Tai Lue Heritage

Jurgen

Moderator
Oct 23, 2009
670
106
43
www.chopard.org
1 . Introduction


North Thailand features a wealth of interesting destinations linked by an amazingly well-built road network. This is an invitation to travel and attracts many visitors, locals as well as foreign tourists. There is, however, more to the Lanna region than asphalt ribbons, mountainous landscapes, lush forests and yellow rice fields; it is home to a unique diversity of populations still showcasing ancestral traditions.

Knowledge fosters interest, the deeper our acquaintance with an area’s residents the more likely we are to slow down and to get in touch with strangers. The immediate rewards are additional insights in different cultures, often proudly maintained against the odds of civilization.

For a series of short North Thailand stories, I will focus on one particular ethnic family: the “Tai Lue”. This group is not as popular with visitors as the various “hill-tribes”,it is, nonetheless, well represented and can be found in numerous dedicated villages (see list at the end).


22885769_10154935628043021_644701911600247892_n-L.jpg

A group of Tai Lue ladies dressed for a Chula Kathin festival in Sri Donchai; these festivals make great pictures opportunities.


Globalization leads to uniformity, and, in addition, for about one century, Thailand’s central policy promoted “Thai-ness” as a way to integrate minorities. The beginning of the twenty-first century has seen a revival in local costumes, a proudness to be part of an ethnic group and to showcase inherited cultures.

Despite its official acceptance and support, the pride to be different and the sense of belonging to a particular community, might not be enough to maintain all traditions alive for future generations. It is a favor to experience bustling societies, content to share their traditional lifestyles. Interest from outsiders, visit to villages, participation to festivals and support to craftsmen will foster preservation of this valuable diversity.

Not every culturally interesting places or activity can be experienced on a daily basis; festivals, notably, have their particular calendars. Other interesting features, like temples, handicraft shops and museums visits, are available all year round.


_JC10217-Edit-L.jpg

Traditional Tai Lue temples feature a unique architecture (Wat Tha Fa Tai)


The most striking aspects of the Tai Lue’s way of life are found in the following rubrics: temples (building and decoration), traditional houses, handicraft production (particularly weavings), dedicated museums, festivals, food outlets, handicraft shops, clothing and apparels, dances and music, social life.

Depending on individual interests, visits have to be scheduled at specific times and to particular destinations (i.e. festival periods and precise localizations). For the casual traveler, however, it is already enriching to stop for a short visit and appreciate the cultural gems found along the North Thailand roads.


DSC_8011-Edit-L.jpg

« Lue Lai Kham », a dedicated Tai Lue museum in Sri Donchai, near Chiangkhong


T2JC6781-L.jpg

A Tai Lue house with an history, a modified architecture to adapt it to Lanna style (Chiangmai University)


IMG_2878-L.jpg

Woven banner decorations are a colorful features of Tai Lue temples


T2JC9429-XL.jpg

Tai Lue food can be enjoyed in restaurants or during festivals


NK7_7132-L.jpg

Weaving looms are still found under the houses in Tai Lue villages


NK7_5223-Full-2-L.jpg

Handicraft demonstration -Wat Phrathat Sob Waen, Chiang Kham


NK7_4396-Modifier-L.jpg

Tai Lue are skilled in sword manipulation and dances (Had Bai festival)


DSC_9295-Edit-XL.jpg

Traditional music is played during festivals – the picture shows a musician performing in Wat Nong Bua


T2JC9357-L.jpg

Tai Lue no longer wear costumes for daily chores – the traditional dresses are reserved for festive days and temple visits


NIKON%20CORPORATION%20NIKON%20Z%206%206064x4040_000636-XL.jpg

Tai Lue artists greatly influenced the Nan school of painting – iconic examples are mural painting like the “Whispering Lovers” (wat Pumpin in Nan)


PR2X3111-XL.jpg

In memoriam: Nikham (Fai ) Kuntawong wearing her Tai Lue outfit



Nowadays, people from North Thailand refer to themselves as “Khon Muang” (People from the Principalities). This appellation replaces the name “Yuan” fallen in disuse. However, as populations were heavily mixed in the 19th century, after Lanna’s complete repopulation, it covers more ethnics groups, with similar languages and cultural backgrounds.

The Tai Lue have partly kept their vibrant heritage, but they also share many similarities with the Yuan, notably religion, architecture and many traditions. In larger cities and with integration in other communities, an increasing number do not retain their specific customs. This is, again, a reason to take the chance to support and appreciate what is still available, now-a-days, from their ancestral legacy.



