Pua - Nan - First World Tai Lue Festival and Conference.

[DavidFL]

A couple of weeks ago, a poster in Thai for the First World Tai Lue Festival and Conference popped up in my Facebook news feed.

My interest was immediately piqued, as the Tai Lue are my favourite ethnic group, plus the location was Pua city, home of the Seeds Pub and just off R1148.
R1148 has been a favourite top ride of all bikers for decades, and Seeds Pub is one of the friendliest, cosiest, and happiest music pubs you can go to in the North.
Any excuse for a ride, you might say.

The Tai Lue originate from Sipsongpanna in SW Yunnan in China and first started moving to Thailand, either fleeing wars in China as captured slaves
and moved to Thailand.

Getting info in English on exactly what was going on with this World Tai Lue festival was a challenge, but I thought it was "too good to be true not to go."
It was the First World Tai Lue Festival!

I've been to a couple of local Tai Lue festivals in Chiang Kham and Doi Saket but never heard of a World Tai Lue Festival.

(Chiang Kham - A Tai Lue Festival - 2017)

Organised out of Pua in Nan, I imagined it would be something like the Iu Mien festivals that I have been to there.

(Nan - the 2022 Iu Mien / Yao Festival)

(The 1st Mien / Yao Festival At Chiang Khong For Songkran 2018)

Getaway time from Chiang Khong was midday.
40 km out of Chiang Mai, a stop was necessary to put on the rain gear.
There was torrential rain on either side of Thoeng city, but at least I got to use the newly completed bypass to save a bit of time lumbering through Thoeng city and the traffic buildup.
The last couple of trips, Chiang Kham city has been my nemesis city with heaps of rain, but today I lucked out, and it cleared up entering Chiang Kham city.

The Carrot in Chiang Kham is a GTR favourite point to stop for a break in the air conditioning. Good cheap eats, coffee, and service, plus parking right outside the door.

Feeling hungry, two plates of food were quickly devoured.

A Kai Kataa is a quick 'n easy Viet-style breakfast.

Not satisfied, a spaghetti carbonara followed.

Turning onto the adrenaline ride 1148, the weather gods were smiling.

How good was that & how good is the Magic Mountain 1148 Cafe on a nice day.

Enjoying the views along 1148, arrival time in Pua, to be welcomed by a large World Tai Lue Festival banner.

At least I knew I was in the right town and on the right dates.

In Pua the Sangaroon is the current GTR favourite place to stay at 400 baht, with air conditioning, hot water, and undercover parking.

The MN is the favourite GTR happy hour spot in Pua.
It is a small local mini-mart/liquor shop that also sells mala/BBQ sticks.

They have an interesting range of beverages on sale that you don't normally get in other small towns.

They also have some wonderful, happy local customers who are always super friendly, and the old GTR fellow has struck up many interesting chats with the locals sitting outside chewing on a few BBQ sticks and having an ice-cold beer.

However, asking about the World Tai Lue Festival was another issue - no idea, the young customers said!
Tomorrow is another day...to be continued.

 

[Franz]

Oh I love that 1148 too and all small places and towns on it, was surprised how good the roads north of Nan are since I was there last time years ago.
Unfortunately last time I was in Nan at the boring Music Festival and in the worst time of the year............... Did choke my way back through a smog that made my eyes water and my throat ache. Khai Kataa is also my favourite whenever I am in Udon or Ubon................

 

[DavidFL]

Day 1 in Pua city.

Pua really is a charming little, hilly town that booms in high season, but it gets quiet in low season.
Some gossip says it is now losing out to Bo Klua and Ban Saphan on R1081, the other, East side of Doi Phukha.
Finding a farang brekky was the first challenge for the day.
And the Shanti Cafe delivered the goods on the day.

Highly recommended. Check it out sometime.

(Pua Restaurants)

Shanti Cafe - ชานติ คาเฟ่ · 211 1080, Pua, Pua District, Nan 55120, Thailand

★★★★★ · Cafe

maps.app.goo.gl

Strangely enough, the staff at the Shanti knew nothing about a World Tai Lue festival either!
Perhaps it was just a wild goose chase?
A couple of farang coming out of another coffee shop gave me a tip & soon it was confirmed.
Yes, there is some festival outside the district office, near the hospital & police station.

And outside the amphur a stage & congregation of Tai Lue are slowly gathering.

A market set up but without people?

A young Tai Lue fellow was waiting for something to happen.

A senior gentleman, who appeared to be an official organiser, was able to confirm YES, a big parade starting about 3-4 PM by the lake and tourist information centre. Jackpot, I thought. I knew where that was. 800 metres away. I could handle that.

Being the first World Tai Lue Festival in Pua, organising the start of the parade line-up was amusing.

