Nan-Pua-Phayao-4 nights on the road with my son

DavidFL

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Something a bit different but a total joy for me to be able to do.
A quick blast around the Nan - the King of Big Bike Touring Provinces.

Due to the traffic mayhem over Christmas & New Year I oped not to travel to Chiang Mai & hook up with my son Jason, but promised a short bike trip with him post new year, to do a couple of roads he has always dreamed of: R1148& R1081 for T3.

I mosey'ed on down to Chiang Mai from Chiang Khong via my preferred route from Chiang Khong: R1290 Paradise Road - Chiang Saen R1016 - Mae Chan R1089 - Tha Ton / Fang R107 - Chiang Mai. Why do I prefer this route? It avoids R118 from Mae Suai - Mae Kachan and the annoying traffic with the 80kph road hogs hugging the centre lane.

The Top North Hotel is the current GTR favourite spot to hang out at
Massive rooms in the old wing @ 450 baht
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Plus a pool should you be so inclined.
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But sadly in the old wing there's no bum gun & that was a shock to the system!
In low season the old wing at the top north was closed & you stayed in the new wing, with smaller rooms, hotter water & a shower, plus you got a bum gun.
The price 450 baht.
In high season the old wing was opened with rooms for 450 baht & the price for the new rooms went up to 600 baht.
My hotel booking was done online & I opted for the same price, not realizing I wasnt getting a bum gun. Oh well. Next time I know - get a bum gun room, its worth the bit extra. 55

Social duties saw me hang out in Cnx for 3 nights to catch up to a few friends & check up on life & any biz recovery.

Seepak restaurant in Mae Rim where I used to live kicked things off.
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The GTR favourite spicy Gai Seepak is the favourite for the old fellah & his son
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Back in the big concrete jungle, I had the pleasure & joy of hitting Into a Garden on the south side of the moat.
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The atmosphere was excellent and the PGs remembered lung from another establishment. Win Win.

The Bamboo Mexican team from Chiang Khong joined forces for the sundowner & a great time chatting away from the "pressure of home."
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The night came & it was time to move on for a rendezvous with the ex & still the apple of my eye.
Life is full of delightful changes & time seems to heal issues not resolved many years ago.
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One thing that has never changed is the surreal beauty of her voice, genuine warmth & loveliness.
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God we had so many goood times over 13 years, touring, drinking & enjoying life together.




The ex wasn't the only one who got some GTR attention. The Mr Mechanic darlings are always a hit with GTR, & I trust everyone has picked up their MHS Memorial Ride shirts from the Mr Mechanic office next to the Kafe.
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More to come..
 
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DavidFL

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The old fellah's route

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Day 1 of the trip starts off with a UN Irish Brekky to ensure full tummies on the road thrashing along on the Aerox 155.
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Departure time from the Cnx Super is 9am.
First stop is the PTT @ Wang Nua to top up the Yamaha Aerox 155.
The time is 11.46 AM & 93 kms are down.
Jason is not sure how far he can get on a tank of the 155 going at a fast clip' so to to test out the fuel range he carries 2 x 1.5 litre bottles of extra fuel in his back pack.
We set off at a fast clip - flat out for him up the 120 & he's loving it. I'm impressed how much speed he car carry through the corners on that little bike & have to work the Vstrom to keep up going downhill through all those lovely swooping corners.
117 kms from Wang Nua the Aerox runs dry & it has done well. On the flat Jason is able to comfortably sit on 115 kph in the draft of the 650 Vstrom.

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Pong city is the next real tour stop & a brief one to see the statue of the first King of Laos Fa Ngum.
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It is a bit of unknown history & it didn't seem to register with the young fellah about the significance of the history.
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GTR has a report on it here

The Yom River site
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2 kms downstream in Pong is the official source of the Yom River. Another place of importance for those concerned about the environment, Thailand's watersheds & dams.
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A Takhian Tree at the source of the Yom
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What these are all about

R1091 from Pong to Chiang Muan is one of my favourite roads in the North.
A bumpy narrow twisting old one. 42 kms of adrenelin usually for me trying to ride it fast, but it was naturally the worst road for Jason on the trip with his small bike. And rightly so, I should have used R1251 from Dok Kham Thai to Chiang Muan.

