Chiang Mai - Wiang Haeng - Piang Luang. On the trail of King Naresuan.

Oddvar

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Thanks David for doing all this research in Wiang Haeng. I have always just blasted by on the way to and from Pai on dirt bike. Will for sure slow down next time and spend a few days there. And this post will be my guide, until I get lost..
 

FrankT

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Sep 10, 2010
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I did this road last Saturday 22/11, it's indeed nice and quiet and the girls at the highest point selling coffee are still there, I felt cold (at noon time!) so opted for local hot tea which was even free of charge but instead of sitting at the hut I had to find a spot in the sun to warm up again but I could at least enjoy the view.

The road is in good condition and paved all the way to Piang Luang, between Wiang Heang and Piang Luang is spotted quite a few small, cheap but still decent looking resorts. the little huts with the nice view which you can see further above only cost Bht 159.-! Land must be cheap up there :)
In Wiang Haeng there a few options to buy fuel including benzene 95 and once you reach Piang Luang there is a good restaurant on the left hand side just after the gate opposite the school.

The border crossing is indeed still closed and overgrown as David found earlier in the year, does not look it will open any time soon, I even struggled to see a road on the Burmese side.

I left Mae Rim at 10am, rode to the border, had lunch and was back in Chiang Mai around 5pm so this is a nice day ride.
 

Johpa

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Aug 22, 2005
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Just rode from Mae Rim to Wiang Hang to Pai. The road from Chiang Dao to Wiang Hang was cold even at noon. Road to Pai is well marked just north of Wiang Hang, before the waterfall road. Road is paved for a few kilometers and then is newly graded and smooth to the checkpoint. Turning left to Pai at the checkpoint the road is OK, with some ruts, but my son had no problems riding it two-up on a 150 scooter. Still took us about three hours from Wiang Hang to Pai.
 
Nov 12, 2013
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Cold you say??

Bloody freezing more like! I left Mae Jo around 7am,and had to stop when I turned onto the 1178 to put another t shirt on.
Heaps of traffic too...sometimes they were on their side of the road....sometimes not.

But the scenery was nice...
:thumbup:

Johpa;302968 wrote: Just rode from Mae Rim to Wiang Hang to Pai. The road from Chiang Dao to Wiang Hang was cold even at noon. Road to Pai is well marked just north of Wiang Hang, before the waterfall road. Road is paved for a few kilometers and then is newly graded and smooth to the checkpoint. Turning left to Pai at the checkpoint the road is OK, with some ruts, but my son had no problems riding it two-up on a 150 scooter. Still took us about three hours from Wiang Hang to Pai.
 

Johpa

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Aug 22, 2005
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I stand corrected by my son, it only took two hours from Wiang Hang to Pai although it felt like three and my son does not recommended riding that road two-up on a scooter.
 

DavidFL

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FrankT;302930 wrote: I did this road last Saturday 22/11, it's indeed nice and quiet and the girls at the highest point selling coffee are still there, I felt cold (at noon time!) so opted for local hot tea which was even free of charge but instead of sitting at the hut I had to find a spot in the sun to warm up again but I could at least enjoy the view.

The road is in good condition and paved all the way to Piang Luang, between Wiang Heang and Piang Luang is spotted quite a few small, cheap but still decent looking resorts. the little huts with the nice view which you can see further above only cost Bht 159.-! Land must be cheap up there :)
In Wiang Haeng there a few options to buy fuel including benzene 95 and once you reach Piang Luang there is a good restaurant on the left hand side just after the gate opposite the school.

The border crossing is indeed still closed and overgrown as David found earlier in the year, does not look it will open any time soon, I even struggled to see a road on the Burmese side.

I left Mae Rim at 10am, rode to the border, had lunch and was back in Chiang Mai around 5pm so this is a nice day ride.
Thanks for the feedback Frank. Much appreciated. Glad it went all ok.
 

DavidFL

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Piang Luang was a KMT village that had a reputation for drugs, guns & gambling.

In the early - mid 1980s there was a clean up in Piang Luang & a large team of Thai army rangers flew in by helicopter with a hit list of bad KMT villagers to deal with.
Approximately 50 people were rounded up, escorted into the forest & never seen again.
The problem of wheeling & dealing in Piang Luang was solved (at the time.)