The important visiting groups were to lead at the front of the parade, but they were nowhere to be seen at the time.

The list of participating groups was impressive.

The leading guest group was from Sipsongpanna, China, the home of the Tai Lue people.

Second was Myanmar.

Laos was # 3.

Thereafter, all the North Thai provinces with Tai Lue communities.

Of note to me was the incredible gentleness and friendly smiles of those participating.

Most people offered smiles & "likes" without requests.

They were only too proud and happy to be part of the event, displaying their culture and traditions.

And I wondered if this calm gentleness is why they were so sought after as war slaves and suffered greatly from warring factions—they were not warring, aggressive people?

The Tai Lue
The Tai Lue people, from SW China (Sipsongpanna), moved during the 18th and 19th centuries in waves to northern Thailand, first due to wars and political upheaval in SW China, and later as captured slaves. victims of Siamese wars with regional rivals.
Tai Lue communities were often targeted for forced resettlement (known as "kha luang" or tribute population) because they were skilled farmers and artisans, and their labour was valuable to rulers.
Once captured, Tai Lue families were resettled in new villages and made to serve as farmers, weavers, builders, or temple labourers.

The Tai Lue were often targets of these raids because:
They were numerous and agriculturally skilled.
Their homelands in Sipsongpanna (southern Yunnan) and northwestern Laos were politically fragmented and vulnerable.
Rulers in Nan, Lampang, and Chiang Rai often led or sanctioned these raids.

Early 19th Century (Rama I to Rama III, ~1782–1851)
Siam’s military campaigns into Luang Prabang, Xieng Khouang, Muang Sing, and Sipsong Panna (Tai Lue homelands) led to widespread deportation of captives.
These included Tai Lue who were resettled in places like Phrae, Nan, Chiang Mai, and even the central plains of Thailand.
These resettlements were typically intended to repopulate depopulated areas, increase tax-paying subjects, and serve as labourers or militia.

Laos King Anouvong Rebellion (1826–1828)
King Anouvong of Vientiane led a failed rebellion against Siamese dominance in 1826–1828.
Siam (under King Rama III) responded with devastating military campaigns, resulting in the destruction of Vientiane.
In retaliation, Siamese forces depopulated vast areas of Laos, forcibly relocating tens of thousands of people to Siam.

The captured villagers came from Sipsongpanna, Muang Sing, Oudom Xai, Luang Namtha, Luang Prabang and Xieng Khouang

Consequently, there are Tai Lue villages, enclaves, all over the North in Nan, Phayao, Phrae, Chiang Rai and Chiang Mai provinces.
Pua and Chiang Kham are probably the two biggest.

Some other notable districts and villages with Tai Lue are

Phrae Tai Lue Settlements:
Rong Kwang: one of the most prominent Tai Lue centers in Phrae
Song: Known for traditional Tai Lue weaving and architecture
Den Chai: Some settlements here trace back to 19th-century relocation policies

Lampang Tai Lue Settlements:
Ban San Don Kaeo, Ko Kha District: Historical Tai Lue migration recorded.
Ban Huai Bong, Ngao District
Tha Khum Ngoen, Ngao District.
Sop Prap District

Phayao Tai Lue Settlements:
Chiang Kham: Largest Tai Lue population in Phayao; cultural and religious center
Phu Sang: Tai Lue villages near the Lao border; strong traditional practices
Mae Chai: Some settlements, mixed with other Tai ethnic groups.
Ban Yuan Tai / Ban Yuan Nuea – Phayao Province: These villages are inhabited by Tai Lue whose ancestors came from Luang Prabang or Sipsongpanna. Oral history and temple records mention that they were forcibly relocated around 1804 after regional conflicts involving Siam and Lao territories.

Chiang Rai Tai Lue Settlements:
Chiang Khong, Phan, and Thoeng
Ban Hat Bai – Chiang Khong District: One of the best-known Tai Lue villages along the Mekong River. Tai Lue ancestors were brought here from Muang Yong and Muang Sing during the late 1700s–early 1800s.
Chiang Khong city: During the 1800s, Chiang Khong was a strategic frontier town; the local ruler captured and moved Tai Lue people across the Mekong for military and economic reasons.
Sri Dornchai: south of Chiang Khong city. The Lue Lai Kham Museum.
Ban Chom Chan – Wiang Kaen District: Oral histories suggest Tai Lue migrants came here from Sipsongpanna during Qing military campaigns in the 19th century.

Nan Tai Lue Settlements:
Pua, Bo Kluea, and Tha Wang Pha.
Ban Nong Bua: the most famous Tai Lue village in Nan.
A poorer (?) villages in the parade got to show traditional lifestyle activities.

PM 2.5 plus forest fire warnings were also featured.

Dancers for fitness, health, and happiness recommendations.

The belle of the parade.