To conclude this “introduction chapter”, I am adding two quotations relevant to the Tai Lue integration in North Thailand:

« Officially, around 83,000 Tai Lues live in Thailand according to an early 2000 census. In reality, though, the population of Tai Lues is believed to be much higher than that »

“Half of the people in Chiang Mai today are of Tai Lue descent,” said Dr Vithi

In: A tale of a mythical, lost kingdom and the Tais from China
Pear Maneechote, August 7, 2020
www.thaienquirer.com


« Prior to the 1980s, the Lue of Thailand commonly avoided calling themselves Lue, for fear of ethnic discrimination. The Lue assimilation into Thai nationality was almost complete in the 1990s.They spoke standard Thai, wore mainstream clothing and built houses in Thai design. Since then, however, Lue communities in Thailand were encouraged from outside, especially by the Ministry of Education in Bangkok, to recall their Lue heritage. In response to these influences, the Lue underwent a cultural revival and today are proud of their origin. Lue tradition and customs are now promoted across the northern”

In: Tai Groups of Thailand volume 2
Profile of Existing Groups
Joachim Schliesinger
White Books, Bangkok 2014





Tai Lue villages can be found several North Thailand provinces.
(References: Displayed panels in “Lu Lai Kham museum” - Wikiwand :Tai Lue in Thailand – personal visits)


Chaingmai:

Doi Sakhet: Ban Luang Nuea – Ban Luang Tai
San Kamphaeng: Ban Buak Khang
Samoeng: Ban Mae Sap Nua - Ban Mae Sap Tai
Mae Ai: Ban Wang Phai - Ban Hua Muang Ngam

Chiangrai:

Chiangkhong: Had Bai - Sri Donchai - Wiang - Mai Thung Mod
- Huay Meng
Baan Tha Kham, Muang Yai,
Wiang Kaen
Chiang Saen (district), Mai Sai (district)


Nan:


Tha Wang Pha (ditrict)
Pua (ditrict)
Chiang Klang (ditrict)
Thung Chang (ditrict)
Chaloem Phra Kiat district


Phrae: Ban Thin

Payao:

Chiang Muan (ditrict)
Chiang Kham (ditrict),


Lampang:

Mueang Lampang/Tambon Kluay Phae : Ban Kluang Luang – Ban Klang Klang – Ban Klang Phae, Ban Klang Fai – Ban Kluay Muang
Mae Tha: Ban Mae Pung – Ban Hong Ha


Lamphun:

Mueang Lamphun - Ban Thi (district),



---------------------------------------------------
Bibliographical notes:

While all illustrations are my own pictures, the accompanying stories are based on published researches.



A Brief History of Lanna
Northern Thailand from Past to Present
Hans Penth
Silkworm Books, Chiangmai 2004


Tai Groups of Thailand Volume 1
Joachim Schliesinger
White Lotus, Bangkok Press 2001


Tai Groups of Thailand volume 2
Profile of Existing Groups
Joachim Schliesinger
White Lotus, Bangkok 2014


Khon Muang. People and Principalities of North Thailand
Andrew Forbes and David Henley
1997 A Teak House Publication


Cultural heritage of Tai Lue textiles
Soangsak Prangwatanakun
Faculty of Humanities, Chiangmai University
August 2008
 

DavidFL

Administrator
Staff member
Jan 16, 2003
12,318
2,687
113
67
Chiang Khong
www.thegtrider.com
Fantastic Jurgen.
Looking forward to this greatly.
I sincerely hope this thread helps riders to be more aware of the different ethnic communities they travel through, especially the Lue, and so make each trip more rewarding.
 

DKT Dave

Ol'Timer
Sep 25, 2019
55
57
18
What an interesting read! Great work Jurgen. I am looking forward to reading the next chapter. The Tai Lue are certainly spread out across the Northern provinces, as you have pointed out. Keep it coming please!!
 

Steve Merchant

Ol'Timer
Dec 11, 2009
67
50
18
Lovely photos Jurgen. When I arrived here and travelled around more I was aware of the different groups but it was the "hilltribes' that stood out due to the outfits. I read that the Thai Lue were mainly near the Mekhong so it was some surprise to find those two villages you mention, Luang Nuea and Luang Tai right next to my home in Doi Saket. Good to see these people taking pride in their history isn't it? Thanks for the story.
 

Jurgen

Moderator
Oct 23, 2009
670
106
43
www.chopard.org
Thank you everybody for your interest in the gentle Tai Lue folks and for reading and commenting on my post. I have scheduled to write a comprehensive overview, but I am still in the process to gathering more information as legends for the pictures.
 