For a bit more background info check out Edith Mirante's fascinating book on the Burma border "Burmese Looking Glass."
Well worth reading if you are at all interested in the history & travels on the Thai - Burma border in the 80s.
 
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DavidFL

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DavidFL;300481 wrote: Wat Saen Hai - Wiang Haeng - Piang Luang attractions.

Wat Saen Hai
on R1322 8.5 kms after Wiang haeng
The chedi of Wat Phra That Saen Hai is believed to have been built during the Buddha’s lifetime. In 1914 it was restored with a blend of Shan and Lanna style.

There are two legends regarding this temple

1. The Lord Buddha travelled with Phra Anon to the area to propagate his teachings. A Karen villager offered him watermelon, but Buddha broke a tooth eating the watermelon. The Karen kept the tooth inside a stupa & when Phraya Chetabut heard about the incident he had a pagoda built to enshrine the tooth.

2. Later, after King Naresuan defeated the Burmese, he and his army put the booty they had won in jars and interred them under the pagoda. Thus the name of temple is Phra That Saen Hai or the ‘‘Pagoda of a Hundred Thousand Jars’’.
King Naresuan also had a pool called The Elephant’s Pool, built nearby.







Adjoining this chedi is a shrine to King Naresuan





At the foot of Wat Saen Hai, across the road is the well King Naresuan stopped at.

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the actual well

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DavidFL

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Wat Fa Wiang In - Piang Luang Attractions

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Is a temple built right on the Thai - Myanmar border.
It has had a very interesting history because of the strategic location exactly on the border.

The original round chedi is thought to have been built by King Naresuan in 1590-1605.

In 1969 General Mo Heng, a famous one armed Shan fighter "invited Tai from both sides of the border to renovate the ancient chedi later named "Mara Shina." At the hilltop bordering Thailand and Shan State they built Wat Fa Wiang In temple. When he was spared from fighting, Mo Heng came everyday to meditate at "Hor Sil," a small wooden meditation house close to the temple."

When Khun Sa surrendered to the Burmese in 1996, the Burmese moved into the area on the Burmese side of the border.
The Wa then joined the Burmese. Amphetamines became a problem flooding the area.
In May 2002 the Burmese army & remaining Shan were engaged in serious fighting for control of the area.
The Shan lost after a 32 day battle, withdrew & 600 Shan people fled to Piang Luang.
They camped in Wat Fa Wiang Inn, setting up the Koung Jour refugee camp.
The camp still remains in Piang Luang by the temple.

Burmese soldiers then occupied the part of the temple grounds on the Burmese side of the border; & they still remain in control of the area on the Myanmar side today.
The monks stayed & on the Thai side the temple continues to flourish with a big school, that was originally started for the Shan refugees in 1987.

I wish I knew what this was all about

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A renowned Shan artist - Khampang Salaween- was commissioned to draw the new murals for the round chedi.
These murals generally depict Buddha's life. I found some of them quite different, & beautiful - the place is well worth checking out.

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more to come..

Wat Fah Wiang In inaugurated a Buddha image and another statue to King Naresuan on 1st March 2019.
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It was a special event with the Buddha image & a highly respected accompanying abbot from Kamphaeng Phet.
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Great care was taken with the King Naresuan statue & sword.
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The Kamphaeng Phet abbot taking great care to explain to myself & the soldiers that steel was from Lek Nam Pi @ Uttaradit.
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The offerings to the spirits were impressive.
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Ms Tang from the Krua Piang Luang restaurant was the wonderful lady who provided the tip off for the event, suggesting I hang around in Piang Luang for another day; and I was extremely pleased I did.
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The morning's festivities & ceremony started at 9.09 sharp.
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Villagers came from afar for the occasion, some from Lampang just for the day; whatever they all enjoyed the ceremony & paying their respects.
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A small dance was performed by some gals from Chiang Mai University
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After the dance performance, villagers were invited to individually pray & pay their respects
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With the main ceremonies over it was time to feed the monks & perhaps complete the event in the afternoon.
Unfortunately for me time was up, and it was back to the hotel, pack up & head off towards Chiang Khong.

I look forward to another visit to Piang Luang very soon.

Piang Luang and Wieng Haeng Accommodation

Wiang Haeng - Piang Luang Restaurants