Right. This is it. My wife got knocked off her bike just over 2 weeks ago in a hit and run, and has just started walking again, and I got 'gout' 4 days ago, which affects my left big toe - meaning changing gear is painful. We're therefore both limping around and in need of a nice trip to take our minds of the reality of staying at home in Hanoi. Panhou Village here we come. If we do it in 6 hours on my CB1100 I'll be chuffed. Be sticking to the big Lao Cai road for this first, long, stage; and hoping we are even allowed on that road since I beieve it's cars and trucks only.