King of Jars

Ol'Timer
Feb 27, 2008
83
15
8
63
Nongprue, Cholburi, Thailand
Well, Jürgen, you did it again, and again, and again. Thank you profoundly for your time, dedication and passion into a subject so often overlooked and ignored by many.
It is people like you who keep such forum alive and the rest of us should almost feel ashamed not contributing more. Mea culpa, I know.
I was wondering; if you know the webmaster it might be of interest to clear out the old rubbish on this site; some entries (not the cultural but more road, hotels, etc.) are completely outdated, misleading or at least irrelevant. Just a thought; maybe David should pull some strings there.
Merci, encore une fois, c'est simplement SUPER!
 

Jurgen

Moderator
Oct 23, 2009
670
106
43
www.chopard.org
2 . Tai Lue Migrations



As a backdrop for my “Tai Lue in North Thailand” stories, I will sketch their migration and fate from Sipsongpanna, their original kingdom (Muang Lue/Jinghong/Chiang Hung), to Lanna where we can meet some of these folks in modern times.

Searching the Internet will present the Tai Lue (called Dai by the Chinese), as an officially recognized ethnic group, living in Xishuangbanna (Sipsongpanna), a Dai Autonomous Prefecture in South China.

This shortcut, however, does not make justice to the long history of these populations. Even so, there is no consensus, nor evidence, about the early origins of the Tai ethnolinguistic group, they are already well documented as settler, in the first Millennium, in modern times Guangxi, Guizhou and Yunnan provinces.

Probable pressures by Mongols and Chinese Imperial armies seem to have split them, pushing some southward and others toward Yunnan. In the twelfth century (1180), the later founded Chiang Rung (Muang Lue), a kingdom located on both shores of the Mekong. In small groups, some others migrated southward toward Tonkin (Vietnam), Laos and Thailand.

In addition to the Jinghong Lue kingdom, in Sipsongpanna, an offspring Lue principality was later established in Chiang Khaen (fourteen century), and, finally, partly moved to Muang Sing (1885) by the ruler at that time, Chao Fa Silinor.

5NK_2579-XL.jpg

The Lue prince Chao Fa Silinor (Sirinor), as portrayed in Muang Sing museum


After years of warfare, invasions, occupation and quarreling the Lue polities were left in weak conditions, squeezed between Burmese and Chinese suzerain; their fate was definitively nailed by the colonial powers occupying the region. In 1896 and 1904, with Franco British agreements, the former Chiang Khaen kingdom was definitively teared to pieces.


Sparse vestiges of the principality can be seen inside modern Muang Sing; the region also still features a majority of Tai Lue villages, with their typical temples and looms under the houses.

5NK_2598-L.jpg

Wall vestiges of Muang Sing’s ancient fortification

5NK_2584-Edit-L.jpg

The Muang Sing museum - a Tai Lue design house, residence of the last “Cao Ban” (city lord)


5NK_2546-Edit-Full-2-L.jpg

Vat Xieng Chai (Wat Luang), Muang Sings oldest and most famous Tai Lue temple


NK7_1621-Edit-L.jpg

Xieng Tung Stupa (1792), a venerated Buddhist Chedi, anterior to the city’s construction, erected on a hill by Nang Kemma, widow of the Chiang Khaen ruler


The French obnubilation with the Mekong, and their obsession to master the big river as a commercial link to China, completely baffled their political vision in the region. Instead of agreeing to a British proposition to keep Chiang Khaen as a buffer state, which might well still exist today, they insisted to split the Tai Lue territories and population between China, Burma and Laos, denying any possible independency to these folks.

_FJC7064-2-Edit-XL.jpg

August Pavie, “the barefoot explorer”, was the mastermind of French colonial policy in Laos. His (last “original”) statue is still erected inside the French embassy in Vientiane.


5NK_2852-Edit-L.jpg

The new (unused) Lao Myanmar Bridge is a modern link between Tai Lue populations of the former Chiang Khaeng principality. These people were separated by the British Scott and the French Pavie. Nowadays, Chiang lap (west side) is in Tachilek province, part of the Shan States.

GTrider story Chiang Kok:
Chiang Kok and the Lao Myanmar Bridge



Forcibly or by own choice, the Tai Lue folks not only populated North Thailand, they are also found in several dwellings around North Laos. Muang Sing, of course, still hosts a number of Tai Lue villages; I also visited some places in Luangnamtha and Bokeo provinces, along Route 3 to Houei Xai, In Xayaboury along Route 2W to Muang Ngeun and even two villages near Luang Prabang, were a king had “invited” them because of their gracious dancing and weaving skills.

