Chiang Khong – Vientiane return -Kopchaideu 25th Anniversary party.

DavidFL

0
Staff member
Subscribed
Jan 16, 2003
14,790
5,609
113
70
Chiang Khong
www.thegtrider.com
Chiang Khong – Vientiane return -Kopchaideu 25th Anniversary party.

1690452375870.jpeg


This trip was a slow demanding ride for me with the annoying physical complaint of my right hand getting serious pins and needles to go off to sleep. Carpal tunnel syndrome you might say, but 3 doctors have examined me & nope, its not carpal tunnel. It has become a mystery & I’m presently stuck in Chiang Mai seeing doctors to get the definitive diagnosis & source of the problem. A pinched nerve in the spine has also been considered by so far the opinion it is not that. The latest theory is that it is a nerve - radial / median / ulnar – issue only that needs to be nailed down. Fingers crossed because at the moment I’m snookered, and unable to ride more than 50 kms at a time, without needing a break to rest my arm!

Starting from Chiang Khong, I had nights in Chiang Mai, Phrae, Loei and Nong Khai before hitting Vientiane city for the 25th anniversary Kopchaideu party.
On the way down I was able to ride 80 kms at a time, before I needed a break, however on the return I was only capable of 40 kms stretches = the return trip from Vientiane was a nightmare.
Then on the last day riding Nong Khai – Loei was a ride through hell.
1. Both my front forks blew seals & blew oil out everywhere.
2. A got a piece of steel in the balding rear tyre, that was the last planned trip with that tyre.
3. My rear shock was also leaking again.
So combined with my dodgy arm it was a totally torturous ride.

In the end I had to call it quits & bail out in Loei, truck the bike & myself back to Chiang Mai for some TLC on both rider and machine.
1690280180307-jpeg.151858


Not being on the road for a long time like this it was interesting to see how things were.
Sadly lots of places have closed but accommodation prices have dropped back a lower level & there is some excellent value for money out there now,

A few comments & notes for the trip. The roads have gotten better, with much more 4-lane dual carriage way & concrete or asphalt. In comparison to asphalt, some of the concrete roads are not so enjoyable and also retain a lot more heat than the asphalt roads.

R11 Chiang Mai – Lampang = the clickety click 4 lane concrete highway.
After crossing the ridge line from cox to Lampang there's a lovely sweeping downhill section, but you do need to watch out for cars cruising at a good speed and slamming on the brakes.
In a sweet left-hander Iwas sitting behind a car nicely at 100-120 kph in the fast lane as he was overtaking.
And then suddenly a 60kph speed limit sign and he slams on the brakes hard.
I almost run up his arse, but managed to brake enough, straighten the bike up and swing left between the two cars. No chance if swerving out to the right and hitting the concrete barrier.
I'm not sure these speed limit signs are carefully thought out or located.

It is noticeable that some of these provincial concrete 4-lane highways are of variable standard. Some are relatively smooth and some are bloody annoying. The worse one being R101 Den Chai - Phrae imho.
In contrast, R11 south from Den Chai to the provincial border with Uttaradit is a gem of a smooth, flowing billiard table asphalt road.

Approaching Uttaradit the speed cops are out in force, nicking everyone for exceeding the ridiculous 90 kph speed limit on the 4-lane super.
There was a long queue of cars backed up & almost everyone was getting pulled over.
I slowly ride alongside the left hand side of the road to come up to the checkpoint barrier, and out between the 3 cops with their hands out waving everyone in. They were a bit startled by me popping out, nodding & riding slowly between them, as if it was nothing to do with me, silly old farang; but as I cleared the line of 3 policeman, there was as shout stop stop, which could have been directed at anyone, and I just kept going slowly at 20 kph and carried on. Nothing happened, but I guess it is possible they noted my rego. Time will tell if there’s a ticket in the mail.


To be continued
 

DavidFL

0
Staff member
Subscribed
Jan 16, 2003
14,790
5,609
113
70
Chiang Khong
www.thegtrider.com
In Chiang Mai on the way south it's great to catch up with my son Jason, who cared for me so well after my crash last year.
The UN Irish Pub is a preferred venue for a breakfast meet up.
1690453511558.jpeg


and damn it's quiet at the UN Irish first thing in the morning.
1690453562706.jpeg


After 3 nights in Chiang Mai it's time to head off to Phrae.
1690453908445.jpeg

R11 south from Chiang Mai is one of those clickety click concrete roads.

