3000kms Across The North

[Conemeister]

Gday there GTR crew.
Well another trip done this March/April with only myself, the only one from the SoA crew to make the journey.
Arriving in Chiang Mai on the 23rd and hungover by the 24th (thanks Rod) it was time to drop in at TBB's to inspect and finalize payments on the CBF300 for the run ahead. With the bike released to me that afternoon I took a quick test ride around CM to get the feel of the bike again, being a cruiser rider at home, I just wanted to fit with the bike again.

My journey ahead involves one night in each of these towns and visiting the areas around them over the next fifteen days......
Starting with Pai, then on to MHS, Mae Sariang, Mae Sot, Historical Sukhothai, Lampang, Nan, Phitsanulok, Chum Phae, Chiang Khan, Uttaradit, Lampang again, Phayao and on to Chiang Mai (in pissing rain)

A full report and pics to come

Sunday 25th March.....breakfast done and bike loaded up I get guided out of town by Rod down the 108 heading for the 1269 turnoff. Rod splits off for Lampang and I am on my way heading for Pai via Samoeng and Hwy 1349 to Ban Wat Chan and the 1265 on to Pai.......What an amazing road.
Having ridden the opposite loop twice before, I wanted to experience different roads to get me there and thanks to GTR's info I get to travel the amazing sweeps of these three roads.

Monday 26 March
After a big night listening to some great blues musicians at Mojo Bar and some good sleep at Yotaki Guesthouse (formerly Baan Suan Rim Pai) this day begins with a search for a decent breakfast.
Well I didn't find it.....
Funny thing I noted about Pai this visit was just how quiet it was, not many ferals in town, all the bars and cafes where down on numbers, Yellow Sun was empty, more staff than punters.

Batteries charged, I mount the TomTom Bandit to the bike for todays run to MHS via the standard 1095 but first a stop to the Temple on the Hill, that's a big statue up there but certainly nothing special about the area around it, a few pics and back to the bike, the curves of the 1095 lay ahead. And they are as good as ever, twists, switchbacks, a dream run with little traffic.

The customary two stops for the vistas and then continue down the windys to Su Thong Pae Bamboo Bridge. The heat of the day certainly knocked me around a bit so was glad to get some water from the local Monk at the temple and some info on the area. Unfortunately that morning there was 200 young monks doing alms across the bridge, a great photo opportunity missed...bugger.

Back to the bike for the last part of the days ride to MHS Town and straight to Piya Guesthouse to arrange a room, the manager is a lovely girl and gives me a pensioner discount on the price.
Settled in and showered, I take a quick ride up to the Certificate Center Coffee Shop to grab an iced coffee, get the Certificate and leave a SoA Sticker on the door, then drop in to Crossroads for a lemonade or two.

MHS is also running a bit low on tourists, the most I met was down by the lake and at Piya. I pickup a couple of 1864 Tees from artist Brian Un and with Smirnoffs in hand it's off for an early night.

Tuesday 27 March

Breakfast at Piya then pack the bike and visit Wat Phrathat,

the shit smoke haze ruining most of the view so shortly I was back onto Hwy 108.

A stop for a coffee at Mae La Noi opposite the Tourist Service Centre and a great chat with the owners then travelling on to The Riverside at Mae Sariang for the rest of the day.

Again another quiet empty town, a dozen or so tourists around and empty hotels, cafes and bars, the 7Eleven was making a fortune out of me, anyway a few Chang travellers to take back to the pool party with no people next door. A simple dinner at the Wooden House and a stroll to a local bar, closed like so many others, ah well 2 Smirnoffs on the balcony and bed.

Wednesday 28 March

Awake early today for the 200kms to Mae Sot, breakfast done and a few photos around town then it's on to Hwy 105. A nice piece of road with just as many twisties as the MHS loop it seemed along the run down to Mae Song where the 1267 splits off, that Moei River looked inviting too.

The Mae La Refugee Village set in the mountains to the right of was me was amazing, thousands of wooden shacks, all atop of each other rising from the roadside fence-line and up into the hills, and spanning several kilometres along the highway edge. managed some video of it on the Bandit.
Another iced coffee break at Nanglen Coffee House further down the hwy at Mae Ramat and then push on for Mae Sot and the Border Gate.