5NK_2309-L.jpg

A traditional Tai Lue house with a village pillar in Ban Nam Nguene (Bokeo/Laos)


_CH12169-L.jpg

A group of Tai Lue villagers posing after I had distributed picture from a previous trip - Ban Tha Fa (Bokeo/Laos)




North Thailand, on its side, has not always been populated by ethnic Tai people. Without going back to the Paleolithic period, where Homo erectus left some bones around Lampang, more recent ages had various undocumented population inhabiting the region.


One remaining link to earlier times are Proto-mongoloid representatives, the Mlabri people (Phi Tong Luang) who, in a very small number, still live in Nan Province.

T2JC8242-L.jpg

A Phi Tong Luang (Mlaqbri) dwelling in Nan province


PR2X1693-XL.jpg

Phi Tong Luang (Mlaqbri) mother and child (Nan province)


In the first Millennium, the Lawa had already settled around Lamphun, where, in the year 750, the legendary hermit Suthep, founded Haripunchai city. He invited the Mon princess (Chamadevi/Jam Thewi) as a ruler and opened the doors to Mon people from Lopburi.


While the Mon from Lamphun, Lopburi and Pegu quarreled and fought the Khmer invasions, small Tai groups migrated quietly from the North and East, down the Mekong river and toward the Menam basin. These new dwellers slowly gained importance, formed alliances and became the region’s next leader.

IMG_3863-XL.jpg

Phaya Mang Rai statue in Chaingrai, a city that he founded

The first emerging chieftain, in the Lanna territory, was Phaya Mang Rai (1239). His father ruled Chiang Saen and his mother was a Tai Lue princess from Jinghong (Sipsongpanna). He united the region and founded Chiangrai (1263) and Chiangmai (1296) cities. He was key in setting up the alliance between the region’s dominant kings, Phaya Ngam Mueang of Phayao and Phaya Khun Ruang (King Ram Khamhaeng) of Sukhothai (the “Three Kings”).

H1JC8427-Edit%2009.16.45-L.jpg

Three Kings Monument in Chiang Mai, with statues of King Ngam Muang (Phayao) King Mengrai and King Ramkhamhaeng (Sukhothai )


Lanna lived two hundred years of stability and wealth, notably under king Tilokkarat, an engaged follower of Theravada Buddhism. Finally, corruption and decadence gangrened the country, leaving the doors open to the Burmese who took it over without effort (1558). Their occupation not only covered Chiangmai (Chiangrai) and Payao, but also Nan, the other Important principality in the region.


The following two hundred years saw turmoil, internal warfare, migrations and massive deportations, letting the territory completely exsanguinate. When the Burmese finally also lost their grip, it was time for king Kawila (from Lampang) to rise as the new Chiangmai ruler (1775).

H1JC8446-Edit-Full-2-XL.jpg

Statue of Price Kawila at his monument park in Chiangmai


With Siam’s support (Rama I), Chiangmai (Kawila) and Nan armies (Sumonthewarat and Anantaworaritthidet) launched several campaigns (1804, 1806, 1812,1853, 1856) toward the North, subduing the Shan, Yong, Khoen and Lue states (Chiang khaen and Sipsongpanna). The objectives of these attacks were massive hoardings of war prisoners and volunteers being transferred to repopulate the whole Lanna.

DSC_7998-Full-2-XL.jpg

A series of information panels, sometimes quoting “Cultural heritage of Tai Lue textiles from Soangsak Prangwatanakun” are displayed in Lue Lai Kham museum (Sri Donchai/Chiangkhong)


The final regional reshaping came with the French colonial pressure (Pak Nam incident) allowing them to annex all Lanna’s vassals on the Mekong’s East rim. After negotiations, the British conceded them Muang Sing, while Burma kept all Tai states on the West Bank and China consolidated its grip on Sipsongpanna.

The regional reshuffling fostered more migrations and a lot more people left their original “muangs”, after 1975, and Mao Tse Tung occupation of Yunnan.


For additional information about the Tai Lue integration in North Thailand, a list of specific Tai Lue villages and some background bibliography, refer to part 1, chapter 1 “Introduction.
 