In this year's heat we are blessed with PTT / 7-11 / aircon Amazon coffee shops, & I have to wonder how we survived without them decades ago?
1690454059344.jpeg


Phrae was the stop for night.
I used to always used to stay at the Namthong hotel, but it was rebranded after covid & the price increased significantly.
My budget limit for a hotel is 600 baht & in Phrae it is not easy finding a comfy hotel for the price.
Nowadays then my preferred hotel in Phrae is the Viva Resort @ 450 baht. A short time hotel, but excellent value & facilities.
1690456069112.jpeg


Miss JiJi is the new bubbly receptionist at the Viva & you could be forgiven into thinking she was going to lead you astray,
1690456214601.jpeg


For an easy relaxing night in Phrae I hit the T-bone steak house, to check on how they were going.

1690534302179.jpeg


1690534319996.jpeg


They've survived covid & are still doing ok.
We had a great GTR dinner here in 2018

The Cinderella massage was an inviting establishment I saw in Phrae but managed carry on by.
1690534848629.jpeg


1690534864426.jpeg

but I reckon it would be good for a laugh if a group of us dropped by for a massage one night.

I used to enjoy going to WeeWee for dinner or breakfast, but since they moved to upstairs opposite the hospital, I've lost interest due to the cumbersome access.
My breakfast winner in Phrae then is the Gingerbread
1690535004885.jpeg

They have excellent coffee, a half decent brekky plus loads of info about Phrae & its attractions.

 
Last edited:

DavidFL

0
Staff member
Subscribed
Jan 16, 2003
14,790
5,609
113
70
Chiang Khong
www.thegtrider.com
Phrae - Loei is one of my all time favourite rides.
1691768385053.jpeg

R101 - Den Chai - R11 - Uttraradit - R1246 - R1143- R2013 - R203.
320 kms of fabulous winding, undulating roads, up and down over the hills and mountains.
Fortunately for me too on this trip especially, there are plenty of stops along the way.

1691768481680.jpeg


The most important one is the Khao Plung sala view point on R11 overlooking "Uttaradit."
In 93 I got hit by an orange crush bus & almost lost my left leg, with 100 stitches in it.
One of the first persons on the scene was the lady from the Gai Yang / BBQ chicken stall at the viewpoint.
1690559912439.jpeg


30 years later she is still there selling bbq chicken, & I always stop in to pay my respects.
1690559925592.jpeg


Between the sala viewpoint & Loei I need more rest stops in the PTT Amazon at Chat Trakarn, Nakhon Thai & Dan Sai city to catch up on dear friends.
The PTT Amazon at Chat Trakarn is a beauty & always busy with locals hanging out in the aircon., and if you live in any of these small "backwater towns" the PTT Amazon may be one of the few aircon establishments in town. Travelling through these towns & stopping at the PTT Amazon you often see business meetings held & it sometimes looks as if the PTT Amazon becomes the centre meeting point in town, or even the "local centre of the universe." I find them interesting to observe what people are hanging out there.

The PTT Amazon Chat Trakarn.
1690561563475.jpeg


Between Nakhon Thai & Dan Sai I always stop at the "Hiekel curves", where on Robert Hiekel crashed on his KTM one night in a crazy ride to Dan Sai for the Phi Ta Khon festival.

1690561750612.jpeg


1690561763830.jpeg


The corner may not look much, but it was dark & Robet ran wide with one of his side boxes clipping the guide post & down he went in the bushes. HOw could you do that? Well he started of the day in Pattaya & rode his Africa Twin to Chiang Mai, the swapped bikes to the KTM & was heading to Dan Sai to catch up. He almost got there, about 16 kms short. He would have been my hero if he had made it, but as it was, he was just a bit crazy at times.

Dan Sai is another magic little town famous for its Phi Ta Khon festival held every year at the end of June begining of July.
I've attended at least 15 of these events over the years & had intended to go this year but could not, due to my leg infection.
However I always make a compulsory stop at the Khrua Khun Nai to say hello to my Dan Sai friends.
1690563317813.jpeg


1690563331050.jpeg

I've known these gals for 30 years & we feel like family now whenever we get together.

A late lunch down at 5PM it was on to Loei for the night.
It is 5 years since I've been to Loei & I was warned about the treacherous slippery road going downhill from Phu Rua towards Loei.
Fortunately it was dry, but I had a couple of very scary moments, in traffic backed up, following a water cart truck going downhill.
The lazy driver had not closed the caps on the water truck & every now again when he hit the brakes going down into a corner, the water sloshed out all over the road. On that polished black asphalt the road is like ice when wet. Eventually I thought you've temped fate enough, gave up & pulled over to the side of the road & let the traffic go past. I then rode downhill on the shoulder of the road, safety first!
 