I met a Thai man and his wife and child over a short lunch-stop in Mae Song and whilst having a beer at the Rim Moei border restaurant opposite Immigration, here he was again, just came to Mae Sot for some shopping he said.
A walk around and over to the Westernmost Sign where a couple of soldiers, machine-guns in hand guard the rivers edge, still no western tourists to be seen.

After my visit to the border it was time to find my hotel, Wantana Village Resort, some 15kms back to the east, big gardens and a pool with bungalows dotted around......very quiet indeed, a couple of Smirnoffs on the patio..... again.

Thursday 29 March

Woken up today by some loud music coming from the property next door......dush dush out here!!!......It was followed up by rapid gunfire for a few minutes. Turns out there is an army base next door.
Breakfast at Wantana was basic, glad I brought the Vegemite.
All geared up I took another run to the border and watched all the depressed travellers crossing by longtail ferry, rather sad. After a hot coffee to cheer me up I hit the road again bound for Tak.

Hwy 12 is a nice wide road with brand new tarmac, big beautiful sweepers winding up and down the mountain range, then it turns to shit. Standard Thai road construction for 20 kilometres, I am sure it will be great when finished.
My mobile phone has a magnetic base and sticks to the flat of the fuel tank quite well, I am using Maps on the phone to direct me when getting closer to the big towns, honestly, don't rely on it.
I pull up for an iced coffee at what looks like a beer garden in Tak.....Krua Kaset, two ladies come over to meet me and take my order, a few laughs and the use of Translate on the phone help the coffee go down, eventually I get the directions for Sukhothai.

Seems I went around the block to come out back on the same highway.....onward and upward.
The road dulls out from here to straight and flat where I turn off for the Historical Township.

Agoda gets me to Vieng Tawan Guesthouse and a welcoming smile, with the dust cleaned off I grab a beer and hit the pool. Shit, no shade and it's full of westerners, you'd think I'd have some people to speak with.....nope, no one chatted.
The day was wearing out and I was hungry, so on the bike and into town for a mixed juice where I met three beautiful Italian girls, 'comestai senore'. All three were doctors, we chatted for a while.....did I mention my sore back...lol.
Grabbing my camera gear I went to visit the park and take in the history, a pretty interesting place standind in 600 years of history, but you do need a guide. After strolling around for a while my three bellas go riding past on their pushbikes, a wave and their gone.

Back to the hotel to freshen up before dinner, the map I have recommends several cafes in town so off I go for a walk. Checking the menu out front, along come the girls and we all sit down for a beer and a meal and then 'ciao'......bugger, only Smirnoffs to walk back with.

Friday 30 March

With bike repacked it's off to get breakfast, sitting down to a coffee and omelette I am soon joined by two of the girls and chat about their next destination at Ayutthaya. With a full tank, I start my 200km run for Lampang heading up the 1113, 1327, 1048 and eventually Hwy 1 making town by early afternoon. I put out an emergency call where the brother-in-law Rod guides me to his house to crash over for the night.
Meeting up with a few expats down at The Riverside Restaurant beside the Wang River, we polish off 3-4 longnecks each, then on to Mao Deep and then a club. Time to go.

Saturday 31 March

Rod and I decide to ride up to Nan, the road today covers 227kms along the 1023 to Pa Maet and then Hwy 101. Amazon Coffee and PTT become common place for the rest of my journey from here on.

I pointed out to Rod that I wanted to take Route 1216 across Khun Sathan to Na Noi (info from GTR thanks). What a great road, very narrow and windy right across the mountain range, I was hoping to get a decent pic of the road behind to show to the crew at home.....should have been here boys.

We get hit by rain from Na Noi, so it's a wet ride along the 1026 and 101 to Nan for the night. With digs for 500bht and an easy stroll to Nan Steak House for dinner and drinks with some old friends to finish off the night.

Sunday 1 April

Today is April Fools Day.....In my original plan I intended to ride from Sukhothai to Chum Phae and then come back across the north following the Mekong, my diversion for Lampang altered that.
So leaving Nan on pre-travelled roads (101) I seperated from Rod at Phrae where I continued on down Hwy 11 turning off for Sirikit Dam and a lunch break.

Checking out the map I opted to take the 1214 and roads to get me to Na Haeo to camp out at the resort. Great plans never come true, as I get further into the mountain roads the view ahead becomes darker as a tropical storm hits and I am forced to pull up under a shed to wait out the sideways rain and wind. A lady from the house attached comes out to help and offer me better shelter, so with her and the dogs we wait out the storm. 40 minutes pass while I contemplate the next move.