Oddvar

Ol'Timer
Mar 18, 2013
441
259
63
Thanks again for an amazing report. I've noticed when riding in the Xiengkok-Muang Long-Muang Sing area that something is different from the rest of Bokeo.
Other fellow riders say the same. Thanks Jurgen, now i get it.;)

Screenshot 2020-12-05_18-14-45-723.png
 

Jurgen

Moderator
Oct 23, 2009
670
106
43
www.chopard.org
3 . Lue Lai Kham Museum (Tai Lue)



As strong as the blend might be, a pit stop for a black coffee is not always just another wake-up call; at times, the attraction is a cosy environment, an amiable service or a great view. But there might even be more to it, for instance, an instructive cultural experience.

This can all be enjoyed at “Lue Lai Kham”, a private museum along Route 1020, some twenty kilometers south of Chiangkong, in the Tai Lue village of Sri Donchai.

F1XT2659-Edit-L.jpg

View from the museum’s coffee shop balcony



This Tai Lue museum, brainchild of Khun (Mr) Suriya Wongchai, a native of the village, is installed in his family propriety, a large traditional house, slightly adapted to serve the purpose. The exhibition’s location includes a coffee shop with a large balcony and a delightful view over rice fields and, as a backdrop, the Thailand highland mountains bordering Laos.

5NK_3832-Edit-L.jpg

Gorgeous rice fields view from the balcony with a mountain range backdrop



DSC_8035-Edit-L.jpg

“Lue Lai Kham” coffeeshop rear view



DSC_8037-L.jpg

“Lue Lai Kham” museum cum cafe offering drinks, snacks and cakes



Khun (Mr) Suriya Wongchai has been collecting Tai Lue textiles and costumes since a long time; he first displayed his acquisitions in a place in Chiangkhong’s walking street and, finally, made it permanently available to the public in a dedicated building.

T2JC3317-Edit-XL.jpg

Khun (Mr) Suriya Wongchai


DSC_8021-Edit-L.jpg

Mother Wanrak Wongchai was her son’s main inspiration


The adapted familial house’s ground-floor displays a series of information panels, mostly excerpts of the book “The Cultural Heritage of Tai Lue Textiles” by Soangsak Prangwatanakun (Chiang Mai University). It features an instructive and pleasant walk through pages of a rare publication. It is an essential information source about the Tai Lue history, visualized through textiles and handicraft objects.

_FJC8882-L.jpg

An information panel displayed in the museum


The Tai Lue residents of “Sri Donchai” village, who, amazingly, mostly all wear the same “Wongchai“ surname, migrated during the reign of Rama V, in the late 19th century (history narrated on a displayed panel).

_FJC8883-XL.jpg

Sri Donchai’s history narrated on a panel


IMG_9813-L.jpg

“Cultural Heritage of Tai Lue Textiles”
Paperback – January 1, 2008 by Soangsak Prangwatanakun
A comprehensive reference book




With its notoriety and Khun Suriya’s efforts to promote handmade textiles, Lue Lai Kham museum, is an important contribution to keeping ancestral skills alive. Weavings, produced in looms under private houses, in Sri Donchai, provide additional incomes to local families.


The, all wooden, splendid upper floor, of this traditional Tai Lue house displays original objects, particularly a valuable textile collection and some other artifacts. Rare items are kept in glass cabinets but most other pieces are openly displayed, sometimes on mannequins, to allow the most enjoyable experience.

_FJC8737-L.jpg

Khun Suriya in his museum


_FJC8750-L.jpg

The museum’s upper floor


DSC_8011-Edit-L.jpg

Some cloth are displayed on mannequins


DSC_8015-Edit-XL.jpg

A woman Tai Lue dress


Lue%20uniform-1-XL.jpg

Tai Lue ceremonial man dress


DSC_8010-L.jpg

A traditional Tai Lue bedroom is displayed in the museum


DSC_8026-Edit-L.jpg

This operational weaving loom is used by Mother Wanrak Wongchai



At times, Lue Lai Kham, becomes a living museum with special events organized at the premisses. These manifestation offer privileged moments to get an insight in Tai Lue customs and to make acquaintance with locals, usually wearing their traditional clothing, a rare opportunity in modern times.

_CH20317-Edit-Edit-L.jpg

The pre-opening ceremony, in February 2015, already featured a show with pageants in costumes and traditional dance performances


_CH20229-Edit-L.jpg

Pre-opening show, Tai Lue ladies wearing their traditional headset


_FJC8890-Edit-L.jpg

Traditional dance and music performance


_CH20276-L.jpg

A bird dance



The official Lue Lai Kham inauguration, with a ceremonial blessing by monks of What Tha Kham Sri Donchai, was organized on November 13th of 2015. It was an absolutely captivating venue, all along the day, with insights in various Tai Lue customs.

