Motorcycle Chains

johngooding

Ol'Timer
Sep 4, 2007
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Its an interesting site and agree that all the O rings are supposed to do is keep in lubrication, and keep out dirt from the wear areas, so allowing less frequent external lubrication.

However when I see the example picture of how to lube a chain, and I see the tyre is going to be covered in chain lube, I do worry a little!!!
 

Pikey

www.tbbtours.com
Yes, interesting site. To give you a little tip John, when I lube my chain, I cut a piece of cardboard from say, a cereal box and hold it behind the chain when spraying to keep it off the tyre.

Also, on dirtbikes, I use WD-40 or some similar multilube as I suspect that the "stickier" types of lubes just attract dust/grit and form a nice friction paste to grind your chain away - anyone have any views on this?

Cheers,

Pikey.
 

johngooding

Ol'Timer
Sep 4, 2007
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Thanks Pikey,
Definately a good idea to keep the lube off the tyres. I was just concerned that the chain site would show a picture showing what seems to be very sloppy practice.
I once spent quite a few hours surfing different chain maint sites, and found there is a camp that says WD40 alone regularly applied will do the job just as well as the expensive lubes. There are also many people who say WD40 causes corrosion problems. Many sites test different lubes and the ones that seem to come out best are the ones that dry to a non tacky finish.
I think the key is REGULAR lubing, and keeping the tension correct. WD 40 does do quite a good job of cleaning if sprayed on and wiped off, then a final light spray.
Interested to hear what others think, as some of the recommeded lubes on the sites I have seen are not readily available under the same brand names here in Thailand.
Cheers
John
 

Franz

Ol'Timer
Jun 28, 2007
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John I use sometimes a similar product SONAX MoS2 and it always worked out fine, sometimes I use a greasing spray also mostly from SONAX, while using this one, dirt builds up in no time whereas the MoS2 doesn't attach every bit of stone and branch to both chain and fixed parts. Nor did I have too much negative experiences with corrosion once sprayed with MoS2. So as for you, it also works out for me. Cheers, Franz
 

Pikey

www.tbbtours.com
Good stuff chaps. I'm a bit puzzled about reports of corrosion using WD-40 e.t.c as most of these multilubes are water-dispersants & rust inhibitors that leave a thin film of lube after the carrier liquid has evapourated.

Also, I always lube my chain after a ride whilst it's still hot - the thinking being that the lube will flow more freely and the metal is expanded so maybe the lube will find it's way into those places with tighter tolerances. Not sure though....

Cheers,

Pikey.
 

johngooding

Ol'Timer
Sep 4, 2007
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Good tip about doing it while the chain hot, I do the same, although here in Khon Kaen it never seems to drop below 30C in the day anyway.
I was suprised about the corrosion issue with the WD40 type products, but if you do a google on chain, WD40 and corrosion you will find a number of studies that state this. Anyway we are in Thailand and I guess conditions here are very different from many other countries and if it works here why knock it?
 

rich1968

Ol'Timer
Aug 5, 2007
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Just bought a new Rk chain and they advise using SAE 80-90 gear lube, so I went out and got some high viscosity outboard gear lube SAE 80-90 made for outboard motors (220 baht for 10 fl.oz) In the past I have used WD40 although I found it not very long lasting, hopefully this wont be the case now.
 

DavidFL

Administrator
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Jan 16, 2003
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www.thegtrider.com
CHAIN LUBES
Well here it is for me

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcyc ... s-2008.htm

From the above

Chain Lube Criteria
So that's why we basically have to trust whatever they're telling us on the label. Kind of like motorcycle oil... Let's face it: the criteria for motorcycle chain lubes are:

Availability: That is, you can get it without too much effort;

Price: It costs what you're willing to pay;

Ease of Use: Easy to apply (whatever the word "easy" means to you -- because if it ain't easy to apply, you're not going to do it, and the "best" chain lube in the world is worthless if it sits on the shelf);

Resistance to Fling-Off: It stays on the chain and doesn't spray all over the wheel, swingarm and everywhere else;

Longevity: The product seems to last, at least until the next time you get up enough energy to bend down and do the job again;

Effectiveness: That it works (or at least seems to, because again -- who really knows?).
 

