Oub Kham Museum Chiang Rai

DavidFL

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Davidfl;245239 wrote:

The master plan for this trip was to check out some "new" (for me) attractions in Chiang Rai.
1. Oub Kham Museum
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มูลนิธิช่วยปลดหนี้ สำรวจประวัติศาสตร์และวัฒนธรรม

Unfortunately no photos are allowed in the museum, but I did manage one with Ajarn Julasak Suriyachai outside his museum
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The museum is a truly amazing place & could be one of the North's best kept secrets? But it shouldn't be.
Everyone should check out this place in Chiang Rai!
9th August 2012

From

Finally on my 3rd visit to the Oub Kham Museum I was able to persuade Ajarn Julasak to let me photograph inside his museum.
It is a truly amazing museum & collection of Shan / Tai artifacts - one of the finest in Asia, & justifiably so!

Every piece has a story & "we" in North Thailand should be extremely proud & fortunate to have such a first class collection of Shan / Tai history, for without him, there would almost be none.

The items come from Myanmar, S-w China, North Laos, & North Vietnam & are a magnificent tribute to the Shan-Tai people & their history.

The collection is priceless & as such the museum is highly recommended.

Now dare I say it: you can't understand the importance of Shan-Tai history in the region until you see this incredible collection. Don't miss it if you are in Chiang Rai, or just passing through.

A few mediocre photos to start the ball rolling, & I want to go back again (Rhodie are you listening.)
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The first room exhibits Lanna arts and accessories such as silverware of Tai peoples such as the Tai Lu, old coins from China’s Yunnan province and an old divorce certificate made of silver. There are also royal court utensils used during the Lan Xang period in Laos, crowns worn by Tai rulers and a 3,000-year old bronze drum used in rituals to pray for rain.

Old photos of Shan Kings
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many of the items in the glass cabinets are from royalty, have a story & are hundreds of years old.
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A marvellous collection of beautiful ancient Buddhas in various styles.
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Ancient Shan Princes
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above, the bottom right pic was the Shan teakwood palace deliberately torched & burnt to the ground by the Burmese in an effort to destroy Shan history.

The Golden robes of Shan royalty
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more coming.....
 
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DavidFL

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more pix from a stunning collection....

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The Buddha images in the second room include an ancient seated Buddha statue from the Chiang Saen era, a white marble image from Chiang Tung in Burma’s Shan State and various small seated figures made from colourful stones, some of which date back 15 centuries.

The third room exhibits crafted wooden Buddha images from Burma as well as a very small Buddha figurine made of gold measuring 0.5 centimetre in height. The image is around 500 years old.
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DavidFL

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A 200 year old Tai (Shan) temple ceiling piece.
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The fourth room shows various items from the royal court, including an old silk sarong with gold threads from the family of the ruler of Nan, as well as old fabrics from Chiang Tung, Xishuangbanna and Mandalay. There are also ancient beads and an old oub kham from Chiang Tung.According to the museum guide, oub were also used for offering food to monks. They are usually made of woven bamboo covered with lacquer. Oub kham, on the other hand, were used by royal families, so they were decorated with beautiful ornaments, covered with lacquer and coated with gold leaf while the cover bore a legendary phoenix. The museum also displayed various oub kham. Julasak said some of them were his family heirlooms because he is a descendant of the first ruler of Lampang.
Royal costumes
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A highlight of this room is a weird looking animal called ‘Panjarup’ or Phaya Luang _ a legendary creature of the Lanna period that was often used to decorate giant gongs used for auspicious ceremonies. This example was made of wood, which had been crafted to imitate the organs of five animals; the body of a naga, wings of a bird, horn and legs of a deer, trunk and tusks of an elephant and tail of a fish.
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DavidFL

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The sixth room is a fashion room with display of the many superb colourful costumes of the Shan- Tai people in the region.
The Tai ethnolinguistic grouping has 56 tribes spread across S-E Asia; & the costumes come from North Myanmar, China, North Vietnam, North Laos & even Bhutan.