F1XT2515-L.jpg

Symbolic monks’ morning alms walk, along Lue Lai Kham bamboo bridge



5NK_3805-L.jpg

Morning alms chanting, in from of Lue Lai Kham museum


F1XT2603-L.jpg

Blessing ceremony for Khun Suriya and his mother


F1XT2806-L.jpg

Visitors, in Tai Lue costumes, took the opportunity to have their pictures taken along Lue Lai Kham’s bamboo bridge


F1XT2706-L.jpg

Residents of Sri Donchai village happily pose for pictures


5NK_3811-Edit-L.jpg

Even kids wear full Tail Lue costumes




5NK_4067-L.jpg

The evening’s highlight was the ribbon-cutting ceremony and the official opening of Lue Lai Kham Museum.


5NK_3933-L.jpg

Khun Suriya with friends attending the ceremony in Tai Lue dresses



F1XT2898-L.jpg

On stage Tai Lue costume presentation


F1XT2722-L.jpg

A lady singing and playing traditional Lue music on stage


F1XT2779-Edit-XL.jpg

Fai Kuntawong, in Tai Lue dress, at the Lue Lai Kham opening ceremony


F1XT3039-L.jpg

Evening on stage dance performances



Another venue was organized on Lue Lai Kham premises on November 9th, 2018. I was a preliminary to next day’s fashion show in What Tha Kham temple (Sri Donchai). It also provided opportunities to meeting pageants nicely dresses with Tai Lue costumes.

H1JC4133-Edit-L.jpg

Various motives on Tai Lue tube skirts


T2JC2950-Edit-XL.jpg

Portrait of a Tai Lue pageant


T2JC2953-Edit-XL.jpg

Portrait of a Tai Lue pageant



T2JC2961-Edit-XL.jpg

Portrait of a Tai Lue pageant


Live performances, on Lue Lai Kham premises, are seldom as the museum’s main purpose is to display collected textiles and artifacts. Nevertheless, and at times, there might be interesting venues open to visitors. The best way to be informed is through their Facebook page, to be liked and followed:
ลื้อลายคำ Lue Lai Kham

In any case, a visit to the museum, with a relaxing coffee stop, will provide an instructive overview and a good background about Tai Lue culture. Even in our information age, with everything apparently available through Google, being able to see the real things is a blessing and it is worth to cheer people dedicated to collect valuable testimonials and make them available to the public.



References:

Cultural Heritage of Tai Lue Textiles Paperback – January 1, 2008
by Soangsak Prangwatanakun (Author)



GTrider published post:
https://www.gt-rider.com/se-asia-motorcycling/threads/chiang-khong-khamu-new-year-the-tai-lue-lai-kham-museum-a-ck-meander.12390/#post-61512 3 Lue Lai Kham museum


Old wordpress - Jurgen
 

Jurgen

Moderator
Oct 23, 2009
670
106
43
www.chopard.org
4. Hat Bai Sunsets


Google Maps



The Tai Lue village of “Hat Bai” (Chiang Khong District) (1) is not located along a beaten track. Since Route 1290 (“Paradise Road”) completed renovation, travelers between Chiangkhong and Chiang Saen rarely meander along the Mekong’s rim, favoring the hilarious ride over the mountain, through the Hmong village of Kiu Kan.

My first visits to Had Bai, along rural road 4007, were on motorcycles, when I began to ramble around Thailand’s North, and, in particular when I began to check out Tai Lue villages. I discovered that dwellings hosting large ethnic group concentrations often present interesting characteristics, notably by showcasing ancestral traditions, handicrafts, vintage buildings, clothing, food outlets and festivals.

During my first calls, I never paid attention to Had Bai’s geographic particularity, puzzling when pointed out.

Travelers familiar with Chiangkong will have enjoyed gorgeous sunrises, facing the lovely Mekong, with the morning light playing over the eastern Laos hills. If, after this, one drives thirty kilometers north, dinner or an evening drink can be savored, for instance on “Takhong Cafe” terrace. Still facing the Big River, the spectacle is an afternoon golden hour, with colorful sunsets over the flows and the opposite ridge.


JCZ_1325-Edit-Full-2-L.jpg

“Takong restaurant”, is an enchanting observation terrace for twilight over the Mekong while facing Laos
Google Maps



DSC_8390-Edit-L.jpg

Sunset over the Mekong; a rare sight along the Big River’s right side, as its flow is generally in a north-south direction.