Last edited:

DavidFL

0
Staff member
Subscribed
Jan 16, 2003
14,790
5,609
113
70
Chiang Khong
www.thegtrider.com
The Kings Hotel is my favourite hotel in Loei & @ 450 baht it too is a winner.
1690615901691.jpeg


In the boom times the Kings price had jumped to 800 baht a night & I changed hotels to the Phutawan for a while, but now that the KIng's prices are back to the old level it wins every time for me.
Get a room on the ground floor at the back, by the rear entrance, & it's only a few steps out the door to your bike parked under cover.
20230715_223826-01-jpeg.151813

Rooms 106 & 105 are the lucky numbers to get.
Another advantage too is that if you have a guest visiting, they can enter through the back door & step straight into your room, without having to pass public surveillance through the front lobby. I once had a regular squeeze in Loei & she was most appreciative of the discretion provided.

A plug for the "bell boy" at the Kings.
1690616344798.jpeg

An employee of 30 years & he is always smiley, happy & super efficient.
He sure has seen some staff & customers go through the Kings. Top man.

A night time wander through Loei has indicated some changes,
My favourite all time pub the Muang Loei has gone & has been replaced by the spanking new (open 2 weeks) Bottom Bar.
20230715_215531-01-01-01-jpeg.151823


20230715_215847-01-01-jpeg.151826


A few metres down the same street are 2 other joints with a nice vibe to relax at
Bar Basic
1690390200501-jpeg.151863


1690390259798-jpeg.151865


Chill Cub Bar
1690278229945-jpeg.151850


1690278248792-jpeg.151851


The go to place for brekky in Loei is the Phu Loei Coffee.
1690617039553.jpeg


The coffee is excellent & the brekky gets a pass.
1690617123768.jpeg


My other favourite place in Loei is the kwiteo shop Rock & Loei, owned by Ken ex the Barista Corazon in Pai.
When covid came & killed tourism, Ken packed up shop in Pai & returned to his hometown Loei to set up a kwiteo noodle shop, just near the Loei Rajabhat university.
1690617367319.jpeg


1690617382074.jpeg


Pop in and say hi sometime.
 
Last edited:

mikerust

0
Subscribed
Nov 5, 2003
798
69
28
Kopchaideu 25th Anniversary party.

How time flies. I thought it was older than that. I must have been there when it was almost new. I note that the Scandinavian bakery is closed. Where now for breakfast?
 

DavidFL

0
Staff member
Subscribed
Jan 16, 2003
14,790
5,609
113
70
Chiang Khong
www.thegtrider.com
How time flies. I thought it was older than that. I must have been there when it was almost new. I note that the Scandinavian bakery is closed. Where now for breakfast?

Yep the covid tourism devastation" in Laos is pretty horrific.
1690702088912.jpeg


1690702103076.jpeg


The demise of the Scandi was sad, as that place was an iconic establishment for decades in Vte.
1690702062366.jpeg


The Banneton has also closed, their breakfast was amazing & legendary, fortunately the Banneton in Luang Prabang is still going. I tried a brekky at 3 places in Vte, La Terrasse, Le Petit Jardin & the Benoni, and the winner certainly is La Terrasse.

 

DavidFL

0
Staff member
Subscribed
Jan 16, 2003
14,790
5,609
113
70
Chiang Khong
www.thegtrider.com
Loei to Nong Khai.
1691748541745.jpeg

A leisurely ride, but I started to get hampered by bad carpal tunnel syndrome & had to stop every 50-60 kms.
The CPTS is something that first reared its ugly head at the start of the year riding the scooter around, with numbness coming in after 50 kms, but no issues on the Vstrom?
Departure time from Loei was 10.20AM & arrival time in Nong Khai was 5.20PM.
1691744519427.jpeg


R211 is a joy to ride along the Mekong from Loei, but it aint as good as riding Paradise Road @ Chiang Khong still.
A convenient lunch spot along the way.
20230716_130705.jpg


20230716_130648.jpg



Riding 211
20230716_144016.jpg


After a horrific long hot season, it was fantastic to see so much water in the Mekong coming back.
20230716_144037.jpg


20230716_144055.jpg


The famous Nong Pla Buek viewpiont.
20230716_144118.jpg
20230716_144206.jpg


Ther GTR favourite stop on R211 is the Sunflower / Tantawan restaurant in Sang Khom, 154 kms from Loei / 96 kms from Nong Khai.

