We had been planning this for quite some time after a friend had taken a weekend package, but having lived in Thailand for 10 years and having 2 wheels we thought there was little need for a pre-arranged tour, infact the times and dates suggested didnt really fit with the time available.
I have used the national park accommodation on Ko Rok and Tarutao in the past, its perfectly acceptable and at a reasonable price, so we browsed the
National Park Website and came up with a floating bungalow at Cheow Larn . The system is a bit hit'n'miss but we selected a random bungalow on Krai Son 6 resort.
Next, knowing we wouldnt make the Dam by a decent time, we wanted to book a nights stay on the mainland, we really struggled to find a room, as all were telling us they were fully booked ( maybe, but i think not )
After scratching in the depths of google we found
Pantoorat Mountain Lodge, called and got a result at 300B, we thought that was all sorted until we got a call the next day, apparently they wouldn't take our booking because they needed us to take a tour. A little bit of BS and they agreed to give us the room for the night. Really, this report isnt about the 'being tight', its about not being tied to something. How many elephant rides and waterfalls can one take ?
The New Year holiday arrived, we packed and set off from Hat Yai, following the 4>41>401
Thanks to the initial report here i realised the Dam was a fair trek from the lodgings, but i didnt pay too much attention and we called ahead to get directions to Pantoorat, which is 500m down the lane towards the National park HQ. We arrived to find that, as we still didnt want a tour, the price for the POS bungalow was now 500B. I was quite willing to get the owner to supply dinner / breakfast and hook me up with a boat, but seemed unhelpful, so i didnt feel like sharing any more cash. He did however hook me up with a covered garage out of prying eyes close to the bungalow.
We stayed the night, had a nice dinner at a resort restaurant in the village of Khao Sok, where you will find all the resorts listed on google, Khao Sok Tree tops, Khao Sok Tree house, etc. which all look really nice, but at a price. We found its just that they are too far from the jump off to the lake bungalows, so not the best place to stop.
After dinner we spoke with the receptionist, who again scared us, there were long queues at the pier, if we wanted to take a tour they would guarantee a boat for us - yeah, OK, thanks but no thanks.
Woke up in the morning, had an overpriced coffee and watched the holiday makers handing over 1000's of THB, and after paid our fees at the national park HQ ( 40B for Thai & Work permit, 200B for foreigners ) and walked into the park.
Walked upto the first waterfall in a couple of hours, just a stream blocked by some boulders, had a bit of exercise for a couple of hours then headed back to the bike.
Inside the national park HQ area you can pitch your own tent for 30B, I had thought about this option but there wasnt any definitive info. Usually, the national park has tents for hire. The toilet and shower facilities were good, didnt check the restaurant, but from experience, its OK, and always reasonable. If your on a budget, the way to go.
We trekked back on the 401, and followed the signs. All the way from the main road to the dam you could find lots of Thai style resorts that you wont find on google at 350B-500B, all with lots of rooms free, no booking needed. Naturally when my white face emerged, the price increased another 100B, due to err .. the new year holiday.
We got to the jetty, parked the bike, they were great, right under the security hut for 20B. People everywhere, boat sales people but no real pressure, we were directed towards the "check-in" desk, prices were displayed on a board. THE BOMB! - We had picked the resort farthest away from the jetty, price for a private hire was 3000B for the trip over an hour.
Due to the amount of bodies ( and probably my Thai wife ) we were pulled to the side by the staff and introduced to a party of 5 Russians, who were staying 20 mins away. The skipper offered a price of 2000B for their party, 2000B for us, he would spend the night at our bungalows and ferry us back arriving at 10.00 AM. The Russians were just as pleased as us, as they had been there an hour being quoted upto 50000B.
We all agreed swiftly and were rushed away to a boat. So much for the queues!
As we followed the skipper, we found ice boxes & crates of beer being sold, no doubt at a premium but less than the bungalow rates. We had already paid our park fee's in the morning which are valid for 24 hours, so we embarked on our way.
After 45 mins we arrived at Smiley Bungalows, dropped our shipmates off .. We werent impressed, the bungalows were quite rundown, the staff not really 'smiley' at all. We dropped off, the skipper chilled out and took us on a bit of a tour, another 20 mins and we arrived at our resort.
We docked to be greeted by the boss of the government resort, smiling staff, and several families having great fun swimming and canoeing. Handed over our internet print-out complete with bank payment slip. The maid was aware of the booking and remembered my name.
We were shown our bungalow, a basic bamboo hut with mattress, no fan but it was cold enough not to require one. We were given the rundown by a smiling cook, we could book an evening meal, 200B and breakfast 100B but needed to specify a time, she gave me a choice of Gaeng Som or Green Curry and told us to take a canoe, for as long as we needed, for free. There were no shortage of canoes or lifejackets.
The only drawback we didnt foresee was that we had booked a bungalow next to the bridge to the toilets, it may be better to book bungalows 1-3 or 17-20 to ensure a little less foot traffic.
Dinner was great, a huge fried Gourami, Green Catfish Curry (no, the fish wasnt green ), Fried Veg, clear Fish Soup, slice of pineapple and watermelon, help yourself to water or pay for a coke ( I dont think beer was available )
After dinner, we fell straight to sleep despite the noise of people enjoying themselves and using the toilet bridge. The electricity gets switched off a 1.00 AM, so best to take a good torch.
In the morning, the wife ate Rice soup ( lake fish again ). Out of 30 Thais staying there was another westerner, we were offered fried eggs on sweet Thai bread, and as much coffee as required.
We were swiftly ushered back onto the boat ( time is money for these guys ), we picked up the Russian party and we departed back to the jetty. We did however notice, only one canoe at their resort, when we asked how much, they informed us 5000B for 5 people sharing a bungalow, probably in two single beds.
We arrived back to shore, the bike was still there, the car park guys were still smiling, people asking where we had come from and how long it took.
Total cost: 3260B - 240B park fee, 400B Bungalow, 20B parking, 2000B boat, 600B Dinner/Breakfast for two.
I think we got a great deal, please, dont keep on paying the independent bungalow operators, the place is a national park, they shouldnt even be there, its just another example of unchecked tourism and corruption in Thailand, however I got to say,
500 rai bunglows looks amazing.
If you do use the national park system, we found in the past, a bottle of regency to the boss or to the staff will suddenly open doors to a special tour or a free transport from a bored ranger while everyone else is walking up that mountain. You know the food is going to be resourced locally, so pickup a chicken or some seafood from the market on the way, and let them prepare it, no extra cost, they will feed you and the remainder ( including the feet ) they eat themselves, its a win-win honestly.
Video & Pictures to follow.
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