This puzzling “disorientation” effect is easily understood by a glance at “GT-Rider’s Golden Triangle map (2)” showing the 180 degrees Mekong’s bending at that location. This phenomena reminds me of the French colonial Mekong expedition’s hesitations.

“Their first disappointment was in Paksan when the ‘Great River’ suddenly headed totally west, till Chiang Khan.” In Luang Prabang they also considered to abandon the Mekong for a more North driven Ou river

(more information in my GT-rider Mekong story [3]):
Mekong cruise to Luang Prabang


DSC_8261-Edit-L.jpg

Observing Had Bai’s temple adds to the disorientation; Its East orientation, usual for a Buddhist temple, is confirmed by the sunset behind the building, but seems in contradiction with the Big River flowing behind it.


The name “Hat Bai” is not linked to a former dwelling in Sipsongpanna, as it is often the case for Tail Lue villages. In this case it is associated with a skewed Mekong’s sandy breach ( “skewed harbor / had bai”) a place chosen after the first habitat, located a kilometer downstream, was washed away by a landslide and eroded by the Mekong flows.

A short ramble around Had Bai, a village of about five hundred people, will provide insights into the inhabitants’ contemporary lifestyle, which, obviously has adapted to modern times, particularly in terms of modifications to traditional buildings.


The sala, next to the temple, displays recent mural paintings featuring Tai Lue activities, particularly the production of cotton threads and weavings.

JCZ_1364-XL.jpg

Preparing cotton threads - modern mural painting


The symbolic village center is marked by the town pillar (lak muang), an important community shrine, rooted in ancient practices and believes.


JCZ_1370-Edit-L.jpg

The five poles marking the town pillar


Observing traditional Tai Lue constructions, on stilts, becomes difficult; many habitations are rebuilt or modified for modern convenience. They are also cluttered along narrow lanes and separated by walls, keeping their privacy, but difficult to look at for visitors.

A Tai Lue wooden house is showcased, next to the river, to allow passerby to admire and enjoy an important piece of these folks heritage. High on stilts it features the usual balconies and the unique staircase.


JCZ_1376-Pano-L.jpg

A wooden house on display.


Tai Lue people are known for their weaving skills and for keeping this craft alive in many villages. This is the case for Had Bai were looms are still found under many houses. In addition to maintaining the tradition in existence, this occupation produces pieces of clothing and textiles, to be used or sold for an additional income.

JCZ_1334-L.jpg

A weaving loom kept under a house


In community shops, local women produce and sell garments. For convenience, I often visited a place right along the Mekong’s rim. It has a series of looms and a shop trading local handicraft pieces.
Google Maps


NK7_4784-Edit-L.jpg

A women weaving an artwork


NK7_4798-Edit-L.jpg

Another Tai Lue woman working on her loom. Over the years, she arguably became my most photographed weaver :)


Craft knowledge, skills, concentration and time are essential ingredients to produce valuable artworks. These assets become less frequent in younger generations, and, as economic pressure is higher, handwoven items might become limited collector pieces.

_CH23028-Modifier-Edit-XL.jpg

A skilled woman at work


Originally, Hat Bai dwellers’ ancestors lived in Muang Ou, a village in Sipsongpanna, but, before crossing the Mekong to their present location, they migrated back and forth to Thailand (Chiangmai) and Laos (Luang Prabang) before spending some time in Ban Nam Kung (Ton Phung district/ Bo Keo ), just opposite of nowadays village. Their textile designs bear similarities with the products of their former residences and weaving scholars can find clues about origins and migrations by studying fabric patterns and knitting methods.

For casual visitors this might be overwhelming knowledges, unnecessary to enjoy the intriguing designs of these pieces of handicraft.

In Had Bai, the favorite colors for “pha sin” (woman sarong) are green, black or indigo for the top with, usually, three middle rows decorated with colorful geometric lozenges.

As an average, it takes about three days to produce one of these pieces of art which are sold at a very reasonable price and can be bought in the village directly from a producers’ association shop.

NK7_4780-L.jpg

Women sarongs (pha sin)


NK7_6901-L.jpg

Complete dress with typical Tai Lue short jackets


Handicraft worker provide opportunities to make photographic portraits. The Lue are gentle people, with good mood, who generally do not mind to be photographed.


_CH23115-Edit-XL.jpg

An experienced Tai Lue weaver


_CH23105-Edit-XL.jpg

Shy but friendly people


_CH23037-Edit-XL.jpg

Thoughtful, with a smile


_CH23092-Edit-XL.jpg

My most photographed weaver (picture of the year 2014)


JCZ_1347-Edit-XL.jpg

Casual encounter in January 2021. Seven years later, she still owns the pictures taken in 2014.