20230716_152013.jpg


20230716_151938.jpg



The weather all day had been hot & draining, especially going at a slower speed as a precaution with my hands numbing up.
Then on the last stretch on the last 40 kms to Nong Khai I could see the mother of all big black storms inbound from the N-NE coming & had to wind up the wick, siting on 140-150 KPH to get into Nong Khai before it hit. And it worked, just as I crossed the super into Nong Khai city it started to rain, so I made a "panic rush" for the closest place that I knew with under cover parking, Prajak Bungalows.
20230716_173203.jpg


20230716_173316.jpg


Feeling knackered after a 250 kms ride I crashed out for a few hours.
Nong Khai it was for a rest day the next day.
Oh, how the body has aged after a big crash a year ago, & what a bitch carpal tunnel syndrome is!!

A few Nong Khai highlights
1691748869536.jpeg


1691752215498.jpeg


The heat was on in NK, especially with that massive wide flat concrete treeless boulevard they have by the river.
1691749113132.jpeg

33, but real feel of 37 & I agreed. It was time to hunker down in Nong Khai!

The wise locals only come out to play at dusk, when the sun has gone down.
GTR-Nong-Khai20230717_185419.jpg


GTR-Nong-Khai20230717_185247.jpg


GTR-Nong-Khai20230717_184521.jpg


GTR-Nong-Khai20230717_184600.jpg


Macky's on the river front is the GTR favourite dining spot.
GTR-Nong-Khai20230717_103734.jpg


GTR-Nong-Khai20230716_192810.jpg


A deserted boulevard before a huge storm hit
GTR-Nong-Khai20230717_193147.jpg


A place to shelter from rain.
GTR-Nong-Khai20230717_193111.jpg

The Beyond Cafe was a daytime saviour with its aircon premises.
GTR-Nong-Khai20230717_141052.jpg


GTR-Nong-Khai20230717_141407.jpg


Another saviour was the Browny Laundromat.
GTR-Nong-Khai20230717_111550.jpg



and haven't these businesses been a real godsend for bikers & travellers. No more soggy smelly clothes in your bag.
Just chuck 'em in the machine, wash em & then spin dry em for a perfect fresh finish.
 
Last edited:

DavidFL

0
Staff member
Subscribed
Jan 16, 2003
14,790
5,609
113
70
Chiang Khong
www.thegtrider.com
Laos & Vientiane
Off to Laos / Vientiane & the KCD 25th anniversary party.
My invitation to go to the Kopchaideu 25th anniversary party came from Inthy, owner of the KCD & Green Discovery Tours in Laos.
Inthy & I go back to Feb 2001, when I was riding shotgun for the first big bicycle tour in Laos, Luang Prabang - Vientiane.
upload_2020-4-7_1-42-45-png.135521



Some Laos history with Inthy
We met Inthy @ Vang Vieng & later used his Xayao / Ban Sabai for catering in Vang Vieng.
As Inthy was a biker, we became good friends forever after. Inthy also plays guitar & sings, so that even bonds the relationship a bit more.

2003 @ KCD in Vientiane
1691814673833.jpeg


There are some characters in this image
Inthy on the left.
Vincent Zermin, now deceased, who had Lao citizenship & a beautiful house built into the banks of the Mekong @ Champasak.
Steve Sciphani, whom I first met when he was a peace corp volunteer in Luang Nam Tha, but moved on to be regional ADB / Mekong tourism director for awhile! Steve hit the big time.
Bill Tuffin, ex partner & manager @ the Boat Landing in Luang Nam Tha, prior to the kidnap of Pawn.

Inthy once sucked me into a zipline @ Paksong in southern Laos, inviting Alex at Contact Travel in Chiang Mai to go checkout his new zipline project @ Paksong. I never forgave him, he damn near killed me getting out of there, but I never backed off & did it.
267088-2644-zipline1-jpg.48991


Alex & I rocked up just to have a look, not participate!
But we thought ok, lets suck it & see. I should have known better!

267091-2656-img_5233-jpg.49002


To go to Vientiane or not?
Reluctant I was to go to Vientiane for the 25th anniversary party, due to the overall cost, but Inthy insisted he would provide the accommodation in Vientiane & help with the border crossing entry at the FB1 bridge. How could I refuse?
I was also keen to check out exactly what was going on at the FB1, for 5 years ago at the 20th KCD Anniversary they had just started the "2,000 baht bridge fee," & I initially ran foul of the customs on the Laos side. At first I was refused entry, you cannot come in without a permit & a game of bluff was paid out over an hour and a half. Despite showing my multiple entries to Laos I was still refused. Eventually I pleaded I just coming to Vientiane for the 20th anniversary party of the KCD & staying at Inthy's apartment. Oh, you know Inthy, he is my friend. OK you can go, if you just stay in Vientiane, and so it was. I was allowed to go.
5 years later they are still running the lousy FB1 scamming set up & must be making a lot of money!