Wat Tha Fah Tai is a quick whistle stop for a look at a renowned ancient Tai Lue temple
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Lunch then is at Pa Tiew's delightful restaurant @ Pong Sanuk, Chiang Muan.
The time is 2.15PM.
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There's some impressive timber & furniture in her house - restaurant.
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R1091 from Chiang Muan takes off then up into the hills & is my favourite road / ride into Nan city.
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The Aerox rider is a lot happier to with the smooth surface.
"Sadly" it's not far to Ban Lung & another compulsory pit stop for his father to check on friends.
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Baan Aoy coffee is the location. Located outside the hospital, is a convenient spot to meet some locals, hospital staff, nurses & teachers.
Check it out sometime. The retired Ban Luang school headmaster hangs out here & speaks quite good English for a chat.

The Bangchak gas station is also another compulsory GTR stop in Ban Luang.
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Ms Phueng is the star & a regular customer at Ban Aoy Coffee
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Fully re-aquainted & back on the gas the intrepid father & son team rode on into Nan city.
Arrival time is 4,15PM & time to kick back a bit.
The Grand Mansion is the place of stay, & unbelievably they still have rooms for the non-extortionate price of 400 baht.
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Nan maybe booming with up market boutique hotels & hi-so selfie Bkk tourists, but the Grand Mansion still delivers for the local price.

 
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Ughetto

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Nice family and friends with beautiful description of the new adventure.
Alwayes the number one.
 
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DavidFL

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Playing tourist around Nan

Wat Ming Muang
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Wat Sri Panthon
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Wat Phrathat Chang Kham Worawihan
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The night market was packed full of people, but we both opted to stay away from the dense congested crowd.
Dinner beckoned & the ambience of the Sanian was the winner for both of us.
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One happy rider in glorious Nan
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DavidFL

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Day 2 on the road is a day to hang out in Nan, but the day stats off @ Hot Bread, the GTR brekky favourite in Nan for over a decade.
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Nan has been operating the Hot Bread for 17 years now she says & recently surprised Mike Free Rider with that fact. He thought they were just a new kid on the block, as he had only just discovered them, he's been missing out for a long time was my thought. He did however leave his mark at Hot Bread, bless him.

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The regular GTR Hot Bread brekky .
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The GTR brekky team
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In Nan city, a few more wats are on the hit list to check & show Jason.

Wat Hua Khuang
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The Nan Museum
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Wat Phumin
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The mini Buddhist hell at Wat Phumin
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Wat Suan Tan
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Wat Chedi
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Wat Phrathat Khao Noi
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Dinner in the evening was at the Nan Steak House, a forgettable experience, but Jason loved the pizza.
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DavidFL

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Day 3 on the road.

The Wiang Sa Bicycle Museum.
Officially closed & not accepting visitors due to covid-19 concern, however as GTR was a previous visitor we were privileged to have another wonderful inspection & guided tour. Pre-covid Jason had worked as a bicycle mechanic for Grasshopper tours, so he was fascinated by the museum & amazing collection of old bicycles.

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The passion, dedication & care taken in explaining all the bicycles by the sweet owner is highly impressive, especially when you consider entry is free, no charge. So if you intend going, please make sure you fuel up at the family Shell gas station outside the museum.


 

DavidFL

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Day 3 on the road on the road.
The highlight for Jason - riding 1081 & doing T3.
What the heck is T3 you might say. Well its the new fashion selfie highlight on R1081 for Thais. A series of 3 visible bends in the road that's been there for decades, that some of us have ridden decades ago, but now it is the IN SPOT in Nan to be.....

Riding 1169 out of Nan.
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Wat Yai Saeng Dao
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Getting excited T3 ahead on 1081 ahead
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Up into the hills & 1081
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The Love of 1081
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A double take for the camera
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And thar she is, the now famous T3 on R1081
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Scores of BKk-ers come to take photos of this amazing site. They've even built a car park beside the road to accommodate all the vehicles.
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The place to be seen / scene.
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The famous T3, a place to be scene

T3 in 2012 before its fame
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On GTR here:

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R1081 January 2004
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DavidFL

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35 kms north of the T3 glamour spot is booming Bo Klua & the ancient salt wells = a compulsory photo stop to tick another box.