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Some info to digest....

THE SHAN - TAI
Shan is a Burmese rendering of Siam. The Thai call our Shans as Thai-yai or Elder Thai – and Tai or Thai is only a dialectical rendering.

The Tai Speaking Peoples stretch from North East India, through Burma, the Kachin and Shan States, Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam and south and southwest China.
Chinese Prime Minister Chou-en-lai of PRC [Communist Mainland China] said in 1957 to Soa Shwe Thaike, who was the first President of the Independent Burma, that in China there were then 100million Tai/Dai Speaking Peoples in China.

ETYMOLOGY
The Shan identify themselves as “Tai”, which means “free men” while “Shan” is a Burmese language term. The Shan share their creation myth with the Lao people and believe their race was founded by Khun Borom the first king to establish Sip Song Pan Na (12 thousand Fields) along the Mekong (Mae Nam Kong).

The Shan people as a whole can be divided into four major groups:
The Tai Yai or “Shan Proper”
The Tai Lue, located in Sipsong Panna (China) and the eastern states
The Tai Khuen, the majority of Keng Tung
The Tai Neua, mostly in Sipsong Panna

CULTURE
The Shan are traditionally wet-rice cultivators, shopkeepers, and artisans. Most Shan are Theravada Buddhists and/or observe their traditional religion, which is related to animist practices.

LANGUAGE
The Shan language, which is spoken by about 5 or 6 millions is closely related to Thai and Lao, and is part of the family of Tai-Kadai languages. It is spoken in Shan State, some parts of Kachin State, some parts of Sagaing Division in Burma, parts of Yunnan, and Mae Hong Son Province in northwestern Thailand. The two major dialects differ in number of tones: Hsenwi Shan has six tones, while Mongnai Shan has five. Its written script is an adaptation of the Mon script (like Burmese), although several other scripts exist.[3] However, few Shan are literate, and many are bilingual in Burmese.

HISTORY
The Tai-Shan people are believed to have migrated from Yunnan in China. The Shan are descendants of the oldest branch of the Tai-Shan, known as Tai Long (Great Tai) or Thai Yai (Big Thai). The Tai-Shan who migrated to the south and now inhabit modern-day Laos and Thailand are known as Tai Noi (or Tai Nyai), while those in parts of northern Thailand and Laos are commonly known as Tai Noi (Little Tai – Lao spoken). The Shan have inhabited the Shan Plateau and other parts of modern-day Myanmar as far back as the 10th century AD. The Shan kingdom of Mong Mao (Muang Mao) existed as early as the 10th century AD but became a Burmese vassal state during the reign of King Anawrahta of Bagan (Pagan). Note: the Mao people are consider a Shan subgroup.

After the Bagan kingdom fell to the Mongols in 1287, the Tai-Shan people quickly gained power throughout South East Asia, and founded:
Lan Xang (Laos)
Lanna (Chiang Mai)
Ayutthaya (Siam)
Assam
Ava by Burmanized Shan kings
Bago by Monized Shan kings
Several Shan states in the Shan hills, Kachin hills, Yunnan and parts of Vietnam.

Many famous Ava and Bago kings of Burmese history were of (partial) Shan descent.

The Burmanized Shan kings of Ava fought Monized Shan kings of Bago for control of Ayeyarwady valley.

Various Shan states fought Burmanized Shan kings of Ava for the control of Upper Myanmar.

The Shan kingdom of Monyin (Mong Yang) defeated the Ava kingdom in 1527, and ruled all of Upper Myanmar until 1555.

Burmese king Bayinnaung (1551-1581) conquered all of the Shan states in 1557. Although the Shan states would become a tributary to Ayeyarwady valley based Burmese kingdoms for many centuries, the Shan Saophas retained a large degree of autonomy and often allied themselves with either ChiangMai, Ayuttaya or Siam.

After the Third Anglo-Burmese War in 1885, the British gained control of the Shan states and pushed the borders to the mountains, thereby robbing Siam of thousands of square miles of territory.