I suggested to Inthy I would try the bluff game again & did not want to be paying for the "Lotus FB1 scam."
His reply was to let his staff organize my border clearance. TK was the man.
It went like this


FB1 @ Friendship Bridge Nong Khai.
18th July 2023.
1691817633064.png

Parked in the wrong spot on the wrong side of the building.

I crossed yesterday 18th July using an agent.
I was advised you cannot enter without an agent at FB1 now David.
I was prepared to try and bluff my way through but my Vte contact said no, we will do the paperwork for you David
And so it was....

Exiting Thailand was no issue, once I told both immigration and customs that I had prior approval to enter on the Laos side.
25 minutes and I was cleared on the Thai side.
Having your bike data in the customs computer from previous trips is a huge help.

I arrived on the Lao side slightly before the agent and already had my Lao visa and stamps when he arrived.
20230718_142044-01-jpeg.151839


The next step was to clear police and customs.
Police were no problem once the documents were presented.
However, the all-important official made us wait 2 hours for a signature on a "yellow stick me note", before we could submit the documents for customs clearance.
Once the all-important signature was given, it was relatively simple as my bike data was already in the computer from a couple of weeks ago.
Total time from start Thai side to exit Lao side was 1.30pm - 4.45pm. The delay being 2 hours waiting for the Lao customs signature.

We believe the delay on the Lao side was because there was no commission being paid for the signature. The all-important official involved was in a claimed meeting for 2 hours, and no one else could sign an import approval?
This person is a cousin of Lotus Travel who are preparing most of, if not all, the bike import papers at the FB1.
Is this a racket and monopoly being set up?
Complaints and questions that have been made in Vientiane are currently being ignored, but more complaints will be made. This is not the way to facilitate entry, travel, and tourism in Laos.

When you enter Laos at the FB1 bridge, note that there is a new private car section on the extreme right behind the row of buildings on the right.
20230718_142901-01-jpeg.151840

The new "hidden" private vehicle section.

20230718_143332-01-jpeg.151841


It is a bit confusing the first time, but it is a bit easier now that they've separated public buses and private vehicles.
20230718_143419-01-jpeg.151842


Total cost for the paperwork on the Laos aide was approximately 150 baht.

Nobody is happy about this, except the tour company involved & the official pocketing the money. Only FB1 is enforcing this policy.
Combined with a US$40-$50 visa you are being fleeced to enter Laos.

Complaints and questions that have been made in Vientiane are currently being ignored, but more complaints will be made. This is not the way to facilitate entry, travel, and tourism in Laos.
If you can use another entry port into Laos please do. Don't support this scam if possible.
You can enter Laos at Bokeo, Tha Khek and Vang Tao easily enough at the moment. Savannakhet maybe ok once again, if you can exit from Mukdahan.
Entry from Thailand through Xayaboury province is problematic because there are No Visa on Arrival facilities, No eVisa accepted, at any of the 4 Xayaboury ports of entry.
 
Last edited:

DavidFL

0
Staff member
Subscribed
Jan 16, 2003
14,790
5,609
113
70
Chiang Khong
www.thegtrider.com
Vientiane
The Laos border was finally cleared at 5pm & only the Vientiane traffic was the last challenge left.
I hit the Kopchaideu at 6PM to find Inthy & another Lao mate waiting for me at the KCD.
A few jugs of Beer Lao draft were consumed reuniting & swapping memories.
Asked how my ride over, I complained of the carpal tunnel issue & Inthy's mate Long chipped in that he had the same problem & eventually had his neck pinned for spondylosis to save both his hands & legs. Long's experience certainly got me thinking & a bit concerned about the future, as my body certainly has been beaten up enough.
TK arrived at KCD to join in for a few beers, to advise that my accommodations in Vientiane, courtesy of KCD was booked at the Crown Plaza. Woo-hoo, that's a bit wish for the old GTR fellah I thought, but I will take it. 4,500 baht a night! An hour or two after several beers I escaped the KCD, still in my riding kit to check into the Crown Plaza.
Now the Crown Plaza is a multi story hotel with an underground car park.
The old GTR fellah rocked up in his riding kit, hot & sweaty & under the influence.
He dropped off his luggage with the bell boy, rode off underground to find a parking spot in the gauge car park, & then caught a lift up to the ground floor lobby. Eager he was to check into his 4,500 baht hotel room.
But, presentation of his hotel booking drew a confused smile & blank.
Nope we don't have a booking for you sir as mentioned on this voucher.
Please check again.
Nope, sorry no booking.
A phone call to TK ensues & he queries why no booking there?
Sorry we don't have one for Mr David ac Green Discovery.
Oh dear.
TK let me check again with the GDL staff.
15 minutes later he rings back, sorry wrong hotel, it should be the IBIS hotel 200 metres from the KCD. 55
Oh well, back down to the underground car park in your riding kit, ride up & out to the front of the lobby, reload your luggage on the bike & head back to a spot 200 metres from the KCD!
Check into the IBIS hotel & 45 minutes later I was enjoying a few coldies at the mighty Windwest Pub with Air NaDao (Sai) & Gik the Windwest owner. Life was good - TQ Inthy & GDL.
1691855761576.jpeg