With the bike wiped down, I decide to head for Phitsanoluk down the 1246 and grab a hotel for the night.....luxury tonight at Topland Hotel at $45 and after a walk to Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat finishing up at a nearby Thai bar near the railway line.

Monday2 April

A latte for breakfast and it's off to Chum Phae.

Todays ride is along Route 12, a beautiful wide road allowing me to relax thru the big wide sweepers and take in some of the views ......heading for Khaem Son and the temples at Wat Prathat Phasornkaew....it looked good in the travel brochure. The road to the temples is not well marked, so a little guesswork eventually gets me there.
Well set up with several buildings all with their own uniqueness, unfortunately all under wraps while they renovate.....spewing, as I really wanted to get a good pic of the five seated buddhas. The mosaics at one temple were amazing, someones got a lot of time on his/her hands.

Back to the hwy the easy way, I continue on for Chum Phae travelling thru some great forest roads at Nong Khwai where I come across this sign

don't see many of those around home.

Arriving in Chum Phae mid afternoon, I grab an iced coffee and make a booking at Suphan Grand Royal Hotel....$14 for the night. Sounds flash but it's just a cheap motel with karaoke bar.

A ride into the market area and a search for the Musikcafe, it was closed, however a good cafe/bar was next door where I got info on The Batcave at Phu Pha Man. After a couple of beers with the owners, now SoA members, I rode the 30kms to see the bats at dusk.

Cool location with small food stalls for the locals turning up by the car load. With the sun setting out came the bats, hundreds at first, then thousands and by the end, using a 'Trumpism' there were Billions.

All finished it was back to the cafe for some dinner and more beer and conversation.....something that had been lacking for a few days. Back to the hotel with Smirnoffs and suss out the Karaoke....mmmm

Tuesday 3 April

Woken by the sound of music.....loud music, I walk over to the breakfast area, coffee or tea and order up some eggs....never any bacon on these menus.
Looking over the fence I see where the noise was coming from. A lake behind the hotel filled with people standing on what ever could float, rafts with long bamboo poles and nets.....it was a fishing competition and they were having a fun time.
On the road again it's back down Route 12 and turn on to Hwy 211 heading to Chiang Khan 183 kms away. A good road, pretty standard all the way, a smoko at Loei and within 3 hrs I am pulling up for the day.

Market Street .....empty as

I get a discount on my room......'normally 1000 but you can have for 800'.....I booked for two nights.
Up to Chiang Khan Hill Resort for a look/see and an iced coffee then back to town. I was expecting a few more people to turn up in town, especially around market time, but the place was deserted, not many westerners and not much of anyone else. So beer and snacks at Slinks Pizza, got great service too being the only customer.
I left town the next day, refund in hand.

Wednesday 4 April

Breakfast and go.....270 kms ahead
Fuelled up I head along the 2195 for Tha Li. The road is a bit broken up still, thought they would have fixed it by now after riding it 2 years back.

I visit the new Border Gate then run down the 2013 to Dan Sai and join up with the 1143 and back along the 1244. The roads looked familiar, then I pass the house and shed I had sheltered at 3 days back....damn that rain.

Arriving in Uttaradit I headed for The Friday Hotel, however I chose The Seeharaj as it had a pool. Nice big room at a good price with breakfast. Out for some street food for dinner and a Smirnoff stroll around the area then back to my room just as a massive electrical storm hits the town....great light show.

Thursday 5 April

Coffee time at Amazon and fuel up.

Todays run is back to Lampang but first a bit of culture. Heading the 50kms south for Si Satchanalai along the 102 and 101 eventually pulling up at the Historical Park. A few bottles of water and of for the walk to the various temples on the site. Good signage here to advise of each temples history unlike Sukhothai. Humidity is high here, so glad to get back on the bike for the breeze.

Back thru Uttaradit and on to Den Chai and Wat Phra That Suthon Mongkhon Khiri for another visit. Here two years ago with the SoA crew this elephant come chicken statue was under construction, looked great in the plans. Now completed it is another example of gaudy art installations at thai temples.

Back on to Route 11 it's pick up the pace and ride on for Lampang and another crash-over at Rods. A few beers at the Riverside and a chilled evening at Mao Deep to finish up the day.