After moving to Had Bai, from their former eroded village downstream, the residents built a Tai Lue style temple as a center for their community activities.

IMG_4773-L.jpg

A pictures of the former temple given to me by a Had Bai resident.


Over the years, the building, particularly its roof, needed to be repaired and the temple underwent a total renovation, adding some glitter, but loosing some nostalgia.

DSC_8276-Pano-Edit-L.jpg

Wat Had Bai in its renovated glow.


Festivals bring the local community together; they are usually linked to religious celebrations, on the temple’s compound, and are opportunities to make merit.

One interesting event is the “Salak” ceremony. See details of the 2020 venue by David Unkovich on GT-Rider:
Had Bai Salak 20

I have participated to this celebration some years ago, it is a very pleasant experience and an opportunity to observe vivid Tai Lue’s traditions.


NK7_4287-L.jpg

Group of villagers meeting at the temple’s entrance


NK7_4231-L.jpg

A thoughtful musician


NK7_4410-Edit-L.jpg

School kids and villagers watching the show


NK7_4437-Edit-L.jpg

Dances performed in front of the temple


NK7_4378-Edit-Edit-L.jpg

Tai Lue sword dance


NK7_4396-Modifier-Edit-L.jpg

Sword dance demonstration by a skilled youngster



Even outside festival times, it is well worth to ramble along the Mekong, on Route 4007, for a stopover at Had Bai. It provides an opportunity to get more acquainted with the Lue culture, to meet gentle folks, have a coffee and marvel at a gorgeous Mekong sunset.



Notes

(1) Hat Bai - the Google transliteration is Haad Bai (for Google map), also sometimes Haat Bai
(2)
GTR-GT-2020-Cover-1-S.png

Link for buying the GTrider map


(3) see: GT-Rider cruise Houai Xai to Lung Prabang

In their frenzy to connect Cochinchina with the ‘Celestial Empire’, the French Mekong explorers were aiming straight north, along the shortest ideal line. Their first disappointment was in Paksan when the ‘Great River’ suddenly headed totally west, till Chiang Khan. Another disappointment expected them later, after Luang Prabang, when the Mekong takes again a totally east-west direction, till after Pak Beng.

During their sojourn in Luang Prabang, the leaders of the French Mekong Commission Exploration, captain de Lagrée and second in command Garnier, had an argument about the group’s itinerary. Lagrée considered the alternative to follow the Ou river, an easy access to Yunnan and to the rim of the “Celestial Empire”, while Garnier never deviated from his Mekong monomania. His point of view prevailed, favoring the scientific and discovery aspects to the detriment of the explorers’ health and even life.

Reference: Travels on the Mekong
Louis de Carné
White Lotus Bangkok 1995
Original publication : Voyage en Indo-Chine et dans l’Empire Chinois, Paris, 1872


IMG_5105-M.jpg
 

DavidFL

Administrator
Staff member
Jan 16, 2003
12,318
2,687
113
67
Chiang Khong
www.thegtrider.com
Super Jurgen. Glad to see the Had Bai history pieced together. I've always been fond of that spot, especially the sunsets @ Takhong,
and often wondered more about the history. Fantastic. Many thanks for putting it all together. The history of the Tai Lue migrations from Sipsongpanna to Thailand over the centuries is a fabulous story.
Special thanks too, to Jean Baptiste for help translating some Thai documents from Had Bai.
 
Last edited:

DKT Dave

Ol'Timer
Sep 25, 2019
55
57
18
Great stuff once again Jurgen. Thankyou for the amazing research and composition of these articles. A really enjoyable read.
 

King of Jars

Ol'Timer
Feb 27, 2008
83
15
8
63
Nongprue, Cholburi, Thailand
Well, Jürgen did it again and again and again and again.

Reading this epic material, intercepted with more than fantastic photos - latter being definitely an art on its own - makes you wonder, if you really want to get there afterwards. The write-up and the photos are so much more than most travellers would come across if going there on their own ....

A heartfelt Thank You, ou en français merci mille fois et merci bien pour ces cadeaux photographiques et les lignes d'une qualité impeccable.

Need to catch up anytime soon again, in Chiang Mai, en route en Indochine or in leisurely Nong Khai les bains!
 

Guzzibs

Member
Jul 20, 2018
21
26
13
Very interesting and informative Jurgen. I have meandered along the river in this area but this throws open the fascinating history of the area and its people so a revisit is necessary. Your passion for the people is heartwarming indeed. More than just a good riding road. Thank you