Air Na Dao
1691855775135.jpeg

Air Na Dao is a 5-star chief & owner of Na Dao restaurant in Vientiane.
A biker Air used to ride Vientiane - Pakse non-stop regularly, when he had his restaurant in Pakse; however on one trip riding North at night he hit a cow, killed it & almost himself. His right leg was mangled appallingly, but he survived, had the leg rebuilt in hospital in Vientiane and continues to ride. A true legend!

Air & Gik, owner of the Windwest & very first live music pub in Vientiane. Still going strong after 30 years!
1691855786536.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Deano747

DavidFL

0
Staff member
Subscribed
Jan 16, 2003
14,790
5,609
113
70
Chiang Khong
www.thegtrider.com
The KCD 25th Anniversary Party was a brilliant night for catching up with old mates & associates from the last 20 odd years, mapping & riding in Laos. A few happy snaps but I should have more.

The red carpet entrance with Inthy & TK
1691929055023.jpeg



With Fuark & riding mates.
1691929092064.jpeg


With Inthy's Mum & Dad, Air Na Dao & P Tay.
1691929124702.jpeg

Inthy's dad (in the wheelchair) was a famous poet & speech writer for the Pathet Lao in the war. Inthy's Mum & Dad used to live / hide in the Vieng Xai caves from the bombing & Inthy was actually born in a cave. His life story & success is worthy of TV mini series.
I once sent 1,000 maps into Laos across the FB1 bridge by pick up & the customs impounded them. Not for duty payment, but because someone did not approve the image on the back cover of the map with me sitting on the Lao policeman's bike. The maps were held for 2 months & were only released when Inthy's mum went down to the bridge to get them!

1691929972928.jpeg


Miss Soda the Mc for the night
1691931723687.jpeg

Soda has also been the Mc @ the Savannakhet Music Festivals.

1691932769426.jpeg


With Lek & Soda.
Lek has the Savan Sumran hotel in Mukdahan, & also had the Savan Cafe / Ghouse in Savannakhet, but closed it due to covid. All gone.
1691931784214.jpeg


Some great music on the night
1691932039121.jpeg


1691932055014.jpeg

Sadly I did not know the artists.

Long, the brilliant jazz pianist, studied music in Switzerland at a famous college, graduated & went to the USA. Then came home to Laos.
1691932135133.jpeg

This fine gentleman had the same "carpal tunnel syndrone" issue I have but actually had his back pinned in two places. Spondylosis, which is what I fear I may have & need surgery. On the 17th August 2023, I hope to know. Get it done asap David was his advice at the KCD.

A speech by Inthy plus the birthday cake.
1691932334651.jpeg


1691932351656.jpeg


Another highlight of Vientiane was to catch to up Ms Tukta, the famous Windwest bartendeee for 15 years.
1691930175072.jpeg


Tukta no longer works at the Windwest, but has her own little barbeer not far from home, near the airport.
1691930236896.jpeg

Business is slow, but working for herself she is much more happy & relaxed, compared to the wild nights we used to have at the Windwest.

Windwest 2011
1691931423183.jpeg


2023 @ home.
1691931530464.jpeg


There is an apartment block with Chinese 50 metres away from her joint, & on a goodnight she can make US$150 with tips.
Life is not too bad Tukta says.
1691932422236.jpeg



Interesting when Tukta started work at the Windwest she was 19 & worked there for 15 years. There was no salary the first 3 months, only a few tips. After 3 months her salary was 1,000 baht a month.
 
Last edited:

DavidFL

0
Staff member
Subscribed
Jan 16, 2003
14,790
5,609
113
70
Chiang Khong
www.thegtrider.com
Last day in Vientiane was to catch up to TK @ his home 16 kms out of Vientiane.
With his help we were able to go over the GTR Laos map sufficiently well to have enough info for an update.