DavidFL

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johngooding wrote: Hi David,
Ive seen this one very interesting. Can you get Klotz KLR over here?
Cheers, John
Just got an email in from the USA:, with these claimed distributors

NITHICHA CO. LTD
22 Sukumvit 101 Punvithi 24
Banchak, Phrakanog
Bangkok Thailand
668 1 8084814

SIAM ENGINEERING SPAREPART
12/12/Moo 11 Latphrao-WangHin
Bangkok Thailand
662 570 43213
http://board.gt-rider.com/topic.asp?TOP ... erms=DR650

NTC ENGINEERING HOBBIES
150 south Bridge Road
#02-22 Fook Hai Building
Singapore
65341162
www.mrcstore.com
 
Joe's Bike team use gear oil SAE 140. The problem with this for me is that I'm travelling and it's nowhere near as easy to apply as a spray.

Reading both articles about chains and lube I think you will detect some contradictions.

Try to make sure the spray gets on the side plates -- that's really what you're lubing, because the O-rings are theoretically keeping the insides of the rollers filled with grease, and any lube on the outside of the rollers is gone the first time they pass through the sprockets.
I'm afraid I can't agree with both these statements. Whether the plates are rusty or not is irrelevant. It's the pins passing through the inner plates that are wearing. The main reason for lube is that you want to keep grime and especially water away from the O-rings and you do want the rollers at least slightly lubricated. Because if the rollers and sprocket are dry you will get excessive wear on the sprockets.

I've been using Teflon sprays with good effect in dry climates, getting 30000km out of a kit. But the Teflon doesn't seem good at keeping water away and water kills chains.

Pity we are for the most part stuck with this design fault that is an open running chain...
 

johngooding

Ol'Timer
Sep 4, 2007
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Quote:

Pity we are for the most part stuck with this design fault that is an open running chain...

....which the Yamaha FJR solves quite neatly...with a shaft drive 'lol'
 

Franz

Ol'Timer
Jun 28, 2007
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Pity we are for the most part stuck with this design fault that is an open running chain...

On all of my former Waves & Dreams, chain was enclosed, if it's humid in the housing then your chain will get rust all over in a veryquick time, so it happened to me, it's better not to enclose it, so you see every day when there's a need for some lubrication or cleaning up.......and for me the same as for John, FJR's shaft drive is like heaven for us lazy oil-guys..... :p
 

DavidFL

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Jan 16, 2003
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Time to pop this one up again.

I'm up for yet another chain on the AT & would like to source something from Bangkok, as my Singapore contact is not so reliable or efficient.
I once had a chain airmailed in from Sing bin a hurry & got hot big tome for customs duty - almost as much as the chain cost because the duty was paid on the freight (Postage) as well. Double ouch.

So what are you guys using & from whom do you order?
I'm after 525 size O or X-ring with 124 links + a new master joining link.

Let's get some ideas coming in....
 

DavidFL

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Davidfl;268042 wrote: Time to pop this one up again.

I'm up for yet another chain on the AT & would like to source something from Bangkok, as my Singapore contact is not so reliable or efficient.
I once had a chain airmailed in from Sing bin a hurry & got hot big tome for customs duty - almost as much as the chain cost because the duty was paid on the freight (Postage) as well. Double ouch.

So what are you guys using & from whom do you order?
I'm after 525 size O or X-ring with 124 links + a new master joining link.

Let's get some ideas coming in....
Interesting no response.
Doesn't anyone wear out their rear chains & need to order a new one?
What you do order & from where?
 

Cruising

Ol'Timer
Jun 28, 2010
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I`m after a 428 O ring sometime soon.
Nan at the Piston Shop said he could get me one from somewhere in CM... might be worth a call to see if he can get one?
 

furyrider

Ol'Timer
Jan 27, 2011
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Sorry David
I have shaft drive. Maintenance is low however once things do wear out I will be wishing I had a chain and sprockets. But that should be many KM down the road.
 

johnnysneds

Ol'Timer
Oct 26, 2009
209
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I get my Renthal O ring chains from Dirt Shop BKK. They also stock EK chains.
I enquired not long ago around the bike shops in Chiang Mai and couldn't find anything decent, maybe I didn't try hard enough! Most of the chains seemed to be cheap never heard of brands. Better safe than sorry so paid the extra for Renthal.
Carrying on the subject of chain lubrication. I remove and clean my chains on a monthly basis or shorter depending on what I've been getting up to. I fill a bucket with hot soapy water (washing up liquid) and give it a good scrub with a sponge. After it dries the only area I'm interested in lubricating is the outer areas of the o-rings to preserve the rubber. So a very light application only. I direct the nozzle of the spray can directly down on the chain above the rear sprocket whilst rotating the wheel and clean the excess from the sprocket afterwards, never get on your tyre this way. Take for a quick spin come back and clean the fling and there's almost no mess thereafter on further rides.
 

daewoo

Ol'Timer
Dec 6, 2005
821
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Hi David... not a 100% answer to your question, but worth a try perhaps...

