanted the money for the visa (25$ each), some money for a "health inspection" and asked us for any papers from the Thai customs, but since we did not receive any, they let us go after a little bit of talking. Always good if you have some photos to show, talk a bit about football and smile alot.
We decided on the south route, because the road from Koh Kong to Sre Ambel (150km) is one of the worst in Cambodia. It's mud, loose rock, washouts, rivercrossings and steep hills.
The road is still under construction and Cambodians use it with normal 2WD cars and minibusses, but we saw 4WD pickup trucks stuck in the mud and there are slopes where they needed help from the military or tracks based vehicles to continue on. In some parts mud and water were almost 1 meter deep.
It's fun to drive, if you're not scared easily and if you don't minde bumpy rides.
Also, you'll have to pay a few dollars at each ferry (3-5 ferries), bring enough gas and water and if you refill you will only get gas from coke bottles.
There is also no official hotel/guesthouse on the way, so do it on one day or you'll have to camp somewhere. The ferries don't run all night, and I would advise you not to ride in the dark, as we crashed our bikes twice when washouts were bigger than expected.
There is a tiny village close to Sre Ambel, I think it's before you get to Dang Peaeng, with another ferry. If you want a nice chat, ask around for a English teacher, a Cambodian who lived in Australia before moving home. His family runs (the only?) restaurant there, were all the people meet for the evening news/series on tv at about 7-8pm.
I was on this trip during July '05, so the information is farly new.
Feel free to contact me if you need any further infos about the South and Southwest of Cambodia!
Arne