1692020167658.jpeg


1692020193137.jpeg


The last 1.5 kms to TK was a classic potholed Lao dirt road & it was hard work for the old GTR fellah on the VStrom.
Whilst it was fantastic to catch up with old friends in Vientiane, my time was less than fully enjoyable due to the issue with the increasing tingling numbness in my hands, also resulting in a very poor sleep.

Returning from TK's house in peak hour traffic, just a few kms out of Vte city, following a car on the asphalt road at 50kph I hit a huge pothole, that I never saw. Absolutely massive it was & totally unavoidable in the traffic. Bang, the suspension of the bike - front & rear - bottomed out & I was momentarily air born. Somehow, I survived & didn't drop the bike, how I did that I don't know, but survive I did, & in the traffic, just kept plodding along.
I got back to the hotel shaken up & bloody sore.
Layesd down for a couple of hours & thought, let's go home for some TLC.

I had 2 more days of appointments lined up, cancelled them & bailed out of Vientiane that evening & crossed back into Thailand @ Nong Khai at 8pm, eager to get on with hit & go see the specialists in Chiang Mai!
Homeward bound slowly, but safe & sure was the plan...
 
Last edited:

DavidFL

0
Staff member
Subscribed
Jan 16, 2003
14,790
5,609
113
70
Chiang Khong
www.thegtrider.com
Crossing back to Thailand I missed the duty-free shop at the bridge, too late, closed already.
The Klang Muang hotel was my place of stay this time round = the winner being under cover parking.
In Vientiane my bike was parked out in the rain every night & I was relieved none of the downpours set off the musical horns on my bike, as happened earlier this year in Phayao!

The Klang Muang Room
1692026586679.jpeg


1692027019434.jpeg


In Vientiane my bike was parked out in the rain every night & I was relieved none of the downpours set off the musical horns on my bike, as happened earlier this year in Phayao!

It was a welcome sleep that night, especially with the thought of my bike safe 'n sound under cover at the hotel.
Homeward bound slowly the next day, all being well.
There was heavy rain during the night & the thought occurred to me that if it was still wet & raining in the morning, I would ride south to Udon, truck the bike back to Chiang Mai & fly.
However as it was the next morning was fine, clear & hot again.
Ride it is, but it was hard going & within 40 kms I needed the first break.
The PTT Amazon at Sang Khom was stop # 2 / 80 kms from Nong Khai.
1692028367518.jpeg


Is this the most beautiful Amazon coffee shop with these Mekong views?
1692028613026.jpeg




Khok Pai & the Golden Bamboo restaurant was stop # 3
1690448152982-jpeg.151876


There's multiple gorgeous bamboo sala restaurants here along the Mekong & the food is always fantastic.
1690448269457-jpeg.151879


1690448255992-jpeg.151878


1690448390169-jpeg.151882



Highly recommended.

I plodded along, the going became more demanding, the slow pace in the heat did not help.
The PTT Amazon at Pua was next. I was pretty shattered here & took a lengthy break.
Rest stop finished, it was time to remount, but not before a quick look over the bike beforehand.
1692029356609.jpeg
1692029367038.jpeg

Oops two blown for seals. What the hell. Earlier on I thought there was a bit much bounce in the front end - steering head bearing loose?
No doubt that massive pothole I hot yesterday.
Just my lucky day. What next.....
I'd been riding with a worn rear tyre - the last trip with it, & it needed a quick once over.
And....
1692029528344.jpeg


Sure enough, a piece of steel in the tyre.
But luck was on my side, a tyre shop 2 kms down the road.
Let's stop & take a look. A quick water test & yeah it probably is leaking.
Let's pull it out. And sure enough a leak. The chang plugs it & I'm 80 baht poorer.
1692029715715.jpeg


It's 40 kms to Loei. It's a hot and slow ride.
I pull up at the first traffic lights & need to make a turn.
My left thumb is numb & I can't indicate to make the turn.
200 metres later I want to stop, but can't pull the key out of the ignition even, numb fingers!
Oh man, what a ride through hell it has been.
Totally shattered, I checked into the Kings Hotel & crashed out for 3 hours.
I was done!
No riding home tomorrow, get a truck for the bike. you can't do that 500 kms like this.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Gregthemagnificent

DavidFL

0
Staff member
Subscribed
Jan 16, 2003
14,790
5,609
113
70
Chiang Khong
www.thegtrider.com
The next day after a post on facebook looking for transport of a motorbike Loei - Chiang Mai, I had a pick organised in a couple of hours.
1692107439224.jpeg


1692107450438.jpeg

5500 baht for the bike & me direct to Chiang Mai, "non-stop"
The driver was a couple of hours late, on account of his wife leaving her clothes behind.

