The Return Of The Daewoo - Daewoo And Son.

DavidFL

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Jan 16, 2003
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Chiang Khong
www.thegtrider.com
Let's settle for Miguel's on Chaiyaphoom road then.

Google Maps

plenty of parking there.

GPS-Map003.jpg
 

daewoo

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Dec 6, 2005
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Thanks for the catch up with those that I did, and the rides with those that tour guided me.

Back to Australia, and reality again, going though a little bit of 'holiday hangover'. Got to say, as the years creep up, these no-rest trips are getting harder and take more time to get over.

We did two days (3 nights) in Bangkok, trying to hit as many sightseeing sites as we could handle, as well as a 1/2 day cycle tour of Bang Krachao that ended up being 3/4 of a day. Then an early flight to Chiang Mai.

Picked up a CB650F from C&P. The bike performed faultlessly for the whole trip. Looking at the V-Stroms and Versys, I think this bike was pretty much perfect for the riding we did. I think the bigger bikes would have been physically too big for me, with a pillion, on the slow, tight, steep roads. One point was that, the pillion spot on the single seat was too far back for Angus to get close enough to grip me with his legs properly, which made him quite unstable on the back of the bike. Don't know if this would be any better on the other bikes.

We did two loops, the MHS Loop over two days, and a loop out to Nan, Golden Triangle, and Mae Sai, over 4 days.

johngooding wasn't able to join me this time, for the first time in many trips as tour guide. he did however introduce me to two other Aussies who would do parts of the rides with me.

For the MHS Loop, we went Clockwise to Doi Inthanon first, which I prefer to doing it in the afternoon when all the tour vans are there. The road from Doi Inthanon via Mae Chaem to Khun Yuam is crap now. I would go via Ho(d)t and Mae Sariang which is a really nice road along the river, rather than this road in it's current condition.

No real highlights to report, MHS was nice and chilled as usual. Had a few beers in Crossroads with a dutch guy who rented a CB250R thinking a 650 would be too big, and was regretting the cramped riding position. Went to the GT-Rider Chedi at the temple, and left a donation, and spent some quiet time with TJ Hamilton, who was a good buddy for a few of the rides I did. Still not much of a fan of Pai (or the Pai that I have seen, but I am a few years past the target demographic I guess). Got back to Chiang Mai in time for dinner and some idle time on Loi Kroh.

Next day was a rest day, so we headed out to X-Center. Unfortunately Bungy was fanging around the countryside on someone else's Ducati, but Kh Long looked after us well. Had a great time on the Skid Carts (I was a State Champion Rally Driver, so loved getting my sideways action and Scandinavian Flick happening again). Also did a tour on the ATVs. Then headed up to Mon Cham so Gus could have a go on the billy carts. Wish we had more time as the roller coaster looked like a blast. Late getting back to town and to Miguel's for dinner. After dinner some idle time on Loi Kroh.

Next morning headed out to Nan, with the other two Aussies (Peter and Allan). pretty easy run, although I was much slower on the 101 over the mountains than what Allan would normally go, but he said he wasn't phased. Peter and Allan pealed off about 100km short of Nan to head straight up to Chiang Khong, and Angus and I were on our own for the rest of the trip. In Nan we stayed at the Sukasseam Hotel Google Maps in a room with a bunk bed for 450THB. I think their google maps photo has a GT-Rider's bike in it.

The idea of this trip was to challenge the sheltered, middle class, suburban white kid a little and make him a little more resilient. The next day I decided to combine the Doi Phukha Loop and Nan-Khiang Khong leg, into one big day to make it more of a challenge. The early start from Nan was very cold (probably 10/12 degrees, with lots of thick fog. By the time we made it to Bo Kleua we were decidedly cold. Lots of nice tent camping now along the river in Bo Kleua which was new since my last visit. Headed from Bo Kleua to Pua and Chinag Khong on the 1148. Nice road, but steep and tight which knocked the average speed around a bit. In Chiang Khong we stayed at the Day Waterfront Hotel Google Maps both owners speak excellent English (I couldn't believe they hadn't lived in America for a spell), and were keen to teach is about the area and include us in the weekend Alms Ceremony on the river. Can't recommend this hotel more highly.

From Chiang Khong it was a short day to Mae Sai via Chiang Saen. I put it to Angus that we could have breakfast in Thailand, lunch in Laos, and dinner in Myanmar, and he thought that was a great story. In Chaen Saen for 800 THB for two, we got our longtail across to Laos Island (which is and isn't really Laos anymore, no passport stamp), just to eat lunch, and then back. I did some research and it was 1500THB each for a Visa On Arrival to enter Laos at Chiang Khong. Over lunch I had an epiphany. A Lao beer in Laos, a Burmese beer in Myanmar, and a Thai Beer in Thailand. The leg from Chaing Saen to Mae Sai was the only section where I got misplaced. I clicked on the link for directions to the hotel on bookings.com. and it sent me to a town by the same name in the opposite direction. I was heading North, but turned left and right roughly when told, for 100km, until I was only 15km from Mae Sai, but had used mainly major roads, instead of the minor roads that shadow the Ruak river. Disappointing, as this is a really cool ride. In Mae Sai we stayed in the Ban Khong Kam hotel Google Maps 800THB for a twin room, nice hotel, clean and tidy.

We crossed over to Tachileck just for the passport stamp and to eat to close out Angus's challenge. I had a Bier Myanmar to tick the 2 part of mine. Crossed back across to Thailand pretty quickly and had a quick walk around the markets on the Thai side. There is a motorbike helmet and apparel store there which looked to have some good stuff (on the main, undercover road through the market). We got back on the bike to find somewhere good to close out part 3 of the 3 beers challenge. I found Lao Karn Station Google Maps which had a good and and cold Beer Chang. After a big bottle two, I ran Angus back to the hotel, and returned for another couple before retiring for the night.

Last day of the loop probably ended up being the hardest. We left Mae Sai and followed the 1149 pretty much the whole way. For the first long while this road sits atop the ridge of the mountain dividing Thailand and Burma and crosses back and forth from one to the other. It was pretty cool to ride that, passing though military checkpoints and past army stations for both sides. The Day's ride would be Mae Sai to Doi Tung, to Doi Mae Salong, to Doi Ang Khang. This is by far the steepest and tightest riding I have ever done, in Thailand or anywhere else, so was especially challenging with a pillion.

Late lunch in Doi Ang Khang and then pushed on to Chiang Mai arriving late afternoon early evening for dinner and some idle time on Loi Kroh.

Last day was running around a little. At the Route 1148 Cafe (on the 1148) talking to a rider from CNX, he said that the Honda Training School would let the young bloke ride on their motocross track for 100THB, they wouldn't. johngooding met us there and we went out to Bua Tong Waterfall, Doi Saket Hot Springs, and then to Grand Canyon Water Park.

Angus really liked Grand Canyon, so we raced out there for a couple of hours on the last day, watching the clock the whole time to get the bike back, grab our bags, and head to the airport for the long haul home. You can't say we wasted a minute of our time in Thailand (even the idle time on Loi Kroh wasn't really wasted ;) ).

Riding without mates made the trip much more challenging for me, even though I had probably done at least 75% of the route at least once before. Trying to communicate it my very rusty and limited Thai, making decisions rather than just following the mob, and just generally concentrating more on navigating that I would normally need to was pretty draining. We also did some long days, both because of the slow speeds and wanting to cut a day out of the original plan to get a day in Chiang Mai back.

I'm not sure if the trip met it's original aim of 'hardening up' Angus, but it probably did to me.
 
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