(The last Burmese king Thibaw was half-Shan.)

Under the British colonial administration, the Shan principalities were administered separately as British protectorates with limited monarchical powers invested in the Shan Saophas.

After World War II, the Shan and other ethnic minority leaders negotiated with the majority Burman leadership at the Panglong Conference, and agreed to gain independence from Britain as part of Union of Burma. The Shan states were given the option to secede after 10 years of independence. The Shan states became Shan State in 1948 as part of the newly independent Burma.

General Ne Win’s coup d’etat overthrew the democratically elected government in 1962, and abolished Shan saopha system. In an effort to extract themselves from under the Burmese thumb, various Shan political organizations have attempted to reassert Siam’s (Thailand) ancient claim to the Shan States, but without success.

POLITICS
The Shan have been engaged in an intermittent civil war within Burma for decades. There are two main armed rebel forces operating within Shan State: the Shan State Army/Special Region 3 and Shan State Army/Restoration Council of Shan State. In 2005 the SSNA was effectively abolished after its surrender to the Burmese government, some units joined the SSA/RCSS, which has yet to sign any agreements, and is still engaged in guerrilla warfare against the Burma Army.

During conflicts, the Shan (Thai Yai) are often burned out of their villages and forced to flee into Thailand. There, they are not given refugee status, and often work as undocumented laborers. Whether or not there is an ongoing conflict, the Shan are subject to depredations by the Burmese government; in particular, young men may be impressed into the Burmese Army for indefinite periods, or they may be enslaved to do road work for a number of months – with no wages and no food. The horrific conditions inside Burma have led to a massive exodus of young Shan males to neighboring Thailand, where they typically find work in construction, at daily wages which run about 100-200 baht. However unsatisfactory these conditions may be, all of these refugees are well aware that at least they are being paid for their work, and that every day spent in Thailand is another day that the Burmese government cannot impress or enslave them. Some estimates of Shan refugees in Thailand run as high as two million, an extremely high number when compared with estimates of the total Shan population at some six million.
In view of the fact that quite a few of us are waiting to tour & ride in Myanmar, the above history of the Shan maybe interesting reading.
Enjoy & if you've got time do check out the Oub Kham Museum in Chiang Rai, for without Ajarn Julasak, these pieces of their history would not have been saved.

One page to come...
 

ianyonok

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It seems Khun Julasak's collection is still growing which is excellent.
An interesting history of the Shan too, David, thank you. The historical information on display at Khun Sa's museum is somewhat confusing, but the old photos of the Shan kings from 100 years ago or so are fascinating. A ride up there, combined with the ridge road at the back of Doi Tung and Doi Chang Moob is superb. A future route for the Chiang Rai bikers day out maybe....
 

DavidFL

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The final "7th room", adjacent to the main museum... houses the pride of the museum.

This is Lanna-style throne, from Chiang Tung in Shan Sate, north Myanmar & more than 400 years old.
The throne is artistically crafted wood shining in gold and decorated with propitious items. On the top is a Brahma flanked by angels on left and right, plus a gold Buddha image in the middle of the backdrop.

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Jul 25, 2010
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Indeed, this museum has a spectacular collection of rare artifacts. I cant imagine that there is such a collection under one roof anywhere else. It really is very special.
I went through the museum with Davidfl (thanks for the intro to this David) with a lovely lass who gave us the low down on what was what but to be honest, it was fairly superficial in detail.
However, what would be truly spectacular, is the stories behind how some of these goodies were acquired in the first place. I am sure that here must be a great book within the tales of compiling this wonderful collection.
As an aside, we swung by a temple under construction overlooking the valley heading north to Chiang Rai. What a great view although the photos don't do the view justice taken close to midday.

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Jurgen

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Fabulous Ali Baba cave David, aninteresting destination and a great stop-over during a North Thailandtrip. Your pictures are enthralling and will certainly attract manypeople to this exceptional Shan museum. Thank you also for theaccompanying information.