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If you're not up to scratch with the ancient Bo Klua salt wells, some info to digest.

The legend of the Bo Klua Salt wells

Bo Klua Salt Wells History Once upon a time.....

The first rulers of Nan are descended from 2 brothers hatched from eggs.
The younger of the two brothers born from eggs became the ruler of Nan, & the elder brother became the ruler of Candapuri, (Vientiane.)
The elder brother Tha Nun in Vientiane, had a beautiful daughter, who was sent to Siam to marry after a royal request from the then King of Siam.
The daughter Khamlaen, was so unhappy that she often cried cooking for the King, such that her tears made the food salty. Eventually she was imprisoned by the King, but escaped & went looking for her father, but ended up lost between Nan & the Mekong. The King sought to get her back but she refused & her replies form the names of the salt wells, which were all salty from her tears.
The names of the four wells are
Bo Wa
Bo Nae
Bo Mang
Bo Phak.
And this became the legend of Mistress Salt...

(& damned of I can find the source for this info again.)


Time's running late & it is a quick blast up & over Doi Phukha.
1 compulsory photo stop at the 1715 viewpoint for father & son.
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DavidFL

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Pua it was for the night @ the Chomphu Phuka Resort, a GTR favourite in Pua.

Owner by Mien people & strong supporters & organizers for the Mien Festivals in North Thailand.



Sadly the Chomphu Phukha restaurant wasn't open on the night. All the staff were inebriated in the karaoke room - the annual staff party.
So we sauntered off on our bikes downtown, to find that 3 other GTR Pua favourites were closed on the night! We ended up at the funky Sap Jub Yuan Ubon restaurant, & excellent value it was.

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Day 4 on the road: Pua - 1148 - Phayao.
A wander round Pua to show Jason a few interesting wats & sights.

Wat Prang & the incredible Ticklish Tree was the first stop.
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The ticklish tree? Yeah that's right the one that sleeps but wakes up & jiggles when you gently caress its trunk.
Can't be true, but it is...
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Jason, a non-believer as you should be, has a caress & notes the bottom right leaves dancing round a bit.

See also



Wat Ton Laeng, another famous Tai Lue wat is next.
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but the cultural historical enthusiasm has worn off. Perhaps it's just the old man who appreciates that aspect with his increasing age?


Wat Phrathat Beng Sakat is next & more interesting perhaps because it has a view, some bells & more photo opportunities perhaps.
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A magnificent Pua view.
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Having a remote camera & tripod set up can bring you both lots of joy, playing silly boys.
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For Wat Phra That Beng Sakat info see also


Moving on from Pua...

Wat Na Wong on R101 between Pua & Tha Wang Pha
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Wat Nong Bua & one of the most famous wats in the North.
A stunning old Tai Lue wat with temple murals hundreds of years old.
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The village Tai Lue temple musicians are always there to greet you in a happy way.
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Some old murals
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The Wat Nong Bua story on GTR



Onto 1148 & time to ride for Jason. Enough culture Dad, I want to do 1148 with you now.
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Riding what he came for.
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And the views
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R1021 Huay Lan
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Phayao was our destination for the night.
Sunset by the lake is always a beauty.
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A happy Phayao dinner by the lake.
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Next morning was a visit to Tokico Motorsports to see Khun Dong & his shop.
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And that was it. A super fantastic time with Jason. It was too long coming, but worthwhile. There comes a time in the life of your kids when you both realize you are not father & son perhaps, but good mates. Thank you Jason, we both had a ripper trip man.

A trip report with a bit of a difference, but I sincerely hope those who read it, see the value & perhaps get ideas for their kids too.
Thanks too, to everyone who has stood by & helped both Jason & I through some difficult times we have both experienced the last couple of decades. It has not been all smooth sailing as some of you may know. Long may the good times continue.

Keep the power on.
 
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DKT Dave

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Sounds and looks like a great trip was had! Some fantastic roads and places packed into that short space of time. Well done!
 

steveo

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Thanks David for the informative ride reports, great info on roads to take and places to stay, also good to see father and son enjoying a ride together making memories.