Friday 6 April

Waiting for Rod to return from English classes at the school, I book a couple of rooms at The Gateway Hotel in Phayao at $24 each.
Heading up Hwy 2 with a stop for iced coffee we make the lakeside by mid-afternoon. With bikes parked under the Hotel and large rooms on the tenth floor, I take in the views and then head for the 4th floor pool.

It's nearly 5pm.....beer time. We walk back down to the lake and sit down at the Meeting Point and chat with a local watching the world go by. Not many western tourists around, I watch as a storm starts brewing over the mountains across the lake. A few rumbles and a crack of lightning then down comes the rain. So another order of beer comes to the table. Eventually calmed down we head for a restaurant/bar in Thakwan Road and some dinner and music. Down comes the rain again, flooding the streets and closing the bar, we are moved next door to the protection of the PM Pub. I put in a call to the hotel and we are picked up by the courtesy car.....just a bit wet.

Saturday 7 April

With plans to meet some friends in Chiang Mai at the Cricket Sixes Final around 12pm we get under way back down Hwy 120 as the rain hits again. Saturated thru we stop for fuel and hot coffee at PTT Amazon 7Eleven....plastic raincoats...woohoo.

Now bright green and bright orange we turn on to Hwy 118 for the slow run to CM. The rain stops and the roads dry up as we head into Tapae Gate and Top North, home for the next few days. Seems the rain washed out the cricket game, so we met our friends at the UN Irish Bar and stayed for dinner and some AFL/NRL.

Sunday 8 April

My last day with the CBF300. I want to head up to Doi Inthanon, a goal I wanted to achieve back in 2016 with the SoA crew.....they made it, I had to fly home for my ex-wifes funeral.

Rod heads back to Lampang and I follow Google Maps on the goat trail to hell along the 1013 which directs me 50 kms away from the temples.

Lost somewhere up there these three little guys go strolling past heading off to another work site perhaps. At the lookout, some other travellers lost like me, consult to find the right road to the temples.

Now heading in the right direction I need some fuel, finding a bowser that doesn't accept the new plastic notes, some young thai help me out with an exchange of notes.

Finally at the temples I take in the views thru the smoke filled clouds of the valley below. The buildings are magnificent, glad they have escalators.
Onward and upward I finally get to stand at The Highest Point in Thailand then the higher spot..... goal achieved.

Now the fast way back to CM via the 1009 and 108 and reluctantly return the bike to Tony's Big Bikes.....thanks guys for another great adventure.

Monday 9 April

Last day in Chiang Mai, what to do.....Doi Suthep?
Hired a scooter for the run up the mountain.....what a different feel riding that toy. Traffic cops pull me up for a licence check on the 1004....RACV International Licence works here, some tourist riders not so lucky.
Another great tourist spot in Chiang Mai visited....now time for a beer by the pool.

A total of 3200+ kms over 15 days and 15 towns plus surrounds, powered by PTT, Amazon, 7Eleven, Chang, Smirnoff Ice and LM Blues.
My body needs some R&R, tomorrow is beach time at AoNang/Krabi for the next six nights.....cheers.

 

[GTR-Admin]

We are all looking forward to the unfolding story of the 3,000 km epic - keep it coming!

 

[DavidFL]

Yeehar all on a CBF300. You little beauty.
Bring it on.

 

[Conemeister]

Updated with more info

 

[Conemeister]

Report complete, grab yourself a beer or 2.....it's a long read.

 

[GTR-Admin]

Well, that was certainly worth the buildup, and the suspense... First, thanks very much from GT-R for taking the time and trouble to post the trip details and photographic highlights of the ride. We know how long it takes to prepare and post these things, and are deeply appreciative of the efforts and contributions that you and others make to GT-Rider!

You can rest assured that there will be many - both members and non-members - who will be inspired by the "mostly solo" adventure across the north of Thailand. I've been here over a decade, but there are some places that you got to that I've never been yet! (Note to self) 5555 Well done!

I note with interest that you've found a number of those classic style Thai hotels with pool, music / karaoke and massage, with a waterside setting for sundown beers. To me, that was the most delightful aspect of coming here a decade ago - I absolutely loved that aspect of travelling around. Sitting by a lake or river watching the sun go down, having an ice-cold beer after a long ride - THAT is living life to the full... On my List of Things to Do when I get a "round tuit" is to compile a Topic outlining some of those hotels & places that should not be missed when on a long ride through the north.

 

[DavidFL]

Awesome report - mega thanks.

So a few questions.