Most of the journey was in the dark & arrival time in Chiang Mai was 1am!
1692107539235.jpeg


The driver was good, smooth & cautious, plus obeyed the speed limits all the way.
A bit slow at times, but I guess he was saving petrol too.
 

DavidFL

0
Staff member
Subscribed
Jan 16, 2003
14,790
5,609
113
70
Chiang Khong
www.thegtrider.com
UPDATE: The end of the story.

Carpal Tunnel Syndrome
As some of you may know from my recent ride through hell, coming back from Vientiane, where I had some severe carpal tunnel syndrome, losing the feeling in my hands & not being able to ride more than 20-40 kms at a time. It was time to get the definitive diagnosis, after a few months wondering what the hell was going on.
I'd consulted the bone doctor at Kasemrad Sriburin who operated on & saved my right leg from the crash last year, & his opinion that yes it seemed like carpal tunnel, but the quick tests we did at the Sriburin clinic were unclear.
On my return from that disastrous Vientiane ride I consulted Nantawit, who replaced my left knee in 2017. Nantawit is actually a spine specialist and I thought perhaps my hand numbness maybe coming from my neck or spine. But his opinion was no, not the neck or spine.
Coming out of Nantawit's clinic was surprised to see my orthopaedic hero, Dr Sudhee, there with his wife!!
1693028063664.jpeg


Sudhee is well retired now, but Dr Nantawit was one of his students for orthopaedics, and his wife was having a checkup on her knee replacement that Dr Nantawit had done!
Sudhee was keen to know why I was there consulting Nantawit & did a quick check up on my condition. No it's not the neck, and it looks like carpal tunnel, but maybe not.
His recommendation, along with Nantawit then was to consult the number 1 hand guy in Chiang Mai, Dr Kanit at his clinic.
A consultation with Kanit
1693028794479.jpeg

also suggested carpal tunnel, but maybe not.
The only solution then was to undergo a sensory nerve test - electrophysiologic - with needles & small electric shocks to determine exactly where the source of the problem was.
I got a referral for the neuro doctor at Ram hospital for the test, but Thailand was going into a one off 6-day holiday, and the good Dr was not there until after the holiday. Damn. No problem, I thought, just go to another hospital & she'll be right mate. No such luck though, McCormick, Rajavej, Lanna cannot do the test. I queued up at the government hospital for 2.5 hours to consult a neuro only to be told yes, we can do the test, but the queue waiting list is 2 months. At the government hospital in Chiang Rai, the queue was one month. I waited in Chiang Mai for a week for an appointment with the neuro only to be told come back in 2 weeks for the test @ 11,000 baht. Frustrated & disappointed, home it was to Chiang Khong to wait out the 2 weeks.
2 weeks later back in Chiang Mai for the test. 1.5 hours of needles & shocks to confirm, yes not the neck, but only carpal tunnel at the wrist. Woo-hoo we've nailed it!
1693031514045.jpeg


The good DR
1693031540927.jpeg

A young female doctor, educated in the UK spoke fluent English & was actually a "sanuk dee", fun test chatting as went along.

Pinpoints for nerve testing
1693031737846.jpeg


With the test result. it was time to go back to the hand doctor Kanit, he was away again & was not free for 5 more days. I pleaded for an appointment & he graciously agreed to see me in 2-day's time, at which we agreed to do the carpal tunnel surgery in another 3 days. Finally, a winner.
A taxi to his clinic on the day, & almost straight in for surgery. No more waiting around.
1693031370138.jpeg

A local anaesthetic, a quick "cut & a tuck" & the job is done.
I felt the needle go in for the Novacaine injection, nothing else after that, & 40 minutes later he said all finished. 3 stitches & a bandage & you're all clear to go. 5,000 baht well spent I sincerely hope.

I'm still stunned at the rapid onset on my carpal tunel syndrome problem, as a few months ago I was claiming I'd never felt better riding my Vstrom after the accident last year & was planning another 1,000 kms non-stop ride Chiang Khong - Nakhon Phanom to test out my stamina. However, looking back the last few months I recall
1. suffering poor sleep, waking up in the night with tingling or numb hands
2. thinking that both the throttle grips on my bikes - the NMax 155 scooter & the Vstrom 650 were getting too stiff. It was my hands losing feeling & not being able to grip fully & twist the throttle!

1693031779511.jpeg

Hopefully back on the road again in 2 more weeks, after the stitches are out.
It must be time for some good luck soon!

For medical see also
 
Last edited: