Chiang Khong - Pua & back. A 2026 flood inspection.

DavidFL

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18th-19th August 2026 parts of Pua district, north of Nan, got hit by a rain bomb.

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Phana Sawan School

Ban Pang Yang School

Rong Ngae

Khon Kaen 2 Resevoir

Lamnam Khwang

The flood damage was horrific & more like a mud tsunami that roared through Pua, from east to west, where the Nam Pua collected all the water off the west side of Doi Phukha to flow into the Nan river.

It was a late getaway from Chiang Khong & the first stop was the Carrot at Chiang Kham, 100 kms down the road. The time was 3pm. A bit late, but the weather was superb, & no rain around.

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My preferred route to Nan was via R1091, which drops you right down in the city.
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Arrival time in Nan was 5.30pm after a gentle meander over R1091.
A power nap for the old fellow followed by a noche up at the Om Dao 2, a favourite GTR restaurant in Nan, with arguably the best Thai food in town.
Sadly tonight, though, the service was only ordinary, & my favourite glamour PG was nowhere to be seen.
I was back at my hotel, the Grand Mansion, & in bed by 9.30pm. A record for me!

Hot Bread was the go the next morning; however, they had already evacuated their premises as a precaution against flooding.
In 2025 they took a hit & were flooded several times.
But not this year, 2026, if they could.
What this allowed for was a 4-hour chat away from the premises.
My Hot Bread connection goes back well over a decade (Hot Bread has been going for 22 years), but each visit is only a quick breakfast stop & a brief natter between customers for Nan the owner.
Today was the day, and we had a surreal warm chat about life, ageing, politics and Nan : 9.30am-1.45pm!

The convenient brekky venue was the Cha Na Agape. a cool little health food establishment, not far from Hot Bread.
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A couple of tidbits from our 4-hour chat.
1. Gin's Restaurant will soon be reopening at Erabica Coffee in the evening. Erabica will run the brekky & coffee biz until 5pm, then Gin's will staff & run their restaurant biz in the evening.
2. Hot Bread may well not survive another flood should they get caught out again.
3. The new breed of Instagram / TikTok tourists are not interested in culture, ethnics or history. Just box tickers; been there, done that. And when your town and establishments get overrun with these sensitive, ignorant people, the enjoyment catering to them fades fast. Hot Bread appreciates customers who show interest in the history and culture of Nan. Farang are more interested than the Bkk TikTok mob!
4. The issue of annual floods & flooding in Nan seems to represent government lethargy & incompetence.
5. Ageing, good health and medical insurance are becoming a challenge. Prolonging life just to lie in bed. Or a hospital may not be the best way to go. Power on right to the end and enjoy every day as much as you can. Ride & travel while you can!

A lazy arvo in Nan City followed. A few Wat pics.

Wat Hua Khuan.
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Wat Ming Muang
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Wat Sri Pan Ton.
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Wat Suan Tan.
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The joy of that night then was discovering Brooklyn Cafe.
Searching for somewhere new for happy hour - a wine/cocktail bar with some music – The Brooklyn popped up on Google Maps.
There was no live music – only Friday / Saturday nights, but they had a superb sound system, a charming ambience and some interesting food dishes – I was hooked and spent my night there.

(Nan Restaurants)

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A steak fried rice.
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The night was a total winner for me.

Pua - Wiang Sa - Phrae -next.
 
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Day 3 Pua.

I was so enamored with the Brooklyn the night before; it had to be a 139 baht Brooklyn brekky the next day.
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Neither Hot Bread or Erabica was an option, as both were closed.
Erbaoca had already suffered minor flooding & is due to reopen on 15 September.
Hot Bread should be open tomorrow, 1st September, but obviously I'm long gone.

However, the size of the 139 baht Brooklyn brekky did disappoint me & I required two.

Fried egg, bacon, avocado & toast.
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The ham and cheese toast.
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Finally satiated with some good coffee, it was time to move on for a peek at Pua.

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The scene in the Pua Valley was shocking.
It looked like a mud tsunami had been through town.

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There was a competition between politicians to see who could help them most.
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It was hard to fathom where all the water had come from.
A second look at the data & hydrology of the Pua Valley showed a clearer picture.

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And I thought the rivers around Pua flowed south & then into the Nan River much farther south!
How wrong I was.
 
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With a weather forecast of more rain & a new storm inbound in the coming days, it was time to flee the scene in Pua..

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Wiang Sa, south of Nan, and the Chang Nan Coffeeshop were the next stops to check up on friends.
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In 2025 the Chang Nan was flooded 3 times severely with head-high floodwaters.

(Nan Floods & Coffee Shop updates)

In 2026 they seem to be ok still and are happy to see customers & friends.

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(Wiang Sa Restaurants)

Their business is slowly improving and justifiable so, for they have really excellent coffee and the most amazing lemon croissants.
I doubled up with 2 cuppas & 2 lemon croissants! The lemon croissant alone makes any stop in Wiang Sa worthwhile.

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Moving along Phrae was the last destination for the day.
R101 from Wiang Sa - Rong Khwang is an absolute gen om an undulating road, one of the most enjoyable flowing rides you can do in the North!
The Amornrak 2 is my go-to hotel in Phrae.

(Phrae Accommodation)

The Amornrak2 boasts the smallest shower cubicle I've ever seen.

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An early night in Phrae, saw a big double brekky the next morning.
Two establishments to check out,
1. Gingerbread & 2. CIDNI.
Gingerbread has been a long-time friend of GTR & in 2025 they suffered some severe flooding damage.

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Gingerbread's main line of biz now is selling local hooch.

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One of the Gingrbread employees had just returned from a few days off.
From Pua, she went home to help her family clean out after the floods.
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And Mum & Dad no longer have a house – all gone!
What a gal, still got a great smile.

The other venue to check out was CIDNI for a brunch brekky.
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A CIDNI Eggs Benedict Bf.

The husband and wife owners of CIDN – lived in Australia for 7 years studying & working part-time.
Back home in Phrae they speak great English, better than lung GTR, plus have an excellent breakfast – a brunch cafe!

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In the 2025 big flood at Phrae, CIDNI was closed for several months when they had chest-high water go through their cafe.
So far in 2026, no issues.

Highly recommended, CIDNI should be your go-to place for breakfast & lunch.
(Phrae Restaurants)

Now a special note re CIDNI's opening hours: 8am-5pm.
I recall on my last trip home from Nan via Phrae I decided to pop into the CIDNI before closing.
A spur-of-the-moment decision at Rong Khwang: I decided that if I rode hard & fast, I could be at CIDNI by 4.15pm.
Then double back to R103 from Phrae & carry on home to Chiang Khong via Song-Chiang Muan-Pong-Chang Kham-Chiang Khong.
And I got to CIDNI at 4.15pm.
BUT the kitchen closes at 4pm.
I was not impressed, and the CIDNI wife reminded me of our exchange & my pleas at the time.
Sorry, the kitchen is closed on time at 4pm.

Back on the road, I had one more stop to make at Chiang Muan to check on the mighty Tiew at her fabulous Yom River restaurant.

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(Chiang Muan Restaurants)

The restaurant backs onto the Yom River and in 2025 her place was flooded, and she was lucky to survive.
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Tiew is one of the shortest ladies I have ever met inThailand.
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Stop in any time your riding by on R1091.
Tiew has simple, cheap Thai dishes & her Teak restaurant with that huge tree outside is a charmer.

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So far all the GTR friends are safe from floods in 2026.
We wish them good luck for the last month of wet season.
 
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