1. Is the CB300 up to it - would you do it again on the 300?
2. What road was the best ride?
3. What was the most memorable day & new attraction?

 

[Conemeister]

Thanks Ben, we can only hope that other people who come here will get the information and inspiration I have taken from reading GTR forums to take on these adventures.
The Nasty Hotels Tour could be the next big run....555.
Will have some video to follow when I get to the editing.
Cheers

 

[Conemeister]

Awesome report - mega thanks.

So a few questions.

1. Is the CB300 up to it - would you do it again on the 300?
2. What road was the best ride?
3. What was the most memorable day & new attraction?

Hi there David and thanks for your input on some maps to get me there.
The CBF300 was very capable though did lack some grunt on the up-hill roads. As you might know, this is my third ride on these Hondas and they have performed quite well given the right handling and gearing, I did get her up to 130 trying to keep up with Rods CBR650 on the open highway and she certainly gave a small tour group in Den Chai a run for their money along Hwy 11. The bike handled the roads quite well, and that's due to good maintenance at TBBs.

The best road to ride??? tough call......the big highways were great. The full 1216 is a gem, though a couple of go's at it would be good.
No. 1 would have to be first days ride on 1269 to 1349 and 1265.......the loop is always awesome and seriously the first half of the 105 comes in a close second.....must be something about those curves and twists.

Memorable day.....getting hit by that storm after the visit to Sirikit Dam, absolutely saturated me. And the Batcave at Phu Pha Man National Park, as I went out of my way to get there.

It would have been good to catch you at some point, there was a 1 Litre of Jameson in the backpack the whole trip.
Hope you are enjoying your new life in CK.....the NEW place to go.
Cheers

 

[DavidFL]

Hi there David and thanks for your input on some maps to get me there.
The CBF300 was very capable though did lack some grunt on the up-hill roads. As you might know, this is my third ride on these Hondas and they have performed quite well given the right handling and gearing, I did get her up to 130 trying to keep up with Rods CBR650 on the open highway and she certainly gave a small tour group in Den Chai a run for their money along Hwy 11. The bike handled the roads quite well, and that's due to good maintenance at TBBs.

The best road to ride??? tough call......the big highways were great. The full 1216 is a gem, though a couple of go's at it would be good.
No. 1 would have to be first days ride on 1269 to 1349 and 1265.......the loop is always awesome and seriously the first half of the 105 comes in a close second.....must be something about those curves and twists.

Memorable day.....getting hit by that storm after the visit to Sirikit Dam, absolutely saturated me. And the Batcave at Phu Pha Man National Park, as I went out of my way to get there.

It would have been good to catch you at some point, there was a 1 Litre of Jameson in the backpack the whole trip.
Hope you are enjoying your new life in CK.....the NEW place to go.
Cheers

Yeah R1216 is a beauty that most people don't do, so really glad you did it.
For those who don't know R1216 the Khun Satan road.

Triumphs rendezvous in Phrae

1216, a hidden Pearl in Nan?

The League of Extraordinary Gentlemen Go To Nan

R1216 Khun Satan The Mlabri

I'm bloody sorry about that 1 litre of Jamesons did not reaching an appropriate destination, but I was stuck trying to move into my new premises. It took the changs 10 days to finish their almost satisfactory repairs & I could not leave them alone in the house. Next time it will have to be 2 litres to catch up.55

I'm really pleased to get the feed back from you saying that GTR has been a source of information and inspiration for you to come & ride here so much. Your report is highly appreciated as we know only too well it takes time and effort to post a big trip report. Many thanks & see you next trip.

It was good to see that the Piya has lifted their game too & you can now get a nice breakfast there.

Thanks & cheers
Best regards
David Unk

 

[Moto-Rex]

Great report, plenty of good up to date information for first time riders, or locals planning a trip in the North.

The Wantana Village Resort looks a good place to try out, and a refreshing ale or two is defiantly on the cards at Mao Deep.

Thanks for putting such a great Informative, interesting, and entertaining report together.

Cheers Moto-Rex

 

[Conemeister]

Great report, plenty of good up to date information for first time riders, or locals planning a trip in the North.

The Wantana Village Resort looks a good place to try out, and a refreshing ale or two is defiantly on the cards at Mao Deep.

Thanks for putting such a great Informative, interesting, and entertaining report together.

Cheers Moto-Rex

Cheers Moto-Rex, glad to add information to assist fellow riders to these great roads......the SoA will return, especially for a beer or three.