Riding The Yom River & R1091


Staff member
Jan 16, 2003
Chiang Khong
Riding the Yom continued - R1120 Chiang Muan to Song.

South from Chiang Muan R1120 is a fantastic rolling road through the hills, that twist and turns as it crosses the district & provincial borders between Chiang Muan & Sa Iab districts, Sa Iab & Song districts, going from Phayao to Phrae provinces. Riding R1120 really is right up there with any of the top rides in the North, and it has become one of my favourite rides in the North, going from Chiang Khong to Phrae. The route numbers being R1020 / 1021 to Chiang Kham, then R1148 onto R1179 to Pong & 1091 to Chiang Muan then R1120 to R1154 / 103 / 101 to Phrae. Check it out sometime for a magic ride.

In July 2020, with Youngie coming back from the GTR Dinner in Wiang Sa we stopped off at the famous Lilit Pra Lor Park, site of the tragic lovers demise.

For more info see

On the visit with Youngie we visited the museum; where I was extremely impressed with a painting, such that I wanted to know who the artist was, and if there possibly was a souvenir T-shirt with it screen printed?

No T-shirt was the answer, but the artist just lives up the road on R1120.
Youngie & I were given a suggested location which failed dramatically, but with more frequent rides up & down the 1120 the last few months I'd worked out the location with some intense scouring of google maps & nailed the place. So I thought. BUT every time I went past the gate was closed. Nobody home!


And so it was Dave DKT & I heading home from another Phrae excursion we rode past the gate, and.....it was open!!
A quick U-turn and we rode into the ranch.


The cops came out, followed by a scrawny little guy wearing a nice hat....oops?
Sawatdee krap, who are you, want do you want?
Oh, Oh, we just come to look for the artist & see his paintings.
Yeah that's him. Come on over & inside.
Too easy & what a great little fun welcome it was.
Come join us.
I'm the head of the Song police station & this is our first visit here to see Ajarn.
Please join us for lunch and an inspection first.
It felt like we had hit the jackpot and / or first prize in the lottery.

A grand tour of the delightful premises in the forest on the bank of the small stream followed.

Than Tat Mok Art Garden is the name of the place & the fabulous artist is Nakorn Bunyasai (?)

He has a fabulous bubbly personality & provided us with an excellent tour of his gallery.


The gallery is located in two adjoining open-air wooden buildings, divided into sections, each with different art theme.



An interesting bed with a clock for a power nap.





Asked why he didn't need an air-con gallery to look after his paintings, how did they survive in the wet season?
He replied that he was blessed and had good luck, karma. If he was bad it would not work. If & when he died they would not last.




The gallery inspection over an official signing of the guestbook was required.


TQ Ajarn Nakorn Bunyasai for a fantastic tour & day.

And then the highlight of the day. An amazing sketch by the master himself, plus lunch with the cops & Ajarn.

One of Ajarn Nakorn Bunyasai incredible talents is drawing with both hands.
It was spellbinding to watch him in action.

Lunch with the guys

The lunch was simple & fun.
Over lunch we got the story: the head of the Song police was new in his job, having been recently transferred from Muang Long.
This was his first visit & inspection of the Art Gallery, although he knew Ajarn from before.
As was his custom he brought lunch for Nakorn Bunyasai, but when the two silly farang turned up they got invited to join in & so basically ate the Ajarn's lunch, as he was busy talking most of the time & missed out.
You gotta love Thailand & the super friendly people. Their nam jai rocks.
So the old GTR fellah needs to return soon & return the lunch favour. Something special from the Sakthong may do the trick....

Than Tat Mok Art Garden Facebook

Google Maps 18°35'37.2"N 100°12'59.9"E

The place & Ajarn are both special. Check it out sometime, if the gate is open.

But what about that painting & possible T-shirt design?
Nah, that is definitely not my painting or style. I don't do stuff like that.
It is someone else, I don't know who...
Oh well the wrong artist........the hunt goes on.

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Oct 23, 2009
Loved this adventures along a, not so often depicted, river in a region populated with many Tai Lue folks. Really worth to take some time, when rambling along Route 1091, to appreciate these highlighted hidden gems. Thank you David for mapping this region :)