I got new chain and sprockets, freighted to Australia, from Rocky Mountain ATV apparently they buy DID chain by the roll, and cut it themself, which brings the price way down... they also have their own brand of sprockets "Primary Drive" which get good reviews on the KLR forums, which is why I bought them... hassle is that, they are only available through them... I broke the clip for the clip-link installing it like the butcher I am... but a good bike store was able to supply another link to suit the chain...

Hope this helps... not sure if they will mail to Th, but since they are a small concern, at least they are flexible if you contact them directly (maybe list the price lower as well)...

Cheers,
Daewoo
 

daewoo

Ol'Timer
Dec 6, 2005
821
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18
back to the lube topic...

I clean the chain with a kerosene soaked rag, then re-oil with a silicone based lube... If the chain is particularly dirty, I will use kerosene in a trigger type spray bottle to clean it even better before re-lubing...

I do believe that most of the function of lubing is to keep the grit away from the o-rings... You want to clean the chain, but not with a solvent, because you need to leave a layer of something to stop things from rusting... then you want to keep a layer of something, to stop things from rusting, and also so that when it heats up, it will run towards the seals...

but IMHO you don't want 'oil or grease' because it attracts and retains dirt and grime, and that too works it's way into the o-rings, breaking them down, and letting the most important grease out resulting in eventual chain failure...

You also want the chain to slide on and off the sprockets with minimum friction, so the layer of something needs to the a lubricant as well as a rust barrier...

I don't like the idea of WD40, because it washes the other lube away, and therefore the only lube left is the thin layer of very fine WD40 oil, which also builds up grime very quickly...

I reckon that a silicone spray fits the bill pretty well...

Cheers,
Daewoo
 

Naz

Active Member
Nov 10, 2010
29
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where do you getting kerosene? im using diesel if i decide to clean it

then wd40 here is pricey (at least in home pro 200 baht for can if i remember)

im using veloil chain lube which they are using at kawi's service, but i getting it for 75 bahtcan in local shop instead of overpriced in kawi
it has great penetrating power its sparkling while sprayed on, i using it as a rust inhibitor as well, and thing does great. has greeny colour first which dissapears after sprayed.
it does fling off little by little but its actually required for me as im riding in dirts a lot.

locals asking to donate them worked out oil after changing it, so they have something to lube their chains for free, those who using it -ride with black chains, those who not with- blackorange ones :)
 

cdrw

Ol'Timer
Oct 6, 2006
572
1
16
Naz;269665] wrote:
where do you getting kerosene?
***Kerosene is "namH manM gaatH" (the capital letters H & M refer to high & medium tones). Kerosene is available, at most hardware and paint stores

then wd40 here is pricey
***I don't use WD40...due to some sites having negative reports for using it on chains. Do a search and arrive at your own conclusion.

im using veloil chain lube
***Maybe consider using automatic transmission fluid (ATF) instead. Cheap to buy, works fine. Up to you.
 

Fishenough

Ol'Timer
Nov 2, 2008
344
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Bumping this thread.

Anyone have a recommendation for a 520 x-ring chain available in Chiang Mai? I've only found the Piston shop to carry stock, any other ideas?

From here

mussen;245122 wrote: If anyone wants x-ring chains in 520 or 525 size, PM me, prices are ;

X-ring chain 520- 120 link USD$37.95
X-ring chain 525- 120 link USD$39.95

Postage extra.

Manufactured here in Thailand, they are Asahi brand, and are an impressive chain. I have only ever used the non o-ring chains they make, and on a 250cc four stroke dirt bike and I'm very impressed with them. Prior to using them I used RK (gold) brand chains, and noticed considerable stretch after only a couple of rides, even though I looked after the chain really well (cleaned, lubed regularly). In fact with this Asahi chain I've got on the bike now, I've started treating it like an o-ring because it hasn't shown signs of wear.